steve2006

What is the standard tyre size on the rims? I have 8J rims with 235s on the front and 255s on the rears so you should be OK with 235s on 7.5j rims. Your rolling radius will change but it shouldn't affect speedometer accuracy very much. Check on the link below. http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator

That's good then, my educated guess was about right. I didn't think Lexus would make the mistake of not having a car that couldn't be driven on the left or the right without modification. Converted at the push of a button that's perfection! Thanks for coming back with the answer, it may help other members in the future or maybe remind me in 10 years time when I may be able to buy an old LS600 for a few grand.

It's took you a while to find the supercharger but looks the business, where did you get it from and if you don't mind saying how much did you pay. Also a nice purchase with the wheels, I understand they are quite a rare find. Keep us posted on the fitting project with pictures if possible.

Yes it is double sided print on the board but there is no print in the same area on the opposite side. I did the bridging and cut back of the track to isolate the damage but on testing the fault still remains as before, needles light up for a second then die. I have also noticed that the backlighting is also not coming on so it obviously has other problems. Been trying to source a replacement but no luck at present. Seperate question but if anyone has a 1997 LS400 could they confirm the front seats have side airbags fitted as mine has but I thought thiese were only present on the series IV model, it could be a JDM thing.

I think Benfur has finished with the LS breaking. I am in a similar position at the moment with 1997 spares, there are none on fleabay being broken. There was a 1992-1994 model in my local breakers and I called in the other day to discover it had gone to be crushed as "we never sold anything off it apart from that sidelight you bought" With the price of scrap metal at the moment people are cashing in without considering stripping a car 1st. There are some window regulators listed on fleabay and maybe some of the other parts you need have a look through these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?LH_ItemCondition=12&_trkparms=65%253A7%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1&rt=nc&_nkw=lexus+ls400&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

As the title suggests from April 2012 the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System has become a check item on the MOT ( amongst other things) so any warning lights indicating a system fault will result in a fail, although there was an indication that for a short period of time after the new check items were introduced to the list it may only result in an advisory. So if you do have a problem don't leave it until your MOT is due.

Will decatting make a lot of difference to performance? One thing to remember is that even if emissions are within specifications the car will now fail an MOT with no cat fitted when it should have one as OE which means refitting it for every MOT. You are already aware of the EML coming on if it is removed again another MOT fail now.

Hello and sorry for the late welcome to the LOC. Looking on Toyodiy.com this should be the part number for a post 07/2001 IS200 11301C SEAL, OIL(FOR TIMING GEAR CASE OR TIMING CHAIN CASE) 90311‑45015

I have heard that a good "drain rod" for unblocking the tubes is some of that thicker type nylon strimmer cord, its strong enough not to break but flexible enough to go around the bends. I got mine from one of the pound shops. You may also find if the car is parked facing downhill water collects in the corners of the boot seal nearest the rear screen which can overflow the channel and into the boot, some members have drilled holes in the corners and fitted drain tubes.

Just googled this, I know nothing about them nor endorse them but may be of help to other members. Also remember most local councils have public MOT facilities and you can book direct at VOSA depots. http://www.justmots.eu/

What I don't quite understand is the MOT garage "diagnosed" a faulty ABS pump, you paid for it and for them to fit it and when it didn't sort the problem they then "diagnosed" a faulty master cylinder. I wish I could earn £75.00 an hour guessing electronic faults and still get paid even if I am wrong! I would find a garage which can actually find the cause not take a stab in the dark costing you unnecessary repairs and money. If they suggest replacing the exhaust system in an attempt to sort the brakes run!

Hello and welcome to the LOC. Must admit I wasn't aware of A and B type ignition locks but the normal requirement is to have the master key which you do. From this other keys should be able to be cloned. Have you considered ringing a few local auto locksmiths to see if they can obtain and program a spare key, their advice is normally free and I would think the cost is well below what Lexus want to charge.

Yet another LS400 with apparent low mileage at a ridiculous asking price and with dinks everywhere, mines going up to 10K now! Only one not so careful owner. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1991-LEXUS-LS400-GREY-ONLY-13-400-miles-Superb-Condition-/190670113566?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2c64d30b1e#ht_500wt_1204

No but recheck all the work you carried out.

There have been problems with the serpentine belt idler pulley with a dry bearing but this is normally a squeaking noise which goes after a few minutes and is more pronounced in cold weather. What you could do is remove the belt and then start the engine and see if the noise goes, don't move the car in this state as you will have no power steering, AC or alternator drive ( the charge light will come on during this test) If the noise disappears it will be one of the moving parts along the sepentine belt ( the above 3 plus the idler or auto tensioner) If the noise remains it is coming from elsewhere so further investigation will be required. A useful tool is an automotive stethoscope with which you can probe suspect areas, being aware of moving parts of course and then listen more accurately for the source of the noise. Link below may help if you do need to remove the belt http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/maintenance/drivebelt.html

If only everyting in life was "All Inclusive" Una cerveza por favor.

