Upex

Never heard of it being done, but if can be put in, must be able to be removed 🤔 could easily work out more expensive than changing the sensors though i guess, especially if knacker up any car coding 😬 However is that not an mot failure for post 2007 cars? I thought, could easily be wrong, that if the car has tpms then it has to work to pass.... mine passes with a duff sensor but only as she old (2006) The sensors in the pressured box trick posted on here a few times could be a solution though, albeit still need working sensors 🙄

Think they were misunderstanding you and quoting for the shock struts, ie shock absorbers for suspension! That is bonkers 😲😬🤯

Sorry for delay Delp, but all I mean is start the car, sit there in park and turn the steering wheel steadily (not fast or slow, just average speed) from lock to lock, as far left as you can go, hit the stop then go as far right as you can go, then repeat left and right 1 or 2 more times. Not sure which lights you have / it clears, but this does reset a steering position sensor or some sorts and clears vsc or whatever lights. Had them a few times when battery (12v not hybrid) was dying and being changed etc, and its a simple 30s job. From memory, I think I've had these lights trigger when clearing stuff with techstream etc, the wheel method above cleared them.

Could be valves or rim seal like folk said, or a small puncture or porous alloys, however give the even drop on 3, I suspect weather/temp change for those and that means the 4th has lost a further 4 or 5 psi so has something else going on. Get the leak test and check that 4th wheel for the valve, all around the bead outside and inside edges and if that doesn't help, then check for punctures, like a screw still in place and then if not joy, check the rest of the wheel. Few mins and a fiver and least you know what your dealing with - better than paying 10 for a shop to pop and seal bead and it perhaps still not fix it.

Have you tried reseting these via turning steering wheel lock to lock to lock to lock, should reset sensors and lights go away.

I'd suspect alignment for your steering wheel being off. Had mine done twice and its off a touch, as had right stalk down one notch and they centred it off those 🤦‍♂️ Didnt cotton on until later and couldn't be bothered to go back a 3rd time, and the slight dip to right is better for my arm on window, more comfy so left it.

I'd suggest checking the aerial connections, for a disconnection / poor connection via either having pulled apart, being a bit loose or for corrosion as first point of call, but likely means removing unit and some linings and trim, but if you get some station now and again, I think it suggests an issue with signal rather than the unit being bust etc.

Agreed. If you're not changing wheels, just the tyres, the radius R number must match and the width needs to be within that which the rim width can take. I've not tried it on my GS, but I suspect that going to a smaller R number would add more cushioning for a smoother ride, but youll have more body roll and rock, I suspect likely noticeable more so on a heavy car as she is especially dropping to a 17. You can vary the 18 size a little, perhaps to a 240/45/18, which is 3.1% larger in circumference so pushing limits of change without impacting speedo etc (3% max is recommended) but that would give you a thinner larger wheel, so more economy at speed, but little less rubber in road and more side wall for a softer ride. Depends on what you're going for i guess. Re cheap or expensive, there are some great cheap tyres on market and some real ditchfinders. Heard lots on here about landsail and I've used marshal's on 4 cars and they been great. Have used top end Contis and others to, and to be fair, didnt notice much difference other than to my wallet 😬 I buy tyres on wet grip and noise rating now, pick the best value I can find where I need them for those ratings. Pay an extra £10 for a better wet/noise, yes, pay twice the price for a 1bd reduction, no thanks. Good hunting 😉

No pics, but I had exact same thing, went back for 3 visits, all the same. Back adjusters seized and steering wheel off centre a touch, turned out that light stork was in auto, so 1 notice from equal position and thats what they were centering to, so storks looked even. Never went back to adjust to true even storks, got used to it and my ocd actually prefers thats storks are even to the wheel now 🤣😂

Mine similar, due to too much polishing/dirt abuse having scratched the lens. Was going to swap it out for a new camera unit but never did as use the beeps not the image anyway (only bumped 2 things to date 🤣) Not sure about aftermarket lens, but seen a few lexus/Toyota ones on the bay for not silly money. Let us know how you get on with it and good luck of course.

I believe it will do so if not up to temp or there are other demands needing it, like high ele output required and low battery type combos. When up to temp already and no huge current draw, then should start the engine and be able to move away on ele, until you put too much accelerator down 😉

What pressure runs in them? Surely a way to plug 2 leaks? Especially if in block work rather than any fancy joints or such.... Seems we all throw away too much these days, economics, speed, some are worthy I guess.

