Diagnostics - 99 Gs300 Uk Spec

[bigegg]

I've spent the last two hours googling and just ended up confused - mainly because I haven't got a clue what to search for!

I just took delivery of my '99 GS300.

It has a regular flashing "ECT PWR" green light on the dash.

The handbook says "possibly transmission, see dealer". not gonna do that until I've exhausted the DIY options :.)

So...

first step is to see what engine codes?

I popped the bonnet, trusty paperclip in hand to generate the flashy lights for the diagnostics, and the TE1 socket doesn't have a connector in it :.(

I'm guessing that means OBD2, but non-standard so can't be read with a cheap eBay reader?

Is there another way of doing the paperclip test? Is there a trick with the pedals (as on Opel/Vauxhall cars?) to get the codes?

Or do I have to fork out my hard earned to get a diagnostic?

Don't mind paying for a tool if it's not TOO steep...

Also - handbrake light stays on when I release the handbrake - seems to dim slightly, and the handbrake does release. Sticky switch? is it in the handle? or the brake drum?

Thanks

[steve2006]

I googled "Lexus GS ect/pwr lights flashing" and up came a load of results.

It looks like the problem is the No. 3 Shift Solenoid in the transmission oil pan with a fault code of P0763 but read your diagnostic codes to confirm.

Does your car also having limited revs,maximum of 2000rpm?

Apparently this can be done by linking pins E1 and TS on the inside socket and reading the pulses on the ECT/Snow light.

Here's a starter for you.

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/66357-ectpwr-light-flashing/

[bigegg]

Thanks - I read that thread.

Car revs and drives normally - but I can't set pwr mode. Snow mode seems to set OK, although the ECT/PWR light still flashes.

can you point me towards a picture of the pin-out for the inside socket so I can find pins e1 and ts

All the instructions I can find point towards bridging pins on the socket which is under the bonnet?

As to the problem being the shift solenoid, the car seems to change gears perfectly - it's a 4-speed box (?) and I can see all four changes on the rev counter and barely feel them.

I'm going to check the transmission fluid tomorrow - I *hope* that's all it is, but changing the solenoid doesn't seem like a terrible job.

[bigegg]

is the "inside socket" the one which looks a bit like a TV scart lead?

Is it "DLC3"?

[TigerFish]

The inside socket does look similar to a scart socket, it is a standard odb2 connector. Unfortuantely, the '99 GS's aren't ODB2 compliant though, so the code readers won't work. If you already have one, no harm in giving it a go though. Later cars work fine with the readers.

The park brake light remaining on if the park brake is off can indicate other faults. Switch stuck on is one option but unlikely considering the lamp brightness changes (switch is on the pedal assembly). If no buzzer is sounding, then normally fluid level, if buzzer is also sounding, then probable brake booster problems. Can't ignore the potential that if the light has been on all the time, the buzzer may have been snipped to hide the booster buzzer. You can sometimes test the buzzer by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal a large number of times. It may then buzz and go off again a few seconds later. Of course if the buzzer has been cut, no way to test it other than check wiring.

[TigerFish]

p.s. you can read the check engine light codes by:

1. Switch ignition to on, withotu starting the car
2. bridge pins 4 (CG) and pin 13(Tc) on DLC3
3. read the pulses on the check engine light.

[bigegg]

Thanks for the above info.

The brake light doesn't always remain lit - it seems to remain lit after the parking brake has been used, then turns off after the car is switched off without the parking brake applied. Hence the reason to consider the switch.

I will check the buzzer wiring - does anyone happen to know where the buzzer is located?

I'm going to go take my paperclip back out to the car now and check the codes...

[TigerFish]

Thanks for the above info.

The brake light doesn't always remain lit - it seems to remain lit after the parking brake has been used, then turns off after the car is switched off without the parking brake applied. Hence the reason to consider the switch.

I will check the buzzer wiring - does anyone happen to know where the buzzer is located?

I'm going to go take my paperclip back out to the car now and check the codes...

That may be because the power to the booster is then off, and therefore the light goes off (just guessing at that).

[bigegg]

aaaarrrrrrgggghhhhhh!

I'm obviously doing something wrong here.

I've tried connecting up the paperclip - to CG and TC on the under-steering-wheel plug.

