redz_UK

Sweet!!! so the gas strut should hold it then!! wohoo!!! back on plan!! Props to Monster Mat.. he seems to answer all my questions!!!

thats not the problem.. i was thinking of putting 2 8"subs in there but they tensioners are in the way.. might have tp give it a miss..

looks interesting, i guess two struts set at the same pressure should work in theory. form reading the post they sound a bit violent though!! maybe once the bot is packed out with sound deadening it may be heavier and raise slowly... expensive experiment though..

hmmm... they are in my way!! anybody know of any mods to remove em? gas struts maybe?

be very hard to get to the rear lights from the bonnet!! i think it meant to read boot!! :winky:

has anybody removed the boot tensioners? at least i think thats what they are? under the parcel shelf. two metal bars running form one side to the other of the boot bracket thingys?? what problems occur if removed?

split folding rear seats?? how dooes that work when there is a metal divider?? would be very interested in seeing that as it would help my plans no end!!

so does this mean that i cant seal off that area of the boot too?? can rock wool (or loft insulation type stuff) be packed in there? it wouldnt get cold and would gues that if it can survive in a loft then it should be ok as the same temp extremes as the car??

I've noticed these too, taking them off makes it easier to run cable to the boot, i think their there for strengthening so i made sure i put them back. Yeah they ar the entrance for the fuel pump etc, dont see much harm in covering them, only the same as the seat on top of them. I think they do serve a function to do with keeping the boot dry etc. I think anyway, best leave them uncovered. Hope that helps. Stav dont cover the plates under the seat of the air vents in the rear quarters ok.. kind of guessed not to cover the plates under the seats. any reason for not covering the rear quarter vents? i was going to fill this void with sound deadening material, rock wool or similar.. it woill be sealed off from the boot anyway??

I have stripped the lexus in order to dynmat the car before my install and have come across a few things that i was hoping somebody could answer.. does anybody know what the two kidney shaped metal plates are on the rear panel behind the rear seats? they bolt off/on but dont appear to serve any function?? under the rear seat bench there are two panels bolted in with plastic bolts and have wires going into them?? are they the fuel pump or something?? need to know if i should take off and dynamt under, then bolt back on, dynamat straight over the top or dynamat around and leave it well alone!! in the boot, what function do the plastic air vent things do that are behind the boot trim? can these be covered or do the serve some function other than let air in/out? ie anything to do with the aircon? this area is going to be filled with lagging hopefully.. answers on a post(card)! phew... now i can relax until tomorrow!!

unless something drastic changed today then its post 01 models only.

dont forget nottingham using WIM settings.. they did it on site while i waited..

i am trying to do just that.. however the box is rather large!! in 11 years i have never had to use a spare but know as soon as i take it out then i will need it!! wish it was located under the car and not in the boot!

yeah, have thought of that, woukd also mean losing the weight of the wheel which would be a good thing with all the extar weight im putting in!! just wanted to cover all options.. is tyre weld any good?? how long can you travel on it and does it do any damage to wheel or tyre?

i need to lose the spare wheel out of the recess in the boot due to my ice install.. however i dont wnat to lose a spare alltogether so i was wondering if there are any of the space saver wheels that may do the job??

swear by the falkens fk452.. over 10k and still look mint! holds the road well and doesnt sound noisy to me! a few of the others on here have these and at the price you get them for a great purchase!!

you should be fine with ground as standard, a good solid ground from batt to alt is prob the most you will need and a good qulity gorund as close to your amps as possible. only run one +ve from batt to the boot and then split in the boot with fused distribution block.. looks like you got a bargain on the car!!

like the front but can you get the fogs in too?

i liked the visage bofy kit but not sure if the front is a bit OTT, sides and rear are great!! c west front looks ok but need a beter pic, some of the chrgespeed looks good.. im after an agressive front but not too wide or ott...

coolio.. will do.. any other sites you would recomend??

i guess this is the same as urethane?? what about the kits that TDI supply??

well they say 100% guaranteed fit and the encouraging thing is that they differentiate between is300 and is200. whats the best materials or worst materials?? why is that good ? They are the same............... beware US kits will not fit without mods just that at least they are know that there are two diff models and list them that way. im guessing that if its sold specifically for the is300 then its american kits?? not sure, thats why im asking for advice on here!! i like a few of the kits and both are japanese.. @prolex - if you have any kits availiable then i could be interested.. i like the look of the visage and the c west

well they say 100% guaranteed fit and the encouraging thing is that they differentiate between is300 and is200. whats the best materials or worst materials??

Has anybody ever dealt with www.madmotors.co.uk they seem to have a lot of kits and looks like good but looks can be deceiving!!

anybody know what body kit that is??