Tinonline

Omg you are right...the colour...

Yes Titch the extension def needed. As always with you 100% on rest.

Yes it's torqued on. I used a Hex socket on my LS400 with a medium sized torque wrench for the efficient leverage - It's a cleaner undo than using a ratchet. I suspect an allen key is not enough for the job - in fact I'll re-phrase that = probably impossible.

Alas you are buying from a distie...a distributor who won't carry the stock but has to order it from the main supplier and maybe the manufacturer. Can take ages and they have your money. Only way is to check stock when buying.

Gold...apologies to those who have a gold Lexus as condition over-rules colour...but this is not a premium price colour. By the way, £7k seems to be the magic trade price for a non-classic, low mileage motor of any marque that has good history...the break out price or bounce back price from a very low guide/market price. Has been for years.

Really pleased that you walked away. We know that this is widespread and infects everything from banking, politics to whatever. Cowboys, theives, shysters it was ever thus. Buyer beware is a sad indictment. Complain to the website: protect us all.

I'm no expert...but boy am I a consumer. I want and expect a tyre that will take me across temperature ranges. I'm not in Siberia or deep cold Canada or US. In the UK I don't want the choice. Give me a tyre for all seasons. As we have had since tyres began.

Definately fill from the hex plug. Use a small funnel, grab a stool or chair and be prepared to trickle it in. After about 20 years you will notice the overflow bottle filling up. I got mine up over half full (18 years) before coming to the conclusion that the fill would never stop at the hex plug end so as deftly as possible with the level as high as poss at the hex plus screwed it back up. I torqued correctly. Then I topped up a bit at the tank. Then ran the engine up. I squeezed all the big pipes a number of times not that that did much. But it felt nice all the same. I can't recall the level dropping but if it does it's very little. You will be delighted with the results. Check it regularly when stone cold - you might need to add a tad but after that it will be stable. There are plenty of good quality anti-freezes available that are absolutely fine for the engine. If you can still get red then red is good but the latest long lifers are pink OAT antifreezes. I wouldn't go for the other colours - they have a shorter life span. Lexus use pink in all new cars.

Thanks for the advice, the needle on the temp gauge is pretty much about half way i.e. normal. So you think change the temperature sensor, is that an easy job, whereabouts is that? OK i well leave flushing for now - the main reason I suggested that is that I researched that air in the system can cause the fan not to blow hot and flushing and refilling can correct this. So the cooling is working fine. I doubt you would have air locks. But if the coolant is old it is worth doing. I'm not sure where the senors are but someone will know! There will be one outside measuring climactic temp and one for the cabin. Now if the external sensor has gone that upsets the heating. Never heard of the internal one going - that should be in the dash area with a little plastic grill cover I think. Temp adjustments can take a while...especially if you are fiddling! Overcooling is when it takes ages to warm up and the needle stays around the first mark, seldom getting to near middle or middle, that is usually a faulty thermostat. Please give us all the gory detail and the results! Good luck!

I would check the temp gauge and how that behaves...is engine over cooled or is needle about half way or thereabouts? May be as electrical ie sensor fault. However your proposed work won't cost a fortune. Better to do yourself. I wouldn't flush just yet. Maybe temp sensor first. If engine is over cooled then thermostat first.

True although the long term fix is just fit a new unit. I love my LS 400...

I disconnected also. I suppose it's lasted quite a few years. I do wish more ancillaries lasted a life time. It's as though you have to service or replace everything.

Yep I tried this varnish et al but it didn't work. I cut a champagne cork down as a float collar but as thin as I could get it still failed to fit! Going to buy a new one...

MOT - always gets well jiggled!

As usual great replies and thanks once again my friends. Age is a killer on bushes even with modest mileage, It seem's worth replacing anti-roll bar bushes anyway as a matter of improvement...OK so if that does not fix it then I still have a significant improvement I'm sure. Yes to Rock Auto...I'm not going to replace everything though. I am wondering about the UCA but I was told they were OK...then again maybe they are OK but not great...

Hi I can find plenty of posts and guides on early LS400 roll bar bush changes but nought on the later cars...except that it is harder? I've a clunck over speed bumps and on hitting the brakes from the front end. Given that the MOT did not even advise on any wear anywhere, I think these may be likely culprits. Car has 73k on clock. Any advice?

To be clear: I am not offering my car for sale and will not accept any offers. (For the attentiont of the website admin.).

Good to hear. I have a slight shimmy and looking at the discs there is little visible wear. With an auto you are going to be on the brake at traffic lights... I'm going to check my front wheel alignment first.

Depends upon the mileage and type of mileage I do really. It is an awesome car no doubt about that.

It was an offer from Rock Auto in the US. Gates Parts. Actually I should have added about £45 quid to that for the drive belt pulley tensioner. Quite a few bits were worn. Labour was nil as I did the job myself. You can check out my roller coaster ride on earlier posts/threads. I spent another £60 on tools but given I've wider benefits from that £'s spent I've not included that in the overall costs.

Hi I'm enjoying reading posts. Post cam belt and everything changed I'm enjoying my LS400. Started first time on my return from hols. Including the car, I've spent roughly £1,185 and it looks like this: £750 car £ 88 battery £245 cambelt/waterpump/tensioners x2/pulley £ 15 antifreeze (offer) £ 2 deionised water (crazy Halfords offer!) £ 39 bonnet struts £ 12 thermostat £ 20 drive belt £ 6 bulbs £ 5 clip Wheels are rough as hell so I'm paused on those. I reckon there is a grands worth of work on pulling a few dents and respraying both bumpers. Mileage is at 72k. (Other jobs: washer float, maybe discs and pads as there is a slight breaking shimmy, check front alignment - tyres look ok but steering wheel is not 100% straight. Gearbox and diff oil change). Worth fixing or sticking on the wheels and body front? If all goes well over the next year I will sell. Please remember only Gold Members can sell on the LOC

Sounds OK to me. But you might want to swop the sensor as a peace of mind action: it's done a few miles and years. As long as you can get to it without having to faff about - should be a quick whip it out and pop the new in as quick as to avoid draining the coolant or having to overly worry about getting air out of the system. Also...might be 20 degrees plus outside but your engine is cold compared to its normal operating temperature.

Looks like a jacking point insert...but it's too clean... or it has a fluted end...underseat heating pipe end clip/fitting? Seat runner end cap?

What a great story! Great car better nick than my year 2000 !

The only thing is you start out at the belt change... ...but then either find there is more...or you really should replace stuff. I've done mine at 72k and whilst the water pump looked ok, it just has to be done whilst you're in there. Would it do another xk miles or x years, maybe/maybe not. My drive belt tensioner had wear, idler pulley very tired and given the components are consumables I opted to replace the cambelt tensioners. That's a few £ at Lexus and would up the bill.