Also tried connecting TC and E1 on the under-bonnet plug as http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/techo.htm#ENGINE_CODES

Same effect both times -

dashboard lights up like a christmas tree.

I have ABS VC TC ETC/Snow ETC/Power and the engine management light alll blinking away - at different rates to each other, but all regularly - no pauses :tsktsk: so no codes.

I've checked my brake fluid level and it seems to be OK - dead on the max line, and it appears clean.

I can see myself having to visit a lexus dealer in a very short while :.(

<EDIT>

Having read a couple more articles:

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/56212-how-to-read-ecu-error-codes-on-a-mk2-with-a-paperclip/

http://www.bba-reman.com/auto-mine/toyota/toyota_obd.htm

it would appear that the regularly blinking ligts mean no fault codes stored...

so definitely lexus dealer for a live data reading?

[ColinBarber]

try shorting the pins before turning on the ignition to see if any error codes are given. Then try by shorting after the ignition is turned on.

One will give you current error codes and the other will give historical saved error codes (cannot remember which one is which off hand).

[bigegg]

I have an error code of "76" by the ect/pwr flashing light. :.(

I can't find a definition for it?

All the lists I see have 72 then 78 - no 76 listed

[ColinBarber]

how did you get the error code, which pins shorted and before or after ignition was turned on?

[TigerFish]

76 should be "shift Solenoid "C" Electrical Malfunction (No. 3 Solenoid Valve)"

[bigegg]

Tc and E1 (or pins 4 and 13) on under steering wheel plug.

Had a reply on clublexus.com, which says code 76 is no.3 solenoid (or the "usual suspect").

I'm hoping (as per a thread I read somewhere) that it's a loose connection, rather than a replacement needed.

If I*do* need a replacement - where's the best place? breakers?

[bigegg]

76 should be "shift Solenoid "C" Electrical Malfunction (No. 3 Solenoid Valve)"

where can I find the list of codes?

[bigegg]

How much damage am I likely to do to the gearbox if I ignore the problem for say the next 200 miles or couple of weeks?

[ColinBarber]

I think a new one will be around £300 in this country from a dealer. May be cheaper to import from the US.

Breakers would be worth a try, some may want to keep the transmission as a whole rather than letting it be stripped down for parts - I guess it depends if they have a few they would let one be stripped.

[ColinBarber]

attached is the diagnostic procedure. It is from a 2001 manual, after the GS got full ODBII code retrieval so it doesn't have the short codes published against the full error codes but P0763 = 76

GS300 trans shift.PDF

[bigegg]

ta very much.

[bigegg]

Finally got around to sorting this out today.

Took the drain bolt out from the sump pan, and removed about 3l of what would be best described as resembling

dark coffee with the consistency of a McDs chocolate milkshake.

Put 2l of the T-IV in, which brought the level to between the cold marks on the dipstick.

Went out for a 45 minute drive (about 25 miles) at all speeds from 5mph crawl to 70mph (honestly officer), then re-tested the fluid level at exactly mid-way between the hot marks.

Warning light isn't flashing, gear changes much smoother, and the "mental" button (PWR) works.

Will do the same again next week, and then the week after - that should have replaced over 50% of the old fluid.

So...

problem solved - I hope!

I'm guessing the old fluid had just gummed up the solenoid, and the new oil has cleaned it up just enough to let it work again.

[TigerFish]

Good result B)

[bigegg]

and the ***********ng thing is back flashing again.
guess I didn't change enough of the fluid.
back to the dealers for another three qts tomorrow

[ColinBarber]

Very odd for the fluid not to be nice and red in a GS, I wonder if it has been refilled with something other than T-IV.

multiple drain and refills is very wasteful, and T-IV is not cheap in this country. You could try changing the fluid all at once:

http://bananags.grantham-international.com/GS_DIY/completetrans/

[bigegg]

I'm leaning towards that myself :(

Trouble is, finding £100 before the end of the month is gonna be difficult.

[bigegg]

ATF purchased - £57 for 10l from a local(ish-10 miles) supplier - not sure if mentioning them is allowed, so I won't.

It's NOT toyota OEM, but it is labelled as Toyota T-IV, WS, and JWS-3309 equivalent.

Just need a set of car ramps now, cos I sold my last set (for £450!)