AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


rob_clio172

IS300 2JZ-GE NAT #no compromise

Recommended Posts

So time for some more updates, firstly ive just become a gold member 🤘 got to support the club. Ive tried to change my profile name too but im not sure thats worked.

On to the car and time for some more transmission bits, next up was the pedal swap and master cylinder fitment. I was going to use the wilwood master supplied with the clutch kit but as this was designed for a mk3 supra, the billet adaptor supplied would have to be modified to fit the IS300. I really looked into this but i just could not see a way round it without butchering the billet adaptor and i did not want it looking crap. I decided the wilwood master would be sold and i am going for an IS200 OEM master and clutch line. This would again be using original toyota/lexus parts making it look nice and factory fitted. 

I first of all made a little template out of card to mark the bulk head.

20170923_154004.thumb.jpg.f5da541fef27790ff123f36cf609cb28.jpg

I then marked up the bulk head and drilled the holes for the master cylinder studs

20170923_155245.thumb.jpg.a3b8f4f5d225ad32aa36d9049cb03bc2.jpg

I the used a cone cutter to cut the hole for the mater cylinder plunger to go through.

20170923_160817.thumb.jpg.af5983ad6ed8ffb295375e3800c21d90.jpg

As you can see good old toyota came up trumps again by leaving a hole in the insulation for the bulk head exposing the master cylinder location. This was the same for the inside of the car on the bulk head insulation.

20170923_161203.thumb.jpg.ecaf33acabd4c5024ff454f34f6ba91e.jpg

It was pre cut so all i had to do was pull it out.

I then fitted the master ready for the pedal to go in.

20170923_162518.thumb.jpg.06a7fdb26332bd31bc057a979ae4636d.jpg

Now as this was auto i would have to swap out the large auto pedal for the manual pedal, ebay provided these.

Went from this ........20170910_135736.thumb.jpg.95c2796116679c085fbd43d376c4c085.jpg

To this ..........

20170910_154833.thumb.jpg.3f27923735570bb8a8ccdc66b3940f0f.jpg20170923_162543.thumb.jpg.a596613972e1de26ba1c7460862abaf2.jpg

Thats better, looking like a proper original manual now! Master cylinder all bolted up to the pedal box now and a paper gasket used. Just waiting on the factory clutch line now and the beauty of this is the clips on the bulk head holding the brake lines have the blank space for the line the clip into. So no ugly braided line hanging across the bay and another part i can sell on with the wilwood master.

Whilst i was at toyota i also ordered a gear pattern plaque for the center console, not fitting this yet but just thought it would be a nice touch to make it look OEM factory fitted. 

20170915_140136.thumb.jpg.4b1f1a5a58b885b818fc8a5e94a377d6.jpg

This brings me up to date, from here updates will be slower but i will keep this going soon as i get something else done.

Once the clutch line comes, next weekend im hoping the engine will be out so some juicy updates to come.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Good progress Rob, liking the small details such as the gear pattern plaque:yes:

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update.......

Now you see me........

20171002_194220.thumb.jpg.ab2334458b68573be8e075d702900c37.jpg

Now you dont........

20171002_200836.thumb.jpg.3be54d519bbdb4bcbd7dd967071c9c00.jpg

I had the engine stand ready to bolt it onto but the bolts i have are not long enough to get through the stand holder and the block.

20171002_200826.thumb.jpg.ab628c1738bcb8677df465627387c889.jpg20171002_200855.thumb.jpg.e23994ede42ecec2e2c452455b1e895f.jpg20171002_200904.thumb.jpg.448d03ed6676e009bd4b355e91223995.jpg

Easy enough to pull the engine out, i removed the a/c condensor to make life a little easier. Going to find some longer bolts tomorrow and get it on the stand.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another small update, could not find m12 bolts with a 1.25 pitch thread long enough to go through the engine stand bracket and the engine block. I ordered some off ebay 100mm long and they are perfect. So will get the engine on the stand tomorrow and can set about pulling it apart.

Also this turned up ..........

