Upex

What type of testing did these places do to battery? Simple voltage check, or proper load drop test? You've not said what capacity the battery is, perhaps it's too small? I've no idea how big they should be, I'd guess rather small given the setup, vs other large saloons, so I'm using fictitious figures here on in. Assuming a 100 amp hour battery, then to be a non starter, you'll need to drop it to say 50, so given it won't be fully charged, 100% by time you park up let's assume a healthy 90%, means your losing circa 40 amph between sat pm and Mon am, so assuming you park up at 6pm sat until 8am Mon, that's a loss of 40 amp hours during the 38hrs, so your dropping over an amp an hour, thats a lot. A 5w bulb in boot will draw 5/12 of an amp, or 0.42amp, so unless you've got 2 x 5w bulbs in the boot, this isn't the only source of drain, unless your battery lacks the juice at 75% charge, which would be a poor show. You can try removing bulb, but easier and faster method is to stick your video recorder on your phone, lie it in boot, camera up of course and shut boot. When retrieved, play video back and see if the lights on, confirmed result in minutes. Paying £100 plus at this stage, I say hold off, likely the fix, even if a new battery, would be cheaper than that.

Malachy, how you restore head lights? Cleaners, or sanding down and clear coat? Mine gone at top, so not interfering with light, but starting to spoil looks

How's about a couple of days away, a ferry, nice drive and a visit to hybridbatterysolutions. Comes very highly recommended. Otherwise not a clue sorry.

What capacity battery do you have and have you measured it when parking up sat pm and then again on monday morning to see how much juice your losing over 36hrs? Seems odd to lose so much you can't start on Monday, after a day and half, but are ok to start each morning. Assuming this is the issue your having? Must be a heck of a current draw. Do you have a meter that can show current draw? If so, get it hooked up, somewhere you can see it when car locked, ie so cables coming out boot. Lock car and leave it to go into sleep mode, then check what draw you have. You can also check draw with car off and then start isolating circuits to see which is drawing what current. You sure the battery ok though? I'd get it tested elsewhere as aa may have just wanted to save the claim etc.

Surely it can't be right all the time unless using a gps based sysytem, as due to tyre inflatation and wear, which both impact the rolling circumference, either a wheel or gearbox or ecu pickup would only be counting revs, and extrapolating distance travelled, rather than measuring actual distance travelled.

I thought the drain was on a spring seal John? Ie remove that cover piece and screw in the drain hose. When screwed in, it pushes a plate off the seal and allows the oil to drain out, but needs the piece in place in order to do so. This is purely without foundation though, as don't have one, never seen one and no experience of one. What drives it is common sense, and that one of the American sites said that their plug needed to have a part turned after being fitted to allow it to drain, but this could be built into their part vs the housing I guess.

Nice one, thanks John. Will do some thinking and see what want to do. Thanks as always.

Agreed, if vertically mounted, would be worth while. Not bothered about drain, but am about the tool not fitting the wider second ring and thus not seating properly and locating on the lower tangs. Looks like I'll be buying a third tool, ridiculous.

Don't suppose you have a spare plug John? Or know what type is needed? Not keen on cutting, but happy to run to head unit or amp. Be interested in how this could be Bluetooth to. Assume the converter would just be a different one that does Bluetooth? Cheers,

All my previous cruise cars (at least 40 odd) have shown cruise speed, so you know what your resuming to if you knocked it off but it remains set. I have the radar cruise in the gs, as it's an early se-l (so standard fit), think it shows the speed, but will have to check as can't recall for certain. Seems odd to me to, if it's not being shown for op motor, especially if has a resume feature. But then there a few oddities with the gs that break the norm vs all other cars I've had (no bulb out warnings, no pad warning lights (just the noise piece), ball joints not on Trac rod ends, no soft close doors etc)

I used all genuine toyota bits, all fIlters, oil (0w20), even plugs, although they not made by Lexus/toyota of course. Nippon were cheaper for genuine bits than ecp were with aftermarket bits and a sale one. So ordered the full service kit with the rear shocks and track rod ends (which I didn't need), but they didn't have the ball joints, so I got blue print ones of those elsewhere.

Are the cables which need cutting optical? Been doing some digging and everything says the head unit to amp cable is optical, unless this si on later models? If it's optical, I'm wondering how these are spliced, whilst retaining the quality (ie alignment of the optic cable) as any misalignment would cause loss of sound.

