Barry14UK

I suspect it will not be long before a driver finds him/herself having to defend what is an unreasonable action of a cyclist or pedestrian that precipitated an accident. As well as likely increase in journey times cause by motorists having to give way whenever a pedestrian decides to step out, this is going to result in more pollution.

I don't know how or if this is factored in but by 10-12 years it seems likely that a new battery will be required as performance of original will have reduced considerably by then in BEV vehicles. This is going to be a major cost (even if battery technology improves) and with further ungreen implications. On the other hand, setting aside parts common to BEV and ICE, many of the latter will still be in use beyond 12 years with maybe a few minor parts for the engine and transmission and replacement of much less expensive 12v battery. So what I am saying is that one shouldn't just consider the life of a BEV battery but the whole cost in financial and green terms over the life of the car which could be much longer, (as in my 21 year old E39 BMW) for example.

If a small car like the UX does all you require and you find it sufficiently comfortable, I appreciate that it is unnecessary to have a larger one which can make parking more difficult, cost more to start with, run and insure and suffer greater relative depreciation. However, apart from the Morris 1000 I bought to learn to drive in (showing my age here!). all my subsequent cars, and there have been many, all previously owned, have been appreciably larger. I found this helpful early on when I conveyed a lot of building materials and camping gear even with a roof rack piled high. In my experience larger cars are more comfortable and I have got accustomed to this. Also, I now have back pain and am less supple with a large and heavy frame. I can forgo the sharper handling of a smaller car for the comfort of a larger one, especially for the long journeys I occasionally make. However, I wouldn't want anything larger than my 3rd generation RX450h, so would resist the temptation to change to the 4th generation. So we may all have particular and different reasons for our choice and priorities can change over the years.

One of the problems at present is that either the public chargers are a different type, to what you need, are out of service when you get there, or maybe others are queuing to charge. This means you might well have to use some of your almost expended energy going somewhere else. So rather than risk losing all power, you need to find a charging point much earlier, thereby shortening range. So having more battery capacity provides greater confidence. By contrast, this recent petrol panic buying apart, you know there are a multitude of petrol stations and in the event of one running dry, there is usually another just a few miles away. It is going to take time for the situation to change because there has been a surge in the uptake of BEV vehicles with more drivers seeking out charging points and there needs to be universal chargers and payment scheme, perhaps Tesla excepted as they have led the way for Tesla owners establishing their own network previously.

Did you notice how slowly the Tesla was going and how quickly it was passed so what would that translate to in normal use? Actually, Tesla are having to up their game as the Lucid Air with a range of 520 miles is said to go further on a single charge than any current Tesla offering. https://news.sky.com/story/lucid-air-dream-edition-electric-car-goes-into-production-in-us-with-a-520-mile-range-12425989

Also, looks from video to have excess vibration. Just as well Lexus will have to pay for remedial work. I would want to know what Lexus find and what they have done to rectify, (You don't want any further problems coming to light in the future that may be due to present problem), so seek assurance on this. I would also give it a long test before you accept it back. Assume you will be given a loan vehicle while this is sorted.

Is it also advisable to disconnect the 12v battery prior to welding have you established?

In a good engine a compression test should show a very similar good figure for each cylinder. testing each individual cylinder, one after the other. This is done by removing a spark plug and either screwing what looks like a large tyre pressure gauge in place or the end of spark plug or the end of a connector of compression gauge. The engine is then uniformly turned over either manually or electrically to obtain figurers. I have done this a number of times. If figure is lower in one cylinder it denotes one of several faults which will include defective head gasket, erosion of head material to water way or crack. This is less likely these days, although I have experienced it in the past and needed a second hand head cylinder head. But head gaskets do fail as one did on a Camry I once had which also caused water to overheat and overflow out of header tank. Pressure test on cooling system by radiator might also be helpful if build up of water in exhaust system can be excluded.

Suggest you remove oil filler cap and check there is no evidence of water mixed with oil on underside. Could you do a compression test on each cylinder? Sometimes a crack can close up as engine becomes hot. Hope it's not that or head gasket.

