Upex

I'm going with bottom one 🤞🤞🤞

Why all, finally got round to replacing trans pump bearings and not sure which is the fill plug for the atf. There are two plugs on side on the trans, 1 higher and one lower. Which do I remove to add the new atf as dont want to do it wrong 😬 Thanks all

I have the 30 pin connector and tried many adapters to convert to lightening or bluetooth or micro usb and usb type c and none worked. I ended up buying a used ipod touch, loading that with music and just leave it in the car. With the touch plugged in and powered (it doesn't shut off with the car so flattens itself if parked for ages or not driven car enough to charge it properly) the music is accessed via the CD function. Can't recalls if its first press or second, as the cd changer still works so you can choose between both. If the ipod is flat of charge, it takes a minute or two to then be selectable, as needs to power up and load etc before the option is available via the cd selection.

I had similar, was ball joints. Easy diy, but check parts well, as I ended up with lower arms that I didnt need, as checked wrong drawings 🤦‍♂️

LWerewolf, what do you mean by atf not adjusted properly? John, many thanks, good to know I wont crunch the box up as it were if shift her to the drive, thanks for confirming 😊

I wish I had, was a heck of a job and I'm dreading trying to get it back on to be fair, not much room when on back that's for sure. I would say do sooner than later john, I think mine been dead a while, way before throwing any errors and still cant get my head round the fact it coincided with exhaust braking day, the break was miles away from the pump 🙄 Anyone know if I can put it in N and push her with no atf in her? Dont want to knackered her but could do with shifting on to the drive.

Just a quick update, found a day to get under the car and what a job it turned into. Exhaust bracket, both outer bolts rusted and seized solid. Snapped one trying to get it off, after copious soaking in pen fluid, heat, shocks whatever I thought might free it 🙄 the other side is so corroded on the head that it wont take a socket. Got to the pump by bending the bracket, so have to source another now, or bend it back. Dumped the ATF, wondering which fill plug itll be, as none as stamped ws as I've seen on another thread. Stinking, dark, but still with red in it, thinking this isn't original oil at 166k miles, or its held up very well. Accidentally dropped a wrench and sprayed used oil all over my face, in mouth and eyes, the works. Not enjoying this spanner session 🤦‍♂️ Pump lowered, no way on earth that the pump was coming apart when on car. So went to pull it all out and the vast number of clips were a royal PITA. Took me 2hrs to get them all, what a chore. Pump on bench, shaft not turning at all, even with pliers it was very stiff. The bolts holding it together were seized, rounded off the Phillip's heads and took an angle grinder and half ince impact driver and big lump hammer and another 2hrs to get them out, what a job 😬 The front plate was bent in places like it's been opened before, and I think the bolts should have been hex/Allen head, not posi screw domes, wonder if this is its second set of bearings? Opened up and both front and rear bearings totally knackered, with rear having nearly disintegrated, housing full of metal dust 🤦‍♂️ Tried to tap out the shaft lightly, wasnt moving, so called it quits until another day. Thinking I should have perhaps considered parting out the old gal 😉

Cheers all, a lot of info to review and at work, so will digest and come back, but thank you so much for giving your time to help, very much appreciated 😊 Lwerewolf, I note your point on codes causing engine to run constantly, but this isn't my symptom, I'd be happy if it was as least is usuable. Hybrid runs perfectly fine, ele only, both, charge and discharge etc, just doesn't stay ready when come to stop. When restart, have to be lightening fast to get moving before it goes unready again, as engine doesn't kick it until moving etc. Not sure if it changes anything or not, but if the engine ran at a stop and allowed me to pull away and be in petrol only, I'd be far less worried 🙄 Now to order 5l of atf WS, as found and ordered bearings 🤞 would this atf work? Says WS but also TOYOTA: T-II, T-III, T-IV, WS https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F121852237241 Used their engine oil before and seemed fine. Cheers all, you're legends 😁

So, I'm going to try the bearing replacement, but wonder what oil and how much? Seen atf WS mentioned, but is that the only spec? Does it need to be lexus/toyota, or will other brands do? No viscosity numbers to worry about? How much will I need to drain, do bearings and then replace the fluid? Lots of quart talk in states, 12 or 13 quarts, and good guide on gs300, is that's the same tranny and procedure? Bearings for the pump are quoted as 61900-2Z front bearing 608-2Z rear bearing But does make matter? Dunlop or skf, will they be the same if number is? presume I need a bearing puller, but does the front one come off front ways and rear one rear, or both same way? Will I know when new one in right place or should they be marked before removing old? thanks all and sorry for the list of questions, little nervous I'll stumble when deep in it so trying to cover everything first.

