TheDon

once you get your camera if you fancy a little trip somewhere i dont mind fast tracking a bit of learning for you if you want.. will save a lot of bugger ups. Memory.. you definately get what you pay for as its very easy to get corruption of the files.. especialy during rapid write times. average 10mb for a Jpeg & Raw.. for example with my 16gb card i can get 890 photos which is about the life of the battery also. If its just Jpeg your looking at about 2000 or so photos, personaly i love to shoot in raw mode as you can ensure that you get the photo you want! Get on amazon and buy yourself the D90 Digital Field guide... best £10 you will ever spend.. trust me!

well i hope i can be of a little help here.. Firstly a D90 is an awsome camera.. it came out a month after i picked up my D80 body and 18-105 lens!! no fair! But i will say that if you have never messed with a DSLR it will be a little too much and unless you work very hard learning and reading 90% of the cameras ability will remain a mystery and waste. Now if your just getting into it something like a D40x (10mp) is a definate good option.. a D50 if you can get one is a good medium starter as well. I moved up from a D50 to a D80 in about 12 months and over 8000+ photos on the D50.. and tbh if i had gone for the D80 to start i would have struggled with the options and lacked the ability to change the settings enough. after 12 months of reading and learning i still had loads to learn when i got the D80.. in june i will be going to the D300 as im a lot more competant at setting and metering my own photos sucessfully. As for SD memory cards the best option is SDHC.. i just picked up a sandisk Ultra 3 16gb class 4 memory card for £35.. the class's are as follows: Class 2 = 2mbs write time Class 4 = 4mbs Class 6 = 6mbs Currently SDHC ranges from 4gb to 32gb.. You will need a fast write time when you are shooting in JPEG and Raw.. and especialy when shooting in rapid succession.. i.e. a burst of 30+ photos it can take 20+ seconds before taking another batch of photos with a slow card.. but only a few seconds with a fast card.. www.7dayshop.com is your best friend for batteries, chargers, filters, pods, batteries etc.. bit like a play.com for photographers (VAT free in jersey) dont get too caught up with lenses... I have about 4 -5 lenses... as initialy i felt the need to have lots as its what the pros do.. isnt it? cost me loads... but 90% of my shooting is done with a 18-135 lens... which has enabled me to actualy take better photos as im taking photos not changing.. stopping, remetering.. adapting etc etc.. I shoot a lot lighter these days.. on average i take one lens, a body and a battery and a 16gb card.. before it was 5 lenses, two bodies, 6 batteries, chargers, cards... cleaners etc etc etc.. the D40x seems to be your most cost effective option at the moment.. and will give you amazing quality.. and will allow you to enjoy learning.

http://www.ultimategarage.com/homegarage/UltGar2y.htm

its moved now... will refind the link on the site.. its progressed even further!

think i will wait to be dissapointed on DVD for this one.. First was brilliant... second again was a bit too far fetched. Surprised they havent made CRANK.. the prequal..

Sorry.. what i meant to say is that there is "also" DOT5.1 as an option to the DOT 3 & 4.. Not too many people seem to know about it for some reason? I will be using it on my GS when i get round to bleeding the brakes fully in spring (hopefully with new hoses s/s)

Where can i get hold of a new pioneer screen for my stock head unit.. am thinking about returning it to standard for a while and regaining a few features untill i decide fully what im doing with my audio setup. The reason i started changing over was that the screen was starting to loose a few sections of lcd... I have seen that the part is availiable via pioneer but only if you have a US account with them.. Anyone had any luck over here? Think the part is about $60

well im definately switching back to a 5w 30 oil fully synthetic as the 10w 40 semi synthetic makes the car feel very slugginh on these cold morings

nope... i only use mac tools products... the ET50 wouldnt read it.. then the next generation (cant remember name) can protocol reader still could not read it.. just says it wont interface with the vehicle.. detects only so far.. but the ECU will not let itself be read

do you mean www.ultimategarage.com ? looks like he turned it into a full time business.... serious dream garages that he is building now...

ahhh.. but now you have DOT 5.1 brake fluid that is mixable and completely compatable with 3&4.. I have changed my bikes to DOT 5.1 as it gives a lot better feel to the brakes... not sure if it would be any better for the cars? its a lot better than dot 3 or 4 for heat & moisture absorbing properties http://www.motul-oil.co.uk/motul%20data%20...8070%20(GB).pdf

i so wished i had not clicked that link.... so so funny... the mr universe one is great!

happy birthday to the both of you

such a shame... really shows how far the crunch is going... Keeping my fingers crossed for Jensen.. What are the chances McLaren may pick him up? or is he past his prime now?

http://www.kartcom.com/en/news?page=1 Scroll down a bit till you see a video.. very very funny

best option is to find a friendly autoparts store (trade type) and ask for V belt dressing... or belt anti slip spray.. what you do is get someone to start the engine while you have the can ready... as it starts to squeal you spray it onto the contact side of the belt and if its just the belt then the problem should go away. I had brand new belts fitted in april and on the coldest of days i can hear a light squeak for a little while.. Belt dressing re softens the hardened belt material and makes it grip again... i always used to use it on my supercharger belt and it worked a treat.. should cost £4-6 a can. Best option i think at the moment.. and one can should last you a few years and a few cars!

