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I stripped the two front calipers down on my car yesterday after replacing the discs and pads a few weeks ago I just wanted to check all was ok. I have taken pictures of the process and posted below although I cant get the pictures to show properly they will however show if clicked on ... 1/ Chock wheels / jack car up and remove the wheel 2/ To remove the caliper from the assembly, locate the 2 bolts holding it on (you will need a size 14 socket to remove them) - remove the caliper from the assembly and place on a support - I use an old plant pot which is an ideal height which doesn't allow too much pressure to be put on the brake hose. Picture below shows the bolts (ringed) to remove and what I mean by supporting the caliper on a pot 3/ Remove the slide pins (shown ringed in the picture below) - these are easily located - the two bolts previously removed were bolted into the pins themselves. When removing be careful not to damage the rubber boots on the caliper itself and also when removing the pins be carefull with the top pin as it has an anti rattle rubbber seal attached to the pin itself so may seam stiff when removing the top pin. You may need to twist the pins when pulling out if the old grease has hardened. 4/ The pin locator holes can be cleaned with a wooden pencil or a pipe cleaner brush with a bit of WD40 - when clean dry them out with cotton buds and tissues. The pins, if in bad condition, can be cleaned with a fine wet and dry paper wet with WD40. Any staining on the metal should come off in the process. Careful when cleaning the top pin as this holds the rubber seal. I have shown the pins before and after a clean below before after 5/ I use Castrol LM grease which can be bought from Halfords and the amount I use I have shown in the picture below. I load the end of a pencil and apply two lots in each pin recess. I will wipe the pins with a bit of grease just so they slide in easy. 6/ When re-inserting the pins there will be a vacuum created by the new grease - slide pins in and out until they settle in the recess so the caliper can be placed back on the assembly. Any excess grease that comes out from boot - wipe this away and place the end of the boot back in the recess in the pin. Refitting is the reverse of above. Also - when doing this job its a good idea just to check if your pistons are working ok - have someone press the brake pedal gently so you can check to see that its not seized and working correctly. I use a G clamp to press the piston back in.

Installed a new AEM air intake to let the car breathe a bit better but still keep the quietness of the engine... It's pretty damn great! For anyone wanting to hear a bit more of the V6 whilst still keeping quiet around town then I would suggest getting the AEM intake. There's a few different manufacturers to choose from, however the AEM also comes with a module that fits on the MAF sensor to stop the engine light issues and also stop any incorrect changes in fuel governed by the ECU. That's not the only benefit of the AEM but it's worth it just for that! The installation too an hour and is very straight forward. There is no change in engine sound under 2.5k rpm... A little rumble up to 3k then growls like a beauty from about 4.5k rpm! Anyone who wants the growl on foot down but quiet at lower end then you should consider this!

On a car of that age I'd replace the cambelt even if it only had 10,000 miles. Rubber isn't designed to last for that long!

Welcome to LOC Dave, Not sure on your model about the first 2, but I wouldn't update the sat nav, its not cheap to do either. Some have used this method for headlights, and I'm about to try it myself! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lZ96BXoT10

I can hear mine when it's operating for left or right turn, not as loud as normal cars I admit, but is just audible

Because we are all Old Gits.........

Not sure if this has been posted before?

....... And decided to keep my ISF and just get a runaround instead.

Got a better sound clip today. Got carried away and forgot to change gear at one point!