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Custom Sub Enclosure Design...


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The internal walls (highlighted in red in the picture below), can be fixed anywhere along the width of the box to adjust the internal volume depending on what speaker goes in there. Although I have designed this particular one to be tuned for a Kenwood KFC-WPS1200F 12" shallow sub. Alternatively you could mount 2 smaller subs one above the other, or a deeper sub if you wanted, but it would have to be fitted further down the main face to get the depth from the back wall. Either that or just make the whole box deeper. Although the depth I have designed it for was chosen specifically to match up with the metal rail that runs along the top edge of the boot (about 75mm from the top back edge) to help with the 'false wall' effect.

I'm currently waiting on a few quotes to get the parts CNC'd from 18mm MDF. So if you guys have any input, or if you know anyone that may be interested in getting one. Info on what subs could be fitted etc. Leave me a comment. :)

p.s. the chunk missing from the front corner of the box is to allow for the stupid lump in the left corner of the boot, no idea what it is. :question:

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Cheers Stav :)

I've been quoted about £90 to get the parts cut out, although subsequent orders would be considerably cheaper because most of that price would be to cover the machine set ups. I'd assemble it myself, and theres a company next to where I work that does upholstery who I'd get to carpet it (not sure on the cost of that though). Plus maybe 5-10 quid for the box mounted wiring terminals. So looking at maybe £130 tops for the enclosure ready to put a sub in.

That soundstream enclosure does look pretty good, if only it had a central mounting hole. And I'm struggling to find UK distributors for either of those products?

I'll probably stick with the Kenwood sub though just purely on the price, I can get one for £89 which I thought was pretty good considering the specs.

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Aah yes I found a link to them through a previous post, possibly even by you! Only trouble was I frequently have starting blocks for my athletics in the boot, and I know I'd end up knocking them into the sub there. Otherwise a very good product. What sub have you got out of curiousity? Did you get one that matched the internal volume requirments of that enclosure?

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again, a good product but doesnt have the sub mounted on the sloped surface. and it wont be particularly stealthy either. as far as 'hard work', im an engineer so i wouldnt blink an eye at spending half an hour assembling the box to save myself £70. plus its all about the sense of satisfaction ill get when i stand back and look at it fitted, knowing its a perfect fit and that no one else has one. :)

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when you say jigsaw, do you mean those beastly handheld tools which are well known for not being able to cut a straight line? :whistling:

at minimum it would have to be done on a bench mounted circular saw with some sort of guide. as it has to be airtight..

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yep jigsaw clamp a metal bar/rail parallel with the line you want to cut and run the jigsaw down the side of the bar/rail. obviosly you need to measure the distance between the blade to the side of the jig saw

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Hav a sub sittin to put in myself...tinkin of somfin slighly different which has been done on here before...removin the ski hatch thingy...12" sub facing into the car and still keep most of the boot! must put pic up if i get round to doin it! :D

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Hav a sub sittin to put in myself...tinkin of somfin slighly different which has been done on here before...removin the ski hatch thingy...12" sub facing into the car and still keep most of the boot! must put pic up if i get round to doin it! :D

i was going to do that originally, but then i realised that sealing the sub against the back of the seats would be quite difficult. and that your boot is WAY over the recommended air volume for any sub, so the acoustics are all wrong (you'd just end up with very rumbly low bass with no clarity or punch). i guess you could use a 'free air' sub though. then neither of those things would matter.

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