So, oil changed, but tool wasn't a good fit. It has the 3 (on either side) notches to locate on the extra tangs (although my housing only has 1 on either side, not 3), but it wasn't wide enough at that outer part (ie needs to be wider diameter). The flutes fitted though, a touch loose, but perhaps that's because it couldn't seat all the way home, and it did come off without need for breaker bar etc. Regards oil housing drain, good job I didn't get one, as it's not got one. Wonder if I have an early version housing, that's not quiet normal. Might look at replacing it so tool fits properly and I have the drain, although didn't get a drop on my from the housing, so not really needed I'd say.

Had same with a range rover immobiliser at Bluewater or whatever's it's called, big shopping place in Essex Kent way. Waited 4 hrs for breakdown to show up, then he run out of hours whilst driving us back to norfolk so had to drop us and wait for another. Finally got home about 10hrs from call out, circa 3am, and when he rolled it off the flatbed, was fine and started without issue lol. Think the moral is that these cars should have overrides and we should know them lol.

O sorry, not going well here, thought our keys would have been the same but see your car an 07 whereas mine an 06, so guess screws were added in 07 lol

What Steve said rings a bell now, good job steve

Don't think you need a screwdriver Andrew, take key out, use key end to pry case apart, there a recess the right size. Believe there a sensor at front headlining area, but may be incorrect. Check the parts images online, they will show you where, ish, they are I'm sure.

If you have any key cover in place, you might want to check the t&cs. Should you happen to misplace your key, you maybe able to claim for it, and as part of that, they may well code any existing keys to keep working to. Provided the cover doesn't only kick in when all keys are lost of course. However even if that were the way, perhaps it's cheaper to have the second key added when you locate it again, having had the lost key replaced, if you get my drift?

Looks black to me lol

No, may do in future but can't see it being that necessary on a horizontal filter to be honest. Read somewhere that it was designed for a vertical filter (makes sense), but that just puzzled me as thought these were all horizontal lol. I'm presuming that if the oil is drained then when the seal is broke on the housing, it'll drain like a cartridge type, ie leave it connected but lose, leave it drain the majority then remove. Will likely be messy, but can't see that the drain will help that much, as the hold is central, thus you'd only be draining to circa half way anyway. More concerned with getting it off, as if someone had the tool with extra teeth (to fit the lower bars) and that broke, then I may be in for a fight. Given the torque spec is listed everywhere, I really hope it's not been put on by the hulk, but, I've met some incredible torque thus far (wheel bolts, suspension bolts, caliper bolts etc) is hope this will be different.

Apologies John (gs450hSe) i wasnt meaning to hijack your thread. Your question and the replies spurred my queries, they weren't there to be asked until reading the above. However, we have confirmed for future browsers, that the solution is about for earlier cars, and that a cheaper diy solution also exists as well exploring how the functionality may integrate with different set ups (my bt connects as calls only, I checked it), so I'd like to believe it has yielded potential benefits. I'll duck out now 😁

I'd be interested in instructions John, for the wireless adaptation, hate cables in car. Will check out the above, as at first glance, can't figure out what the wires are that form the squares at the cut Mark. Also, you say if can find a plug, the plug wire wouldn't need to be cut. Can you elaborate, as id be keen to build something more complex etc, if can save cutting original cable. Think I'd head to the boot, getting the head unit out looks like a real pain to do without marking anything. Ps, thanks for calling out this thread. Hadn't seen it, but very glad I did. Now if only you could figure out a full solution of charge, audio and display input over usb c, you'd be a very popular (even more so) chap 😁 Thanks

Thanks both. Ordered one today, with the extra 'tangs' although it was one of them broke off the p.o. filter tool, as that's the bit I found lol. Fingers crossed it was just a cheap and knackard tool which broke and not a sign of a welded shut filter housing. Hopefully will do it this weekend, will report back. Fingers crossed!

Agree, I bought a big iPod touch and have plenty of music, but, and it's a big but, there is no order to it, it's sorted by track name and doesn't display artist or album info, so I literally have a massive list of a,a,a,a,b,b,b etc by track with no easy way to find an artist or album, and its driving me nuts. Spend most journeys just skipping track after track to find something I'm in the mood for. Being able to bt or wire in my phone (samsung s8) would resolve all, hence the interest

Apologies this has been done to death, but want to be 100% What size removal tool do it need for the 450h oil filter housing? Seen 901s advertised, but I already have that and it wouldn't fit on, almost but not quite, hence wanting to double check. Appears that someone has broke a tooth off an old filter tool in the past, as found it in the tray below, so it may well be on tight, thus any recommendations for a strong one? Are they prone to being stuck? Also, is the bleed dolt and hose worth it, or do you lot not bother? Cheers all