E910

Sounds like all the expensive bits have been done for you, good score. Just need a sports/aero grill to finish off the Legan front bar ;)

Give the throttle body & MAF sensor a clean. That should help

After a 2nd read this sounds like a flat battery to me. Try a different/new battery or a jump start. I flattened mine the other week listening to the stereo & it wouldn't start even with 10-11v left in it. It just clicked away rather than struggling to start. I had to get a jump start from a mate in the end after checking every fuse/relay etc.

You said the cam belt broke. You are aware that these are interference engines?! I assume you took the head off to inspect for any damage inside before installing a new cam belt?

One of these might work http://www.gromaudio.com/store/usb_adapter...m-usb2-toy.html

Do you have a link? Only ones I can find are in the states & are USD$46 for the pair which is pretty reasonable.

Get you money back if you can. I'm sure you can do them for false adverting or the likes. You should have got Iridium plugs too. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NGK-IRIDIUM-IX-SPARK...=item3c9d2ce583 BKR6E11 is the performance version of IFR6T11. Alternatively you could use Denso IK20. Have you got a pic of the actual plugs you received?

Yep the higher the octane fuel you can use the better. I run 98 in mine. Have tried our local E10 biofuel & it didn't like it but the lads in Ireland run their stuff alright. I run 95 when I'm in a place where 98 isn't available & you can feel the difference. It just doesn't want rev as well or pull as hard.

http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/GS_97-...ents/index.html

It can be quiet dangerous having two different tread patterns on the same axle, not so bad if they're different front to back or vise versa. It wouldn't pass a MOT here but then I guess that all comes down who's checking. Some guys can be pretty slack. I'd make an issue of it & get them to put two tyres the same on as they've sold it to you in an unsafe state that isn't up to MOT standards.

No one ever said Altezzas where fast Although once you get them wound up over 5K they go alright. Basic mods to start with after the air filter would be some Iridium spark plugs (NGK or Denso). Upgrade the earthing system. Clean the MAF sensor & throttle body. Replace the gear box oil with some RedLine MT-90 & diff oil with some 75w90 or 80w140 fully synthetic. Put some fully synthetic 5w30 or similar grade in the engine. Basically after doing all this it'll make it run like new again & maybe gain you a few HP. If you want to get 240bhp out of it, you'd be looking at replacing the ECU with something like an Apexi Power FC, some mild cams, headers & possibly ITBs. Then swap the OE dual mass flywheel for a solid lightweight aftermarket unit from JUN or TRD. You could go silly with a stroker kit but you'd be better of spending the same money on turboing it IMO. Unfortunately there's no cheap 'n easy power upgrades for these things. As for sourcing parts there's plenty of places on the net that'll ship direct from Japan like Nengun, JPS & ACNZA TezzaWorld & Altezza Club NZ are two good forums you should have a look at to get some ideas. Don't forget to upgrading the suspension as it's well worth doing. Then you can enjoy the increadable chassis these things have to the fullest.

Like Yeldarb said you'll definitely get a louder exhaust. You may regret it if you have the 3SGE as they can become unpleasantly noisy very quickly with the wrong exhaust mods. As for power gains that all depends on what condition the cat is in. Personally I'd save my money & spend it elsewhere on the car. Also pod filters are more trouble than they're worth on these cars. Just get a hi-flow panel filter. P.S. turn your caps lock off :winky:

I'd say the TTE IS will win off the line but the RS would soon real it in once the S/C runs out of puff & the 1G out of revs. The RS is a 5AT where as the IS is only 4AT right? So the RS would have that to it's advantage. As for torque the auto RS make its max (216Nm) at 4800rpm (compared the manual at 6400rpm) so it should have a bit more mid-range. Would be an interesting battle. Anyone care to make it happen? Oh & get a manual if you want to drift :P

Silver FTW!

Altezza's didn't come standard with a factory fitted immobiliser or alarm. Looking at the accessory flyer there was an optional alarm (check out the remote LOL). Not sure what brands you guys get in the UK to recommend but get something with 3 immobilisers, shock sensor & a glass break sensor which is what I have.

TezzaWorld might be a good place to look. There's plenty of Altezza's in Ireland so I would imagine there'd be a few in the breakers by now.

One of the lads on ACNZA had it made up. Bit of a waste of time & money IMO as it's identical to the factory manifold. The cat bolts up to the secondary's. I only think the rear muffler/back box is the same between the IS & RS. I'm sure a decent exhaust shop could make up what you need other wise there's plenty of sites like RHD, JPS & Nengun that ship JDM performance parts worldwide. If you get something custom made don't forget to add a few mufflers/resonators to it otherwise it'll be stupid loud & tinny. Here's what my Kakimoto Racing Regu.92-Z system looks like

No that wont fit a 3SGE. This is what the secondary pipe looks like & the primary's

You can get new sets from Australia http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...ic=5654&hl= Email this guy for pricing etc stephen@altezzaclub.org.au http://web.aanet.com.au/Lexus/Irresistible_Parts.jpg

What's freight going to be like importing a one off engine?. Do they have any Japanese engine importers in Norway? Ireland might be a good place to look as there's lots of Altezza's there. Over here in NZ you can pick up a complete 3SGE & J160 package for £1200. IS200 already run large 2 pots callipers as used on the SC400, GS300 etc. Maybe just some better pads & up-rated brake fluid would be all that's needed if you went down the turbo route. As for up-rating the undercarriage?? Do you mean TRD braces etc? Not really necessary but would help. Lowering it on quality struts & spring would be a good place to start along with front & rear strut braces.

Yep it's a simple as that. Just make sure the car is parked on a dead flat level surface otherwise it'll screw up your handling/alignment.

Of course strut braces do something. The stop flex in the strut towers under load. They're a very good cheap handling mod. You'll wonder how you ever lived without them once you've fitted one. I've got front & rear braces on mine. The one you've linked looks cheap but it should do the trick. I've got HKS Kansai ones on mine

http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=8708 I think you have to be a member to view it (I am). There's a copy of a workshop manual also available to paid up VIP members

Here's a wiring diagram if it's any help to you http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/IS_98-...l.php?code=r_37 Looks like the ABS & TRC share the same 60amp fuse. If that had blown I assume the ABS light would be on as well. Could be the TRC switch is faulty & doesn't close the circuit when pushed. You could try wiring around it like these Japanese guys have so TRC is permanently disabled when you turn the car on. (*note*you can turn it back on for when your mum is driving the car). http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja