runsgrateasanut

Thanks Mark and Steve, I managed to work out how to remove the Glove box (at long last!) and of course as soon as it started to drop I thought I need to disconnect the Battery Neg. Worried that the pass/s/air bag would blow up in my leaning forward face, if I mess with the Connector. Leaving for twenty mins before trying to figure out if the yellow connector just snaps into the black plastic of if its a case of seperating one part from another? Some progress made! A bit slow these days.

Having some years back taken out the ECU for the LS400, blow me if my Brain seems to hve deserted me when it comes to this GS300 Glove box removal. Firstly, I wrongly undid the screws to the liner - Doh!. Realising from a clip about the LS400 removal that it is three screws in the plastic, there is reference to a bolt (screw? ) via a panel at the back that needs be undone. I removed the panel and it gave me the opportunity to clean out the Cabin Filter which had a a flower bed, husks and seeds nicely filling it. Doubt it had been changed in the Car's lifetime. However, no screw bolt, and tugging seems to not get it to shift. There is a lower Black panel with the Floor light in it. Perhaps this needs be removed to gain access to lower /screws. Once again can't quite see how this comes off but maybe just pulls off?? Anyone help? as need to get to that HVAC motor to sort the Air con absence. Thanks

OK so, the Air con is blowing hot air and I need to do the above job. Thought it would be simple to remove the Glove box as have done it on other vehicles, but .......... Undid top screws on insert and two middle screws but... are there two other screws right donw where no phillips will reach or how do I (pull in) the side parts so that it will lower? Don't want to break something . Anyone post a diagam of the fixings please, so I can seek out eh Blend Door Actuator which is probably the part that has been serenading me from the air vents with quiet almost imperceptible whispering? Thanks - as can't drive a Car with no air con. Update on other work to this GS. New front Calipers and sliders. New rear Discs and pads (but I have astrnage scraping noise when turning to the left fro. o/s/r which mechanic sat in car today and could hear but not fathom. Spent a sleepless night last night as thought it was the Rack and Pinion steering on the way out! Sun roof drains sorted if I haven't already mentioned it. Lovely day. Cool Beer just enjoyed.

You may want to search youtube with this in the title "left key inside car how to open " May help avoid broken glass situation?

Howard, I'd be grateful if you can let me know the length of the "tail" on your new Mast. I have a spare but suspect it is short and don't want to bother to remove the unit if it is going to be a waste of time. Previous owner put in a cheapy and it makes a strange "grinding sound" as it emerges. Its a five part Mast. Thanks Stuart

Personally I used Motorcycle Fork Gaitors - cost under £8 just needed to use Cable ties to tie to the remains of the original Gaitors. Did the job.

Yesterday I siphoned out the Power steering fluid which was black replacing with Mannol Dextron 111. A very simple process which I saw on the Tube saying can be done in five minutes. Took more time than that but did the job which has been on the back burner for a while. The World and its wife being here on the Coast, not had the opportunity to see if it gives a different feel to the Steering. Was concerned that there seemed to be a vague spot I can only describe as like "jumping a cog". Hoping the Steering column is sound as these are rather pricey and enough tasks on the list already.

Thanks Piers - it was an achievement I wouldn't want to have to repeat!

Perhaps it was a Hirschmann Auto 2050 ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313076064253?

Update on the saga. Save someone else the anxiety I've tried to cope with. Lowering the headliner is very difficult as the part that surrounds the Sunroof does not have a seperate bead which when removed allows the headliner to fall. Fact is, not sure how it is affixed at that point. Both tubes had come adrift from Sunroof. Doh! The end piece which joins the pipe was as flexible as plastercine and was stretched beyond its original size. Can't say why? It was only held on by a wire crossover spring clip. Trying to put it back with just an envelope of space even after removal of the grip handle above the door and release of the top part of the A pillar casing, Sun shades and Dome light, was a struggle and impossible to do. Grazed hands to prove. I ended up (Drivers side) adding a small piece (2") section of tube (smaller diameter) inserted into the original pipe end and then with hot water making it flexible enough to go over the metal tube end of the Sun roof. Not easy! No clip, but should shrink as cools. Passenger side, with my bck and head against the Windscreen and my body on the Seat with one knee up the seat back and one leg holding the door from swinging into the neighbours car, after an hours effort I managed to get a ten inch section of new pipe (hot water treated) on to the metal pipe end. I then had to join this new pipe length to the existing, by insertion, into the old pipe at the A Pillar. Hot water again on the old pipe (used an Actimel bottle with kettle water) and finally put everything back together. How much water is under the Carpet I do not know. Possibly little as sealed the Sunroof. Fact is, its not even easy to lift the Carpet without removing the Seat. Tucked Towelling down and hopefully drained out any water. Air bags in A pillar, above Doors and in Seats makes removing the Negative terminal of the battery essential for safety i.m.o. Then you can't move the Seat!! . I'll never poke anything down a Sunroof drain again. Just upward from now on!

