Another Ls400 Newbie - (I Hope)

[Scribe]

I've just joined the Club as I'm looking for a MkIII or IV LS400 and will be grateful for any advice about finding a good one. I'm planning to keep it for a few years and to use it mostly for long journeys. Having dithered for months over buying one, and scoured E-Bay and Autotrader most days, I know I've just got to take the plunge and go for it. I've already found comments on here helpful, but as someone has pointed out, the problem is that there are so few decent-looking cars for sale at realistic prices, so finding one could involve a lot of travelling around the country.

My starting-point is a good service history, and after that I'm looking for the newest car I can find. I don't want a mega-mileage car but gather that this isn't necessarily a problem if the car's been maintained well. It seems I can't be too choosy about colour - most of the later MkIVs for sale are dark green or blue.

As I haven't actually driven an LS400 yet, and am bound to be struck by its lack of noise, can members suggest what I should listen for, and look for, other than checking that everything works? Would it help to try out a few different cars? And are E-Bay and Autotrader the best places to look for one?

Lastly, there seems to be a difference of opinion about how often cambelts should be changed - some say every 60,000, others every 100,000 (I got different answers when I spoke to the local Lexus dealership and independent specialists).

Many thanks in advance!

[Nitmoi]

Everything you suggest makes sense. Look around other threads asking the same things. Displays and suspension, glands on exhaust are most likely problems. Check cam belt expiry of around 60,000 miles. I could sell you a cheap 96/7 in slightly scraped condition in Silver. Cam belt done new disks and pads front new flexi hoses. Clear displays and needles. Needs tracking and tyres sorting.

[Scribe]

Everything you suggest makes sense. Look around other threads asking the same things. Displays and suspension, glands on exhaust are most likely problems. Check cam belt expiry of around 60,000 miles. I could sell you a cheap 96/7 in slightly scraped condition in Silver. Cam belt done new disks and pads front new flexi hoses. Clear displays and needles. Needs tracking and tyres sorting.

Thanks Nitmoi. By all means let me have more details of your cheap 96/7, and what work it needs. A friend has suggested that as I haven't had a Lexus before I should begin with an older one and see how it goes before perhaps getting a newer one in a year or two. I'm open to this idea - unless other members think I should buy as new as possible. Presumably any Mk.IV will have a few problems to be sorted?

[SteveLS400]

Everything you suggest makes sense. Look around other threads asking the same things. Displays and suspension, glands on exhaust are most likely problems. Check cam belt expiry of around 60,000 miles. I could sell you a cheap 96/7 in slightly scraped condition in Silver. Cam belt done new disks and pads front new flexi hoses. Clear displays and needles. Needs tracking and tyres sorting.

Thanks Nitmoi. By all means let me have more details of your cheap 96/7, and what work it needs. A friend has suggested that as I haven't had a Lexus before I should begin with an older one and see how it goes before perhaps getting a newer one in a year or two. I'm open to this idea - unless other members think I should buy as new as possible. Presumably any Mk.IV will have a few problems to be sorted?

Hi and welcome

As Nitmoi suggests, there is a ton of stuff on here, just use the search facility - give your self plenty of time and enjoy.

Most would say that there MK (I,II,III, IV) was best. As you will see from the search results the MKIII is probably the most economical and has less dash board issues than earlier versions and doesnt have the satnav issues of the MKIV.

It is widely suggested that cambelts are now good for 100000 miles but is a costly item due to time. Also costly for the same reason is the starter motor as its located in the V of the engine meaning time to strip down just to get at it. The other things that may be an issue are leaking power steering reservoir, front upper control arms on the suspension (safe but can clonk - mine does in hot weather), heated front seat elements (go on most vehicles as they are like electric blanket elements). The only extravagance I went to was to have the automatic climate control/aircon completely overhauled but in the main regular gasing per any aircon is suffient.

In the main these cars are superb and significantly better than competitors of a similar age. Parts aren't horrendous although main dealer prices and servicing often is.

I test drove mine 3 times including one session where I had the windows down to listen for anything untoward; nothing. At 190k miles I recon she's just run in.

I love my car. Hope you are successful in your search. Make sure you get at least 1 master key and a fob that works the security and central locking, preferably 2 of each. It may also come with a valet key but that won't open the boot etc. Below the steering wheel is a button and a key slot, if the seller won't let you press the button in, then you don't have a master key.

[Scribe]

Everything you suggest makes sense. Look around other threads asking the same things. Displays and suspension, glands on exhaust are most likely problems. Check cam belt expiry of around 60,000 miles. I could sell you a cheap 96/7 in slightly scraped condition in Silver. Cam belt done new disks and pads front new flexi hoses. Clear displays and needles. Needs tracking and tyres sorting.

Thanks Nitmoi. By all means let me have more details of your cheap 96/7, and what work it needs. A friend has suggested that as I haven't had a Lexus before I should begin with an older one and see how it goes before perhaps getting a newer one in a year or two. I'm open to this idea - unless other members think I should buy as new as possible. Presumably any Mk.IV will have a few problems to be sorted?

