Upex

Fair point Andrew. When I connect to something it does say calls and audio type thing, never seen what the car bt pops up with, will check it out. Never tried to connect to 2 before, and don't have anything to try it, ie everything I have connects as call and audio, so there maybe a conflict between calls then. Will give it a stab though and see if it presents the option of which should handle calls. I assume one of these units would replace the iPod adapter that was put in by Lexus? Thanks

Had a look at this from thing, as I've tried several way of trying to play my phone music through car but no joy. My motor was a 2006, and the from says from 2007 onwards, does it mean it won't work, as not sure what changed between 06 and 07. Also, assume you can't use factory Bluetooth for calls if using bt to stream music to the grom? Otherwise looks great and very interest. I share Andrews remarks regards the sunroof. Very brave indeed.id never be that out there, I don't believe the end result could ever be close enough to factory, ie neat, as not only is there the tin, it's the headlining, controlls etc. Dare say it's doable, as soo many silicone sealers about it's likely possible to seal anything, but, I'd want to see work they have done previously for quality, and I'd be researching if the standard hole from lexus is reinforced, ie cutting a hole is likely to lead to just a gap in the sheet metal, not over turned edges making a sold it edge etc, like the factory.d

Spot on there Alan, why o why do they do it. I end up soaked as keep wiping water off door controls on go my jeans lol

No apology needed John, you either know some local or don't. I prefixed my post as had it many times before where folks chip in after the fact to say you shouldn't have gone there etc lol, useful! Yeah, already had that conversation with them, chap was nice to be honest, think they'll do it correctly. Just need to unstuck the rear now, as it's way out on one side. Cheers

Couldn't get reads adjusted, bolt stuck. Front brought back to spec, but steering wheel slightly off, so will have to go back and get it tweaked. Driving much much better though, the hop skip and jump, gone.

On absence of recommendations, I've headed to local shop. Turns out she is off on toe. I take it red is really bad lol. Here's hoping adjusters work lol

For me, it's a no, unknown, yes. But, I do like the purpose, so be interested in the replies.

Anyone know any decent places to get tracking done in norfolk? Preferably norwich area? As need it done but had few bad experiences in past that I'm keen to not repeat. Thanks

Thanks Alan, saves me buying new ones to find same trouble. Still, I personally think having no clearing mecahisum is crazy and could be dangerous to a point. Who's got any recommendations for the best hydrophobic coatings then?

Glad you got it sorted, and reasonably to. Better than 2k from Lexus, result!

Thanks John. The manifold was on tight, way more than 13ft lb, I struggled to undo the deep recessed Allen bolt near firewall, as had to us a long Allen key coupled with a spanner for leverage, as long Allen bit in socket adapter wasn't long enough. They were well over torqued! I'll undo and redo correctly today and see if helps. Thanks, again, your a true font of knowledge of John!

What's the torque for the inlet manifold? Couldn't find anything, so had to free hand it. Thanks John, although mine at 22nm, oups. Given the washers already crushed, I'll leave them as they are. Guessing the extra 4nm won't hurt too much?

Well, changing plugs proved more difficult than I thought it would, those 3 on the passenger side, what a needless struggle. Ended up loosening the inlet manifold to get bit more room, and had to unclips several connectors. I'm pretty sure I've connected everything back again, but, when I tried the car with new plugs, it sounded louder than before and not as quick, but could be my paranoia. Hope so. Will recheck everything tomorrow, but wonder if anyone else had same experience and if so, what was it? Perhaps something I've overlooked to? I torque set the plugs to 22nm, was only rating I could find, listed for the plugs vs car, anyone know if this is right or wrong?

Cheers John, will see if can find either when next plugged in.

Thanks John. How would I do the 'zero point calibration' and 'linear solenoid entering calibration' via techstream?

