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Geoffers

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Everything posted by Geoffers

  1. Looks like it will just prise out. I found it easier pushing to one side first. Guess it just releases some of the pressure on the clip. Then the bulb just twists out like any other batten holder.
  2. The whole perspex holder itself should slide quite easily to one side, then they should come forward at an angle so you don't break the connector at the back. I'll see if I've got a pic.
  3. I've not long been talking to him about the heater switch in the Hilux.... guess you got it working then Mat.... I told you not to short out ALL the pins......
  4. I can only answer for the 250sel, but it is the lower part of the windscreen that is heated, not all of it. Also, there is a windscreen clearing button near your rear heated screen button but only seems to be effective if you have the fans on auto. It does take a little while to warm up but is better if it climate/fans are on auto. Nothing happens for the first couple of minutes then they kick in with the heat.
  5. Those signs that tell you your speed and nothing else wind me up. There's one on a bypass not far from where I live. You see all the idiots trying to get the fastest speed on them and filming it with their mates! Totally negates their purpose. Sorry,
  6. You had better be quick because you've just triggered the word trap. They're after you now Stav....
  7. lol, yeah - the wrong way around, fill your drive and do you for it....
  8. Cheers Tony, I get this when I first pull off going forward too. Only ever first thing, on full lock......
  9. yeah - its the one thats got the break in.....
  10. Not sure on the voice quality - I was wondering that myself. It will be a case of trying it I'm afraid. Do you have the same on getting into the car? i.e. its just the driver side? If so, it may be linked to the driver or all option. To change the central locking (this is on the IS250 so hopefully will be the same) press and hold BOTH lock and unlock on the keyfob while you are inside the car for about 5 secs I think it is. I can't remember if it's with ignition on or off. Do the same to toggle it between all doors or just driver. Worth a shot.
  11. 7.5A Dome but there is some control from the ECU. You would have noticed other odd things out if it was the mpx-b/ecu fuses (like the temp gauge, etc) so I'd go for that, or just the bulbs gone. If all the fuses are ok, check the earth in the lamp holder itself its quite common.
  12. Ok, I only have one picture (the most awkward power to pinch from). The easiest one is if you look under the kneeguard and back up towards the ignition (easier with the kneeguard off) you'll see a large thick white wire with a red stripe. That is a nice meaty Permanent 12v. Here's the other one that is more difficult but again, a nice meaty perm. 12v. The thick white wire.
  13. Good idea but I wouldn't do that that because you need to draw nearly two amps for the mirrors and the output to the lamps comes from the cabin ecu - the current drain would be too much for it really. Plus, it switches off when you set the alarm. There are a couple of live feeds under the dash. Let me dig out a few pics and I'll post them here.
  14. On the one he is selling, the increments are set. On the variable it is more precise. This won't matter that much for the mirrors but if you are doing more in the future that is triggered from this then it may do. If they are the same price, you might as well get the variable one.
  15. It looks that way yes. Oh, and a box for it! Just make sure you are certain with the relay connections though.
  16. Paul - you may have found it mate. It certainly looks like it this is the one - it even has the correct relay so really you just need a box. Keep us informed.
  17. Sounds like an aftermarket one but at least all the wires will be there. Any competent installer you get should be able to trace them easily enough.
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