Barry14UK

Hope other driver booked for careless driving at least. I can empathise with you having been rear ended and then T boned within 2 years! Let's hope a good job is done on your car.

It can be done on button in group control by drivers arm rest on my car which is 2015. I have done this inadvertently a couple of times when using the group of buttons in the area, intending to get into boot but mirrors have swung in and doors locked before I did this, meaning I had to use key fob to unlock and then press appropriate button to cancel self locking. Check the buttons to see if you have this on your model.

Both my E39 BMW and MY RX450h have vent tubes although the former came with free flowing lead acid and the later with AGM (Glass Absorbent Matt) battery. This tube carries away release of excess gas that can be produced under certain conditions and you wouldn't want in your car. So where manufacturers have provided a vent tube, it should be connected to the battery. Suitable batteries usually come with one or sometimes two plugs for transportation. When you install you should remove the most convenient one and attach your vent tube for safety. There is a big difference between a battery being transported and being in use. I found that the vent pipe connection on my RX450h did not fit my after market battery, so I bought a standard connector off ebay, which was very cheap. It came with a short clear plastic tube which was not needed, as I just needed the push fit to battery connector to which I attached the Lexus vent tube.

Herbs is correct. Dimensions mean you can't get the 4th Generation 12v battery into the 3rd Generation battery compartment. The simplest and possibly the cheapest replacement way if you want to stay original as car manufacturers and battery manufacturers recommend, is to buy from 'Lexus Direct'. and get the VRLA AGM one. On the other hand leading companies do a free flow lead acid battery giving 60Ah that can be accommodated in the 3rd Gen battery compartment. These will not be AGM so in the event of a serious crash,, there is the possibility, albeit a small one, that acid from a damaged battery could reach the occupants, (It is avoided in an AGM battery as the acid is absorbed by the glass matt.) There is some debate about whether this is technically best for this car but several people have gone for this cheaper route without reporting problems. There is an alternative I used using another AGM battery which provides 60Ah rather than the original 51Ah, and is less expensive but does involve modification - see my 3 posts of 21st December 2021 in this thread with link to post of 15th July 2021. Incidentally, the Halfords (Yuasa) battery I fitted continues to work well 2 years+ on and i have not needed to trickle charge it, even though only doing some very short runs some weeks..

There is a slight reflection problem at night and I have bought a cowl which I will attach to the TomTom to overcome this after I have modified it. Unfortunately, I am stuck doing building work for the time being due to builder letting me down. So this and some other projects presently on hold.

Hi Nick, I probably over engineered it (but that's typical me!!) It's a bit tight to get this in and difficult to substantially support it due to the changing contours of the dash - unlike my BMW which had an almost flat area that had previously enabled to use the fitting that comes with the GO 6200. It also had to be raised to just clear the top of the door card whilst avoiding the window glass. I also wanted to keep free the horizontal vent on top of the dash. I made my first template out of stiff cardboard that I could easily cut bits off and then knocked up the cradle platform in ply essentially supported on two wooden transverse blocks. which proved it would work. I then made the platform in aluminium and the two transverse supports out of pieces of rectangular aluminium that I screwed to it. I fitted an upright piece of aluminium to the platform onto which an alternative TomTom mount was fitted that the TomTom can be attached to and articulated. Obviously, the flat transverse bars would not sit well on the dash so I shaped black Milliput 2 part epoxy putty to the contours of the dash to the two bearers, (see pic with cradle on it's side). I also used the Milliput to close the open ends of the rectangular bearers. The complete cradle was sprayed black and double sided heavy duty 3M tape secured the bearers to the dash making it very rigid and aligning it with the vertical air vent as seen in pic. Alternative mount https://www.amazon.co.uk/TomTom-Fixed-Installation-Dock-Kit/dp/B01L8PL6E4/ref=asc_df_B01L8PL6E4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310868534774&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1689750910042660895&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006516&hvtargid=pla-565708127435&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 The mount wired into the cars electrical system via removable dash cover at end of dash by auto electrician when he added extra sounders to turn indicators.

If nobody is able to answer your query, I suggest you ring the parts department at your Lexus dealership who should be able to tell you.

Sometimes it's worth paying a bit more than market price to get what you really want. It can be hard to find a Lexus with the colour and trim you want being that there are comparatively few of the marque compared to other makes.

