Geoffers

Here you go. Just for ref, find the pic you want to show. Right click on it and "Copy image location" or similar depending on your browser. Then in your post, near the top are some icons. Move over each one for a description popup. Click on insert image and then paste what you have just copied.

Bet you can't see a thing now!!

Lol yeah... I was being unrealistic. His other stuff is amazing too - his demo is good but doesn't do him justice.

You might be lucky - I think it was around that time they changed it but can't be sure. You'll be ok mate. Either that or leave it off until there's a meet around your way?

If its the newer model, yes. If not you can route it down and connect it to the light cluster.

This could be it chaps! You just need to make sure it accepts a positive input pulse trigger - might be worth sending them a mail and asking.

Yep - its part of the switching. It would need to switch out the sides. You probably just haven't noticed them mate and it doesn't seem to make sense because they are too dim over the dips anyway but electrically its easier for them to stay on.

Just to bring a bit of light on the subject. Someone spent a lot of time on this. And before the discussions start on what it was developed on, it was done on an old ZX80 someone found in their loft and fitted it into 1k.... none of that silly bloatware nonsense....... Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

A few missed off but quite good I thought: You'll know them all when you see them here but if I asked you to name 150 odd countries off the top of your head could you? Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I think you will be disappointed. For LEDs to throw any projection you are still talking megabucks. The ebay ones aren't in the same league. The photo's look good because of the exposure. See how you can still see dark parts on the front of the car? As Aido pointed out, look at the light on the road. It all depends on what you are after really as they can fill the reflector area really nicely and look quite good. I'm not a fan of driving around with fog lights on though as it has that stigma attached to it. Its probably different depending which area you are in. Might be worth putting a hid kit in if you want the projected light and the higher colour temp.

You've done a great job there mate. They will look brill when they're painted. I don't think they look that bad now actually. Spraying will be fine - it will take an awful lot of paint to stop the transducer working. If anyone is doing this or if you are doing another one, to save you a bit of time and save drilling a hole for the sensor wires to pass through, if you pop the light cluster out (couple of nuts, just pulls off), you will see a nice big gap to behind the bumpers where you can bring the wires underneath the cluster itself, then you can pass them through the same grommet that the lighting wires pass through.

Keep us informed Marc. @ Aido - we've seen enough of your Klingons over the years mate :lol:

You are correct - RA49 (or use the decoupling BX03D) .1uf is 100nf

1n4148. I would swap the .1uf (C1) cap on the input side too. Also, check R2 isn't shorted on the board. There's a spike getting through there :winky:

Nope - I'm afraid those timers won't work. Actually, yes they could if you were to modify them. This is because they rely on the timer starting when power is applied. There is nothing to apply the power because the alarm on signal only gives out a few mA. Therefore it needs its own power and uses the alarm PULSE to start the timing. You can adjust these and add the additional input circuitry to pin 2 but to do that you would also need the output relay as most are single pole. The mirrors need changeover. For all the hassle, it would be easier and cheaper building one from scratch. You are looking for a timer that has selectable input trigger. Yes but you'll need the rest of the components as well. Also, the relay you have listed is just the relay socket, not the relay itself. I'm sure if you went into Maplins with the parts list off the project they would sort them all for you. Its not that critical really so equivalents would be ok. .

None that I know of mate - you're going to have to build it I'm afraid. There's a couple of people on here who have found a virtually complete timer but that was a while ago.

Your English is great, don't worry - I can't speak any Dutch or Frisian I'm ashamed to say. The sync on these screens needs to be a quite high. The sync is taken directly from the composite side. Anything with a slightly lower output will affect it. On your unit, can you alter it at all? If so, increase it. If not, you can make a simple sync amplifier like so: You can either connect directly to the composite in for the sync or connect inline with the sync output of your converter.

I know a little bit about these. What's up?

Great stuff. Do you have your fan control on auto? I think that dictates it but I can't quite remember. If not, try lowering the temperature slightly next time it faults and see if it lets you then.

Great news. Congratulations mate.

For the content of the Torrent, yes. Actually using a torrent client and downloading with it isn't illegal as it is a communications protocol. Quite a few companies use this for distributed filesharing across their wans. The problem is, the average home user isn't going to be doing that with their normal data and will more than likely be using it for music, videos, etc. The assumption is made that these are illegal downloads and not your own or paid for media. Some ISP's are making it part of their terms and conditions and sending out letters based on traffic moving across certain ports on the assumption people were doing this, but it was nothing more. The letters were very cleverly worded. Some people along with this were having their contracts cancelled or bandwidth throttled due to high downloads and commonly used torrent ports open. ISPs generally have no [legal] proof you are downloading copyrighted/protected media. It takes an awful lot of get a court order to monitor someone traffic directly as it covers quite a few separate laws. Sharing a few films every week isn't going to do it. If you are going to use a torrent client, (for legal reasons obviously) use something like utorrent which can pick a random port for you or use one that is used by another protocol. This will prevent the port triggers at the ISPs. You can do a search and see which ISPs allege to monitor their ports.

Excellent, whats the deal with repairing it? is it a replacement or can i take it out and give it a good clean? thanks Sorry - Stav maybe right - the passenger side affects the ability to roll up the windows before it is opened. I thought it was the lights too but I may be wrong. You can check if that side works the same way - the interior light should come on when the door is opened. (the the switch is in the right position of course). Only the rear light though don't forget. I used to hate the fact the front one never came on. Either way, you know that it is the door switch now. As Stav says, B pillar, about third of the way up. Pull back the rubber cover and you will see a single screw. Unscrew it and pull out gently or the connector will pop off and stay in the pillar. You can clean them up and grease them but they usually go again once they've started so you may need a new one (or pair). I'm not sure what is happening with the alarm, but if the contact on the door is iffy, it will be confusing the system anyway. You could try swapping with the rear ones for now. Keep us informed.

Could be the driver door switch. Especially with you saying about locking after 30 secs - it should only do that if a door hasn't been opened. If it doesn't recognise it then you will get this happening. Also explains the headlights staying on too is it doesn't know you've opened the door to get out. Does the interior lamp come on when you get in? Have a play with the switch and see if the lamp works every time. As well as that, as a test just lean over and open the front passenger door the next time the headlights stay on. If they go off you know its the drivers doorswitch.

Only way really is to dry it out and find out where it is getting in. Have a look at THIS thread discussing it in a little more detail.

reprisal