Tinonline

Ah, no tranny tank just the dipstick, best see owners manual or have a google...should be able to check hot or cold and when you look at fluid colour pulling the stick you'll see if that's amiss. You want a nice red clean colour no black or emulsion cream deposits or water droplets. You fill via the dipstick hole if it's like a 400. Need tiny funnel.

Oh dear not sure I can help with this one. Check all fluid levels. Especially gearbox. Could be load related and might be steering pump? Can you hear it in the engine bay (careful leaning over engine - no loose clothing etc.) or it sounds like the tranny deep in the cogs type of noise?

Hi fellow comrades Erring on the grumpy sometimes, it's an age thing probs, Black Friday means lots of bad things not least once again copying a society lagging behind Europe by about 300 years. It also means not being able to get to eat out unless you've booked. Having said all that, I've managed my cheapest oil change for my LS400. Thanks to heavy discounting, prices weighed in at: £21.98 including delivery to my door for 6ltrs of Shell Helix and £11.99 for a genuine oil filter and washer. Total £33.97. I stocked up on 10ltrs of ready mixed red long-life coolant at a Total of £12.14 but that's for the S Type Jag that now has a shopping list of repairs I have to attend to. (Coolant leak - thermostat tower I believe so a metal beefed up version will be £45 plus a thermostat - suppose I have to do that too; non-functioning washers - leaking pipe I think as motors doing their best; cam cover oil leak; non telescoping steering wheel. I think the voltage drain is fixed by a good quality battery - auto elec told me to steer clear of Lion Brand. Drive shaft boot shot. Air con pipe been gone for years and the part alone is £300 and no way am I attempting that repair. Oh and gearbox needs a service plus a couple of solenoids). The LS400? Oil change, still got 2ltrs of tranny fluid for a mini refresh and oil for the diff. Yes lower suspension arms need attention. Lexus is just ahead on mileage at 79k over the Jag's 70k. I've a pair of front Blue Print roll bar bushes (made in Japan I note) to fit as a precautionary/service measure. Will be busy righting all these wrongs...

There must be an indie about but I'd use my Jaguar indie who works on all manner of classics. Fenn Motor Works in Reading. ive done most stuff myself so far.

Hi annoying as it could me a range of serviceable part issues from 02 sensor to your elbow. Might be a coil on plug issue they play up when warm and usually under gentle use 30-50 mph. They'll misfire on tickover. On some cars they won't throw codes. Doubt it though. if you have a local indie you'll save hours fretting/testing...check for codes. Might be a sensor out of range. I'd see if it returns though.

Take a look at the article I posted courtesy of Car Mechanics. Its getting harder to assess quality is spares wherever they come from.

Hi I read this article in a recent edition of Car Mechanics and found it very interesting. So interesting and relevant that I asked if I could have a copy to share with the forum. Thanks to Car Mechanics, here it is, with their kind permission. Also here is a link to their website: http://www.carmechanicsmag.co.uk/ (I have no association with Car Mechanics or publishing house etc.) Enjoy. Spare Parts.compressed.pdf

Well when all things considered if the wheels are that good they should be recovered £s will be involved whatever you do...and time. If you feel the urge at a later date I'm sure it would be easier and same money to source. If it was cheap and easy...good opportunity.

It wheely depends. Maybe a call to your insurer to sound out keeping the originals? Or replace them with another set which may just about do? The fitted replacements look nice. When your Lex is worth the same as a Ferrari in collectors' monthly you might kick yourself for the non originality! 😉

Yep to me sounds like a bearing in a pulley or w/pump complaining. Recommend immediate and thorough investigation.

How goes it Chris? Any news?