20171006_193315.thumb.jpg.6bdc5b6a9cf58d49b37afe675fa01fe0.jpg

Atleast now whilst im waiting for bits to come i can set about installing the AEM, im going to install it inside the glove box so its tucked up out the way. Im also looking to relocate the factory engine ecu in the passenger side top corner of the engine bay where the battery once lived. I can then relocate the battery to the boot. Its all about to get very fun!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got some more done today, plans of installing the AEM was shelved as the weather was decent as i wanted to get the engine bay stripped some more and cleaned up.

20171008_142843.thumb.jpg.e520c873c338a0a107743ee52c8a6145.jpg

I removed the ecu and fuse boxes, unclipped and moved the loom on both sides of the bay, fully removed the a/c pipes and dusted everything down ready to wash.20171008_142855.thumb.jpg.eed0c8f5a0ccdb97bf0f06bcae8fef7c.jpg20171008_143544.thumb.jpg.460165b33c5b3945f8bae2dfbb240922.jpg

Bit of meguires gold class and some hot water and worked in using a brush, gave it wash down using a slow flowing hose and avoided the loom like the plague.

It didnt come up too bad to be honest, lots of scratches around and on the passenger side it looks at some point like the battery has leaked acid! Its eaten into the paint and sent the metal rusty. This is going to be sanded down, and painted.20171008_150844.thumb.jpg.f38381a4394fe40c7e77773e18a440b9.jpg20171008_150850.thumb.jpg.f7c897ee73e81d1f5827b28184f74866.jpg20171008_150858.thumb.jpg.a63b6dee816620b4773c011ddc0fd381.jpg

Now thats done ive also finally got the engine on the stand. Its at this point i really started to think as to just how big this project is! Ive got AEM air fuel ratio and boost gauges to fit as well as the loom. I also need to sort the original engine loom and slightly extend some wires to relocate the ecu box where the battery was, which leads me on to having to relocate the battery to the boot which means a running a cable through the car front to rear........ and thats just part of the whole thing!

20171007_160525.thumb.jpg.80dd1a2f4cc49761d62933f8273cb5f4.jpg20171007_162554.thumb.jpg.a76dfd955245d3e2f30872607eef2477.jpg

Got a few bits stripped off the engine on saturday afternoon...

20171007_180406.thumb.jpg.c2550a675af0fa277f7499758c3c0cb5.jpg

And the child in me did this little fast and furious quote ............ my mrs just shook her head at me 😂20171007_175750.thumb.jpg.20f13ca3d73fa94765f617010536a7e5.jpg...

Next up going to sand down that rust and prep the bay for painting. Im also going to get the AEM in and plan where im going to route the loom and how to extend the original slightly.

 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, rob_clio172 said:

And the child in me did this little fast and furious quote ............ my mrs just shook her heas at me 😂20171007_175750.thumb.jpg.20f13ca3d73fa94765f617010536a7e5.jpg...

 

Ah, we're all children.

NDKmjaZl.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Bempa said:

Great thread and great build!

Cheers matey, the weekends cannot come quick enough now for me to do more! Im swapping soon onto 4day weeks at work so get more time playing without the mrs nagging 😂

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another small update...... the crank pulley bolt has been giving me grief which i was not expecting! I dont have the pulley holding tool so i tried using my snap on half inch electric impact gun........ useless! I then borrowed an ingersoll rand electric impact gun ......... useless aswell 😂. Then i tried something i found on you tube, i doubled the alternator belt back on itself around the crank pulley in such a way, that when you undo the crank pulley the belt tightens down on it and locks it in place....

20171011_193852.thumb.jpg.b7aebdb64379234d55c9230325cf5e71.jpg

This ^^^ is what it took to undo it, a breaker bar and 2 jack handles!!! The breaker bar was bent like a banana and i was convinced it was goin snap! With a couple of cracks it went, at which point it was lifting the engine and the stand off the floor!!.20171011_193910.thumb.jpg.1a5db3be832a1bfe99d2a20ae7fce54c.jpg20171011_193935.thumb.jpg.2187de50cb635ae67f669b3132ca16f9.jpg

Glad thats out the way, whilst i was faffing i got the hard clutch line fitted which i picked up from the dealer last weekend looks all nice and factory fitted.