As Noby76 says the MPG display does vary widely dependent on your driving style, providing the car is running OK other wise I wouldn't be concerned regarding a cambelt problem as the 2 cannot be related. As for taxing the car do you know it can be done online now using a debit card or credit card (£2.50 fee for cc)? Go onto the DVLA website link below and select "Apply for a Tax Disc Online", provide the information requested this is normally the renewal number on the reminder, your insurance and MOT are automatically checked and if all is OK you will then be asked for payment for either 6 or 12 months. The tax disc normally arrives within a few days, so much easier than making the trip to the PO. http://www.direct.go...lyD/DG_10034732

Excellent diagnosis and thank you for sharing it. The correct cable adjustment is critical as you say in ensuring a smooth gear change and at the correct time. I managed to misadjust mine after a starter motor rebuild but in my case it caused the transmission to shift up through the gears very quickly so at around 20 MPH it was hitting 4th ( overdrive) infact it was so fast you could count from 1 to 4 and feel the changes that quickly. Correct adjustment immediately sorted the problem.

Sorry I didn't respond to your earlier questions I was forced to go on holiday to the Dominican Republic for 2 weeks and the internet access was a little hit and miss especially when trying to use a nokia phone on wireless, I can hardly see the screen nevermind read a web page on it! Glad you have got it sorted out.

Congratulations on your 10 year mile stone unfortunately Mat said we have run out of the Gold Rolex watches we normally present for long service awards, will a Sekonda be OK!

Cheers for looking all that up but it does unfortunately relate to the series I and II models (90-94.) I have managed to remove the cluster and if anyone is interested I will post up the proceedure in due course. I have now done the bypass repair to the board but haven't had the chance to reassemble it and refit yet. Looking around for the parts I need to restore the car back to a reasonable condition there seems to be a lack of series III models around for spares so if the dash repair proves unsucessful I may have to consider breaking this one for spares as it would appear there could be some demand.

2 mmaste keys 1 sub & 1 valetkey Hello, You've lost me? Is that what I should have? I have 2 valet keys I think, 1 unknown key with Toyota logo on it that doesn't fit anything ( the blade is completely different and won't even go in any lock) and a smaller all metal key that may be the alarm override key. Sorted the boot remote opening thank you for the phone message.

Yes luckily there is no print in the area on the component side of the board, as for the phone cable I have a roll in the garage and as you say it is ideal for this type of repair, I will of course use the best matching colour! I have quite a bit of paperwork with the car and from this it looks like the cluster has been like this for several years as the MOTs state the mileage was not readable and the fact the board has burnt all the way through would seem to confirm it is a long term problem. I was going to cut out the affected area but it runs quite close to a fine cluster of tracks but providing it is isolated it shouldn't be a problem leaving it. Also sussed out the boot opening tonight there is another button on the alarm fob you press momentarily and presto boot opens! The two keys I received I think are both valet keys so only work in the ignition lock, that's not a problem with the remote release but I may in time get another lock with matching key from a scrapyard.

That was a nice find a 1999 model with just 36,000 miles on the clock, care to post up a picture or two? Apparently the motor fails and the only option is a replacement motor, I also seem to remember there was a TSB relating to the alignment of the steering column which may also be a factor. The same motor is used in other Toyota models but considerably cheaper than the "Lexus" branded one. Regards the sat nav it may be worth checking the condition of the disc or replace it with the latest upgrade. As for the V10 Towrag, I'll pass on the offer no offence.

One of the problems with the car is the instrument panel lights up for a second when the ignition key is turned then blanks out completely so I started work on the cheap Toyota Celsior this evening and after finally working out how the cluster came out set about on the kitchen table to see if I could diagnose the problem. After removing the white plastic cover over the main board I could immediately see a burnt area on the board, after carefully cleaning with some IPA ( no not the beer) it could be seen that the area was close to the invertor which generates the high voltages need to light up the cluster which would explain the fault present. There were no signs of liquid damage and the board is encased in the plastic cover so how this has happened I'm not sure, it could be a one off or signs of things to come with this cluster. What I intend doing is to cut away the 2 tracks that run through this area and then solder jumper leads to bypass the damage. I will take the board with me to work tomorrow and do this. Once the repair is completed I will post the results good or bad.