RoadRash

Is somebody interested in internals now? Internals arrived in America at the manufacturer ready for making process. I planned to get 3-4 sets anyway, cause I thought people would want some, cause it was always interesting to get internals, but it seems nobody is interested so I would stop process then and get the 1 set back and that's it. If somebody wants some, gimme a PM. ;)

For what else then?!? ;) Of course for more BHP and not just for looking good in the block.

Here we go, I agree! :winky: For example: Stock IS200 pistons are 74.3-74.4mm on the top end in diameter. My forged pistons I got are only 74mm on the top. The piston driver under the rings is exactly 75mm. So the top end must be a bit more slighter cause of higher temps and piston-expanding. So the pistons are made for higher HP and temp. B) No! Adie's rods broke cause of a load of overboost somewhere in the 0.8-0.9bar area, not because of material defect on 0.6bar. ;) I did really hard launches with my heavy-duty 4-paddle clutch and nothing happened at 0.6 I was going with. 0.5-0.6 is the boost area that the engine can take, but you have to take care when you notice overboost.

A bit right and a bit wrong. :P The oil film can just get ripped by overheating. Overheating means running too lean, running too lean causes piston melt or oil film ripping, oil film ripping can cause rod bearing brake. In this case you would have to do a few-hours run in red rev limit area @ 6500rpm on high boost. The engine blow in Adie's case wasn't caused by overheating. Overboosting means rod brake in the middle of the conrod. The most leathal power for a conrod comes from side (horizontal force). Horizontal force is produced by torque and rpm in rotation around the crank. The conrod is moving around crank shaft very fast and if the torque increases in a roatation the horizontal force increases more and more exponential.... and suddenly *BAMM* the conrod brakes, the rest of the rod on the big eye stungs thru the block, engine parts are around everywhere in the engine bay, oil is sticking everywhere, the piston is lost, due to the explosion it can shoot up, crashes against opened valves..... which are wasted too then. That's why raising the rev limit is the most dangerous thing you can do on an engine. Raising power and torque is limited. The conrod doesn't brake in cause of the force working straight down on the crank shaft, it brakes cause of the horizontal force during the rotation moving at high rpm and in addition with increased torque they can be broken like toothpicks .

Guys, mates and friends..... Can you stop wasting threads then with throwing $H!T another?!?

If you ask me, I'd say the stock engine is reliable for 0.6bar. In my opinion 0.7 is a bit risk, cause you can hit 0.1-0.2bar overboost very easy so I would call it a bit dangerous. :shutit: Stay @ 0.5/0.6bar and everything is OK unless of doing a 24h racing on the Nürburg-Ring. I also didn't drive carefully with my car and didn't have problems with the engine. If the engine blows (conrod brake) below 0.6bar on street-using, then I would check the conrods for steel-quality. I'd say there must be a material defect. :o And if somebody notices an overboost, then get off the gas and check it out. Check the wastegate, setup the boostcontroller correctly (duty cycle, rpm/boost setup and so on). I had a pretty good BC setting then, the boost was straight raising at 2000-2500rpm, full boost @ 3000-3500rpm and had a maximum overboost of 0.05bar so I got a max boost of 0.65 which is not dangerous. Watch out for a good boost setup (wastegate & BC) and you can prevent 99% of engine blow risk. ;) The other 1% is a material-defect which we can't prevent.

Adie, you could rename your threads to "Battlefield 3 - Tuning Wars"

The block YES, the work NO. ;) I disagree Mike. Unless you do it yourself So you can't fully disagree, cause I was meaning the case "put the car to a workshop and let them do". :P In your case I agree, but who can do that conversion by himself? It's a kind of art-work, I just think of Mat's Monster-Thread and asking "How long was the car in the garage and waited for getting finished?" It's one of the hardest jobs you can do on a car. ;) You have to modify the whole car, at least the whole drive train, making the Supra-ECU working with the safety system and the other sensors in the IS200 that's not a job I would like to do by myself.... you won't get a ride in your car at least for the next 1-2 years. If you can do it by yourself.... NICE! You're a qualified WorkShop Veteran! :winky: The only thing which is to pay is the material and that's not a peanut like buying a new front lip spoiler. And don't think to drive the car soon. If you can't do it by yourself, you better crack the jackpot in Lotto.