Dvd player, amp, sub connection, dab radio, radar boxes or similar perhaps? Those things like to be tucked into boots for lots of cars... perhaps looms have optional extra connections built in as standard. So answer is no, sorry 🙄

John, that's exactly what I had to do to free my 3 of 4 stuck pistols, bar I used a brake rewind tool and block to push back in. 4th stuck piston wouldn't move at all, even with days of penetrating fluid (good stuff not universal) and heat, hence got a second set of calipers 🙄 Sounds like you're doing a grand job though, and something good coming out of this unexpected 'free time' I'm locking in at the girlfriends, typical as have a long list of jobs at home, cars and house (in the middle of a bathroom replacement which has stopped completely 😬🙄) Keep us posted and good luck 😊

Can the bolt not be pushed out via a punch and hammer? Unlikely to be threaded apart from the nut, which you have off, so can only be friction and corrosion, the former of which can be jostled with via playing with the loading on the joint by hand or jack etc as pertinent to the bushing

Let us know how you get on with the piston kit John. I have a piston stuck solid, tried everything to move it (still on car) and not a jot. The other 7 pistols were all in bad shape, with 3 more seized (inner pistols I think on both sides) that I managed to free off and clean up. This was having failed mot on disks, so I fitted new discs and pads, but needed to use a grinder to cut the pad down on the inner drivers side (the one with piston stuck out) to get the pad in, took about 60% off it 😬. Passed the mot 🙄 and then again the next year 🙄🙄. I have since got a set of used calipers and will send them off for a complete refurb and paint, then swap both calipers. Just a struggle to find time / money and not been in a rush given that even with that piston not working, she still brakes better than I'd expect. Seems the calipers are a weak point if not looked after (mine were knackered when I got her from previous owner).

I love the 450h, for an old car, it's perfect in all bar boot space and could be more economical, but who cares with so much grunt and such a smooth ride 😊 Re costs, I think lexus would be considered expensive vs other main brands, they are quality and dont have the volume of ford, vx, frenchies etc. But one must expect that surely... you would expect to change brakes on an Aston for the price of a KA etc. I've spent about the same on my old gal changing brake disk and pads x 2, 2 front calipers, rear shocks, control arm bearings, 2 x exhaust welds and full servicing plus few other bits and bob's, than a replacement smeg unit cost for my c4 picasso. Dare say that wouldn't be the case had I needed a mech to do it all, especially if it were lexus main dealer. I've not driven much, but do think the pump bearing replacement has helped fuel economy slightly, will see, but thus far I'm a happy chap 😊

Thanks steve, it was a heck of a job, so fiddly and no room. Worst bit was trying to remove the bloody cable clips, had to cut and break some, so removing included cable ties to keep cables away from exhaust and steering shaft etc. Having done this with just a small axle stand, I have renewed my desire for a lift, would have been so so much easier, but if she holds out and doesn't pop, I'm a happy chap. Thanks for battery info both, makes sense and I'm glad my batteries weren't goosed after a 3 month stand, very relieved indeed ☺

Well, i put the HV plug back in properly this time and she started 😊 been for a short drive and batteries charged back up and were working normally and the gear ratio change is smoother and faster than it ever was since I've had her, so 🤞 it's done the trick. No dashboard errors flagged up after fitting the HV plug properly (push in, lock latch, push across 🙄), but I will put back on techstream to check for anything. Thanks all, hopefully she's good to go now 🤞😊 Back to the tile, how the exhaust breaking caused the pump to bite the bullet, no idea, I'm saying pure coincidence, guess I'll never know 🙄

Many thanks Chris, will try when home and 🤞 that's all it is 🤞 Re the voltage, if mine are showing 15v, but should be 8v, sounds bad to me 😬 and way beyond my knowledge to explain why could be so high after sitting unused - I'd have expected them to be low not high. Do I need to do anything/check anything? Many thanks

All good thanks, keeping head down as far as can 😬 Yes, thanks for the info, good to know it was right, albeit I did try the other one first as easier to get to, but, there was oil behind both plugs, so I'm hoping me trying the lower hole hasn't caused issues - we'll see when can get her started 🙄

Hi Farqui, hope you and yours are well. Nope, neither plug has WS on them - I was expecting that to 🙄. No other plug does either, that I found at least. Markings on the trans housing are what look like T and IKM. Only other mark was a blue line on the top bolt, like pen but factory marker. Let us know how you get on, as I'll want to do mine soon, if i've not killed her 😬🤞 One note, the bolts didn't take much torque at all.

Not sure about the 430, but the 450 hybrid doesn't have a dip stick and the only way to get the fluid in would be to add via the transmission as you would if changing fluid etc - fill plug or cooler hose, depending on the procedure for your car. Sorry not of much use, but sure someone who knows the 430s will be along before too long 😊

Thanks to all for the info, I've finally managed to get the pump back in and fluid in today, but she wont start now, pulling codes of: P0A0D - high voltage system inter-lock circuit high C1259 - HV control system regenerative malfunction C1310 - HV system malfunction Are these symptoms of me having broke/killed the pump, having not reconnected everything, or that having been stood for too long she's now got other issues? I did pull the HV connector/fuse thing in boot when started all this, but that was quite some months ago, but I'd still have expected her to run on petrol even if hybrid batteries flat (all cells show between 15.19v and 15.34v is that ok?) Off to do some research, but if anyone has any ideas please do shout up as my insurance is up in 2 weeks and if I can't sort I may have to scrap. Which would be an utter shame as she's ace and I love her (apart from tiny boot 😂) Thanks all and 🤞 Edit: could it be that in my tired and freezing state I've not put the HV isolater plug thingy in the boot back properly? Just watched a vid on Prius and that had to be closed and then slid across. I closed it but didn't slide it, do we have to on the gs or is that a Prius thing? 🤔

Top one took the fluid, bottom one didnt 🙄