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Door Light Problem?


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This afternoon i fitted that little magic box that folds the wing mirrors in when i press the c/l button on the key, works great really happy with it, apart from it has left me with a weird problem, the drivers red courtesy light in the bottom of the door does not come on, it will come on if i open the passenger door though (passenger one works fine) :question: I really cant work out why it is doing this. can anyone shed any light on the matter :D

Thanks

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Hi, the pin switch on the drivers door is still working, as when the lights are on and i turn the engine off and open the door it turns the lights off and turns the centre console lights on like it should so i would guess the problem is not there, there is obvioulsy power getting to the drivers door light as it comes on when the passenger door opens, so i am really puzzled!

I work in electronics so had the know how to make the box and fit it, but this problem has really puzzled me!

Thanks

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Yer, i thought that took the box completly out of the circuit and put it back to standard but did'nt solve the problem, so i put it back in now and its still the same. i could understand if it wasnt working at all, but to only work when the passenger door is open has really perplexed me?

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Have just been thinking, The Fuse in the passenger footwell Labelled DOME (7.5A) is the only one that has anything to do with the door/interior lighting is'nt it? the fuse is'nt blown just wondering if there is another one for it?

Thanks

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Haven't tried this yet but ....

Do both red lights come on when EITHER door is opened ?

ie. if working properly, would pass side light come on when drivers door opened ?

Would seem to indicate a door switch prob. Maybe there's more than one ?

Pin switch + one in the door lock or something ?

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I know i cant remember what used to happen, The car is only 4 weeks old, i know its only a little thing but if i dont solve it its really going to annoy me,

OT :- Noticed you live in Felixstowe Tony i used to live there for about 4/5 years! Small world!

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That's very odd.

The one fuse controls them all.

Both lights come from the ECU, but not the same connectors. The ECU is switching neg. and there should be a 12v on one side permanently.

The door lights have their own seperate neg switched feed each, (not fading) with the dome + ignition on another (fading).

Trace the wire from the door light onto the connector, and check the +/- and see which one isn't getting to it.

When you took the unit out, did you re-join the wires or leave them trailing? Try it with them re-joined.

Where did you take perm. 12v from?

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Haven't tried this yet but ....

Do both red lights come on when EITHER door is opened ?

ie. if working properly, would pass side light come on when drivers door opened ?

Would seem to indicate a door switch prob. Maybe there's more than one ?

Pin switch + one in the door lock or something ?

Now i have tried and only the light on the open door switches on.

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That sounds as if the drivers switched earth is touching the passenger side earth, but disconnected from it's own switched earth!!!!!!!

Hmmm. They come out of the ECU on points PCLP (pin 9) and DCLP (Pin7) but both are routed to the respective kick panel at the side they are on.

That's even more confusing.

Does the warning buzzer sound when you open the drivers door with the lights on? It hasn't started sounding when you open the passenger door at all has it?

I'm just trying to determine if it is a switching problem, or an output to the light problem.

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Aha - there is no true permananet 12v on this connector into the door.

There are a few that appear that way, as the lamps will act like fuses/low value resistors, and being neg switched will have what appears to be 12v until it is brought low by the neg. Also, the PW timer will be on for a while and there is a very low current feed to the auto window sensor. What colour or pin did you connect to? I'll tell you exactly what that is.

When you dis-connected the closure unit, did you also disconnect it's power supply? My guess is that you've takan a 12v from one of the feeds there - the unit would still work when when the door is closed as you will have the 12v through the lamp feed (neg switched don't forget). My guess is the current draw is too high for the door lamp, and it's not until the other door is opened that you get the additional power required to the lamps.

Either way, drawing from the limited supply there will cause problems to the body ECU long term - the outputs are controlled via transistors, only the higher power uses the relays.

Take your power feed from the meaty perm. ignition feed (white with red stripe - you can get to it by leaning right underneath, above the pedals.) Just bare the sheath back a bit and join into it. (create a 'cats eye' and feed your lead through it).

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Thanks mate, will have a try on sunday now, would this explain why even when the drivers door is shut and i open the passenger one the drivers red lamp comes on even though the door is shut??? I did defently take a live from that connector so will have to change that anyway, some times i think i should steer clear of electronics! :)

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Hi geoffers, have noticed something interesting this evening while i was out, when i turn the ignition off the toggle switch for the drivers side window stays illumanated, if i press it down it will take the window down about a centimetre and then stop and is no longer illumanated, it's like its got a voltage kicking about and then when i press it, it dumps the current. i am even more confused than i was before now, going to have a nosy tomorrow, if i disconnect the Battery will it dump the whole system?

Thanks!

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That confirms it Dave - it's the 12v supply you've used.

It's from the window timer and it's receiving the neg. from the closure unit. The light is staying on due to the large capacitor in circuit and discharging as soon as you draw the extra load, then being held low.

Take it from the perm described above and all should be ok.

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