Lovely thanks John. Was hopefully tracking may be the cause (as only one that makes sense given the circumstance) but knowing my luck of late... Will try to find a recommended place, as used a few and not been happy with them at all. One place told me that my steering wheel needed to come off and be put back on again to straighten it out. Tried to explain that's not right, and they got quiet defensive lol. Will rest a touch easier now, so thanks for confirming your thoughts. Cheers,

So having driven the car a bit now, there is something wrong at the front since changing the ball joints. When turning right sharply, ie moving out my parking space, it feels like the front is slipping, jumping kind of judder. As if the tyre isn't in full contact and only party touching ground and is slipping out sideways vs following the true steering path. It's a stutter, jump by jump, type thing, not constant, as if pressure building, tyre slips, is ok, pressure builds again, then jumps again repeating .5 to 1s ish. Like a very strong camber if you get my drift, when on near full lock. It's also not as solid or steady on the road. I'm going to recheck the 8 bolts are tourqued to spec (i did torque them properly as per your specs John, both hub/knuckle bolts to higher figure, can't recall now, and the 2 castle nuts to 26 or something quite lower), but wonder what else it could be? Ball joints crap? (Used bluepoint I think) I've knackard something else (not a clue what though) Or could it be down to the tracking/alignment stuff, assume this would address any camber issues? as I've not had it done yet? If so, what do I need to ask for when seeking a shop, tracking, alignment, camber check etc? Cheers all, this is turning into a headache. Car was fine, no issues at all with the old joints, except failing mot, now new balls and it's gone to pot (not to mention new shocks that made no difference whatsoever lol)

Bluetooth memory remained intact, turned on my phone bt and auto connected no issues. Battery had been of Friday for exhaust and then several hours on Sat and then again Sun.

Wow, at that price I'd not care if they only lasted 20k. Heck of a lot cheaper than the 290 each I put on my car yesterday! It's almost 1/5 the price, so that's 100k worst case scenario per one pair for the 450h, and nice new suspension through the life lol Sorry can't help with part numbers, but, all mice checked out on mylparts.com so perhaps that can help confirm or correct.

The rubber things or the caliper?

Thanks John, I'll save redoing the rubber tops then, result lol. I'll be on to big red, no worries there. Your instructions were spot on. I noted the bit about the nut and bolt, and to be honest, I normally turn the bolt, vs nut anyway, they were just stuck in there as had swollen with rust, especially on the unused threads. I did not though that the rear slide pin rubbers are both broken, badly. Thankfully, the grease in there was still present and albeit a bit grungy, they were saved, but I do need to get new ones. Anyone know where or what I'm looking for? Part pics I've found don't show them!

No trouble. Disks were stuck to hub, why do folks not put anticeise on?, so had to hit them off with lump hammer and wood, but the brakes didn't catch at all, didn't need to use the adjuster. However, the rear disks were not old, not worn much at all, so there was no lip to catch on etc. Yeah, doh with bits. Hopefully John will say it doesnt matter and I can sleep easy. Don't fancy taking them out again to that one bit lol.

So rear shocks changed and the old one must not have been bad, as made no difference lol, expensive fix for an mot sheet and no improvement lol. I did balls up though, didn't fit the next rubber bits at top. Were in bottom of box and didn't see until done. I reused the existing ones (the black rubber bits that sit on top of the yellow thing on top of the strut). Will this be ok, or should I take them off again to refit those bits? John your instructions were spot on. I printed them and referred to them for first one, but after that all ok. Thank you for providing them and the torque settings, very much appreciated. I however didn't have the same ease you reported. The lower shock bolt and the lower bolt between arm and hub had been put on by the hulk. It broke my 2 foot breaker (not far off new, not knackard with use) and went a long way toward almost breaking my 4 ft breaker. They were very corroded, took me half hour per bolt to get them usable again (they are still sturdy, it was just surface etc, but was proper blocked in etc). My suggestion for others doing this is to get some spare bolts just in case they are like mine. Changed the rear disks and pads whilst at it, and gave calipers, hub and wheels a good clean up, on the mating surfaces. Amazes me that shops just put wheels on with all the crap on the hub etc, and wonder why breaks shudder and the like. Now to sort the ceased front caliper, then change front disks and pads and that should be mot ready. Plus a full service, then should be good to go. Thanks again for the help John, been a star, yet again!

Will check that out and report back John. The y piece was 120, is clamped to the single existing piece at front (bottom of the y) and then has flanges for both the rear exhaust joints. Yeah, 1 of 4 fails sorted. Thanks for the input and help.

Thanks John, have emailed them as nothing comes up on line when searching for parts. Thanks the plan Lee just struggling to find one at reasonable price. Why places stock nearside but can't even order offside baffles me.