Thinking the sun roof pipes must have become dislodged or are split as water drips from just under the dashboard when poured down the hole t'other day. Am assuming that they run along the A pillar? Sunroof sealed until I have a clear day to investigate behind A Pillar and hoping that I don't have to lower the Headliner, but looks a distinct possibility. Got an Endoscope but too large to go into the drain hole. Also invarably its impossible to see what its looking at on a Laptop Screen unless you do the task at Midnight. If its streaming down on to the Carpet it must be a dislodged tube and not the lower drain point clogged as water would back right up the tube in such case. I've also found the Carpet wet by the side of the Seats. Not too sure how this would happen. Wondering if where the two doors meet at the roofline, there is a gap there. Can't surely allow water in? Suspect its Water creep. Much to be done Folks! Only good news is the o/s/f Caliper arrived today from USA and it had the two bow shaped springs which were missing on the n/s/f when it arrived a couple of weeks ago. Gave the Mechanic a diagram of the Bow and some S/S wire to make two springs, which he duly did. For £100 on my door step a new (remanufactured) Caliper with integral Bracket is a good buy. Mechanic phoned me when replacing the n/s/f a week back and said he approached Lexus Parts and was told a new Bracket would cost just under £300. What he'd failed to do was check out what I'd supplied and was still in the boot. He'd not inspected it. What a relief for him and me as the old Caliper Bracket bolt had snapped when he was removing it. Was possible to do the job, after all. Sorry about the Saga. This GS just keeps on giving !

Well, the problems just keep on coming. Leaking front Caliper means another purchase from Rock Auto en route. Wish I'd not gone onto Facebook marketplace!! Both front drains blocked or have become disconnected? Seems like the drain point is just where the Jack point is, so both sides seem to have suffered from crunching by a Garage jack, I suspect. Going to give the above video another look as although I haven't experienced misting in the Car I'm guessing to raise the Carpet will raise my blood pressure. A little unclear about what the white block is? I'll be somewhat cautious about the side airbag. Disconnect the battery neg. and wait fifiteen mins. perhaps? Need to get some half inch tube as 3/8 or 10mm won't do the job. Decided to seal the Sunroof with electrical tape temporarily as storms forecast and busy week coming. I'll get some pleasure out of this GS someday! (possibly)

I think Paul has suggested how its done without the hastle of Hub removal etc. Those four small bolts that hold it on will likely shear. Making the task very difficult even if you can easily get to them. Imagine if they do shear you would need to get a drill to bore out part of the remains and then use self tapping screws. How difficult will that be? I did keep photo's of how I hooked my part up, but sadly can't find them and the Car in France .................. Malc, the MOT inspection didn't comment on my fix - maybe I was lucky? No advisories.

This is quite an interesting idea to the problem and possibly can be done with other vehicles?

Thought Disc Dust shileds were available for my '93 LS but on attempting to purchase, came back with refund and no longer available. Tried several places to no avail. Pig of a job anyway as small bolts will shear and so ended up; drilling a hole and wiring the loose part to part of the Caliper which does not move. Need to them fibreglass outer side to strengthen- perhaps. Didn't get around to it. Good luck.

Reviving this old thread as found Water on the front passenger mat after Monday nights squall. Quite a lot. I don't have a diagram of the Water drains for the Car. Can anyone Post a photo from a Workshop manual? Read here that it may be the Sun roof channel. Wasn't sure when I last looked at the windscreen area if the drain is down a small plastic grid like fitting? Any advice? I ususally use a net curtain flexi cable to rod. Wouldn't use high pressure as read can disconnect pipe or do damage. Are those Workshop Manual downloads safe? I have a Cd for the LS400 and frankly its rubbish as it doesn't clearly identify each image so you end up having to look at every image and hope you'll arrive atwhat you want! Thanks

Yes Allan, it was the rear. There is a thread somewhere which another member posted showing how he removed the Bush. Sorry I couldn't find it. Its not an easy job to do and I can only tell you what my Mechanic said. I gave him two lengths of Scaffolding tube. One measured length 5cm and the other 2cm. Diameter internal 4cm. Also a 32mm and a 27mm CR-V 1/2" square socket which came in a cheap set I bought off ebay. I ground out part of the inside of the 27mm socket to fit the Bush. The Bush has a flat end and rounded end. The rounded end being the end to face the Hub when inserting. It is best to remove the circlip on the flat end so the 27mm socket fits snugly. Put back in situ. The mechanic had the Bolt set but not the correct size parts so used these and with Heat applied (which he said was necessary) he managed to extract and insert the part. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264491418445? (Oil Filter Removal SocketSet Cap Wrench) Don't yet know if the GS300 is the same size Rose Bush as awaited. Guessing it will be?

