Barry14UK

My daughter has a Sorrento with which she is happy, although this is their top model albeit a diesel, but even so it seems a couple of leagues lower than than the RX when you go from one to the other. What a very nice car yours looks. Somebody is going to be very lucky. Hope you enjoy your new car and look forward to reading about your experience with it. I will go BEV next time but only after they have been out a few years and with the solid state batteries that are currently developed by Toyota and some others.

Well you have to remember your car was expensive to start with and at some point Lexus had to order some new parts which with inflation would now cost more and all the time parts are on the shelf it is money tied up. There comes a time when gradually demand for the parts falls away so a manufacturer begins to drop parts which are comparatively rarely asked for. Of course a mechanic doing work now is going to charge the same for fitting parts to an old or very old car. The cumulative cost is therefore very high. Also a search may have to be made for used parts where new parts are no longer available or considered too expensive. Sad when you are forced to pay up or dispose of at best but 20 years is a pretty long life for a car. My granddaughter has a small 2001 Ford which was a cheap car to start with and they were so common that when she needed a replacement tailgate last year a breaker gave her the choice of 4.

Thank you Herbie, I was unaware of the restriction no doubt as I am a Gold Member.

You can edit your own post by clicking on the 3 dots at top right of your post and then pressing edit which enables you to do so. What I have not found a way of doing on this forum is to be able to completely withdraw a post without leaving an indication I had made one. I am not sure of the system on your car but any leaks could mean air is introduced which might be cause of vibration. I remember changing the oil on my old V6 2.5 Camry which had a conventional power steering system. On this to the best of my memory, I had to jack the front wheels off the ground and turn steering several times from lock to opposite lock to remove air out the system. I don't remember if the car had to be running or not (it was back in the late nineteen eighties) but most likely with engine running). I did the job according to Toyota workshop manual and it worked fine afterwards.

I believe the quoted 317miles is for the single engine version of the bZ4x. Unfortunately, it comes with those hideous black wheel arch extensions which I suppose could be covered with a wrap. As reviewers have said, these extensions have been 'toned back' on the RZ.

Hope a good and speedy job is made of repairing your car. It's particularly upsetting when you have taken care and car it so new. What is also irritating is that although you were not at fault, by some strange logic, Insurers consider you are more likely to be involved in another accident and thereby pose a higher risk!

I would have thought that is a rather small mileage for the driveshaft needing to be replaced. especially if boots still in good condition with no indication of grease escaping. I remember doing this job on my V6 2.5l Camry many years ago, with much higher mileage although I sent away for overhaul but removed and reinstalled myself. I would be very careful about fitting driveshaft from a later car and first seek confirmation from Lexus that numbers tie up. Reverting to the Camry, I also had a click which a local Toyota outlet failed to find the cause of. It was more pronounced on pretty heavy lock. I remembered I had had new rubber bushes fitted to antiroll bar and possibly elsewhere up front. I jacked up the front and found that the garage that had fitted these new bushes had not tightened them properly, so there was movement and that was responsible for the clicks. So recommend a good check for any movement.

Certainly not the way to seek help by a new member who has contributed nothing to the forum.

Very useful post Herbie.

I am not familiar with the wheel nuts on your Lexus but on my RX there is a multi pointed wavy star. The key is quite large but also has an internal multi star that mates with the wheel nuts. You might have to keep trying until the 'key' engages. When this has engaged you just use a socket or the tool provided to tighten or untighten the nut via the key. If all the stars on locking wheel nuts were the same on other cars it would be possible for anybody with a Lexus key to remove the wheels of any other model. So just turn your wheel nut gradually until it fully mates. If it doesn't engage at some point, you have the wrong key (assuming yours is similar. Wheel nuts on some cars require a key to undo a lock, which enables a spinning part to be removed to give access to the part you put your socket on.

I am surprised that the pull does not occur until you reach such high speeds but if you have tried alternative Tyres/wheels on all 4 wheels, it seems likely that the problem is somewhere with rest of the car. A very full check should be made to ensure that toe, cast and camber are all correct. I don't know your model but some cars have some adjustments affecting rear wheels and wrong settings can affect pulling to one side. When on flat is the gap between the top of the tyre and the underside of the wing the same on both front pair and the back pair? As speed increases the car is having to work go harder through an air dam, therefore greater pressure exerted on suspension so any slight slack on nearside would mean that being pushed back more increasingly affecting steering. Assume front wheels in particular freely rotate equally, in other words one side not causing slightly more drag. Possible misalignment due to accident damage also a possibility as previous post suggested might be the cause.

