sprinter2012

lol, didn't mean to crush your dreams but I think the cost and work required to custom design an entire bodykit are being underestimated just a bit.

If you actually want a proper functioning rear diffuser you are probably going to end up being charged more than the value of your car to produce it... It will require huge amounts of computer design, then prototyping. It will also have to be tested in a wind tunnel to check that the diffuser is actually working properly and not reducing downforce due to incorrect angles/airflow. You really shouldn't be announcing that you drive at 120mph on the road in the rain. 120mph is a dangerous speed in any conditions, but it would only take a few metres of surface water at that speed and you could kill yourself and others. What you just said there should have been labelled "opinion:" Everything Mikey said is perfectly valid, as it would be much easier and cheaper to modify existing parts than to create a whole new design at this stage in the cars lifetime. However that is his opinion, just like your opinion is that you should stop the IS200 looking old, by making it look like a Porsche (which hasn't really changed much in about 25 years) There are many different bumpers, skirts, lips etc. available for the IS200, and I've hardly seen any of them in real life.

Not sure about anyone else but I've never actually seen a IS200/IS300 or Altezza with either of the bumpers Mikey posted up.I really like the one on the white car, and if that is a chargespeed bumper without a lip I'll probbaly be getting myself one of them soon because I've always wondered what that was! I would say you guys are going to be looking at a couple of grand each per kit taking into account the design time, prototyping and then final production and material costs of an entire bodykit from scratch.

My car is a sport, and I'll be fitting coilovers soon. So I'll have the springs and shocks available soon.

I'd say rest the ECU first and see if that helps. Just take the negative terminal off the battery for about 30 seconds and put it back on, that will reset it. Then give the car a few journeys to re-learn all the settings and see if the idle comes back down.

Everything I made my induction kit from was bought from eBay. The Apexi filter is the only hard bit to find, as a lot of them are either in Japan, and UK stock can be expensive sometimes (up to £70, I paid £25 for mine) so just keep an eye out. The cables are all still OEM underneath, but I've put some blue 'split conduit' on them. It's just slides on over the top and gives the look without re-wiring your whole engine bay! :) And again, the catch can was bought from eBay too.

Almost...:) I've done all the bits I can do, I'm just waiting to get it sprayed at the moment. After I finished smoothing the resin and put another couple of coats on it now looks like this...

I take it you mean the crank case breather? That's just a vent, not a vacuum line. Mine runs into a catch can, but you can just put a small filter on instead which is cheaper and easier. But it won't make any difference to how the engine runs.

What's wrong with the rims you have now? I'd be surprised if they are all unusable!? Corrosion is a common problem, but nothing a good refurb can't sort out.

I did wonder why he linked to a specific product for adjusting the mileage, I think we've been had. lol Probably just a guy trying to advertise a tool that will illegally adjust mileage without directly saying it.

I'm assuming he means he has a 2006 IS series, in which case it will probably be an IS250 or IS220. But as mentioned above, you can check the milage from the MOT history online.

Yes there is a time limit AND a mileage limit. However I very much doubt any Lexus dealer would have told him it was 90K. The cam belt change on an IS200 is supposed to be every 6 years or 60K. It used to be longer but a couple broke early so they shortened the interval.

As above, the factory Lexus setting cause them to eat front tyres. Tony Bones at Wheels in Motion developed some new geometry settings that not only fix the tyre wear, but improve the handling and steering feel of the car too. Spent loads on the car, but the WIM geometry is the one mod I couldn't live without!

Having been through similar issues with sellers claiming there is nothing wrong with a product, or telling me it's my fault because it hasn't happened before, I looked up the Sale of Goods Act. In which there is a section on 'The Burden of Proof' To cut a long story short, it states that it is not the customers responsibility to prove that there is an issue/defect, but rather that it is down to the seller/retailer to prove that there is not.

They came with Bridgestone Potenza RE040 215/45/ZR17 I think. ZR being the important part, Lexus contracted the Japanese branch of Bridgestone to make a special version of the tyre with a higher load rating (ZR) to take the weight of the Lexus under heavy cornering. And as far as I know they stopped making them years ago, you can still get the normal R17 version, but not the ZR17 anymore. I know this because I was confused about why my spare tyre was a ZR17 and the rest were R17, and after a bit of digging on google I found the above info.

Yep definitely a blown bulb, it's 3 screws to take off the dash surround, then another 3 to take the speedo itself out. Then the bulbs just twist out and you stick in a new one. Takes about 10 minutes, very easy to do. You will need a T10 bulb for that location.

It should just be a straight swap, unbolt old seats, bolt in new seats. Swap the plugs over (assuming your current seats are heated too?) Job done :) I'll take the rear bench part if it's going free?

If the heated seats are draining the battery while the engine is running then you should definitely get your alternator and/or battery checked as that is not normal. I can have both heated seats, heated windscreen, sat nav on charge, ipod charging all at once and the volt needle barely moves.

I always turn off the traction control, but it's normally the LSD that comes in first. Typical situation... Pulling out of a tight turn with a decent amount of acceleration means the LSD causes the inside wheel to lose traction slightly Which in turn kicks in the TRC and cuts the power for a few seconds And in my experience, if you are pulling out into a slightly smaller gap than you should be, TRC taking all the power can be dangerous as you can end up with the other car up your ***** because you didnt pull away as fast as expected.

I get this sometimes, I did make a thread on it ages ago and a fair few people have the same problem. It seems to turn over, almost start, then carry on turning over. But it always starts second try. It never happens in winter though, only in summer. It seems to happen when the temperature increases while the car is switched off i.e. left out in the sun all day. My guess is it's either something sticking, or a faulty sensor. But I can't be bothered to spend ages working out exactly what it is as it's not really a huge problem.

Posted in wrong thread.

Just turn the connectors over and they will work. For some reason Lexus wire positive and negative backwards.

Not quite as simple as an OEM to OEM swap unfortunately. It won't be cheap/easy, but if you already have an engine and gearbox it won't be too much of a mission, usually sourcing the gearbox is the hard part I think. Are you taking the engine from that Supra to put in it? Or are you gunna be greedy and have the Lexus and the Supra? lol

It's got threaded inserts so you can refit the existing sensors.

Yep, the mounts are all exactly the same.