Hi and welcome

As Nitmoi suggests, there is a ton of stuff on here, just use the search facility - give your self plenty of time and enjoy.

Most would say that there MK (I,II,III, IV) was best. As you will see from the search results the MKIII is probably the most economical and has less dash board issues than earlier versions and doesnt have the satnav issues of the MKIV.

It is widely suggested that cambelts are now good for 100000 miles but is a costly item due to time. Also costly for the same reason is the starter motor as its located in the V of the engine meaning time to strip down just to get at it. The other things that may be an issue are leaking power steering reservoir, front upper control arms on the suspension (safe but can clonk - mine does in hot weather), heated front seat elements (go on most vehicles as they are like electric blanket elements). The only extravagance I went to was to have the automatic climate control/aircon completely overhauled but in the main regular gasing per any aircon is suffient.

In the main these cars are superb and significantly better than competitors of a similar age. Parts aren't horrendous although main dealer prices and servicing often is.

I test drove mine 3 times including one session where I had the windows down to listen for anything untoward; nothing. At 190k miles I recon she's just run in.

I love my car. Hope you are successful in your search. Make sure you get at least 1 master key and a fob that works the security and central locking, preferably 2 of each. It may also come with a valet key but that won't open the boot etc. Below the steering wheel is a button and a key slot, if the seller won't let you press the button in, then you don't have a master key.

Thanks for your welcome and information Steve. I've been reading some of your other comments on here - all appreciated. I suppose my big question is: how much do I spend? You know what it's like: you can always spend a few more hundred to get another car that's slightly newer or with lower mileage, and at what point do you stop? I was thinking of spending about £2500, for which I'm expecting a 98 or 99 S/T reg in decent nick and with sensible mileage and a good history. But I've been surprised to see that some people are advertising late Mk2s or early Mk3s for that money; in which case why shouldn't I spend £1500 max on a Mk3?

[Chris Skelton]

The good ones will fetch more money. After all, it will be a £50K car, cared for by enthusiast, or company, with low-ish mileage for £4-5K! Same price as a hatch! And, as you'll discover, MUCH better!

I can't think what I'd buy instead that would be anywhere NEAR a Lexus at the ludicrous prices they fetch!

I rarely use mine except for distances and not in Winter. But, at £4-5K.......what would i get instead ??

(I know....a Mehari, before you who know me chip in!!)

[Scribe]

You might be lucky and find a nice MKIV for £2500 that has been well cared for, but it's probable you will end up spending money to get it up to scratch.

I paid £2500 for a 1998 R reg MKIV, it's in generally good condition, but a lack of maintenance by previous owners meant, I ended up changing oil, plugs, filters, brake pads/disks and tyres before it was up to a standard I expected.

I also had the problem of only one key, thankfully a master remote key, and had to learn the hard way about sourcing a new key without paying the dealer a fortune and programming it to the car. SteveLS400 gives good advice about listening and particularly about the keys, DO NOT BUY a car without a master key, and negotiate a good £200 - £300 off for a car with only one master key.

The Sat Nav on the MKIV isn't brilliant, but now and again it comes in really handy and since I updated it to a 2008 disk, it's not too far out of date either.

Thanks for all this. The business about the keys would never have occurred to me if you hadn't told me.

[John Lawley]

get as late as you can, i have a mk3 and it's better then mk 1 or 2 but the mk4 is better then mine and i really want one, although they have an old satnav, really how expensive is a TomTom??? i'm much more after the extra power (+20bhp over a mk3 +30bhp over mk1/2) better fuel econermy (VVTi) and extra gear (5 speed auto rather then 4 speed) plus the traction control, Xenon headlights and other bits.

Of course i'd rather have an LS430 over that lol.

Check the rear diff on any car your buying doesn't leak, mines been leaking ages (about 6 months or 14k) and it's now making lots of noise (it's done 231k).

Look for rust, make sure no horrible clonking noises from suspension, nice smooth gearchanges and check the cambelts been replaced in last 60k or knock some money off (and don't change till 100k ;) ), make sure all electrics work the engine should be smooth and make no untoward noises (i still try to start mine when it's already runnign ad it's done 231k and is silent at tickover, not like my 50k sierra xr4x4 2.9 cologne which you could hear tapping before you could hear the exhaust when it was coming down the road....)

good luck and buy on condition not mileage, to a lesser extent service history of the more recent time frame is more important then what was happeneing to it 15 years ago, if it's still going it must of been mainteaned but if it hasn't been recently how long is it going to last?

[Scribe]

get as late as you can, i have a mk3 and it's better then mk 1 or 2 but the mk4 is better then mine and i really want one, although they have an old satnav, really how expensive is a TomTom??? i'm much more after the extra power (+20bhp over a mk3 +30bhp over mk1/2) better fuel econermy (VVTi) and extra gear (5 speed auto rather then 4 speed) plus the traction control, xenon headlights and other bits.

Of course i'd rather have an LS430 over that lol.

Check the rear diff on any car your buying doesn't leak, mines been leaking ages (about 6 months or 14k) and it's now making lots of noise (it's done 231k).