Correct. Aftermarket HIDS puts it outside type approval in UK and MOT testers now have to pay more attention to lights. There were many aftermarket HIDS wrongly fitted in inappropriate headlamps that were causing dazzle to oncoming drivers due to 'scatter' and non having constantly adjustable motorised headlights. It might technically be possible to do this by fitting headlight washers, headlights of the correct type and other parts as originally fitted for originally equipped cars but it would be enormously expensive unless parts sourced from breakers and highly competent electrician to wire up. I know this because I did it on my BMW but was helped by retrofitting instruction disc from BMW and all the necessary parts from ebay and an electrician who said he wouldn't want to do another one! The car already had headlamp washers which helped. The genuine xenons on dipped make a really big difference.

I also bought both front wipers (Denso as originally fitted by Lexus) from Euro car parts which were on offer. and work well. They seem to have almost permanent sales of parts but discount can vary. Worth a call to establish price and availability.

Cost me around 2K mark to have the 2 front air shocks replaced by Lexus Cheltenham in low forty thousand mileage. Mind you I don't know how the original lady owner drove it but I doubt hard in view of the use made most probably of children operating screens for games or whatever judging by wear on remote for system. However, Lexus agreed that need to replace the air shocks at such low mileage was exceptional and allowed a small contribution towards cost on understanding that I took out a two year extended warranty. I note that air suspension has been dropped on the 4th Generation and one wonders whether the advantage over standard spring shocks makes insignificant difference or because the air system caused too many problems, although some have been OK for well over 100K miles. My advice would be to try to get a drive in cars using both types of suspension and then consider if the difference in ride made the potential cost of replacement worthwhile. I would also mention that the compressor for the air suspension is also expensive if this needs replacement. Several members on older cars have changed to less expensive conventional springs rather than replace air shocks when problems experienced.

Can't understand why anybody is so concerned about setting CC so precisely that they only just want to slowly pass somebody at a precise speed in 1 MPH increments. If I am about to overtake a car which is doing say 54 mph in 60mph limit I would like to do it swiftly using accelerator and then pull in front of him or her when at a safe distance past before allowing CC to automatically take over again. I know my car speedo and HUD read 2-3mph faster than true anyway, as is the case with most cars using standard properly inflated tyres. If the person in front of me is cruising any faster than 54mph I would usually stay behind them in a 60 zone Incidentally, I have noticed that as I drive down fairly steep hills, of which there are many i Devon, speed can exceed that set for the CC so it is sometimes necessary to lightly apply the brakes. The radar CC may work differently in this respect. Just another stereotype!

I don't agree with that last sentence. Politicians may be the same like industrialists, but there are far more cars on the road than 10 years ago. I observe this locally in the number of parked cars near me and in other places I visit and congestion. Increasingly both partners in a relationship have a car and as soon as their children are old enough, many of them get cars too. The foregoing applies to one of my two daughters and the other in all respects other than she does not currently have a partner living with her. Also, just look at the way more people have cars in developing countries, so the demand for fuel increases worldwide and with it the cost and amount of pollution. Also, whenever I use certain roads I am surprised at the number of lorries also making an impact. Pollution from vehicles is a significant contributor to pollution and in my view it is right for Governments to incentivise the use of less polluting vehicles and aircraft, also to encourage other industries to be more efficient and less polluting. People love the convenience of their cars so particularly away from large towns, bus services become less used resulting in reduced or in some cases non existent bus services. This in turn leads to more people relying on private cars. While it can be argued that BEV's only put much of the pollution elsewhere, it makes sense to reduce pollution in busy areas where it is high and adversely affects health. Actually, the Government has been quite successful in getting people not to start or to give up smoking, even though reduced sales means less tax despite higher tax rates. So campaigns can work. Of course I am going to complain about the escalating cost of fuel which was bound to happen with increasing demand and sanctions against Russia. But the Government have to raise sufficient money so we begin to pay our way and begin to reduce the debt much increased by borrowing during the pandemic. It will be interesting to see when most people are driving non ICE cars how lost tax on these will be recovered. I

You did not say whether you are considering moving to a 4th Generation, 2nd or 3rd Generation, the earlier cars being slightly smaller, the main reason I am keeping mine. It is one of the most comfortable cars I have ever owned, almost as fuel efficient as the 4th Generation iteration and would be considerably less expensive to purchase. Fuel comparison apart, both generation have similar acceleration which is adequate for this type of car and normal everyday. The new version of the RX will only have a 4 cylinder engine, which is one reason why some owners will want to hang onto existing cars. I have driven an NX and it is a nice car but somehow the 2nd and 3rd Generation feel more upmarket. I would expect the NX would be less expensive to run and service. You really need to try the RX and decide for yourself!

