Upex

My money is on that switch, just as Farqui says. Braking very quick can also lodge crap between plunger and it's recess, thus trapping the plunger in the retracted position and thus leaving the lights on. I'm not sure though if the light circuit is powered when car off and shut, powered down completely though. If they are, then above still works. If not, then I suspect a short somewhere, allowing power from another circuit to flow through the brake circuit even if switch is not pressed. Start with the switch though, much easier lol

Many thanks John, that's very kind of you. But I think should be ok. The folks at Nippon have been helpful and offered me a good deal as I'm looking to buy both shocks, track rod ends and other stuff. Recommend them thus far if anyone needs bits. I assume the numbers are easy to see then? As would like to check what she's on before ordering. Cheers

I'm pretty convinced that issue is the abs pump Mark, also backed up by a low accumulator error code, my only code now since tpms fixed itself.

Thanks John, when you say extra, do you mean 2 12v batteries would be in boot?

How can i check correct part number for the shock? Nippon auto spares (found from another suspension thread) list 2 at cheaper than Lexus with gold club discount, at 250 each. One part is 48530-80454 and the other 48530-80356, both state they applied during 2006! Assume 1 was for the active roll bar stuff in spare wheel well version, whilst other without, which is the one I need, I think, not looked for that roll bar stuff yet, but doubt she has it as I believe was quiet rare.

Saw and edited but we crossed posts lol.

If it's knocking stationary, then it has to be suspension or metal object contact, so I'd be checking that corner for every bush, joint, mounting point and metallic part that could be touching. Calipers, stone guard, suspension strut etc. When bouncing car stationary, is it a knock or grinding noise? Get a pry bar on everything and check for slack, and also check if still does it under braking and in reverse to.

If you pay upfront, you've paid 7k more for definite and may still need to pay more for repairs and maintenance. 100k isn't 10k, it's not new after all and has been used. If you buy cheaper, you might have to pay for repairs, but the chance is less than 100%. That money can go to the warranty, and preventative maintenance and could possibly mean more hassle free driving than the more expensive one. Imagine if it didn't go wrong anymore than the 100k one, your 1/3 Better off. One that's been used more and serviced and looked after, could well offer the better deal. Personally, I'd buy higher mileage, well looked after, used and cared for over potentially stood longer, doing shorter journeys and rusting from the inside all day long, especially when it leaves a good chunk of cash in the bank but buys you the same thing (to all intense purposes), not to mention if it did blow up etc, your less down the drain than the more expensive one hitting the dust.

Cheers John, will give them a buzz as part of my prep. Thanks

Mark, is the knock steady in pace, how quick, speed related variance, only knocks below or over certain speed, still knocks when stationary, knocking at all drive angles, ie straight ahead, turning one way or the other, only over bumps, going forward and back, does it get worse or better with greater steering angles, does it stay, go, get worse or better when braking and or sterring angle? Need some more to go on before can start guessing really. Have touched for anything lose underneath and around engine and suspension, ie are strut mounts tight, suspension joints showing any play, bushes ok etc. John, I think all cars can be as bad as each other. I have issues with the Lexus, don't get me wrong, but nothing compared to the wife's x5 that's same age, less miles. We got the car, was brilliant for 6 weeks, then issues. Spent 1500 on it, without any labour as done it all myself and still not fixed. Ive nearly given up as all the next things are mega books. Two local garages, a Bmw indie and bmw main, despite taking hundreds off me, haven't a clue. Bmw dealer told me to buy another car in the end, it's too old for us to fix, as we can't diagnose anything without the right sensors say of the last 4 or 5 years, after that the tech has moved on and we can't help much. It also needs suspension strut, at 130k and other bits and bobs, My Lexus, needs a strut and exhaust after 148k, I'd take this Lexus over the x5, but the next person issues might be the total opposite. In the end, it's down to that individual car, individual component, conditions, etc etc etc I think. You pays your money and takes your chances. Still I'd rather have the older better cars for less money than a new cheap plastic one, which still suffers failures, just have a warranty.

Thanks both. Will change both, something appeals to doing stuff in pairs, and as not expensive, makes sense. I'll be changing tyres as soon as getting low, not a fan of whatever crap is on her now, there a bit of life left so going to run them down before changing. Should I wait for the new tyres to do tracking, or do tracking soon as after track rod ends? Not sure of the damage it can do not doing after the ends, or of the additional benefit of doing with new tyres. Called Lexus today, rear shocks 305 each, ouch, but can have 15% of for being registered member here (gold I presume) so off to find joining instructions. 10% of the track rod ends to, so like 41 quid lol. I'm not ordering yet, so if you can find that detail John, I can check with them to. Thanks.

Thought about coil overs, but want to retain the variable avs or whatever it's called, the suspension buttton functionality. Didn't realise that the ones about might not retain the adjustability. Guess that's what they mean by without stabilisation, I thought that was the gubbings in spare wheel well with another acronym they were referring to. Darn it. Best ring Lexus! Thanks for heads up on the track rod end, will tackle this myself, have a bid hammer and like using it 😁. Know to count turns off and replace same on, but will the front then need aligning after it's replaced? Should I replace both track rod ends, or just the bust one? I'm fitting new disks and pads, so I'll be on the other side anyway, but unsure if recommended to change in pairs?