Always tough and I stopped fitting stuff here as pads are sqeals rich even though they are from a good name...they make different quality and specs for different distributors. Original Pads are ceramic. I do like Bembo as they are the dogs...but only from a reputable dealer...don't want seconds or knock offs. Buy from the US for non brand but don't buy the cheapest. i had squealing pads on a Renault, Porsche and avoided it on my Merc as my garage (indie) said they'd given up fitting brand x from a well known distie and bought brand x (same) from Merc same box but they didn't squeak and stopped peed off owners returning with complaints. My experience too. May have changed but... Despite being a keen buyer, we can mistake the bargain for the piece of garbage it is. Given the life of Lexus genuine pads I reckon £80 is ok. With discs it is an "ouch" but they do last. It does depend and some non OE is better than OE. I fitted non OE cambelt and pulleys, water pump only to find the pulleys were same manufacturer (same quality? No idea). Next belt change I'll replace everything again anyway. Pays the money and takes the choice.

That would take load off, as the tensioner pulley could not move to apply full tensioner pressure...from the drop down tensioner. The long tensioner unit can't really be over torqued to such a state. But I think a thorough check on all areas needs to be done and all auxially belt areas. Can you get it back to your garage? I wouldn't expect to hear a cambelt making any sound at all.

There is no adjustment other than auto tension via the pulley via the tensioner unit. You are correct the cam wheels are fixed. I would have thought a component or pulley bearing might be guilty and this is very close to the cambelt. Belt and water pump aside still leaves a few pulleys. After 70k miles mine had play but would have lasted quite a bit longer. But I replaced them any way including tensioner and tensioner pulley. For piece of mind a view of the cambelt might be useful but will require some dismantling...but part of checking other components. Any chance of recording the noise and posting?

I'm attempting to get an article to post from Car Mechanics October edition on replacement parts quality. It covers numerous parts, the law, implications and grey areas...some quality oil blenders for example could but don't bother to apply for some compliance standards because of the cost...yet their product is excellent. If we fit substandard parts...we are liable. Worth buying as a reference document. Fascinating reading and yes, Brexit has an impact too.

Every time I shut a door or boot I frantically check for my keys if not in my hand. Self locking is a great idea...but...

You'll need to remove the trim and airduct (easy) from top of rad area. Suitable spanner or socket for tugging on tensioner to enable belt fit. Definitely a roadside repair I found it fiddly as it is best done with two pairs of hands! Quality belt under £20 Check to see if any of the belt driven components has not failed/seized causing the belt damage or slip....these belts are very tough unless extremely old. Ensure no fluid leaks causing major belt slip. Maybe it's time for a new auxiliary belt tensioner when you have time?

No idea. Talking to yourself button when passenger is not listening. May be it silences the passenger. Microphone?

Ah interesting. Lexus dealers are franchises in effect or distributors so as long as they follow key guidelines they will source as preferred. Castrol is, from my experience, excellent.

Yep I use Opie oils for engine oil. Shell Helix which is what UK Lexus use. diff oil any solid brand to spec but I confess Lexus gearbox oil which is not outrageously expensive.

What! (Spills tea and cup & saucer fall to the shagpile). You mean you have not bought the OE oil from Lexus? That unctuous, gossamer liquid strained through the under garments of a 1000 vestal virgins? Half the forum won't speak to you now. Wonder who makes Asdas stuff...

Great. Glad you are running again.

Yes it is immobilised. What you do is the ignition switch must be left in the 'on' position for 6 minutes and then turned off before attempting to start. Same procedure in a flat battery or battery disconnection. thats the info from my manual...

Hi From my research this is a resetting issue: The codes it found were:C1203- ECM Communication CircuitMalfunctionC1345 - Linear Solenoid Valve OffsetLearning UndoneYou need to Initialize and Calibrate the Linear Solenoid Valve.You have to use the scan tool to do this. Normally you set the parking brake, Initialize and wait until the VCS and ABS lights stop blinking after about 2 minutes. I can't find anymore detail and specific steps for your motor might be different but it is a reset exercise and it might need a full on scanner. I'm sure more specific advice will be forthcoming but hope this reassures/helps.

The battery can be internally so bad it can't be charged enough to start. Worth getting it checked before placing fingers in wallet.