That rattle Phil, is I suspect similar to what I've got on my GS300 and had on the LS400. Lower Hub Rose bush failure. A pain to remove, as my mechanic found on the LS400. fortunately I kept the two pieces of Scaffolding tube needed to push out and force in, a replacement. Only nearside needs doing. No mention on the MOT of either Cars but a "wobble"sound a bit disconcerting. Wow! if your Car had become available before I bought this lemon, I'd have been tempted to ignore lockdown etc..

There are useful videos on u tube showing how to replace the Mode switch, and the part itself can be bought quite cheap at Rock. However, all these vids show the work done on LHD Cars under the Glove box. Question is, will this part be under the Ignition switch side for RHD cars or did Toyota /Lexus make these units in reverse for RHD cars? I know I can take the glove box apart and see the answer but I'm fairly lazy and I'd rather know in advance before I order the part that it will be under the Glove box. I don't have a Workshop Manual. Not sure about these Download free Manual sites? Anyone know the answer before I buy the part? Situation is, that the mode switch doesn't seem to go right across to the "Windscreen" position, so needs be replaced. It does change settings to the other positions.

My GS is colour code 3P2 which strangely appears to have two named colours. Bordeaux Mica Metallic or Black Cherry Pearl. Not sure which came first or if exactly the same colour? Why is it that this colour seems to suffer lacquer peel? Admittedly it is mainly on the Bonnet. Perhaps an over enthusiastic polisher or maybe its been resprayed? My 7 year old LS400 had no lacquer peel even with the Hail dents that occured in 2018. I rarely washed it as Beige seems to not show the dirt as clearly as darker colours. The answer perhaps? On a different subject or three!! , is there a bleed screw for the coolent system on the GS? Couldn't undo the expansion tank cap - feared breaking it. Need a Workshop manual and wonder if the download is a good idea as Haynes don't do one?

Can't bring myself to shell out that amount of dough, so go for the older rather less reliable bangers - oops I mean Classics with all their quirky characteristics that come with age.

I had a major haematuria after lifting out the 8.5J spare wheel from the GS a couple of months ago. Unbelievably difficult to do and shouldn't have attempted it. My LS problem is a rusted through rear Track Control Arm which was never mentioned in any MOT's. Luckily it broke away when I was doing just 15mph and locally to our French abode. Recovered to the home rather than a nearby Garage which would have meant it stood outside since August 2020. Just able to drive it into the Garage. Hopefully no oink has broken into the Car or Cottage? Anxious times. ps There is a link in the thread " is the Car terminal" with photo.

Personally, I think - yes you are mad. But it depends on your age, health, ability and what plans you have in life.. Life threw me a curve ball by my LS400 breaking down in France, just before the second (?) lockdown, having driven the 1200 mile return trip some eighteen times without incident, and it having a clean MOT no advisories. I had to have something over here to drive so bought what I thought was a good Corolla, one owner, 70k. Turned out having to have quite a lot doing to it and I no longer do things myself if it involves lifting wheels etc. Then realised that it was not going to be comfortable for me to do the 1200 mile trip as not automatic. 1.4VVTi Great for short journeys, economical and chain belt driven. So, bought the GS300 130k miles, and have spent similar on parts if not more as the Cambelt was last changed at 68k in 2008. Daren't risk a long drive in it. MOT pass with no advisories, but needed two rear discs and pads, a Front Caliper, and I've got two new front ball joints even though mechanic says don't need replacing. Just don't trust "no advisories" any more and this has been a strain added to a deteriorating health situation. The VSC light goes out and then comes on, which may be no more than a faulty petrol cap (sounds extraordinary but that’s what people have found) Hoping the Brake work will solve issue. Cheapy Cap arrived from China today – not tried it. Do wonder why I chose another Lexus as spent a similar amount and more on the LS400 back in 2014 and had umpteen slepless nights. Same now. Never had same trouble with W140, SEL, or SEC but they don't make them as reliable after 1998. Guess I have just been missing the LS – and still am! Will I ever get it home?

Realised today that my colour Car is the same as HM's lovely Bentley. Better give it its first wash since my ownership- tomorrow!

Put the CORRECT Wheel nuts on the replacement wheels after realising that the cone nuts on the Grandstand wheels were not correct. Flat faced 22m and locking nuts now in situ. The Brain has not been engaged. Its not been a good year, so far! Doh!