Rust proofing

[Cloudy McCloud]

Just bought my first Lexus (RX400h, 2007, 96k). In your opinion is it worth rust proofing? What method is the best, what company in N/E London would you recommend? All advice much appreciated.

[Barry14UK]

41 minutes ago, Cloudy McCloud said:

Just bought my first Lexus (RX400h, 2007, 96k). In your opinion is it worth rust proofing? What method is the best, what company in N/E London would you recommend? All advice much appreciated.

We have had several members who have this model and underside rust problem, particularly with the subframes, some causing MOT failure.  It has proved very difficult and expensive to repair these so some have gone the used from breakers route.  Hopefully, your car is good and if this is the case it's certainly worth treating if you intend to keep it for some time.  It should be good for many more miles if well maintained.  (Especially important that the cam belt is changed as recommended for example).  There are firms that prepare and treat with preservative and one member did suggest as place not so very long ago.  You might be able to find this using the search facility but this is does not work very well. 

[Cloudy McCloud]

Thank you Barry this helps a lot. 

[VFR]

bis in die ( member) sent me this link as he is going to them in the new year & they do a good job by the look of it.

https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

[The-Acre]

On 12/23/2021 at 8:26 PM, Cloudy McCloud said:

Just bought my first Lexus (RX400h, 2007, 96k). In your opinion is it worth rust proofing? What method is the best, what company in N/E London would you recommend? All advice much appreciated.

Earlier this year I bought a 6 year old Honda and I wanted to give the underneath a rust treatment so I used something called Lanoguard. It's worth looking it up, it's very easy to apply and isn't toxic. 

[McRattlehead]

I used ACF50 on the underside of my car last year it was also easy to use.

[Cloudy McCloud]

12 hours ago, VFR said:

bis in die ( member) sent me this link as he is going to them in the new year & they do a good job by the look of it.

https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

Thank you VFR. Looks good, a bit too far from London though.

[Cloudy McCloud]

53 minutes ago, The-Acre said:

Earlier this year I bought a 6 year old Honda and I wanted to give the underneath a rust treatment so I used something called Lanoguard. It's worth looking it up, it's very easy to apply and isn't toxic. 

Thank you The-Acre I'll definitely look it up. 

[Cloudy McCloud]

14 minutes ago, McRattlehead said:

I used ACF50 on the underside of my car last year it was also easy to use.

Thank you McRattlehead, I'll check it out. 

[PCM]

... for me, the issue was rust under the rear wheel arch covers, where water got trapped.

I did rust proof - a messy job - but i'm not sure it made a huge difference. It seems to be where you cannot see as much as where you can...

Definitely worth consideration though.

[The-Acre]

1 hour ago, PCM said:

... for me, the issue was rust under the rear wheel arch covers, where water got trapped.

I did rust proof - a messy job - but i'm not sure it made a huge difference. It seems to be where you cannot see as much as where you can...

Definitely worth consideration though.

Lanoguard is an unusual product in that it's a by-product of sheep, ie lanolin. It doesn't smell unpleasant, just slightly farm yard! It doesn't make the mess that waxy products make and comes with a trigger gun making it easy to access all areas. I did the whole of mine in 15mins. Lots of YouTube videos showing it.

[plastic orange]

If using ACF50, don't let any of it drop on a monoblock drive as you'll really struggle to clean it afterwards (almost impossible) - don't ask me how I know lol.

 

Pete

[Bluemarlin]

I also sprayed ACF50 all over the underside of mine just before winter, as there was a little surface rust, so will see what it's like come spring.  Using a cheap pressure spray bottle, like those used for misting plants, makes the job faster/easier than the little spray bottle it comes with, and heating it in a bucket of hot water first helps it flow easier. It's quite a quick job.

I'd also suggest getting the arch covers off for a look behind. I took off my rear ones and there was a ton of caked on mud, but fortunately no rust. You can also see where the fuel filler pipe runs from there, which has also had rust issues on some cars, so you can give that a spray of rust proofing too.

If you don't fancy doing it yourself, I've seen a company called CSK Automotive, based in Herts, mentioned on Land Rover forums. Not cheap by the look of it and no personal experience.

As an aside, I may look at spraying some cavity wax in the summer. Has anyone done this themselves? If so, how did you access the sills, as I haven't had a chance to look yet?