almost everything on the IS is about M6.. best range of ones to have are M6 x 12 and M6 x 20... with a handfull of each you can change damn near anything! Im gonna be doing a stainless heat sheild for my GS... always wanted to make one for my IS but i then got the charger.. Keep up the good work tho!

tony has done an awsome job.. i had a customer in a similar way.. He brought a car in for an install.. i gave the quote he was happy.. Dropped the car off for a week to get the install made etc... Day one was supposed to be stripdown, run wiring.. get full dimensions and start building.. Was shocked to find botched job after botch job in the areas i was due to work, called him and said i would get it sorted as as people had blatently been ripping him off in the past.. Spend 2 full days rectifying the problems and damage other people had caused..got on with the build.. documented everything.. cleaned up the second hand Genisis & jl audio equipment that he brought in for me to fit (was in a bad state & he had paid more second hand than if new) the deadline was for a show, called him two days before to say that although i could get the install finished he would have to bring it back for final wiring etc to which he agreed.. i would have had it done were it not for the rectification works which i undertook (at no extra cost) He took the car away really happy... then against my phonecall he took it to a local audio shop (the ones who supplied him the s/h audio) who convinced him that the boxes would explode as i had not put a piece of MDF between the double inverted sub box (even though the design had been aproved by the JL audio engineers.....).. so they RIPPED and i do mean ripped it all out...and this box was excessively well fabricated and sealed... smashed a piece of MDF into the box.. charged him £100 for the privilage! then proceeded to connect the wires.. again the wiring was 90% complete but i had not terminated to amps and batteries... but had ensured that all earths etc were perfect with multimeters... i had run everything in 0 gauge wire too..so it was more than capable of running 3 genisis amps.. they then charged him £180 as i had not earthed at all... so to demonstrate this lack of earth they showed him how the sterio didnt sound perfect (they adjusted all the levels wrong) but where he was dim he didnt realise that if there was no earth then the amps wouldnt have worked at all..... so they "earthed it" and returned the levels to normal... in the meantime they damaged everthing.. the metal work, the install.. carpeting/trimming etc.. He believed their word for gospel even though physics would prove otherwise... so in haste i agreed to do some extra work for free to make him happy.. fearing bad press at the hands of this bad audio retailer. made not a single bit of proffit on the job in the end.. and he still sat there bad mouthing my company quoting the physicaly impossible scenarios that this audio company had told him with which to extract further ££££ I lost about £10k worth of pre booked jobs also due to it... from then on i always kept online photo logs of all jobs.. so people could see what i did publicly and never had anything after that.. lesson learnt.. dont help retards! The problem when you are dealing with idiots is they dont understand reason (or apparently physics).. they have mouths the size of dustbins... And tony has done the right thing in a way.. its a shame it has cost him.. but it was a damage limitation exercise.. and so far so good. sorry for the ramble

Build it with a flat roof then... some astroturf and a swing set and your sorted!

i thought the 5-50's were for high high performance turbo cars ... i thought the 50 bit was the temperature range and the thickness... i.e. a 5-30 oil would reach optimum working temperatures quicker at lower temps where as a 5-50 oil would remain thicker for longer untill it had reached the higher temp.. I know that some of the guys running silly power skylines were using 5-50 oil as they were killing the normal stuff too quick.. So is it possible that using such a heavy use oil at these current low temps might actualy do more harm than good? I have already noticed that my car does not feel the same after doing a change from 5-30 oil to a 10-40 oil..

The disclaimer must not seem too "forward" as in the end what it should say are things like "consent for repair works to undertake without notification" then specify a limit... Other things like a mid stage "further remedial works consent" with a brief explanation of items that will take place and concequences... then a signiture from the party. Dont have one that says... we wont accept any liability for anything that happens.. etc as it will scare more off than solve problems.. In the end have a little camera always at hand and photo the job quickly before undertaking the work... little things but small insurance policies non the less

looking amazing so far.... cant wait to see her all finished!! Seriously jelous.... :)

was more thinking of using the mop with an abrasive polish... something like doing a G6 head and G6 compund to cut back and fine finsih with the clay.. But for now i definately think i will just clay then polish and seal.. Moving stuff into my workshop made me realise how much detailing stuff i actualy have!

I personaly will be writing to the pope asking for Tony to be Sainted! Amazing customer service... even though he was a nightmare of a customer. I personaly would impliment a small disclaimer for any works of that type... And get some decent CCTV internaly with Voice recording... could save you a fortune! I shall now refer to you as Saint Tony of WIM if you dont mind

Same here then go over them with a rubber blade :winky: I do the same, but when its really thick i bought a 5 litre container of Autosmart De-icer concentrate.. although i use it neat rather than diluting. I use it with a pump spray bottle rather than a freezing cold aerosol. Clears even the thickest of ice in but a few mins