johnatg

Unless you or your regular passengers suffer from hay fever, you might as well get this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS-250-Saloon-Comline-Cabin-Pollen-Filter-Genuine-OEM-Quality-LOW-COST-XE4-/361095802349?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5412fcaded Pollen filters are more or less optional anyway. If you removed the filter easily, you were in recycle mode. If you had to force the little door you have almost certainly broken some links - there is a thread on here about someone's d-i-y fix, (which involved a lot of effort) and also one (was it on the US Lex forum?) from a US garage proprietor who had to shell out about $2000 for repairs (he also posted a video of how to do it properly) Don't mess without a workshop manual - a google search will turn up CD ones (you only ever get CDs of manuals these days - hard copy ones have largely disappeared)

The one marked in red is one of the slide pins. The other one goes into a blind hole. You need to remove the top slide pin, then rotate the caliper so the pads clear the disc and push the caliper off the bottom (blind) slide pin. It is these slide pins which seize, especially the bottom one. Sometimes it is impossible to rotate the caliper because the pin is seized - it should move with effort, but worst case is to use violence to remove the caliper from the pin - even cut the pin. To do that you need to remove the caliper complete with mounting bracket. (You don't actually need to remove the pads to do the above, but it's probably easier if you do, and certainly easier to get the caliper back on the slide pins with the pads out.) Clean and grease the pins - opinions vary as to the best grease to use - I use 'Corrosion Block' - popular with the motorcycle and aircraft communities but largely unknown in car circles. Buy it on Ebay from motorcycle specialists - there is a spray version and a normal grease version - the latter is what you want. You don't need to oil/grease the pad retaining pins - they should just be clean. You can easily replace the pollen filter - it's mounted in the back of the glove box. MOST IMPORTANT - put the ventilation in recycle mode with engine running before you switch off to do this job.

The lights are secured by one bolt into a bracket, so a bit of play is well possible if you push on the lamp glass. One of mine was broken out of its bracket, I suspect by someone being too heavy handed in trying to remove the bulb holder to change the bulb. (The bulb holder can get quite stuck into its location after a period of time). I fixed the light unit with Araldite. The hatch on the nearside gives limited access. To get at the offside one you have to go in by disengaging the wing liner - that can be done by turning the wheel to full left lock, then undoing the clips securing the liner. Observe carefully how the clips, liner and wing edge relate to each other - it isn't necessarily obvious when you come to reassembly. The clips disengage with a quarter turn. Be careful in distorting the wing liner which you have to do to get to the inner area. Hope that helps!

It's complicated - typically 220D is £205, 250 auto is £290 and 250 manual £490. But it depends on year and model and there are lots of variations - see this to find the tax band: http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/lexus/is/saloon-2005/running-costs/ then this to see the cost for each band:. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax-rate-tables

Be assured - you have done the right thing. Look for an IS250, bearing in mind things to look for (some described above) - eg service record, good tyres (tyres are quite expensive - get money off if they're going to need replacing soon, but good brands are a sign of caring ownership), check the exhaust if you can, especially the pipework in front of the back boxes (it will look a bit rusty but it should be superficial) and check that all the electrics work. Gearchanges should be smooth (if you are looking at an auto, which most of us here recommend). The archives of this forum provide a mine of info on what to look out for.

You don't need a hammer - just a decent strong breaker bar (and a bit of strength!) and a socket - the sort specially designed for oxygen sensors with a slot in the side. If the sensor is not too tight an oe spanner will do.

That's strange - the rears were changed from solid to vented during 2007 production, so it's expected to need the reg/chassis no for them. But solid at the front? Never heard of that - has anyone else got solid discs at the front? (BTW - it's not an owner choice - you have to fit what was used in production as far as the solid/vented thing goes - the calipers are different (unless you want to change the calipers, too, of course))

Ah...I'd remembered reading sect 2.5 of the Owner's manual - it syas 'Lexus does not recommend towing a trailer with your vehicle. It is not designed for trailer towing'. But that is only for vehicles for Singapore! (What can be different?) Further down the page (P171 in my manual) it says to use the Lexus hitch/bracket. Maybe that's type approved? If they are available! And 'Other products of a suitable nature and comparable quality may also be used.' And in the EU - if they are type approved.

They do say that a man's first wee of the day makes for pretty good cat deterrent........! Might even add some extra shine!!!! :eerrrmm:

You can't get a (legal) towbar for the IS250. That's 'cos they (the EU) brought in some regulations in '98 which said that a towbar must be type approved for the particular vehicle. One of the factors in issuing type approval is the recommended towing weight specified by the manufacturer and for the IS250 it's zero (ie Lexus say you can't tow with the IS) Therefore - no type approved bars. And that applies even if you're not going to tow with it. Lots of cars cannot have type approved (or therefore any) towbars these days.

Chances are that a 90K mile 220D could be a money pit - EGR and DPF problems start to rear their heads. Chances are that a 90K mile 250 has 60-100K reliable miles left. with proper maintenance - primarily oil changes. And get the brakes checked every year at least (slider pins clean and lubricated - not on the Lexus schedule, but essential) Of course, you could be lucky with a 220D or unlucky with a 250. And fuel consumption of a 220D seems not to be great, whereas 250 fuel consumption is at least as good as you'd expect from a 2.5 V6 (Still a bit more than a 200D of course). Avoid a manual 250 unless it's a very early one - road tax on April 96 on ones is £480 (probably just gone up. The auto box is great anyway. 220D is always manual. IMHO.