Afraid not, drove 20 miles ish fine, thought good but then stopped in traffic and she went unready and errors returned. Not scanned them yet, but look and behave same 🙄 Bizarre as hybrid functioning fine, drives, discharges, charges etc all normally, just cant stay ready at a standstill 😬

So, exhaust sorted and back to quiet 😅 and drove back from garage without a stall, so that's promising, albeit errors were still there when picked up from this morning, so will have to clear them and see at next drive 🤞

Thanks lwerewolf, I'll do that, just wish whatever it was kept the engine running, would save me getting stuck at stops 😬 Fingers crossed the exhaust weld sorts it today. I'll post back when known 🤞

Hi john, The only codes in the entire car are the two above, transmission pressure and the driver. Nothing on engine etc. I do see in the shots above that some pressures are reading negative, is this normal? The car stalled at roundabout way before I hit the 60mph plus switch over, couldn't have gone above 45 before issues reappeared. I've cleared the codes and will be driving back to the garage for the exhaust fix tomorrow, so 🤞 however I expect them to return before I get there as they did last week. If they do, I'll clear down again when home tomorrow night and hopefully as they will be cleared after the exhaust repair, that will be it. Perhaps something is getting hotter due to the exhaust blowing where it shouldn't, but I doubt it 🙄 Will check out the bearing thing, as sounds a good place to start, but having read one or two posts, they seem to be able to drive on petrol only for a while, and dont have the stalling issues I have, ie coming to a stop and ready light going out and unable to move away. Will report back when know more, and hopefully this isn't terminal, as I do love the car 🤞 Thanks, Upex

So, just plugged into techstream and have 2 hybrid codes, P0868 transmission fluid pressure low P2797 auxiliary transmission pump driver Do you think these could have been caused by the stalls and such? Or is it a massive coincidence that the exhaust breaks and I get transmission issues that very same day? Trans has always been faultless, never so much as a hiccup 🙄 Not sure what readings I'm looking for, but have taken pics and attach here in case anyone can see anything etc.

So, drove to garage yesterday morning, no error and driving fine for about 80% then hit a roundabout and back to cutting out / not ready and errors returned. Got to garage, they can weld exhaust, so will get it done tuesday. Here's hoping the errors fix themselves when it's done 🤞 The HV battery was working fine there and back, even got up to a green charge and ran for a long time on just battery, even after the errors reappeared and is charging and discharging as per normal, so I hope that's a good sign 🤞 Farqui, as far as I saw from quick look under (not lifted etc) there is the front section from manifold to the middle muffler (assuming it's a muffler vs cat as think there a cat on each bank vs a single one further back?), the rear side of that middle muffler has a flange which bolts to the rear section. Its inbetween that flange and the rear end of that mid muffler which has come off, so garage will weld a sleeve into the muffler and reattach the flange and done. Re sensors and such, didnt see anything untoward, but then cant say I saw any cables or sensors at all, wasnt really looking to be fair. Not hit anything, think it's just age, as had to have the rear y piece cut out and replaced a couple of years ago, so it's likely just starting to go in other places. Thanks both

Hi John, thanks for the reply. The traction battery had good charge when it happened, like 2 bars from full. The 12v battery should be good to, as it's only 6mths old or so and car has been used daily and not stood etc. Yes was showing as charging when driving before it happened etc, didnt look afterwards, but was driving on ele only and the battery display is still showing half charge now, so I'd say it was still charging. Dial in blue etc as per normal during that last leg home 😬😬😬

