runsgrateasanut

Been trying to remember the name of the particular Radiator that caused these problems and was also used by Mercedes. My W140 Tran inlet pipe literally rusted off just as I turned a corner outside my house. I was lucky in that the Car just abut made it to my drive and I replaced the Rad. Think it was a name beginning with "B" but can't find any link to it. My LS400 still has the original Toyota Rad although I have a new Nissens replacement bought eight years ago for £40 which I've not put in as Members say the LS 400 original (to Mk 2) never fail. Perhaps after thirty years I should swap it out. Nissens is a good brand and it will be one less thing in my parts department !

Had the Car Air con regassed by Kwik Fit. After they last did it from a non working A/C situation (it died in France not having been used for fourteen months) I did myself boost it some time last year with A/C Pro and thought I'd use the rest of the Green Bottle but of course it had disappeared into the ether whilst in the Garage. At £64.95 and as the A/C was still cyling but not getting cool I decided to get it topped up etc professionally rather than buy another Can. The temp fell to 9.2 on the 25 min. drive home so good job done, I guess.

Please take a photo of the back of the Bumper. Your later model may be different to my own which curled around the Exhaust pipes making access without removal, impossible. .

Having had a glance under my '93 rear bumper the hidden parking sensor strip looks unfittable. Better if it was on the outside of the Bumper under the chrome strip and I may consider it with extra 3m tape the full length of the mag. strip. Although it would either have to twist and dive under the bumper one corner to allow the electrics to reach the box internally or need drill a hole . So.. maybe not! btw under £14 from Chin A on ebay if you don't mind a wait on delivery.

ooops Pakistani gentleman not Indian. Here's a link

Yes I've seen that thread using a piece of wire to manouvre the needle which I believe had stuck on 100? Thought about drilling a hole near to the speedo pillar and then trying to clean the Post but I'd need do it for the Rev counter as well. It only sticks in the Summer Malc. Never had it stick in the winter. Not keen to do this. Did find a thread of and Indian guy taking a later model console apart but I don't think I could do that in the yoga pose he adopts. Not flexible enough!. Too hot to muck arund me thinks.

Not clear as to what you have done here. Any link to the US thread?

Be interesting to know if you should purchase and fit a kit? Is the rear bumper classified as "plastic" or "fibreglass". Thickness, does it make a difference?

Have done that in the past and used two sheets of plastic on top of each other, each wheel. This time I wanted to turn the wheel at least twenty times so went to the trouble of lifting off ground. This way I knew I wouldn't have to struggle to turn the steering.

So, bled out one air bubble that the wife said she saw when on hard left lock. May have done the trick but only when I try to park at Colchester Hospital where there are far more Cars than spaces will I discover if I can turn the wheel without straining my innards. It seemed lighter when I did a five mile trip just now, so hopefully....

Very old thread this - 2008 but exactly the problem I've been having. Didn't see that the writer confrmed he solved the problem and how? Maybe I fell asleep at that point. Having taken off the parts and Air filter housing I've decided I don't want to bleed out the system via the rear tube as its in a confined space and with a right angle bend after one inch. Risk of spillage. Since retrieving the car from France back in the day I can't believe that it took me half an hour just to undo the bolt that holds the centre air box. Many bolts have rusted into place and even with large grips the bolt (with phillips head) didn't want to budge. My hands ache from the process. So, new Air filter in place (Crossland £9.99 on t'bay) everything will go back on and I'll try getting any air out of the system by raising the front hweels and turning from side to side 20 times. Can't easily see whats happening in the reservoir but will leave the Cap loose whilst doing this (is this correct???) Just on tick over, presumably. Is there a centre point under the front bumper where two trolley jacks can go or is behind each wheel, the only place?

I've replaced UCA's with cheapy's but I always replace the Rubber part with items from the below company. I recall reading that one member said the rubber on unused parts hanging in his garage disintegrated. Invariably a split rubber is a MOT fail and allows dirt into the part, so......... https://www.southwalesprops.co.uk/propshaft/consumables/ball_joint.htm

I started to get a creaking sound at the rear passenger side and asked my Mechanic to put some silicone spray on the bushes. Seems to have done the job. The rear wishbones were looking pretty ropey when I had the rear strut problem a couple or so years back bu I do have replacement Toyota parts should they become a MOT "fail". Had them for must be five or so years and cost £700 if I remember correctly. One day........if I last that long!

This takes me back - think I'll have it at my funeral

I only read today of John's passing having last had a pm exhange with him in December when he told me he was unwell. So very sad. My sincere condolences to his family. RIP John.

I have found that at most times of the year if I reverse out of my Driveway, stop the Car whilst putting the chain across that if I put the Car back into Park even with the handbrake on, that upon putting the Car into Drive I get a rather unpleasant clunk. I therefore have for several years after stopping to put the Chain across,with the Handrake depressed, I put the Car into Neutral and upon selecting Drive I have no noise, release HandBrake and go. This I figure is to down to cold Trannie Oil. Once the oil has warmed up - no problem with selecting Drive from Park after reversing or whatever. ps How many Films of American Cars have I seen where the driver gets out and the Car lurches forward! Common practice there not to use the Hand/Foot Hand brake it would seem.

Excellent choice of colour 4K9 - doesn't show the dust. Now all you need is two dozen Hail dents and I can say "snap". Seriously, are you planning on changing the Indicator and side lens to clear?

My Car passed its MOT yesterday still with a list of rust issues but the fail ones Welding repaired at a cost of £140. You can check out my Car's history K950EJB. Really can't see why you'd consider selling a beautiful loved Car for the sake of peanuts expense.

That's shocking with only 60k recorded. What is the Registration number as you may not be able to put up photo's at this early stage. Jus took my Car for MOT and Rust under rear wheel arches to be dealt with. Mine 1s 93' with 150k on the Clock.

Frivolous comment, I always think of Uncle Buck when I see the Word "Shocks" Sorry I can't help.

Won't those big wheels change the drive train and you'll feel every small bump on the road. My Car has 16" (standard size of '93) and see proper Lexus wheels if you look at my avatar. Came off a different model Car but I like them. Easy maintenance and the only things that get a regular wash.

Can't tell you what size of part you want, but this company has supplied me with parts before. I see I ordered a DC176K but it doesn't look right in the image so.......?? Can't recall if any issue but my Car is a '93 model so you my well need different. https://www.southwalesprops.co.uk/propshaft/consumables/ball_joint.htm (153K keeps popping up in my brain for some reason?)

Spilling Milk and gluing to Walls and roads when ...

I would assume that they are not easy to remove - certainly from the earlier cars like my own. To get to the upper part would be difficult.

Did you repair /replace that broken EGR pipe that is located at the back of the engine? Didn't see it on your list of parts, but maybe overlooked it. Right pig of a place to get to without removing engine - I imagine?