johnatg

That's not how the IS models are arranged. There's no radiator cap as such - the pressure cap is located on the thermostat housing and is described as the 'Radiator pressure cap'. The header tank has a non-pressure cap. I suspect the OP has a head gasket problem. You don't necessarily get mayonnaise or other signs of oil leakage into the oil. The water can just go one way through a failing gasket - the failure point can act as a one way valve. Relatively small amounts of water don't show up in the exhaust - my MX-5 has water injection and nothing shows in the exhaust! I agree with Terence - you need a pressure check - sooner rather than later.

When you put new pads in the pistons have to be fully retracted into the housings (even with solid discs) . I don't see how there could be room for wider discs. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I would think you have no chance of getting it fixed under warranty. If it's not too bad, sand down the damaged area to get it as smooth as you can (doesn't need to be perfect) then touch it up with matching paint - something like Halfords Wheel Silver, maybe, if your wheels are the original colour, or look in the car paint greys or whatever if they have been refinished in something darker. You might need to experiment a bit to get a good match - perhaps even mix two colours. Be careful not to get paint on the tyre - that looks awful. Then it will hardly show. It won't be your last scuff. Eventually your wheels will blister (if they haven't already) or get altogether too scuffed and then you can think about a proper wheel refurb job. If it is really bad, you could contact a local smart repair operator, but that's relatively expensive and as I said, it won't be the last scuff - wheels with low profile tyres scuff very easily.

They wouldn't be refurbished if they came from Lexus Liverpool - I would think they would only sell new stuff. (Brake factors sell refurbished ones). I bought a pair (note you should always replace brake components both sides at the same time) just over 4 years ago and they were described as modified. Don't get too excited - they look exactly the same as the old ones and they are just as liable to seize the slider pins - mine went sticky after the standard year and I've cleaned and greased the pins annually since fitting. I'm not sure, but it's possible these £79.99 ones are for solid discs (as I have). The vented disc versions are different (wider to accommodate the thicker disc). Has anyone with vented discs paid this 'bargain' price? (not that you wouldn't have paid anything if Lexus had designed the things properly in the first place). (Note for newcomers here - this all refers to rear brakes)

Excellent - I have never noticed any degradation when wet. Of course, the holes and grooves in the discs probably help.

Depends where you are in Cheshire. Two places I can recommend: 1) Highams, Alderley Edge (close to Alderley Edge station which might be handy) 01565 582223 or probably lower cost: 2) Technocars - ask for Simon - they are a bit in the middle of nowhere on a farm in Marthall, near Chelford. They could probably give you a lift to Alderley Edge or Knutsford. 01565 873588 Simon would fit your own parts - not sure about Highams (some garages aren't happy to do that - they feel they loose control re warranty etc) Don't use a dealer whatever you do. You probably don't need new calipers - the pins should/may free up - but dealers won't even try.

I have just replaced my EBC Redstuff pads with another set of the same. They lasted 26000 miles. I did say some time back that I would use Yellowstuff next time as I have experienced fade on a couple of occasions but only under extreme conditions - I know a few roads where I can guarantee to get the brakes to fade point (in any car) if there's no traffic and I'm in the mood! But I have since discovered that Redstuff are claimed to be the only pads which don't contain metal (they are Kevlar/Ceramic) - this means they produce very little dust and what dust they do produce is easily washed off. Yellowstuff are more heat resistant but they contain metal (as do all other pads, apparently) and they produce a lot of dust and like most brake dust it will be a pig to get off - the metal particles eat into the paint on the wheel. This tallies with my experience and talking to people who use Yellowstuff (mostly on race cars). Hence my sticking with Redstuff. Both Redstuff and Yellowstuff are expensive - about £90 for Red and £105 for Yellow. I use MTEC drilled and grooved discs - they are still in good condition after one set of Redstuff pads.

Next up for ULEZs - Birmingham, Leeds, Nottingham, Derby and Southampton by 2020. I checked mine against the 'check your vehicle' list (which actually is the London checker) - shows I'd have to pay. I can see some disputes coming up!

Knackered battery? Is it the original? Modern batteries do tend to fail without much, or any, warning. It might respond to a charge.

