steve2006

OK competion is over. I have had a quick look at getting the instrument cluster out and have managed to remove the lower trim with the display brightness control on and then the 2 bottom screws holding the cluster in place. I cannot see any more screws but it is still holding tight. Has any one actually removed one from a series III? The series I and II proceedure is on lexls but I cannot find any details on the web for this model year.

Thank you, no rush plenty of other jobs to do.

It won't be me, I won the Lexus Washing Machine, it's a hybrid and uses solar cells and no water!

I know on the LS there are some wiring looms under the seat and the fuel tank is behind the upright. Also what about the rear seat belts, if you remove these also will it fail an MOT or cause problems with the SRS if used on the rears? I would guess it's feasible but I would get a professional on the job.

Tried both the black keys in the boot lock and the remote release lock but no go, there are 2 more keys on the rings one has Toyota on it and is grey but the blade looks completely different and it doesn't fit anything, the other is a smaller all metal key which I think may be the manual over ride for the alarm? I must be doing something wrong as I have seen the boot open lol

Ruud is spot on. I thought at that price I could either restore it or break it for spares, at the moment it's the former choice.

Hello and welcome to the LOC, You could try disconnecting the battery to see if the system resets to default but make sure you have any radio or alarm codes to hand should these be needed on battery reconnection.

Very true, seems a bit strange that an oil burning engine can be sorted by an ECU software update, a mechanical problem sorted electronically I don't think so. Bear in mind that once the engine ECU is reset/reprogrammed the car has to go through a relearning process for fueling and driving style so this could be the reason for the sudden miraculous MPG improvement. Give it a couple of weeks and see if the problems return. The good thing is you have the required FLSH and a paper trail for the repair should the problem return and you do need an engine rebuild.

Probably the VVTI kicking in.

If all your suspension components check out it can be caused by seizure of the brake caliper pins so remove the caliper and see if the pins slide in and out easily and smoothly. If they are tight or seized either remove,clean,regrease and refit or replace them at around £10.00 each. Oh nearly forgot,welcome to the LOC.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. To add the picture click on your username on the RHS of the screen then select "My Profile" from the drop down box. Click on "Edit my Profile" then click on "Change my Photo" Follow the on screen instructions for adding your photo.

I've just collected Celsior number two, this one is a 1997 series III Taxed and MOT'd running fine but needs a little TLC to bring it back to its former glory. Main problems are cosmetic with a dent in the rear quarter panel above the outer rear light cluster ( tree reversed into car! ),paint coming off the bumper and passenger side mirror,a damaged drivers side mirror glass and a cracked passenger side headlight unit. The previous owners dog also managed to chew the top panels on all the doors except the driver's door. Apart from a few minor paint chips on the bonnet the car is rust free and has service history from import at around 22,000 miles. It is now due its second cambelt change but I don't think my local garage will quote me £100.00 labour this time! There is also an interesting electronic fault with the dash display in that it lights up for a second when the ignition is turmed on then goes completely black, I know about the slow warm up dashes on the earlier model but this one is new to me. A bit of diagnosis and a close study of the capacitors should I hope sort the problem. The CD changer also doesn't work again a common fault. For some reason although it was opened when I went to see the car the boot won't unlock with either key plus the remote release doesn't either which I was told about so a bit of communication may be required with the previous owner. So I have a new project for the summer. :D The price I paid for it? Have a guess!

Welcome to the LOC

I agree with you on the colour. Very nice. You'd feel like an oil sheik driving that :) You need the following number plate for that MOB 1L

Hello and welcome to the LOC. There have been cases where pushing caliper pistons back without 1st loosening the bleed nipple has resulted in damage to seals in the braking system due the the reverse flow of fluid. Did you allow the master cylinder to completely empty? Have the garage tried pressure bleeding the brake system? An ABS fault would normally flag up a warning light if the self check cycle fails. It may be an idea to get a 2nd opinion from another garage.

Hello and welcome to the LOC. You certainly seem to have covered all possible causes comprehensively and the parasitic current draw is within normal parameters. From your readings the charging circuit seems to be functioning correctly as confirm by Lexus. Not sure what to suggest from here unless all the batteries are faulty which seems highly unlikely. I found this link which make intersting reading http://www.diagnosticnews.com/tech/parasitic-battery-drains/

I've seen this before a later plate on an earlier car which shouldn't happen but does. Makes it even worse that a "Motor Dealer" has no clue about model years and number plates. Looks like a UK spec model.

No problem, if you want to post in the LS forum click on forums at the top of the home page then click on the LS400/430 forum then click on "New Topic" at the top right hand side.

One of my map reading lights failed recently and my local dealer collected the car, replaced the bulb then valeted the car before filling it with petrol and returning it on a transporter. You need to find a better dealer.

You will get more responses in the LS forum but if I remember correctly they were Dunlops.

They look like series 3 GS300 wheels with a chrome finish, prices vary widely, I put a brand new wheel of the same type on ebay with an as new tyre and it fetched just £21.00! Just remember you need to be a Gold member on the LOC to sell items.

The gap is relative to the type of wheels fitted,tyre size etc, the most common cause of height problems are the height sensors which allow water into them and need replacing. If your headlight alignment is correct and the car is generally level I wouldn't unduly worry. Are you running on air suspension or conventional springs and dampers?

Certainly easy to spot in an airport carpark, it's like the brightly coloured luggage you see on collection belts these days.

You may get more responses if you post in the LS forum but have you tried swapping the tyres around from front to back? There have been previous cases where the tyre has caused the problem.

Everybody overtakes me in the LS, with just 72,000 miles on it from new I still have the "Running In Please Pass" sticker in the rear window!