Mybikesacx500

I recal having that problem initially, It was caused by the fact the lights take a high start up current, althought their running current is quite low. I had to solder the new wires directly into the loom, behind the plug, any sort of resistance in the old headlamp plug, and they were reluctant to fire up

Have you checked all the fuses? do you have a multimeter, you can check the fuses with this and check the voltage across the battery. Sounds like you need an auto electrician to take a look at it. The big wire carries the charging current from the alternator to the battery, a thinner wire will be the "sense" wire which has the battery voltage on it

There's a cable from the throttle to the auto box that tells the box where the throttle is at. I've heard that this being set wrong affects gerchanges

Perhaps get the diagnostic codes, you use a paperclip in the diagnostic plug and count light flashes on the dash, you will find threads detailing the procedure

I would go through hese things one at a time, are they "not as good as new but liveable with" or are they potentialy dangerous? The brake pipe need done, probably, but even that, is a a bit of surfase rust, or deeply coroded?

You will need to swop the red and black wires, as Lexus do their own thing - they have 12 volts on all three headlamp connectors, then switch to a negative when the lights are turned on. Unless the kit is specifically for a Lexus, and wired for it- mine wasn't. Check out the photos earlier in this thread hi mate thank you for your reply the handy thing is is the two wires are seprate and not in a plug so ill look at the pic that was post earlyer in this thread hope these will match my led side lights regards neil i fitted my hid kit today but the headlights will not come back on arfter using main beam as i mentioned in my last post mine is a two wire kit thanks in advance neil I've covered this problem before in a previous reply. Read the full thread and both pages of it. I think the HID's need a second or two to reset and re-ignite, are they failing to come on after a quick HI-beam flash?

You will need to swop the red and black wires, as Lexus do their own thing - they have 12 volts on all three headlamp connectors, then switch to a negative when the lights are turned on. Unless the kit is specifically for a Lexus, and wired for it- mine wasn't. Check out the photos earlier in this thread

If its not the in/out switch on the column as has been sugested, it could be the switch that detects the ignition key being inserted. Does the 2- position memory function (buttons on the door) work?

Could be related to the phone mute circuit, on my LS400 a common problem is apparently the connector under the back seat. Wiggling it fixed my problem. It will probably be different on a 430, but its a clue....

My tuppenseworth says it sounds awfully like an airlock. If it happened just after the really cold weather started, perhaps a pipe froze? your antifreeze is up to scratch?

I had exactly the same problem with a brake light! But the quality of the 17 year old rust-free rear light cluster assembly, the ease with which the bulb holder came off, just knowing I was working on something that wasn't built to a price to just last the warranty, made the whole experience worthwhile. Quite looking forward to the next bulb going (How many other car forums are reduced to silly posts about bulbs, as opposed to major problems?)

you sure its the same oil and not cheapo dregs from the nearest chip shop? well, they SAID it was the same oil, Mobil1, got a receit and everything (£39) Engine definately running quieter

I had my oil and filter changed at Kwikfit (yes, I know) but they charged less than the cost of the oil from Halfords (same oil)

Your local hole in the wall car shop, or Halfords, will have exhaust assembly paste, like runny GunGum. OR- its too cold, take it to Kwik fit, this much-maligned company changed my engine oil for less than I could buy the oil for. My car developed a faulty ignition coil just after I got it, dented my confidence in the car somewhat, but it has been completely reliable since

I wondered if anything legal came into it. Where we live is about a quarter of a mile from the beach, but its also about 500 yards from farm land. Going anywhere inland can involve going down country roads that are not lit at night, so I do use main beam,. My MOT guy was fine with the dipped being HID and the mains being original. he was only interested in the beam pattern, which was fine. I'm hardly ever on country roads at night, but even then. I think the dipped HID are almost better than main halogen, especially if you use that load adjuster to turn then up a bit....

Good question, 99.5 % of my driving is in town, on dipped beams. even on a motorway, how often do you get the chance to use full beam? If I used full beam, I would certainly think about fitting another set

They go in counter- intuitively, you would think they were upside down, but that's the way it works...

Yep, had my HID lights for a few months now, and its definately a mod worth doing, quite apart from making the car look cool, they are better lights to be driving with

No one else has answered, so here's my opinion, for what its worth. The bulbs are basically an air gap between 2 electrodes, with a particular gas inbetween. I don't think a different bulb would damage a ballast unit. I assume these things are built for a harsh electrical environment and are designed to deal with blown bulbs, even reversed connections (I discovered the cheap ones I bought from ebay took all sorts of abuse while I installed them) You will want bulbs of the correct temperature /colour to suit you, I would stick to the yellow / white end of the spectrum, leave the blue and purple to the boy racers. There are all sorts of hybrid dip/ main bulbs, so make sure you are getting like for like

Well I'm glad we sorted that out, but what about a group noun? A phalanx of Lexus? A cruise of Lexus?

Iv'e got some weight in the back, 2 LPG tanks, so the grip moving in a straight line (on ice) is not to bad. A few very gentle experimental drifts on corners revealed it breaks away quite gently but you then have a fairly substantial amount of car going a bit sideways. All quite predictable, but I like rear wheel drives in slippy conditions Also the ABS is working fine, never had it cut in until today. I normaly drive manuals, this is my first time in an automatic on ice, much easier!

The Australian sun also gives dashboards a hard time, but England? global warming????

"Wheels - All in £250 (That's with 20% off as a special offer they have at the moment) "

Curious as to why you need one..... I quite fancy different back boxes for a bit of an exhaust note myself, but never heard of anyone needing a new exhaust

I'd had mine for 2 weeks and it stalled at the lights, then had no power and I limped home like a tractor, arriving with smoke pouring out from under the bonnet and a horrible hot oil smell. I was gutted, reconned it was a wreck Turned out it was a faulty HT coil, so no spark, so raw fuel into the cats caused them to overheat (as in glowing red hot) and burning oil off the underside of the car. A replacement second hand coil from a nice chap who posts on here, and normal service was resumed. Faultless since. Don't give up yet