I have one from Laser - lasertools.co.uk - tool no 4880. It has three cutouts on one side and one on the other, but actually I think the filter housing only has one lug on each side. It looks pretty much identical to the one I referenced. Don't know where it's made but I'm afraid almost everything is made in China these days - even if the packaging is made in UK! They are available on eBay and Amazon, but I notice there is a rather cheaper one available from Sealey (also reputable) on Amazon. That has three cutouts each side. Dunno why the number of cutouts varies - maybe for other applications.

No problem! Pleased that you take an interest in us! 😊

There are quite a few ads for housings on eBay - mostly from China or USA. But it's only an ally can - the chinese ones should be perfectly OK. Cost about £12. (Look for IS250 ones - they are the same for IS220D) One odd thing - the specified torque setting for IS250 housing is 18 ft.lb - for the IS220D it's 30 ft.lb

This is the IS forum! All IS models have a non-disposable casing - you need the correct tool to remove and retighten it ( eg this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/64-5mm-14-Flute-Oil-Filter-Socket-Remover-Removal-Tool-For-Toyota-3-8-Drive/122345149365?hash=item1c7c56d3b5:g:WbMAAOSwQiFadeNJ ) Note the cut-outs in the rim - they are the vital bits which engage with lugs on the casing and are the reason why any old filter removal tool will not do. Tightening torque is 18ft. lbs. - do not tighten it further. I use K&N filter element inserts. Genuine Lexus ones and other brands are readily available - they are just paper and an O-ring seal. (You get an extra O-ring and a plastic spacer, both of which you chuck away) Oil is a matter of choice - any 5W-30 fully synthetic will do and you need to change it every year or more often with even normal mileage. Lexus change interval is 12 months or 10000 miles - I change mine at 5000 miles. Extended interval oil changes threaten the life of the timing chains - and replacing them is a major, major job.

The fact is that it is almost impossible to remove an overtightened oil filter housing with conventional filter removal tools. The correct tool usually does the job, maybe with some difficulty. It might be worth applying a little bit of heat, very cautiously, to the housing, if all else fails. Correct tightening torque is 18ft lbs - not very tight at all.

According to the RAC, there is no website (as of Nov 2017) giving a comprehensive and correct listing of cars by registration number showing their Euro standard. Cars first registered after Jan 1 2006 had to be Euro 4 compliant (the standard became optional in 2005) - some registered before will have been. All IS250s are Euro 4 (at least) compliant. Quite how the authorities will administer this is beyond me if there is no definitive reference.

Yep - passenger side dash only. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I wouldn't worry too much - my car has always had a bit of crust as you describe - I bought it 6 years ago at 29500 - now on 65500. But keep an eye on the level of coolant in the header tank. Water pumps do seem to be a bit of a weak spot on the IS250 engine and are frequently changed before 90000 miles. How long a warranty have you got on the car? If there is any suspicion of a leak before it's expiry I would get the seller to change the pump (if you bought from a trade seller). A new pump can be bought for less than £100 from carparts4less and fitting is not too difficult if you have some diy capability - there is a photo or video guide on here somewhere.

I think you'll actually need to clear the fault code with Techstream. Then drive and see if it comes back.

If you put your reg no in on the CP4L first page and search for Brake Discs you will get a list of suitable parts. For my reg it only gives Eicher front discs and then a choice of vented or solid Pagid rear discs - they can't tell from the reg which rear discs IS250s have. (My car has solid rear discs - they changed to vented some time in 2007 in production.) If the Pagid discs you have found are listed under your reg they will fit. If they are under something else they may well not do - the diameter and thickness dimensions might be correct but the 'bell' part may not be.

