Dewfallsuk

I have to agree. 2002 model on a fourcourt go betrween £2500-£3500 I would say 20 % less private if you can find a buyer. These motor are notorious for poor fuel economy coupled with poor performance reletivley speaking anyway. Bonus point easy and cheap to maintain as the technology is basicaly 80s with some modern electricals thrown on. I'm not knocking it I have one and love it but reality!!!

Clutch is hydrulic so no adjustment: Can be caused by sycro ring being damaged/worn. I would though, check clutch operation first as second gear is the most suseptable to wear so any drag on the clutch would show from first to second. I find my box more difficult coming down the gears,seems to stick needs double clutch does'nt grate just stiff! These gearboxes are ok but I find that you have to nurse them through the gears deffinatley no quick shifting. One other thought the duel mass flywheel can cause issues mines fine for weeks then decided to judder and becomes rough. Perhaps yours is draging? I kind of re-set mine by doing a few drop clutch starts no idea why but it seems to reset my clutch. probebly not the best idea but I get so annoyed with this juddering for no reason I sort of rag it and up to now it works.!!! To be honest the clutch and cog box seem to be the achilles heel with this car and ruin what is a nice little motor.

Annual Inflation since 2000 being 29% makes it £30469 at todays figures

This can be done with the water pump in situ? You will need to undo the bypass outlet on the head which should let you remove the bypass pipe. You will need two new orings and bypass outlet gasket and best to get a new bypass pipe. Drain coolant to below water pump level Undo two bolts holding bypass outlet Gently prise away outlet and bypass pipe Clean both o ring surfaces and gasket surface Replace o rings and gasket Torque outlet bots to 9 N.m

The oil filter is a pig to get off. I found it best to raise the car on stands and remove nearside wheel and bottom scuff plate. I also removed the metal brace from the block to the inlect trackt to get better purchase on filter. Apart from that sevicing is straight foward and the car mechanicals are prity straight foward. If you do change the gearbox oil (Manual) make sure you get the drain plug and not the plug retaining the lock balls on the selecter shaft as I am led to beleieve that is an gearbox out job to put right, these are identified by the Allen key type screw head ?

There's a rear track control arm that is used to adjust the rear toe. Looking at your photo this has got to be bent, it may have damaged the top bottom wishbones as the wheel angle now is well beyond the scope of adjustment. Worst case scenario the subframe has been damaged.

No, it's an old car and as the windscreen company are likely to put in the same screen, what is the advantage? Save your money for a good night out.

I mesed up my first week! I've got to input it properly as I did 133 miles and then filled the tank, so it reckoned I only did 9.7 mpg that week . . Dam....one day I find someone worse off than me.

No problem Stuart, we all get to know our cars. My misses will run her car on the fuel light for a week drives me mad, but she,s never run out yet! To be honest I had my previous car reach zero miles to go and managed minus 67 miles before I reached home.

Any way I,m beating you by 0.3 of a gallon, lol

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Only five litres left is pushing it a bit. Imagine a single gallon in the bottom of the tank that spreads right across the back of the car, does not leave much for the fuel pick up. You run the risk of dragging up any deposits from the tank. You'd be surprised what accumulates in the tank over 10 years. I'm sure that by the time you take in the filler neck you might have a bit more capacity but I would fill as soon as the light comes on as a minimum precaution.

Very strange, you have no Engine Management light or flashing Traction Control symbol. But still have a misfire? The EM system monitors all parameters and should register the fault even if mechanical as the engine would expel un-burnt fuel. It would be strange but not impossible for all the coil packs to fail at once, whilst a certain fault code points to a potential problem area it does not always mean the specific item is at fault. I might look at the crankshaft & camshaft sensors as these do the job of an old fashion distributor, if it is giving false data to the ECU the engine may misfire? But again this would be picked up by the EM system. Is the misfire right across the rev range? Do you have the original fault code as that may help.

I use the same Fuelly to monitor my cars.# My driving is all urban and semi urban stop start traffic. The goal is IS 200 >30 MPG and the Aygo >50 MPG I know what one my moneys on?

I usually fill as soon as the light comes on as I live next to Tesco. Would not push it to 50 miles although if I did might be nearer the magic 400 miles? Fuel wise the car is designed to run on unleaded and is happy to do so as its not a high output engine. Some on here swear by super unleaded but there's no real evidence to show any advantage. Like most things you pays your money and makes your choice!

I call this the 350 mile car, I can,t better 350 mp/tank doesn't matter if I drive like a tw#t or a grandad? Maximum 24mpg

I had a 09 plate avensis and this system came with car as part of the maintenance kit from Toyota, worked ok for temporery repair but eventually wore off with washes.

Saw these refurbished at £350, spotted the same set on eBay previously for £399. I not 100% sure about the 225 I,m sure they will fit but a bit wider. Worse case you may have to reduce the aspect ratio to keep the rolling diameter.

Access to the oil filter is best from underneath. Put the car on axle stands and remove the N/S front wheel, and under-tray. You will then see the filter right up under the inlet manifold, I also removed the brace from the block to the manifold bit fiddly but give's greater access. I used one of these to remove the filter. Yes you should use a washer I used a copper one. Oil should be good quality semi or fully synthetic 5w/30 like this. Fully synthetic will give better performance over longer change periods, I would not spend a fortune on oil just a good branded product.

These cars leak like sieves the sealer between the rear quarter and the back panel can crack, especially if its had minor bump. The rear ventilators leak also can get in through bumper retainer on the side, especially if jet washed. I,ve coated mine in rubber paint as was starting to rust in panel joints.

Here we go again......

I don't now of any specialist lexus breakers but most things can be found via eBay, see the link below £50 seems reasonable. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS-IS200-2000-ELECTRIC-SUNROOF-/360561697103?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f326e14f

The sunroof retracts into the roof space. There are two drive cables to pull the roof along in an even fashion maybe one side on yours has become un-attached? On the drive gear there are markings for aligning the drive gear to the cables if some has messed with this it maybe trying to pull out of sink. This problem will be either simple to fix remove the trim to see if you can see any obvious problems or maybe best to secure a replacement unit from a salvage yard and replace the unit. If you can download the Lexus manual then section BO-85 & 86 gives parts diagrams and removal instructions.

There are kits available "http://www.glasspolishshop.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=48_63" they include polishing compound and sealants and fine wet & dry sanding disc's. I did my IS200 and they worked well.

A bit premature as winter has a way to go yet?