Look for rust, make sure no horrible clonking noises from suspension, nice smooth gearchanges and check the cambelts been replaced in last 60k or knock some money off (and don't change till 100k ;) ), make sure all electrics work the engine should be smooth and make no untoward noises (i still try to start mine when it's already runnign ad it's done 231k and is silent at tickover, not like my 50k sierra xr4x4 2.9 cologne which you could hear tapping before you could hear the exhaust when it was coming down the road....)

good luck and buy on condition not mileage, to a lesser extent service history of the more recent time frame is more important then what was happeneing to it 15 years ago, if it's still going it must of been mainteaned but if it hasn't been recently how long is it going to last?

Thanks John. I've been interested to read members' comments about the relative merits of MkIII v. MkIV. The latter appeals because it's a newer car but I prefer the style and colours of the MkIII - plus they seem better value (assuming they're in good condition, of course).

[BHT]

Hi Scribe and welcome to the LOC. Hope your search goes well and you get one soon. You should take one out for a drive and see how good they are.

Everyone has different opinions about the mark 3 and 4. I have the 4 and one thing that nearly give me a heart attack was the cost of headlight bulbs!! They come in at £166 + Vat each :tsktsk: Take into account the Vat's probably going up next year to 20%

I think I'll probably just get some headlight bulbs off eBay for about £20 each as nearly £400 for a set is a crazy price to pay. My mate has a 2003 Bmw 330d Sport and his Xenon bulbs cost £250 approx. for the pair from Bmw.

[david_hornet27]

Hope you are having fun looking for your Lexus! I was in a similar position to you a year ago where I knew I wanted an LS400 but was not sure whether I had enough money to buy a Mk3 or Mk4. I knew I had a bonus coming at work of between £2500 - £3500 so had 6 months or so to trawl eBay and autotrader looking at what I could afford until the bonus materialised.

It soon became obvious that if I knew what I was looking for I would be able to get a decent Mk4 with service history and recent cambelt change for about £3000 if I looked hard enough. When I finally got the money I picked out 3 cars to go and look at after I had done plenty of research on here. I chose to look first at a car with only 50000 miles that had a full service history and was up for £3500 which was right at the top of my price range. As I hoped and expected it was an absolutely mint example which I could use as my bench mark. I test drove it on motorway and around town and then had a good long look round so I knew going forward what a perfect LS should look, sound and drive like.

I then went directly to see a car that had been knocking around on autotrader and eBay for a couple of months that had gone from £3500 down to £2600. As it hadn't sold I expected to be looking at a clapped out example, but was pleasantly surprised to find it was as good as the previous one except it had a smashed wing mirror. It had a sticker confirming the cambelt had been done within the last 20k miles and a full service history at Lexus Birmingham who I called to confirm what work had been done. The seller had also just had the wheels refurbished and put 4 new Pirelli tyres on. After a test drive it was obvious that it was a good car. So I offered the seller £2500 which he accepted and the rest is history. Didn't even bother looking at the 3rd car priced at £3k.

I have ended up with a car that I love, that has given me no problems in the 9 months I have owned it and went through its MOT with not even a single advisory!! The only money I have spent is on oil and filter, and I treated it to a service at Lexus Reading. Also for peace of mind I changed the transmission oil which was a relatively easy job but well worth it. I will be servicing myself from now on as I plan on keeping the car as long as possible so the stamps are not important to me. Other money spent has been cosmetic, new set of refurbished DHP alloys (i think they look better than the 'standard' wheels'), michelin primacy tyres, and the wing mirror (which cost me a fortune).

My advice is that you will certainly get a mint Mk4 for around £2.5K if you do your homework. Happy hunting!

[Nitmoi]

Hello again Scribe.

If you look at my post there is a green square under the Gold Member badge. Click and see my "gallery" It shows the scrape. I have replaced the door panel and the rear front wing panel. The bumper remais as is. All the wheels have been re-coated and there is a mint one on the spare. I left the scraped one on the front. Its got a new 2nd hand alternator. I have a VW van which is going to be my daily soon enough. Taxed November and MOT December. I love this car but have to go for practicality in straightened circumstances.

You are welcome to come and check it out. PM me if you are interested.

[Wessel]

I bought a August 2000 model mark 4 about a year ago for £5000. It was in mint condition, new tyres and just had its 50000 miles service with the cam belt done. It has not cost me a sent since. I think lexus might have done me in by selling me a 2006 navigation disk for £140. I get 30 miles per galon on the open road and average 22 normally around home. I am thinking of getting IS 200 RIMS as my original rimms look very old by this stage. Great car and enjoy the luxuries of a £50000 car for £5000 pounds. Everything is still working. You will not be sorry even if you pay £5000. Wessel

[John Lawley]

Thanks John. I've been interested to read members' comments about the relative merits of MkIII v. MkIV. The latter appeals because it's a newer car but I prefer the style and colours of the MkIII - plus they seem better value (assuming they're in good condition, of course).

If you get a good mk4 i'll gladdly swap it for my mk3 ;)