Most of the service parts (even on the production line) are not made by Lexus but by a multitude of suppliers. They produce parts to Lexus specs and pack them in Toyota boxes but you can often buy exactly the same parts in manufacturers' own boxes. Many parts for Japanese cars are sourced on Europe and come from different suppliers from those in Japan =- they get packed in eg Toyota boxes for sale at premium prices or in the manufacturers' own boxes at a lower price. The trick is to sort out the quality produce from the dross! EuroCarParts and CP4L are the same company - CP4L invoices say EuroCarParts. CP4L is more or less the trade oriented version but it really makes no difference. The ranges listed can be slightly different but CP4L are generally cheaper even with the frequent ECP discounts - worth checking both though. I don't really buy stuff for the Lexus from either. Oil filters - I use K&N just because I like them. Buying a IS250 filter is not like buying a canister type one where the quality of construction of the can and its internals (eg anti drain back valve) mattered - IS250 filters are just paper and a sealing ring, along with a superfluous (for the IS250) o-ring and a curious bit of plastic which you don't need. Air filters - Toyota branded ones cost about £25. BluePrint are major suppliers of Japanese (and these days other brands) parts and are pretty much the standard suppliers to the independent garage trade. They produce (or rather package) parts to OEM spec and their air filters are readily available on eBay for less than £10. They don't sell direct to the public but there are plenty of vendors of BluePrint parts. I don't think there's much point in using cleanable oiled filters costing £50 odd when you can buy excellent paper ones for £10 and the scheduled change period is 40K miles - you can replace them twice as often and your wallet wont notice the difference. Oil - I have used Dexos2 (the branded GM product) for a long time, but the price has gone up over the years and I have now taken to using Exol Optima LSG 5W-30 which meets Dexos2 specification along with specs by MB, GM, BMW, VW etc. Not available in 5L cans but I buy 20L containers for about £60 and use a tap to decant it. 3 oil changes for £20 each and it's an excellent oil. Spark Plugs - only choice is Denso - I will soon be fitting IKBH20TT which is now the recommended (Iridium) plug. Wiper blades - you need Denso hybrid blades - other brand flat blades don't wipe the screen properly. Most economical is to buy replacement rubbers from Lexus (Birmingham on line, but all dealers sell them) Brake pads - EBC Red stuff or Yellow stuff. Discs - MTEC. And there's always RockAuto for more obscure parts which seem to be hard to get in UK. Their brands are a USA mystery - pick with a pin - there's usually a choice of manufacturer for the part you need. Just my opinions and my choices, but they keep my IS250 and various other cars which I look after going! (The other cars sometimes use different brands, but the same thought processes apply.)

Well a lot of cars, Mercedes, BMWs and Ford Fiestas in particular have been stolen in this way. The devices you can buy on Amazon and eBay for £257 work up to about 30 metres from the key, without obstruction. Metal and walls etc reduce the range but by some random amount. The further from the front of the house and the more metal in the way, the better. The Faraday pouch is a good idea, so obviously you do take it seriously - probably more so than the rest of us, until now!

I guess that's all true - there are reports today of the very low rate of house burglary attendance by the police, let alone detection or prosecution. And I would expect taking a car without intrusion into a house to be rated even less seriously than burglary. Keyless cars are more susceptible than just remote centrally locked cars because you can not only open the door but also start and drive the car without the key with one of these wireless devices. And central locking only remotes are generally passive until you press a button - they don't respond to an enquiry signal so these responder devices don't work with them. There are some things you can do - keep your car keys as far away from the front of the house as possible and preferably inside a metal box. Don't forget the spare key - maybe take the battery out of that until you need it. And don't use the keyfob locking/unlocking facility especially in public car parks - use the door button instead - that way you're not transmitting a code to anyone around and the signal can't be interrupted to intercept locking of the car. And check that the car is locked (try a back door) before walking away. But the market for Lexus and in particular parts is going to be a lot less than for prestige and common makes - the most vulnerable these days are Ford Fiestas which I guess are mostly stolen for parts.

Just keep using what you have been. Diesels need a high detergent oil as well as DPF protection. Note that a working EGR and DPF will be a MoT requirement after 20th May.

Quote: 'Back to the EU standards - I don't know about Bath, but at least in London (proposed new congestion area) IS250 and IS220d would be exempt' Not so in France, though - Euro 5 petrol cars get a Crit-Air 1 sticker, Euro 4 petrol cars and Euro 5 and 6 diesel cars get a Crit-Air 2 and Euro 4 diesels get a Crit-Air 3 sticker. And it's not just a charge - complete bans during more or less working hours come into force progressively at the Authorities' whim. And I can't get a Crit-Air sticker at all for my MX-5 (pre-1997) - no more 'driving through Paris in a sports car with the warm wind in (my) hair' !

Sorry - ignore this thread - posted by a click error! See the other with the same title!