The block YES, the work NO. ;)

Hmm... as far as I know 2JZ-GE internals can take far more power. I heard something over the 500BHP mark, just when hitting the 600BHP mark or more you should upgrade internals. :)

Please explain in full technical detail how a lean a/f ratio will cause a connecting rod to break. I love learning new things :) I don't think that somebody can break a rod by running lean. :) Running lean means -> melting pistons or turbocharger damage Running correct A/F with overboost means -> rod brake Running lean prevented my Lexus of rod braking during the time I had overboost so the engine couldn't produce enough power for that disaster cause of too less fuel. :winky:

I liked the paddle-clutch very much. The right thing to handle the turbo-power. B) A bit more difficult to drive, but time after time you'll check it out. @Dave If the paddle-clutch gets weak once a time, is it possible to exchange the clutch disc for the paddle-clutch model?

Adie, see it as expensive experience, which I also have to do at the moment and I can't say, it were easy. But just what you feel, you really know. :winky: A soldier doesn't lay down and cry, we must stand up and fight with the experience of the past, against the problems of the future..... new adventures and better skill are waiting for us. :D You will build up your ride one day and you will know what is to do and what to take care of and you will love and appreciate your Lex more than ever. :winky: Your thought might be "I should have upgraded internals before"..... my thought was "I should have changed the old tires before".... we can't change the past, we must change the future with the experience of the past. :winky: And it's good to discuss about all that, so people can learn of things like this and maybe it helps other people to prevent terrible happenings like that. It depends on ourselves what we do in future..... lay down and cry or get up and rip the world in two pieces. B) :D Mike :)

That's why I always told ya: "Don't get over 0.6bar!" ;) Maybe the engine can take a bit more like 0.7, but with a little overboost you hit 0.8-0.9 easily and *BANG* Mine didn't brake because at this time when I had the overboost problem, I still had the stock fuel system, so the car just started stuttering but didn't pull any more, cause it didn't get enough fuel for 0.8bar. But it could get dangerous with upgraded fuel system, when the car starts to pull more and more at overboost, then it can happen like on Adie, Spock or somebody.

@ all Turbo-Lexus-Owner I can just say: Check the wastegate for correct working! Once I noticed on my Lexus some overboost and it was caused by an overstretched wastgate-stack. It was just overstretched a little bit, so it opened a bit too late and the boost shot up to 0.8-0.9 for a short moment and fell back to 0.5-0.6 then. This could mean the death of your engine, as we already have seen a few times. So check the wastegate time by time for its correct working. If it's OK and the problem is still active, then check your boost controller settings or the tubes going from solenoid valve to wastegate. Hope this helps for preventing further more engine-blows!

Hehe red mirrors and red spoiler looks nice on the white Monster!! B) But where is the second exhaust pipe??

So gutted for you buddy, believe me I know how this must hurt.... I also wanted to get my car to JAE this year with its new upgrade. If you need help, just let me know. ;) Mike

So any newcomers on interested people?? Tell me if there are any news. Mike :)

Mates, have fun at the JAE 2006! :) I'm very sorry, I can't come up this year. Seems we will just meet another in 2007. I will watch all the pics I can get with memories to JAE 2005. Mike :winky:

I think you could be right there mate :D Will make a huge difference to the look of the engine bay :winky: ...just the look?

I think a polished tubular manifold with ontop-exhaust flange and a polished T04 turbocharger will do the job. :D The rest will be done with a little engine cover. :winky:

Congrats to the front bumper and brake upgrade. The bumper is simply AWSOME!! And the brakes will slower down your car 2 times quicker than it can accelerate. Cheers Mike, keep us updated! :winky: PS: My personal tip! Get a second car just for winter, which you drive for shopping, parking on huge parking places where some dum*as*es bang with their 500€ car-doors on your 50.000€ car's side, or for driving in bad weather and so on. Your car gets more and more expensive and valuable, the more work you put in. Once a day you will be afraid of driving it a few meters in front of your house-door, just cause of the fear to get it damaged by yourself, another person or by an accident. Decrease the chance to get it damaged out on the streets. Just take it for nice weather, going to club meetings and so on. B) That's one of the lessons I have learned with my Lexus, buddy. :winky:

Cool, that looks awsome bud! Not ricer-style and not stock, just sporty!! :D

Here we go. :winky: And I also don't see any reason why threads like this must be deleted, when somebody has the chance to organize stuff for people who are looking for something like that for long long time. (Hope this was correct saying.... help me learning English mates )

This should be just a thread where people can tell me if they're also interested in getting those internals, then I can get another couple of rods/piston sets for you. So tell me, if somebody is intersted in forged internals, then write a PM to me. Tell me what you want and I give you a price then. Those internals on the pics are already reserved for a mate, but I can get same internals again if you like. :)