E910

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=50512 Might want to check front ball joints & sway bar links as well.

They're generally very hard rubber so not much grip but will last for years. As the others have said, your tyres are the only thing holding you on the road. Don't skimp on them.

What model did you get? I had ECSTA Supra 712 on my car when I got it & they're crap in the wet & dry. Although they're lots of fun if you want to do skids but no good if you want to drive fast & not fall off the road. I'm running Bridgestone Potenza RE001 now but they're only available in the Australasian market as far as I'm aware. They're a very good tyre. Asymmetric seems to be the way of the future.You can get Toyo T1R pretty cheap from the likes of www.blackcircles.com OE size 215/45 R17 are only £68 each excluding fitting. The aforementioned Falken FK-452 are also very good. If they're still to much I'd maybe look at Nexen & Hankook.

Most Rev/Speed Meters like Apexi & Sard will remove the speed cut on an Altezza. You can also get stand alone Speed Cut Defenders from Greddy & HKS.

This guy can get genuine toyota/lexus parts at competitive prices & ships overseas http://www.tezzaworld.com/viewforum.php?f=40 or email him nick@nst.co.nz if you can't view the link. Ball Joints going unnoticed is quiet common on these cars. We have a similar issues here as well. http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...ic=9466&hl=

I use Meguiars Gold Class on mine with good results. AutoGlym have a good rep also.

RedLine MT-90 FTW!! I've got it in mine & it's fantastic stuff. Others that are safe to use include TRD 75W90 & Amsoil 75W90. I'm sure you are well aware that you can't use anything higher than a GL4 rated oil in the J160 box. Where to get in the UK http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1020-redline-s...75w-90-gl4.aspx

and if I'm on a budget? Well K-Sport is at the lower end of that market aren't they. If you can afford a Japanese brand like TEIN, HKS or euro stuff like TTE & Bilstein then go for it but I'd avoid cheap stuff like D2 & K-Sport.

You'd be better off with BC Racing IMO if you're on a budget.

Solenoids are a replace only item unfortunately. There can be anywhere up to 8 in a trans but it's probably only one causing the trouble. Pretty specialist job working on an auto trans so no it wont be easy or cheap, that's why I recommended trying a flush. Is yours a 4 or 5 speed? Maybe have a chat to your local lexus dealer & see if they've ever stuck the problem before.

If it's just happening between 2 gears then I say it's more than likely to be a shift solenoid. I'd try a flush & new oil as it should improve things & will be a hell of a lot cheaper than pulling the box to bits.

Yep a bit of T-cut & elbow grease will work a treat. I've got one head light that's a bit faded on mine also. I've used Mothers pre-wax cleaner on it with good results. Only problem is it dulls again quickly. There are more specific products on the market you could try like Wynn's headlight restorer

The look like the Waffenschmiede one ACNZA did a group buy on last year. Bit hit n miss with the build quality & noisy. When we emailed the guy about the issues we had he didn't reply to us. I sold mine in the the end as I got sick of the rattle it made & got a TRD which is far superior IMO. Have a read here on what people thought of them & make up your own mind... http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=6893 http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...?showtopic=8220

Sounds like you need better tyres mate. My Altezza was pretty loose in the wet with the Kumho's that came on it. Have since replaced them with Bridgestone Potenza RE001 & they're much better. You have to force it to loose traction now

You can get a kit from Figs so you can use Supra disc & stock IS callipers with OE 17". Should give a little improvement in stopping power & big improvement in aesthetics without requiring spacers.

Figs do adapters for Supra calipers onto IS http://www.figsprops.com/brake.htm

Speaker wiring is as follows OEM Plug Side - Speakers RH F + = Green RH F - = Blue LH F + = Pink LH F - = Purple RH R + = Red RH R - = White LH R + = Black LH R - = Yellow ref http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf Power wiring here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...mp;#entry686374 Like ormi said if you have the factory amp you will need a by-pass lead.

As far as I was aware you just use the standard bolts. Maybe see if you can get hold of some ARP ones if you want something a little stronger. http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/drive-tr...t/index.html?en

Nice. I have the same Kakimoto exhaust on mine. Did you notice much difference over the standard system? Would really like some headers though. How you finding the under body handling with the braces?

You don't need a step incline just enough to make to radiator filler neck the highest point in the system. To help you can use a empty coke bottle to raise the highest point even more. Fill the said bottle with water then place neck down into the radiator with the vehicle running. You'll see the air bubbles rise into the bottle & the water level drop as the air is replaced with water.

Yep those are the links These are an example of stiffer sway bars http://www.tte.de/popup/Lexus/cm_lexus_IS2...abilizerkit.htm

Get a stiffer rear sway bar. That'll fix it. Also check the links aren't worn.

Remember to adjust the hand brake at the shoes first before adjusting the lever.

KYB shortened shocks & Tanabe springs. About a 60mm drop

1.95L for the gearbox