norkep

Did you remove yours Norkep? How comes if you did? I take it was just temporary? Still got mine on, was only playing around to see the effect but was quite impressed at the way they looked, so left them on. Can hardly see them during the day or at dusk but at night, they come into their own. Not to bright either so not boy-racer-ish, that was also my concern

Had a go a while back using EL Wire Not the best of piccs

Glad you've returned from the dark side Congrads on your new ride young sir

Good Luck with the new job Tony, as discussed, see you soon mate All the best for the future

Yep, my thoughts exactly Thats why I got bass box instead

Noooooo. my *** Andi - Hope you have a speedy recovery mate All my hopes are with you all Have Sent (P/P - P525SEI) Please keep us updated Canter BR Paul

About 08.10 this morning dropping off a youngster to school - Heronshaw, very low, loud exhaust, last spotted heading off to Wavenden from BP roundabout Shinny and looking good in the early morning sun - got my attention Just wondered if anyone on here BR Paul

If it's anything like the ones in the Aristo, you'll need to remove the back seats - both parts (lift the lower part up and remove fixing bolts for the upper), then unscrew and remove the rear shelf cover, this will give you access to the sub. I never replaced mine, just put a sub box instead but think you'll need 12" open-air unit, for the depth - you'll need to measure this from the boot Hope this helps BR Paul

Got it from Ebay

Put me down John, sounds like a cracking W/E

Could make a living from this but down side - I'd be pi$$ed all the time Cheers for the compliments I'm going to re-do the scope - loose the "L" and replace with the "Aristo" Lettering in silver instead but down side - I'd be pi$$ed all the time .......... Sorry lost the plot then for second - WHAT DOWN SIDE You're welcome to join me in MK for a few beers

You'd be surprised at what beer does to me Barry . . . . . . . .nawwwwww only joking - know how your mind works :winky: Was thinking of colour coding the cover aswell, doing it blue may be a bit OTT so thinking met green I'm going to get rid of the "L" on the scope though, may make up an "Aristo" for the scope instead and spray in, just need to deceide on the colour scheme

Had a few crates of beer while doing so - overall a good week end How-ever not sure of the colour I should do the T-Top Engine cover though - open to ideas BR Paul

Hi Leanne, welcome to the LOC Family, good to see the imports growing in numbers. You need to be carefull of a serious bug going round - think they call it the modding bug, I caught it a few years ago and still suffering from it Happy motoring BR Paul

Each part of the gear changes has a solanoid, the solanoid's are controlled by the ECT part of the ECU (I believe), the connectors on these can get very brittle over a period of time. During my G/B rebuild, I had most of the connector replaced due to this problem, never had the reverse problems but did have the first gear shudder. Hope this points you in the right direction in solving the issue BR Paul

Hope you had a great day Pete, Sorry - only just noticed the post Happy Birthday Mate

Joined April 02, same name and car

Fantastic - will have to tune in I think on Fridays

Ok, just checked all the necessary fuses, bulbs and lights and everything seems to be working perfectly well. Also noticed that the light only comes on under 2 circumstances:- 1. Switch on side lights AND press the brake pedal. 2. Switch on headlights. I cant understand why it comes on with the headlights given its the REAR lights its ment to be indicating as out. Can something else in the braking system be causing this aswell? Pads, discs, brake fluid. Maybe being stupid but the obvious has been checked out and is in order. The same thing happened to me a few months ago, strange as it may sound but the problem is with the bulb holder in one of the rear lights on mine, could the same problem your having. On the Aristo all the back lights act as a brake light as well as side lights, on the UK GS, only the outside pair act as a brake/side light, so you may be looking at the outside pair only - the bulbs that have a twin element require a better earthing point, if the bulb holder has rust in the connection, the earth resistance is lower thus bringing the warning light on the dash. I needed to clean and remove all the rust before the warning light went away when I braked with the side lights on. Hope this helps BR Paul

1993 - Done 120K now Still goes like the wind

Click Below for the "How To" MK I GS300 ECU Reset

I had ago a while back with EL Wire, doesn't look to bad, nowhere as bright as the BMW ones but look good at night. Have mine part of the neons My Avatar shows roughly what the EL looks like at night, and Yes, they are blue in colour

Hi Kryz, The instrument panel does stay lite up while the ingination is on, the dimmer knob on the right of the steering wheel only adjusts the instrument lighting level and doesn't affect the bulbs on the front. The bulbs I think are the HB 2006 bulbs, easliy replaced. but not worth replacing with LED's, better off going for the HID Headlight Kits, expensive but worth it. BR Paul

Congrads on your new car, you'll have plenty of fun with her. As for the noise during turning, you may have either a lower or upper ball joint going, common thing to go on these, not a difficult job. You can check by jacking the front up a bit so that the tire is off the road and tugging the top of the tyre carefull and feel/listen for movement Also as the others have mentioned, some piccs of your new lady would be good BR Paul

Hope Jane makes a speedy recovery Baz All the best