I endorse what Michael has said about the TomTom which I find preferable to using phone or the poor LEXUS ONE. I have the slightly larger model TomTom but with the same advantages. I did make a cradle to support mine and set it at a angle to get it nicely positioned on the dash.

Bit of a surprise that somebody who has worked in bodyshops is using newspaper to mask. Great that you got what you wanted and can easily sort.

A Honda Civic was mentioned as an alternative but even the NX is well above that. An RX would be above Honda CRV yet alone a Civic. A Mitsubishi Outlander could be an alternative, particularly if your Journeys are generally short, although people with a Lexus who have mentioned them on here don't seem very impressed and I understand Mitsubishi have either pulled out of the UK market or are in the process of doing so. Really depends on how high a bar you want to go for

I had this happen many years ago on my Opel Monza. I took it to a local auto electrical firm who replaced the faulty relay with one from a Ford cheaply and promptly. Maybe you can do this yourself but otherwise check your local auto electrical firm if there is a reputable one near you. I think it highly likely it is a faulty relay that is your problem.

I also have a 2015 3rd generation RX 450, I replaced the Dunlops with Cross Climates which improved things in several ways including ride but have to say still not good on poorly maintained roads, My daughter's Sorento is better in this respect but inferior in almost all other ways. I was unlucky with mine in that the 2 front struts needed replacement at around 40K miles, There was knocking from front and excessive movement. Some people do 200-300k miles before this is necessary, so perhaps I was unlucky. Several posters have needed to replace the front top mounts, so you could check these.

Electronics are well out of my area of expertise but it seems to me that allowing a battery to go flat in particular can cause corruption. This is not so bad if there is a definitive procedure for resuming correct operation rather than check this and that and try various things that don't work or not immediately. When disconnected my battery as part of a suggested procedure when I replaced my front brake discs, I had to reset windows and tailgate in the prescribed fashion and also reset radio stations where presets had been lost. However, the sound was not lost. Could it be that the battery was fine before being disconnected in my case so there was no corruption I wonder? Is there a sure way of rectifying problem if this happens?

It should have been a class leader coming so late to the market but isn't. Didn't get off to a good start with the wheels coming off and production delays.

I believe the RX300 ones are shorter in some respects. This was mentioned in a thread some way back if you can find it as the search facility is not great. It might be better if you page back looking for threads on the rails. This is the short manual that came with the new rails I purchased. You will note that it is for cars 2008 onwards up to and including the 3rd Generation for RX350 and 450h. The new bolt heads apart from being longer require a 12mm socket whilst the originals needed a 10mm (despite what is shown in the manual) but thread is the same so although the head is not important the length is. New gaskets were supplied and all parts to do the fitting which also shows parts no longer required. https://www.lexus-tech.eu/aimuploads/{BA599F9A-3318-B5D4-01DB-4E8F926D3318}/RX_Roof_rails_08301_48800_AIM_001_657_0.pdf

Wish you luck in finding, so many have come here looking for these. If successful in your quest, try to obtain the longer bolts that come with the new ones. If good gaskets not provided use good measure of silicon as this is a known entry for water ingress.

That's a fair point, although I suppose you could in need use a one directional tyred wheel the wrong way with care in an emergency to a garage if the puncture was on the different side to the spare in the boot well. They seem to sit in there for a long time without deteriorating as those exposed to light do. Certainly you wouldn't want a spare that will be used rarely, if at all, to dictate the type of tread on the 4 in use wheels. (On my BMW saloon all tyres are the same, there being a wider choice for the application and it did prove useful having the same full sized spare in the boot when I badly damaged one tyre and rim when I hit a snow covered rock some years ago). My conclusion is that what Lexus supply on this model is the best compromise for the UK market and much better than having nothing other than a can of pressurised sealer which will be of no use for a large puncture/tear, as sems to be supplied with cars these days..

Can't speak for earlier models but on third generation RX450h and I believe the fourth generation, it comes as standard with a pre inflated 'saver' tyre/wheel which is thinner and is mounted on a steel rim. From memory the speed is limited to 50mph, the idea being that you get your punctured tyre replaced asap so the space saver is used in an emergency. It may be a full size was offered in some markets but not as standard in the UK. I suppose one could build up the sides of a standard cover to sit on a normal wheel if prepared to lose a little luggage space. This would mean it would easier to carry your punctured normal wheel. It would also mean that you could run your spare at normal speed and enable you to source a replacement tyre in need at your convenience. But you need to purchase a spare size wheel and tyre to do this. Would be interested to learn if you do this.