[Barry14UK]

This is a job I intend to do in  late spring 2022.  Last year I prised off the scuff plates on my 20 year old  BMW and made a few extra holes in the sills beneath.  I then used a modified long bolt to knock out a few dents to the extent that these could be finished prior to finally levelling with filler.  However, I did first weld up some of these extra holes, although this was probably not essential.  I did also spray a product through the fixing holes after welding called dynax S-50 extreme duty anti - corrosion wax. I did it in the summer so even using the extension tube it was not necessary to put the container in hot water.  Tests I saw previously showed this to provide better long term protection than other tested products so I went with this product. The BMW scuff plates were then pushed back with the clips.  I will probably go with product for the Lexus but will do some research first as products do improve over time.  Also, what is best for assessible areas is not always best for box sections. I should have some unused Waxole somewhere tucked away but believe better products exist so will not be using it.

[Barry14UK]

Just found this on detailers thread re dynax S - 50. If not reading through this long thread with some pics just read page 1 and 5 which reports product after time and pretty good satisfaction. 

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=53133

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?s=dfe870ac8cf31367cf0c7903a02fbaa1&t=53133&page=5

[PCM]

10 hours ago, Barry14UK said:

Just found this on detailers thread re dynax S - 50. If not reading through this long thread with some pics just read page 1 and 5 which reports product after time and pretty good satisfaction. 

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=53133

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?s=dfe870ac8cf31367cf0c7903a02fbaa1&t=53133&page=5

Dynax - that's what I used. Great stuff! Can be messy but worth it... 

[steve2006]

On 12/26/2021 at 11:24 AM, The-Acre said:

Lanoguard is an unusual product in that it's a by-product of sheep, ie lanolin. It doesn't smell unpleasant, just slightly farm yard! It doesn't make the mess that waxy products make and comes with a trigger gun making it easy to access all areas. I did the whole of mine in 15mins. Lots of YouTube videos showing it.

There are apparently certain disadvantages in using this product but hopefully living in a town Phil you should be OK.

[Barry14UK]

3 hours ago, steve2006 said:

There are apparently certain disadvantages in using this product but hopefully living in a town Phil you should be OK.

 

 

3 hours ago, steve2006 said:

There are apparently certain disadvantages in using this product but hopefully living in a town Phil you should be OK.

Yes, see the disadvantage if you live in the country, the smell attracts all the sheep so your car is surrounded. lol

Also, can't follow how box sections can be thoroughly cleaned, driiled, injected and sealed again in 15 mins!! 

[The-Acre]

12 hours ago, Barry14UK said:

 

 

Yes, see the disadvantage if you live in the country, the smell attracts all the sheep so your car is surrounded. lol

Also, can't follow how box sections can be thoroughly cleaned, driiled, injected and sealed again in 15 mins!! 

The 15 mins was the application, obviously with any rust treatment the preparation is the most time consuming.

[The-Acre]

13 hours ago, steve2006 said:

There are apparently certain disadvantages in using this product but hopefully living in a town Phil you should be OK.

Not so, I neutralised it with concentrated mint sauce! A strange old world, 9 months on and I'm being offered far more for my Honda than I paid for it, that's never happened before!

[Bluemarlin]

As a follow up, I took the opportunity of the long weekend to finally do my rust proofing.

I took off the wheels, one at a time, to do the wheel arches. I removed the arch liner on the nearside rear, which had a bit of mud behind it but no rust, so I cleaned off the mud and gave everything a good spray of Dynax UB. The offside rear had a little surface rust around the liner bolts, and the outer sill edge, which I treated with rust converter/stabiliser, before spraying everything with Dynax UB.

The liners for the front wheels looked like a bit more of a faff to remove, with a variety of fixings. However, both sides looked fairly clean and rust free, and so I left the liners in place and sprayed Dynax UB on all visible surfaces. Whilst the wheels were off I took the opportinity to wipe some ACF 50 over the calipers and brake parts, and spray AT 205 on any bushes/rubber parts.

I popped the treadplates off the front to see if there was any way to spray Dynax S50 into the sills, but no joy. Under the rear plates there was a hole that the S50 long wand would fit in, and so I sprayed some in there as best as I could.

Onto the underside, and I placed plenty of sheets of cardboard underneath to catch all the drips, as it's quite messy. I used the long wand to spray Dynax S50 into any holes and cavities I could see. I then sprayed Dynax UB over all surfaces, left it overnight, and did another coat the next day. The following day I liberally sprayed some ACF 50 over the underside to try and catch any missed areas and get into any nooks and crannies.

As a finishing touch I finally fitted the mudguards I got off eBay a few months ago. I don't imagine I'll need to do the arches again for another few years, as they're relatively unexposed, but will probably spray the underside with Dynax UB/ACF 50 annually, as that only takes about half an hour.

I found the Dynax products very easy to use, so hope they live up to expectations. Their customer service is excellent, as one can of UB jammed open and I lost the contents, and they sent me another one, as well as a bottle of car shampoo as an apology.

All in all a relatively easy job, and quite satisfying to have got it done in time for winter.