Yeah - the print out from 'The Wheel Alignment Centre' doesn't even show caster. And I would say Argento's figures are fine - pretty similar each side - not sure why there are three figures - maybe measurements at full lock left - centre - full lock right?

Actual caster values are not particularly important, as long as they are similar on each side of the car. If they aren't the car will pull to one side. Caster primarily affects self centering of the steering and straight line stability, but both in a sort of continuous way so nothing terrible happens if it's different to that specified in the setting instructions. It is really something which is determined at the design stage of the suspension and steering.

You can disable this function - I'd recommend doing so - I have had it happen, inevitably on a wet day. It's caused (if not intentional) by the fob in your pocket - every remote I've ever had has operated inadvertently if you bend down or the fob is squeezed in your pocket. The Lexus is no different, but the remote seems to have a longer range than most, so an inadvertent trigger in the house will send them down, unknown to you, on your drive or whatever. I have it disabled now. But it's a TechStream function - you need the proper TechStream software and OBDII connector- dealers can do it but they'll charge. You can obtain it - on Ebay, allegedly illegally - but the EU Motor Vehicle Block Exemption Regulations (BER) directs that car tech information and repair instructions should be freely available (to prevent franchise dealer monopoly) so I doubt that dissemination really is illegal - I think yet to be tested in court though..

But did you clean both the glass and the rubber - if you don't, the rubber will pick up stuff from the glass or the glass will transfer stuff to the rubber. That ebay reference from Normski is correct - those Denso blades are exacly the same as the oe ones - and much better than one piece ones, as Mark said.

Last time I had a stubborn smear like this it turned out to be resin from a conifer tree I'd parked under. Yours could be that or ordinary tree sap (or oil, or.....!). Clean the glass (especially the side edge and bottom where the wiper stops, as well as the smeared area) and the rubber of the blade with white spirit, then with concentrated windscreen wash additive. Don't let the glass and rubber come into contact with each other until you've cleaned both. Examine the rubber carefully to make sure you've removed all deposits. You don't get smears with completely clean wipers and glass!

It's 'cos the price of oil (in US dollars) has increased by about 30% over the last 4 months. Meanwhile the pound has appreciated against the dollar, which tends to reduce the price of oil in pounds, but only by about 7% over the same period. An increase in the pound price of oil increases the cost of petrol - not only the base price but also the VAT component.

Warped discs are almost invariably caused by careless installation - you have to check run-out very carefully when installing. If there's too much, the discs will appear warped (due to thickness variation). 8 months is a pretty typical time period for it to manifest itself. Refunds on 'warped' discs are exceedingly difficult to obtain - manufacturers almost always claim it's due to faulty installation. You might be lucky but unless you have, and use correctly, a dial gauge you are courting problems. Lexus only say to install the disc in the position giving 'minimum runout' but if it's any more than 0.1mm at the disc rim the disc is unlikely to run true enough to avoid apparent warping. But if you do experience it - good luck with a refund!

That of course applies to bolts - our cars have nuts but the procedure would be the same, except that at the end you have to remove the remains of the stud, which may or may not be easy. (They are usually a spline fit in the hub - not sure what method Lexus use. A G-clamp may press them out) Lesson - never, ever, allow a garage or tyre shop to have possession of your car with lock nuts in place. Buy some spare nuts and either dispense with the locks altogether (how many wheels actually get nicked these days?) or replace your lock nuts with the plain ones before you take the car to a garage and replace them afterwards. You'll need a torque wrench to get the nuts to correct and even torque.

I've never really found any problems. Just press the brake pedal harder! You can always get to the point of bringing in the ABS (you would lock a wheel otherwise). I dislike brakes which make a car stand on it's nose when you just touch the brake pedal - my wife's Mii is like that - makes it hard to modulate your braking to stop smoothly. My supercharged MX-5 (which has redstuff pads) needs high pedal pressures and you can modulate the braking easily from 'slight' to 'wheel lock' (no ABS on that) with varying pedal pressures. I know women generally do not like to drive MX-5s with redstuff pads. (Apologies if that's sexist - it just reflects comments I've heard over the years) It seems the smaller and less powerful a car is, the more the brakes feel 'too much', and the faster the car the less braking you seem to have - at first sight. If you've ever driven a racing car you'll know they feel as if they have no brakes at all at first. It's all a matter of feel and using the brakes correctly - and driver experience.

Dunno - check with dealer/warranty provider?

MTEC grooved/drilled discs (black) plus EBC Redstuff pads do it for me. Next time I'll get Yellowstuff pads, but you have to drive really hard to get fade with the Reds - but I use some long steep hills!

2006 IS250 - I have three but I keep one in the boot as I find the centre one obstructs rear vision. Maybe that's what's happened to yours and it has got lost along the way?

I have a friend who is Service Manager at an agricultural engineer. They have problems with a certain brand of foreign tractors - often they won't start even when new and the reason is that that they are now fitted with DPF's. The manufacturer has issued them with a long large diameter drill and instructions to drill out the internals of the DPF. That works! I would think that the sort of drill used to drill big holes through masonry/brick walls would work! Just a thought......

This is what you need. Also available on Ebay, and cheapest from China. It's not a simple cup wrench - it has cut-outs to engage with tabs on the housing.There's a Sealey version and unbranded ones. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-Toyota-Filter-Replacement/dp/B008RXS7FM