I note you restore cars and it may be that you would wish to do your servicing. If this is the case and in view of the high cost of replacing the traction battery if ull or in part, you could just have Lexus do a traction battery test (Somewhere around sixty pounds pa, which will guarantee this battery for 12 months each time done upto the number of years Lexus state, 10 or 15 I think I saw a survey once for need for relacing parts. Lexus/Toyota needed fewer replacement (non service parts) than other makes but when parts were needed Lexus/Toyota were the most expensive. I think this is generally true although there are sometimes exceptions. My only criticism of my 3rd Gen car is the poor satnav, otherwise it does all I want. I did find the transmission needed some getting used to as it seems like clutch slip but I am now OK will it. Above all I appreciate the comfort it provides. Let us know if you take the plunge!

I think LV are one of the better companies when it comes to settling claims but for me became unreasonably expensive. I was with them for my E39 BMW and before purchasing my RX450h they gave me a reasonable figure for covering unexpired period of cover on the Beamer. However, notwithstanding there had not been a claim in the interim, on renewal LV pro rata doubled my Premium so they lost my business. There were other insurers who were more competitive but also got excessively expensive. Last year I renewed with AXA through a broker (This was cheaper than going to them direct and included a discount for being a Club Member. I renewed with them again this year in the same way, although the cost was increased considerably but still a lot less than others. I did get the price further shaved by reducing the value of the car from last year. After all, in need AXA are not going to pay over the market value anyway.

Ha ha. Can laugh at it now but most annoying at the time and undoubtedly for neighbours too. I did thoroughly clean the interior and spray liberally with insect killer. Took a couple of days to clear smell but worth it!

One final point which I noted when I submitted my quarterly claim today reads as follows, so ensure your meter reading is on time! "We can only accept, validate and make payment for meter readings submitted within your meter reading month, so please remember to submit your readings on time. It's important to remember that the Feed-in Tariff payment will be made within 90 days of the last day of your meter reading month. If you have any questions on your Feed-in Tariff readings or payments please contact our Green Energy Team at feedintariffs@edfenergy.com."

Yes, the solar meter would have been installed as part of the system some eleven years ago, so I am sure would now be beyond any warranty provided. It seems likely that my daughter will have to pay for a replacement and hopefully will be able to get this done soon as possible as we are now in the most productive period for generating electricity. Incidentally, apart from the panels which have a very long life, the inverter is quite expensive and may need replacing any time onwards now. It seems the monitor my daughter has records from the inverter. I have a very similar system to my daughter's. It was installed by the same firm within a week of hers by the same firm, so this is of potential concern to me. However, I have purchased a device that is fixed to the digital meter and then into a box containing 3, AA batteries and a transmitter which is paired to a monitor in the kitchen. Were it not for this, I would not know whether the solar meter was working as it is in the garage along with the inverter so not convenient to check on. The two types of monitor were offered at extra cost and not everybody would have opted for them or would have chosen the more expensive but less helpful one like my daughter did. (There are doubtless other devices that can be bought nowadays. Not material to the above but of possible interest is that the FIT alone repaid the total cost of our respective systems in 6.75 years, although we did have systems installed before the Government started reducing the FIT on subsequent installations. Then we have benefitted from a lot of our own generated electricity to reduce our electricity bills, with years more of benefit to come.

Hi those those with Solar Panels. Appreciate this is outside the realm of motor subjects, unless you use generated power to fuel your car. However, I thought some here might take a lesson from my daughter's experience regarding quarterly return on FIT and generation to Grid. She has a monitor which enables her to calculate her return and was expecting a good quarter of some £900. But as owners will know, the figures used are as recorded by the meter and neither a separate monitor not the the inverter is accepted. So today she checked the digital meter and found it had hardly moved from the previous reading. So instead of getting the expected nine hundred or so pounds she will only receive about six pounds. She contacted EON who told her they have about two meters a day go faulty so system owners miss lose out, and this is only one energy company. So you need to check this digital meter every day or two to see it is still working (properly). Alternatively, you need a device that records from the digital meter to a handy monitor you can conveniently check.