Brake pads are a compromise. The primary requirement is that you want them to slow or stop the car in a reasonable distance for normal use. For hard or track use you need need a pad that will stand up better to fade but will require greater foot pressure and may need a few hard retardations to stow. Then drivers don't like overmuch brake dust, although the ones that do tend to wear quickly too but retard well, at least in normal use. Then some will last longer but sometimes at the expense of greater wear on the discs. Some pads produce more noise. Better pads can use more expensive materials. Manufacturers fit pads that they consider meet conflicting requirements best for normal use. Certainly, there are pads that perform differently but as you move away from standard, you find they tend to perform less satisfactorily in another respect. The pads currently fitted on my BMW groan a little with light pressure as I slow just before stopping under light pressure. They will also groan and creak if very light pressure is applied to them along together with very light throttle. They don't do this at a hard stop or on hard acceleration. My thinking is that this noise is caused by very slight movement in the mechanism caused at slow revolutions as pads grip and slip. It doesn't happen so much under more heavy braking when the pressure on the pads continuously takes up all the movement. You can observe this more easily by looking at an old brake calliper on a bicycle. Another way is to run your finger lightly over a piece of wood. (Just done it on a coffee table). Done very lightly, the finger just slides along but increase the pressure while moving slowly and the finger moves in little jerks due to slight flexing of skin. However, if you maintain pressure but move your finger very quickly, it will move across the wood without jerking because the free movement with intermittent varying grip has been permanently taken up. The pads work in a similar way but the vibration will vary with material on brake and disc with flexing and pulsing. Subject to wear, I would expect identical models equipped with the same pad and disc material to vibrate in a very similar way.

I don't work for anybody - long retired and never worked in anyway connected with motor industry or associated products. Had many old cars so no stranger to dealers stores for various spare parts. Just speak as I find. Sometimes people can have different experiences with same dealer. Aspersions were recently cast on a dealer in another thread by somebody, whereas another reported a good experience with that dealer.

How crazy it is that when you sign up to renew your insurance shortly before due, it can make a considerable difference according to the days left before you sign up. So this is yet another variable. It seems like insurers are trying to make it more difficult and more hassle to compare quotes. I would like them to be obliged to give a figure that would apply anytime up to a month before due, just like many builders hold their price for a month or whatever. Of course any accident or material changes before the policy actually starts, would still be taken into account before due date.

Your battery will be the same size and type as mine as it has not been replaced since new, that is a 51Ah Panasonic VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery of AGM type. That means the battery acid is absorbed in a glass mat rather than being free to slosh around freely. The AGM batteries are more expensive than the free flowing ones, the main reason being because in the event of a serious accident acid will be retained and not spill on the car occupants. If you want a plug and play type of replacement you are limited to the original Panasonic, which seems only available from franchised dealers including Parts Direct, or a Yuasa version now made which is also expensive. However, if you accept the very small risk of acid spill as mentioned above, it is possible to fit a free flow lead acid alternative that is less expensive and with more brand choice. Furthermore, these can be of higher Ah. I wanted to retain an AGM type of battery that was less expensive than the dealer replacement, was higher Ah, and was of a type that was readily available. I achieved this by buying a Halfords (Yuasa) AGM one which has a 5 year warranty, ie 4 years longer than the Lexus Panasonic but it did mean cutting the plastic battery base ends to accommodate the extra battery length. As I wanted to retain the original battery earth strap, it did mean buying another terminal and making two distance pieces so the existing battery hold down strap can be retained. I did post details with pics which I will find and link to if anybody is seriously interested. The replacement battery I fitted is 60A and is a size made by other brands. Be aware that every time you let your 12v battery go near flat, it will reduce its life. If you do go with an AMG battery, the charger you buy should be set on AGM charging mode and be of a type that charges at 5amps maximum. I use the model mentioned earlier in this thread.

There was someone on here a few weeks back looking for a car of this sort of vintage, so if he has not got fixed up yet, let's hope he says yours. Always nice to keep a car within the club. I thought the Premier was not available with the pan roof, so something I have learnt. Would be interesting if you would say how your new NX compares with your RX in due course.

In the UK and in some other countries, Governments are incentivising purchase of BEV with rapid uptake by buyers. Whether, demand will outstrip supply to the same extent in the long term is unquantifiable, particularly with China intending to expand makes into Europe. For the present BEV's are selling at high prices, even used ones. However, t will not be very long before Toyota and others are marketing solid state batteries with much quicker charging times and longer range. It seems to me when this happens, it will cause a hefty fall in the value of presently equipped battery models. Although Toyota say solid state batteries will go in hybrids first, they are bound to respond if others introduce BEV's using this technology. https://uk.motor1.com/news/559246/toyota-solidstate-battery-production-2025/

Here is an interesting video by 'Scotty' on rare earth metals where China holds an advantage. also shown here some of the Chinese produced cars with Norway being an early recipient so a major shake up coming. Note one system uses battery that will not ignite even with nail driven into it.

The little dry powder extinguisher in my car likely not to be of much help then!