I have a 21 year old E39 petrol BMW which has quite a heavy draw on the battery so I fitted the larger size diesel battery but only use car very occasionally. I therefore use a 'Disconnect'* interposed between the battery negative terminal and negative lead. It only requires a couple of turns on the 'Disconnect' to reconnect and only means resetting the clock which I don't bother to do. It does mean the benefit of the alarm is lost while the battery is disconnected but any thief would have to break the door lock, the ignition and boot lock plus fit a charged battery. I then only have to very occasionally to bring the battery up to full charge using a trickle charger. Unfortunately, disconnecting the battery on my Lexus in this way would cause more problems so is probably not practical on more modern cars. * This sort of thing, https://www.amazon.co.uk/CZC-AUTO-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicles/dp/B08C2WK32N/ref=sr_1_8?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Car%2BBattery%2BSwitches&qid=1642461951&s=automotive&sr=1-8&ts_id=4919955031&th=1

Bosch is widely sold in UK and certainly a very good brand as it Varta, part of same company now. Yuasa also have a very good reputation. However, you can read stories of any of the 3 mentioned failing prematurely occasionally. Batteries need to be tested beyond voltage to establish if they are good with load tester and analyser and it is not clear whether this was done by Halfords, Also, batteries are supplied in various qualities by manufacturers and you need one appropriate to your application. If you don't have an analyser you could get this done independently and if battery is faulty get a replacement under warranty. This assumes battery has not been allowed to discharge to the extent that it has sulfated. I have used batteries from the three named (amongst others) on cars and additionally Yuasa on motor cycles, where they are probably used more than any other, all without problem for reasonable duration. PS. I currently have a Halfords (Yuasa) AGM battery in my RX450h.

This year the Lexus RZ 450e BEV is due to come onto the market based on the underpinnings of the Toyota BZ4x and Subaru Solterra. It is postulated that the RZ will have a larger battery and better acceleration, as well as a more upmarket feel. This may well take some of the sales away from the RX.

Overtightening oil filter is a mistake DIY people with little experience make, not realizing the rubber seal expands and will make it much more difficult to remove. The casing of the filter is quite thin and in some cases in removing even proper tools may cause it to distort. I had this once and not wanting to use heat removed much of the casing with a sharp old chisel. this enabled me to carefully drift the thicker screw plate. Once it moves a few degrees it's easy to remove. If this had not worked, I would then have made a tool somewhat like an angle grinder key so the projecting pegs would engage with the oil holes in the base plate of the filter.

Beautiful and well built cars. I doubt you will see the quality and finish again.

The Genesis GRV 80 referred to earlier in this thread looks to be a very nice tool but it is interesting that like Volvo in XC 90 have gone for 4 cylinder in their Petrol, although Genesis is offering a straight 6 alternative diesel. Genesis starting price for the 2.5 turbo petrol is £56715 and £56815 for the diesel but neither is hybrid. Not surprised Lexus apparently dropping V6 in next RX to conform with general trend. https://www.genesis.com/uk/en/models/gv80.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAieWOBhCYARIsANcOw0wS0uemrQkXQIfn2AhbOWOTVJhfkhcYDgKN7i2RHrFSf9x9E9PK2ZsaAvWXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Had a somewhat similar situation some years ago on a 2.5 V6 Camry but not necessarily same cause. Here is what happened. Car had overheated due to one of the 2 head gaskets having failed causing cooling system to overflow. Both gaskets replaced by local repairer and off I went onto Motorway to test. Got about 8 miles and oil warning light came on. Topped up with oil although it was not low and light went out and was able to drive off Motorway for short distance before light flickered then came on again. Oil was to high level. Guy who replaced head gaskets retrieved car and dropped sump. Found excess heat had caused hardened oil residue coating bottom of motor to flake off and sump strainer over pump to become almost totally blocked thereby stopping circulation of oil. He took pictures showing strainer and being cleaned with pick and residue in sump. Luckily the car was not driven far with the red warning light on and the strainer and sump having been well cleaned and flushed, the car ran perfectly again thereafter. Car had done about 130K miles at the time.

I have a very light scratch on mine which I can see when light streams at a certain angle but it is on the inside. The original owner was a lady and my guess is she used her hand to clear he screen and a diamond ring caused the scratch - seen this before. I will try the suggested remedy but having spent a very long time using another preparation on the outside scratch of another car unsuccessfully, I am rather sceptical about it working unless the scratch is very superficial. Interested to know how OP gets on.

The one comment for this is not favourable.