20171010_192713.thumb.jpg.cac6b562e65612a669a98b16188330cf.jpg20171010_192630.thumb.jpg.fd6d9eec8a27c5063b4e56c0aa42d62c.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good and well done you. I've seen a few of those crank pulley bolts stories where people are convinced it's welded on. I remember doing one similar to that with the engine in the car using a big breaker bar and 2 trolley jack handles as a sleeve. Like you I was sure something would snap before the bolt moved but it eventually turned with a short sharp movement. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow it really took a lot of momentum to break that crank pulley bolt loose

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Neil E said:

Looking good and well done you. I've seen a few of those crank pulley bolts stories where people are convinced it's welded on. I remember doing one similar to that with the engine in the car using a big breaker bar and 2 trolley jack handles as a sleeve. Like you I was sure something would snap before the bolt moved but it eventually turned with a short sharp movement. 

Yeh i thought either the belt i had doubled up on it would snap or the bar! Ive done hundreds of these when i was a tech a lexus but ive never had 1 as tight as this and absolutly no corrosion on the bolt or washer either

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Bempa said:

Wow it really took a lot of momentum to break that crank pulley bolt loose

😂 i thought it was going to end in a trip to A&E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it said "no compression" first lmao

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i thought it was going to end in a trip to A&E
I really hate that when you can feel it in the whole body the pain that will come when it break loose, but you have no other choice then keep on pulling I'm glad you got it loose with out hurting your self


Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been reading this with interest great work, when it comes to removing difficult engine parts, this vid is a must see.......

Big Rat

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So another small update, i was hoping to get lots done this weekend as weather forcast was good and i was not working....... well the mrs had other plans and ive ended up decorating all saturday!! I also forgot to bring my tools home from work so today i set about doing something small that i didnt need many tools for.

I made a start on relocating the factory engine ecu box up where the battery use to live.20171015_123527.thumb.jpg.824ee40dc29b1e32a53b03369b933a3f.jpg

It was going to need some chopping and modding to make this work, i trimmed down the old air feed pipe that comes from the fan cowling.

20171015_123616.thumb.jpg.72a2ce2f9fb07ad086fa9d516a33e907.jpg

Also cut away the old pipe which goes down to by the washer bottle, this was to avoid contact with the brake pipe for the passenger front.20171015_125543.thumb.jpg.ed4362c1318b6c26df27261549dbacf7.jpg

I also cut away from 1 of the supports for the bolting positions as this was touching the wiring loom coming out of the bulk head.

20171015_123611.thumb.jpg.b72207324569b2e0492b39e05e23d4e5.jpg

Now i know it looks rough as a bear's arse but this will be tidied up with a small set of fine files just so it looks tidy. Once this was done i trial fitted it to see if it was ok with the bonnet down. 

20171015_123445.thumb.jpg.8f489df5b686a401714e635c8267ddd5.jpg

This is the advantage of having no engine or front end on the car i can crawl into the bay 😂. Plenty room, as you can see its resting on that brake line but it will sit around half an inch above this when i have had some brackets fabricated. This now means the factory body loom that goes in through the bottom of ecu box need to be lengthened by around half a meter or so.

Ive also been eyeing up where to locate the AEM and the glove box is prime place, its looking difficult though as to where im going to get the loom through the bulk head to it. Its very tight up behind the glove box and around the blower motor. 

20171015_123454.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, superkaribou said:

I Bob, i love your thread.

I think, in the futur, i build a 2JZ with 6 speed oem box for my 200.

thanks matey. Do it!! i did look into the 6speed v160 as these can handle huge amounts of power proven upto 1000bhp but they come at a big price! i also looked at the nissan cd009 gearbox with a conversion plate as these too can handle big power but i would prefer to keep things toyota/lexus. The r154 can handle enough power for my goals although there has been people who have had these fail but this could be age and abuse related. Aslong as its treated with some mechanical sympathy i think it should be ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How well does the R154 fit in the chassi? Is there any need of "body adjustment"?

Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Bempa said:

How well does the R154 fit in the chassi? Is there any need of "body adjustment"?

Skickat från min F8331 via Tapatalk
 

The cross member will need some re working, nothing too bad though and will probably have to space the cross member out half an inch or so from the body. I had to use a w58 megan racing mount to bolt to the standard auto cross member

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now