Geoffers

Nope - its a few hours tops. I killed mine when I was in Ireland and took some measurements to find out why. Takes over 30A [the complete system] even on a low volume. Multiply that that by a few hours and you well exceed any short burst turnover current. Thirty mins should be fine though.

Breakout

990,997

Clicky Here - other users issues And here

Sometimes holding the keyfob actually on the start button will do it. Can you get another vehicle around/close to yours? You can possibly block the signal. (The RAC and AA have had success with this) Have you been everywhere around the vehicle so different sensors will possibly pick up the keyfob? As stupid as this may seem, give it a try with a homemade waveguide like a metal collinder or pan or something pointing at the car and the keyfob in the centre. Go around the car. I realise you will look a bit of a dope though and probably think I'm winding you up!! I appreciate you can't roll it a few yards and try again this time of night but that's the first thing to try in the morning. There's someone else who can't park on his drive on here... can't think of who. Just stopped working one day in that spot. I think he was going to get Lexus to change the frequency. There is a possibility of course that there is a fault with the system, but more likely it is this.

Happens every now and again. Radio interference from routers, microwave ovens (usually from the control circuitry, not the magnetron so don't panic) or anything that generates a radio signal can potentially interfere. It could be a one off due to any number of factors. If it happens often where you park, Lexus can change frequency which may solve your problem, it just depends what and how the signal is being blocked/distorted. I know a couple of spots that I cannot go to as the key simply will not work, even with it touching the start button.

Congratulations. Some good news at last.

Happy Birthday Fella! :yahoo: :yahoo:

Ooooer missus. Back to the sunblind, on mine you have to move forward again for it to return, yet Treborlex's was slightly different if I remember. (Mines on a 56 plate). Rob can you remember how yours was? I think it is a firmware issue rather than a fault as such.

Happy Birthday fella! :yahoo: :yahoo:

Didn't you say the Aerial already has its own ground screwed to the body work? If so then no - you just need those positive signals - Perm + switched Double check those colours first though as they sometimes change between versions of the same car (They do on the IS series)

Yes mate. I don't know what those other feeds are, I'm assuming they are control up/down batt+b, perm, motor ret. etc. as yours has these built in so yes, disregard them and make them safe. What I do know is that you have the switchgear inside your aerial and need only those feeds. Use the largest positive feed you have that is perm +12v. I'm assuming that fused wire but double check and change the fuse for the rating of your aerial.

The aerial you have has this switchgear already built in. The three wires coming out of the aerial sounds standard: Black - ground Red - Perm 12v Green - Switched 12v from radio output (or ignition for it to be activated by that) I don't have any diagrams for the GS300 but meter the relay box wires and you should find these outputs easily. (Or use a bulb connected to a couple of pieces of wire). White with black stripe is the earth.

. I think you dropped your wallet on the mezzanine floor there Tony........ :lol: :lol: .

. . Vorsprung Durch Wozza . .

That's Bull. Cars get lifted all the time. My mates Saab was last week - he saw it on the back of the truck! (Police got there in time luckily) You do have a crime number don't you? I can't see how they can dictate that at all.

Yep - Its a pain in the backside.

Ok, I'm trying to think back and it could be a mix of both!! Early models - 1 push is lock (inc. deadlock). Second disables interior sensors Later models - First press lock, second deadlock. Press and hold for 5 secs disables interior movement sensor. Better leave a window open tomorrow and check both the deadlocking and movement sensor - then clear it up for everyone. I'm puddled trying to remember

:o :o :o Oh dear !! :o :o :o Can you all confirm he didn't know his backside from his elbow ? I think that was 2001 onwards? I know it changed at some point. Actually, thinking about it and getting back to the ops question, shouldn't you hold it for 5 secs rather than press it twice on your year? Maybe I've got the order wrong. Bestter check it. Sit in your car and set it mate!! I'm going to look it up now.

Take the front engine cover off. Push down on each fixing tab and they then just pull out. Over where the lamps plug in, there is a plastic cover with metal strengthener on it. Look down and you will see it unclips. Bit awkward to get back on again the first time you do it. When you put the engine cover back on, you need to make sure you push the inners of the clips up so they are protruding out of the top of their holders. Then put them in place and push down so they are flush.

Hmmm... exactly what I was thinking... Also, the five flashes on your model mean you have disabled the internal movement sensor.

He's the Bright One, he's the Right One, that's our Wozza!

991,063

If you took out the board with the small slider pot on, just check it is correctly located. It monitors where the shelves are. Also, sometimes cleaning this slider solves the err3.

I think there's your answer then, need to check first that something hasn't been left disconnected. Yes - the satnav communicates with the OEM headunit. Whoever converted it would have bought a special lead or kept part of the board of the original headunit connected. Maybe whoever serviced it thought it was a little odd having part of a PCB in there or what appeared to be a useless lead? Either way, if you need a new lead you can get them from a guy on here called Fargo