Some deliberately accident provoking and brake testing even when in the wrong. I hope dash footage submitted to Police so the drivers could at least be sent a warning. More important to stop idiots like these than motorists doing 2 or 3 mph over speed limit who are sometimes targeted.

If it was me I would check what manual says and see if there is any item inadvertently placed over vents. I would then ring Lexus asap for advice. Car is under warranty and problem should be sorted by Lexus. Ask how far you could use it. There is very high voltage in the area and not something to explore unless you are competent. It seems like whatever activates the cooling fans could be faulty, or blown a fuse/faulty relay or fans seized if not obstructed are some of possibilities. Please let us know what is found to be the problem and how it is resolved.

I am pretty certain Denso are OEM for the RX. I bought mine from Euro Car Parts when they had a meaningful sale on. I say meaningful as they very often offer varying discounts but the price is not always as good as they would have you believe. These blades are still very efficient some 2 years on but have not seen much service due to the pandemic, although have been outside on the car since fitted. I have checked on one of the packets they came in which lists DUR-065R and DUR-O65L as being right and left for RX models 06/09 although also added Hybrid Blad on ones supplied to me, so best you check before ordering. When I top up my reservoir, I take the opportunity to clean the rubbing edges with the windscreen fluid. Any gritty dust on the windscreen is likely to cause wear to the wipers and windscreen so also worth cleaning both as appropriate which of course also ensures maximum visibility.

Guess like a lot of motor addicts I sometimes contemplate with anticipation what my next car might be. Yesterday, I chanced to be passing a Kia dealership in Barnstaple and noticed a low milage Hyundai Ionic 5 parked next to a new Kia Ev6. These cars seem to be the most favoured models in their class at present and indeed have received plaudits from a number of motoring journalists who have tested them in both in the UK and elsewhere. So of course I just had to park up and have a looksee and a brief chat with a salesman. I didn't like the styling of the Ionic 5 with its slab sided panels only broken up slightly by a diagonal crease across the doors with a few lines horizontally along the bottom or the old looking very ordinary shape at the front. Unquestionably, there was a lot of space including a large boot but I didn't like the internal design and thought it looked rather cheap. This is a pity because testers report favourably on it's handling if somewhat dead steering and its comfort. The 4 wheel drive version has a claimed 0-60mph acceleration of 3.5 seconds so very quick and the 2 wheel drive 5 seconds. Furthermore, it has very fast charging and 20,000 mile or 2 year servicing is good as is the 5 year warranty) By comparison, although using the same chassis , the Ev6 is lower and more streamlined with shorter windows and is less room, so perhaps less suited for a family but you get a 7 year warranty). However, the interior did look appreciably better. Neither car had a rear wiper which salesman said was unnecessary due to airflow over screen but I am sceptical about this as unlikely to work when going slow in snow. for instance. Generally, I don't think either car, but particularly the Ionic5, was quite up to Toyota quality. (I am aware that at least one person in this club was opting for the Ev6 but nothing comes up using the search facility so couldn't refer). So in short, I would rule these out for myself before even driving them. However, there is an upmarket version being introduced this year which is built on the same chassis, the GV60 Genesis which is what Lexus is to Toyota. I might well consider this used in a few years time but maybe not comfortable enough. Actually, I like the look of the bZ4X Toyota which is due to be on sale in the UK this year I understand. It's being built in collaboration with Subaru and one would expect it to be class leading. However, it takes twice as long as the Ionic to reach 60mph, has a smaller boot than even the Ev6 and takes longer to charge, so already behind some of the competition as is some of the VW sub brand versions. Well, other BEVs are said to becoming available this year and next. It will take some time to learn how they perform over time. New large battery factories are being built and it is expected the price of batteries, the most costly part of BEVs, will reduce and with it the price of new BEVs which will in turn adversely impact the value of used BEVs. Seems to me best to stay with ICE for a few years and then check as more fast charges could also be available then.

I have had a few near accidents where pedestrians still keying their phones have stepped out into the road without looking and I have anticipated this and either braked or sounded the horn, the latter sometimes drawing a verbal or rude gesture. But unless you drive like a snail, inevitably there will be time when this happens so late that a person stepping out in this way does so unexpectedly and is hit. The chances of this happening are increased by pedestrians not hearing cars in the electric mode, particularly if they are wearing headphones. Is it fair to always put the blame on the motorist in these circumstances?