Kiriyama

Can anyone tell me how to remove my locking nuts without a key? I had my tyres changed in March and it looks like the garage damaged the key to my locking nuts. Yesterday, I tried to remove my rear wheel to change the brake discs / pads but found that as I turned the key, the 3 holes in the locking nut started to warp (by the way, ALL wheel nuts had been ridiculously overtightened!). I gave up and today, sent my Lexus to another garage to get the brakes fitted and played dumb about the damaged key and locking nut. As expected, they got the wheels off and never mentioned having any problems but now I've had chance to check their work, this is what I've found : They'd clearly hammered some kind of toothed socket over the top of the nut to get hold of it because you can see 'tooth' marks all round it. The locking nuts on both rear wheels are knackered. Not only is this annoying because I want to paint my calipers but it also means that if I get a puncture, I can't change the wheel! I want the locking nuts out, whether I knacker them or not because they won't be going back in. Any ideas? Anybody know what kind of socket I'd need and where to get one? I understand that they're there for security reasons so if you'd rather PM me, that's fine.

Well my car is in the garage. I dropped it off just before 9 and they said they'd get straight on it. As yet, I haven't had a call about the locking nut but we'll see, maybe they're too busy trying to force a socket over it Fingers crossed and all that.

Hi ithier. I've never changed them myself so can't offer much advice in that regard but as for the Mintex pads, there are sellers on ebay who sell Mintex discs and pads together as a set. I've just bought a set of REAR pads and discs for £89.99 + £12.95 p&p. Here is a set of FRONT discs and pads from the same seller for £72 + £11.95 p&p.... item # 260244847602 There are cheaper sets on there but I found that with those, only the pads were named as Mintex, not the discs. As for the pins etc, I was in Halfords yesterday and noticed that on the display next to the pads, they do fitting kits that I THINK include such things. Might be worth looking there.

Yep, got away with it. The shipping documents attached to the packaging included a letter thanking me for my help and offering me this 'gift' in return lol I wasn't so lucky with my GROM iPod adapter... b*st*rds! I know what you mean, I was a little sceptical too with them being so cheap but following recommendations from members who had bought similar, I decided to go for it. Only 'issue' was that one wire that connects to the ballasts has to be unplugged and turned over to work on the Lexus. Hardly a big job and luckily I'd also read about that here.

I bought some of these 2 or 3 months back... ebay # 170224663984 The parts look identical to some of the more expensive kits and I am very happy with the performance. I went for the 6000k set and they look great. My main beam looks REALLY yellow in comparison!

Nice one. I was thinking of spraying mine silver, are they easy to take off? I'm guessing you just pull the dials to remove them (?) but how do you then take the outer rim off? Or did you mask them?

Going to a small, independent place called Crossways garage in Stoke-on-Trent. On the phone they said it would be £40-50 but they don't know about the wheel nuts yet!

Decided to have a go myself. Hadn't really got a clue what to do but hoped that once I'd got the wheel off and could see that parts, everything would make sense. Failed at the very first part, getting the fu**in wheel off! The locking nut is rusty and the ***** what fitted my latest set of tyres seem to have over-tightened all of them. Some won't budge at all and when I tried to turn the locking nut, it started to warp! :tsktsk: Just waiting for a garage to get back to me with a price for fitting rear discs and pads so if it isn't too steep, I'll just plead ignorance about the locking nut and hope that they manage to get it off somehow.

hahah

Not sure what spec that guide was based on but when I came to do the GROM install, there was no need to take ANY screws out at that point. Just grab hold of that section of the centre console (I tipped the vents back, shoved my thumbs in and gripped the section above them with my fingers) and pull towards you, it just comes away. The 2 screws beneath the felt pad don't seem to serve any purpose other than to hold the pad in place! See: I have a standard spec IS200 Sport (1999 - V)

I'm really having to restrain myself from pointing out the sexual innuendo in that question but seriously, I could do with seeing a guide for changing rear pads as well. Anyone?

Ry, check out this tutorial posted by SteJ in which he also paints the part you are talking about. He chose a kind of matt grey colour that wouldn't distract from the caliper or alloy. clicky-> Caliper painting by SteJ Sample pic from that thread:

I was worried he might think I was taking the p**s id I asked that, lol. I didn't realise at first either

LOL sold them mate on Ebay, A member on here bought them. :o I thought you were going to have trouble shifting them, lol

Bit of a late response (I don't usually check this section) but they look exactly how I want mine to look. I'd already decided on red but hadn't ordered the stickers because I couldn't decide whether to go for white or chrome. Chrome it is! Also, a mate of mine with a Mitzubishi FTO has referbished his own wheels and they look pretty good so I'm planning to do mine. I currently have the standard, silver, 5 spoke oem wheels but I'm going to do them in a really dark grey kind of colour. Should look cool with red calipers I reckon B)

Completely unrelated I know but just a tip having looked at your photos. The Heated Seat and Traction / Snow switches can be swapped over quite easily. For how often you use them it won't effect how they're used but to me at least, they look better with the TC/Snow switch in the middle. In case you're interested: * Reach under the switches to the very back and you'll be able to hook your fingers behind the plastic housing. * Pull towards you and the housing will come away from beneath the head unit. * Disconnect the electrical connections from the rear of the drivers heated seat switch and TC/Snow switch. * Remove the switches by squeezing the clips on either side of them. Can't remember if the switches pop out of the front or the * back but you'll see anyway. * Swap them over and push back into place. * Reconnect the wires (can't get them the wrong way round, both seat connections are the same but not the TC/Snow) * Slide the housing back into position. Beautiful symmetry :winky:

I have a set going spare Wish I could, mate

Wonder if Stav still has the chrome number plate surrounds to match?

What's derv?

I've seen those on a 200 before and liked them. Didn't realise they were off a 250.

I don't get the whole chrome thing either I'm afraid. Maybe on a hotrod where everything else is chrome. If you like them then that's the main thing :)

Nice, mate. You got any mods planned?

Will do mate. Not sure how easy it will be to judge their performance with them being on the back but I'll be honest either way.

I'd imagine economy would suffer slightly if you add more weight anywhere on the car though. Just learn to love it, be brave and let that back end go