TonyGoose

One of them you may be able to gut like that ... For the other though, your screwdriver would need to be seriously deformed :duh:

Not sure if this is relevant for an auto box so apologies if not... Switch off any traction control for dyno testing.

Shux The one i saw at the dealer had the dash all out and everything... Looked a very sorry state - replacing a loom i think ... The owner had recently had the windscreen replaced. The firm that did it got the HHHUUUUUGGEEE bill for putting it right Held that bit back earlier so as not to scare you :) Anyway, good that's it's fixed B)

Specially if the new one is a right minger :D

I think the belt slipped on your 'CAPS LOCK' key too ... :)

I think you'd be best looking stateside for that ... Not much happening on the s/c IS300 scene here i don't think. Much more of it in the US. Neil may have some pointers... think he looked at some. As for being the same engine... I'll pass on that - no idea. I expect Colin / Mat or someone else will know for sure. Stand by - much more informative answers to follow i hope

Looks like someone's been in and tidied the workshop a bit :)

Anything is possible... No there are no pre-outs... You may struggle for replies as i'm sure many are tired of answering this question. It's covered soooooo often around here. May i suggest use of the very easy to use search facility on these boards. Who knows, you may even find a guide on how to add your own pre-outs B)

A bowler hat may be more appropriate :zee:

There's that thing with the ignition switch that has this effect too. Had it a couple of times... not lately though. When taking the key out of the ignition, if it doesn't click you can't lock the car with the remote. Pop the key back in the ignition and out again... 'click'... Locks up no problem..

Have you got 14k from the original tyres ? If so, count yourself lucky. Out of interest are they bridgestone or dunlop ? They may be shot to the point where even correcting alignment doesn't stop them wearing unevenly. On the handling front, other than alignment / tyres, maybe worn bushes or a duff shock ?

This may or may not be relevant.... On a visit to my local dealer a year or so ago ... They had a car in the workshop which was doing similarly strange things. Turned out it was a windscreen leak allowing water in behind the dash.

People who can't spell and don't know basic grammer ... I'm better than you :P

Hose leak between blower and throttle body somewhere ?

What curious timing - the posting of this performance guarantee ... :D

Not really - it takes about 15mins to swap back to n/a.

Many happy returns fellas.... (not of the tax kind obviously) :)

impressive how well informed some of them were about the cause they're supporting.... One of them 'read the leaflet' in the car on the way to the photo shoot.. errr, i mean charity recording. :eerrrmm: <_<

People who stir their coffee.... and then use the wet spoon for sugar. Thus leaving what look like mouse droppings in the sugar. For crying out loud, why not put sugar in first then add water... It'll dissolve the sugar that much better and save the mouse crap. Oh yeah and on a similar theme... Why have 2 sugars then give your drink 1 turn of the spoon as a stir... Yes you have 2 sugars but 1.5 of them are left unstirred at the bottom you bloody pinhead !! I can see this one running and running :) :)

NO! I'm VERY expensive :D It was just a suggestion.. It's what we did on my car with a manifold Nemesis found somewhere or other. I've got a decatted standard one now so probably not the best guinea pig. Best would be someone with s/c and standard manifold still with cats in place. Dyno as it is.. s/c + stock manifold. Unhook blower belt + swap airbox etc.. dyno n/a + stock manifold. Install new manifold.. dyno n/a + new manifold. Put s/c bits back on.. dyno s/c + new manifold. That way you'll have a complete set of figures for n/a and s/c And if it can be done without damaging the donor car.. or leaving it at risk of catching fire.. then the experience will be better than mine as a manifold guinea pig Ha Ha - something i just noticed.... Nemesis backwards sounds like Sissy Men :D :D

Do you need an n/a car to test if you're already dynoing a s/c car ? Just unhook the blower belt and pop the standard airbox on... job done... Wouldn't even need to unhook the car off the dyno to do it.

Should be a vacancy in 'Grumpy Old Men' following the sad passing of John Peel. If it's any help, i'll gladly second you for the part :P As for the rehash... agree it's complete bollox. When i heard it was gonna be redone i thought to myself... Wonder who of the current crop of popstars is gonna organise it? Should have guessed - it's down to the same guys as last time. The current 'stars' are all just too busy being famous :yack: So it looks like just another photo opportunity for them...

You don't have to use the 'approved' repairer. Insurers can try and persuade you with 'free' courtesy car etc But it's your choice where your car is repaired.... I think i'd want any panel that's damaged to be replaced rather than filled.. Who's the 'approved' repairer out of interest mate ?

I always try to avoid mounting any hifi directly to metalwork. So only gets grounded where i want it (the ground wires). Helps avoid funny noises :) This may be old hat though.. Not done any worthwhile installs for a few years now.

Your 'diagram' of the 12 pin connector matches the pic in the book. Looks like only pins 9 + 10 are used (comms bus) and even then only if satnav is present. So, based on that, the 18 pin will be as per your second option - ie. 1-18 ... 1=B+, 3=Amp+, 5=SigGnd, 7=mute, 8=FL, 9=FR, 10=Acc, 12=Ant+, 14=Gnd, 16=beep, 17=RL, 18=RR Hope that helps