Hi all, Wanted to canvas opinion if I may. Car is 2006 450h se-l, circa 158k miles. Driving to work today, very wet and very crappy roads, the exhaust decided to sheer off between front and back sections, great. Lots more noise and less go, so did the extra 2 miles to work no problems. Driving back home, did about 11 miles no issues and then had to stop at temporary lights in a very awkward place. Soon as stopped the ready light went out and car effectively stalled. Restarted, ready light on, only to go off few moments later before I could pull away. Did this about 5 times and then I got the check hybrid system message come on, plus few other errors, vgrs and such. I had to hold foot lightly on the gas to get the engine to fire up and stay on to keep car ready to move to not be stranded there, blocking traffic and causing utter chaos. Whilst doing this for the longest light change ever, the engine light also came on after a few moments. Made it home with some petrol driving, electric driving, slows, acceleration, turns and stops etc, brought car to stop to make 3 point turn, did it and parked all fine, but with hybrid warning and check engine light still on, but think the vgrs and such had gone. Turned off and on again and errors still there, but was lit ready. Ran in house thinking 'not now' given my second car was just taken off the road due to mot failures (bushes and usual consumable easy stuff, just lack of time) and just been hit with redundancy notice, but also wondering if the hybrid/engine light could be related to exhaust being broke, or is just the most freeky coincidence ever given I've had the car 3 or 4 years, and apart from a flat battery in tpms and boot, plus a leaky shock and broken exhaust y piece (consumables again and expected with age/miles) she seriously hasn't missed a beat in all this time. Best old car I've ever had by miles. So, anyone know if a broken exhaust could do this? Can't get her on tech stream to pull codes as all parking spaces are full near house and dont have extension long enough to reach others (laptop battery is goosed so needs to be plugged in) Thanks for any input 😊

Sorry for the delay john manic busy 🙄 I lived and worked in south wales for several years, hence knew the cardiff long life centre. They did a few complete custom exhausts for cars I was I fitting out with ICE installs and all customers were very happy with results, and there were some high end cars and not so much, full range. I had a little bit done by them on a few cars and also very happy. If you're in Cardiff now and again, sounds like its be worth popping in for a chat and price etc. Re the tape reinforcement, cant do any harm, apart from making it a mess (ie not easy to remove for future work) but if going to replace vs repair, wont be an issue I guess. Good luck though, hope it gets sorted, let us know how you get on. Upex

Wow, that's how it should be done!

I'd recommend longlife, there is one in basingstoke I think. Not used that branch before (Cardiff) but mine were top notch

I had a few quotes from Lexus Norwich, and declined warranty stuff, went elsewhere or DIY everytime, have always been very high, too high! But the bigger discs explains most of it. One warping, either faulty goods or a stuck caliper or bad brake force distribution... I'd be looking into both calipers to find out

Presume you not looking for the hybrid, as that boot doesn't even fit my cars wheel in (having found out after a recent puncture) without emptying the whole boot and playing some hold and slam shut actions 🤦‍♂️ I have never seen a non hybrid, but would suspect you'd be fine with wheels out. But, let's the pure petrol folks advise for sure. Good hunting

Is it 100% a lense? Could it be a bung of sorts to hide a screw access hole or something? Cant think of any reason for another lense, except a po having stalled a rear dash cam...

My tpms warns of check system when cold, battery on one is on last legs, so when cold, fails. When warm, returns back to life. Cycled about 20 times lol. Not even been out to the Lexus with the snow, its 14 inch deep here, so took the dirt bike to work yesterday, was fun bar the white outs, one of which saw me nearly hit someone house having rode right up their garden. but was pure ice on way home, so stayed indoors today. Drive safe folks

Agree with all, should be lit properly or not at all. 2 reasons for partial lighting spring to mind, 1 p.o. has tried to obscure a properly lit light as previously suggested, or 2, there is current leakage on the board that houses the lights, ie a tiny bit of current is 'jumping' from a live (or ground, depends on which is 'switched' by the car, g or l) to this circuit, so the car is not providing power to light the eml hence not fully lit, but this bit of bleed current is allowing a small flow and thus partial lighting. Guess there is a third option, in that it's lit, but there is a non p.o. obstruction blocking most of the light, ie dead fly or bug etc. Does the eml light up fully when powering on through test cycle? If so, this rules out options 1 and 3, leaves current bleed. If it doesn't light up properly when turning on or via test cycle, it's looking like 1 or 3, or a fault with that circuits power and or control. Let us know what you test and find out etc, it's interesting. Edit, wonder how light is partitioned between lamps within the cluster? Perhaps rather than current leakage, it's light leakage from another source?