Cheers John that's much appreciated, will be doing diy then. Does shock need to be Lexus, as found other floating about, and if known to fail, but easy to replace, I'm thinking buy cheap and not be arsed about fixing again in 50k, ie found them in stock at 150 each, vs the 400 folks mention for Lexus (I've not called Lexus as still in a mood with them over declined warranty and appealing service, but have calmed down and sticking with car now vs swapping back to merc lol, just had a few sore days)

Hi all, been looking about and doesn't seem to be a lot of option for new rear shocks. Found some, but wonder what price they be around so I'm not over paying. Is replacing the rear shocks an ok diy job, or does the hybrid stuff make it a garage job? There options for with, or with out stabilising suspension, or something like that. I assume this refers to the active stabilisation stuff, that throws a hole host of pump and stuff under the spare wheel, thus if my wheel well empty, I need without suspension? I also need to change the offside track rod end. Again, is there any complications due to the hybrid stuff, or is it a normal job? Never touched suspension or steering bits before, but willing to try. Should the track rod ends be replaced in pairs, or just that which is gone? Any tools I need to get, like will I need a pickle fork or ball joint operator to push out a joint? Anything else I need to know about the suspension or track rod end jobs to avoid any headaches? Assume I'll need a full alignment after both jobs done? Cheers all, marginally unnerved as new areas for me, but we all had to learn at some point eh. So hopefully this is my time!

Lol, so no dash light then... suppose the darkness is sign of bulb out to lol. Clearly we shouldn't need them, and should know our cars enough to know before these lights are needed, but, still baffles me that they didn't bother. Anyhow, failed mot, brakes as expected, but also track rod end (offside), rear shock (nearside) and exhaust, where apparently the y piece is almost split in 2. £1,500 quote, great!

I'm planning on fitting Marshall mu11. Far cheaper than the names mentioned, but I've been really I pressed given the price. Tried them as was in a financial pinch, and wow, pretty good. Since then ive fitted to all our cars, 307, slk, s class, range rover, x5, alfa gt, and soon to be the gs. Might not last as long, but had some in the high teens with plenty of life left when car sold etc. Good in dry, pretty reasonable in the wet, fairly quiet, and at half the price, I can change twice as often meaning the rubber is newer and less aged, meaning better performance across the board vs better older harder tyres. Also means I don't worry about lighting up the rears when giving it the beans.... joy! Know lots won't try lower named tyres, I was one of them u til about 4 years ago, but I'm glad I did it now.

So, wonder if these cars (particularly the early gs 450h) have warning indicators for bulb out and brake pad wear? Reason I ask, heard a bit of scratching from front offside wheel, so wanted to have a look before her mot and the brake pads are literally .3mm off being just a backing plate, way way too low, but no warnings at all. I didn't get chance to check all round, so wonder if there are pad wear sensors, just one one wheel, or none at all. I'd normally stay on top of such things, but been snowed under with long projects this last several months, but regardless, seems odd to not provide any warning. Likewise, I had a main beam bulb blow, and no bulb out warnings either. Should there be? Seems strange for what is a pretty loaded car (tech wise, and weight to be honest but thats irrelevant) to be missing such basic driver warnings....

That pic looks to me that the fuse has been added with a maximum cable of 6mm2 csa, so if it's rated at 50 amp, it's doing well. My betting, the crimp and or cable will blow far before a 175 amp fuse! If it were me, I'd be changing that out sooner than later. Likely to not see that current, but it has fire risk all over it to me.

175 amp is a lot, should it be that big? Or is the normally fitted link lower in capacity? Regardless, that wire doesn't look man enough to take 170amp, unless the sizes deceiving in the pic!

That's all I could suggest if everything seems fine functionality wise. Switches only have a finite life, and perhaps it's had it's. If you can get it out, you can test it and check for a bad connection etc. It'd be my first go, as if confirmed duff or good, least your heading on the right path then

Ill never visit my dealer again following worst treatment I've ever had. Cost them major service and abs pump (expensive) replacement, but hey, what can you do. If it must be them, check local opinions. If poor, take a day and drive to another dealer with better feels out there. If any say you should.... it means you don't have to. Just say thanks, I'll have to wait till next payday, will give you a buzz and off you go.

Tried all sorts of right foot application, and yes, I don't hang about, but equally don't thrash everywhere. Following tips from users here, I was able to see 32 on dash, but that was driving very gently, too much so etc, but having tried everything, I'm no where near others and I have no hills and mainly dual carriageway on my commute. Read somewhere of a similar issue (plus others) and chap had Lexus update some software and his mpg jumped right up and car used else more. I think I have same issues, as else kicks off very early most the time, but now and again I can get to 25 / 30 etc before engine kicks in. No pattern, it's very random, only vague pattern I've picked up is she mostly has the odd good ele sections when cold / cool and is eager with the engine when hot. This one isnt the right foot, ive been as gentle as possible and engine can still kick in at 5mph when on flat or even slightly down hill! Blooming thing, but still love it!

Hmm, I'm getting 30 on dash, normally high twenties, something is amiss I fear....

Anyone ever turbo or supercharge a vs hybrid, or does the di and else stuff get in the way and make it much more of a chore? Be interested yo see what power gains could be had, especially from a charger, if possible of course.

In line fuse is a must, or circuit breaker button type. If using the letter, you can trip it to turn the socket off when not in use, and then reset it when wanting to use the socket. Put the fuse, breaker, as close to battery as possible and make sure all connections are tight and secure and covered. Do all that and it's perfectly fine to wire to battery. This keeps cable length down, less voltage drop/current draw, so easier on the wire and less to put in car that could snag etc at later date. You can get lots with different type of holder, so for less than a tenner, you can have a great set up.