Lost it

Unless you are really determined to believe some one who has done a half day training course rather than someone who actually knows what he is talking about. Your money, your decision.

Nope. There's two types of refridgerant gas. Not really the point. The point is if they inject the WRONG LUBE your system will fail. Because you can guarantee they won't know anything about that.

Members 864 1,369 posts Name: John Lexus Model: GS450H Year of Lexus: 2007 Location: Herefordshire Report post Posted Tuesday at 09:36 PM I would not go to Halfords under any circumstances, and have them even check the AC pressure. The hybrid Toyota/Lexus cars use a different lubricant in the AC system (ND11). This lubricant has a high electrical insulation properties compared to the lubricant used in normal cars (PAG) where the compressor is driven by the engine, and not by an electric motor as with the hybrids. Just using gauges, and lines that are contaminated with PAG lubricant can cause compressor motor failure sometimes months down the line because of it's conductivity to electricity. This makes it impossible to prove damage by contamination some time later when it occurs. A new combined motorised compressor is I beleave around £2500. You have been warned. The compressor will not be harmed by low gas pressure as the system has a pressure switch built into it to restrict it's operation in this event. John. What John says. Don't even let Halfrauds open the bonnet. They are not specialiats, or technicians. And when they fail they will simply tell you to take it to a Lexus dealer. It might be too late by then.

I kind of have this problem with wifey's car, she doesn't do much in the form of mileage and I always change the tyres because of cracking, never because they are worn out. Short of parking it in the shade, and rolling it about once in a while, I don't think there is a "fix" for this. My understanding is 6 years tops for tyres.

Highly unlikely that the Lexus dealer service crew would do all that anyway. People don't understand a "Dealer service" is an oily rag/stamp the book job. An "Owner" service is where you actually look at things.

I had a look on utube last night. Very clever. I have to try one.

Oh gosh... Many years ago I had a Citroen BX. It had the hand brake on the front wheels, and the early ones also had a problem that if you pulled the hand brake on whilst the car was rolling it would jack the front suspension up. Then you got out, went into your home and the car's suspension levelled itself and also somehow relased the hand brake too... I didn't know this, when I reversed onto my drive I smartly pulled the hand brake on, jumped out, went in and did the usual get home from work stuff. Kiss the dog, pat the wife on the head, you know.. First I heard was when my neighbour across the road came and asked me why I had left my car in the middle of the road... Always left it in gear after that.

Well. I have a year 2000 Jaguar S type 4.0 V8. On a "run" using fairly clear roads (A3, M25, A1) to Peterborough I can get anything up to 28mpg at usual motorway speeds. But it's usually around the 25mpg mark. I don't hammer it, a big lazy 4 litre V8 you don't need to. I like the sound it makes...But when I do I can glance at the onboard mpg indicator and watch it drop to circa 12mpg. There's a price to pay if you want to use it. I don't expect anything else. Wide rubber, very grippy. I used my wife's Ford Fiesta 1.4 auto to go to work one day last week, pre MOT because she doesn't use it much, it did just over 38mpg. I also have a 2004 3.0 V6 Jaguar XJ6. It has the Jaguar version of the Ford Duratec V6 3 litre that makes 240bhp. Same journey, much lighter car being aluminium bodied, it will give me 34mpg if I can coax it into 6th gear which means it will be breaking the speed limit slightly.If not it's 29-30 mpg. But it does have wide and grippy tyres on it. And I have a 2001 model Mini 1 1600 which struggles to do anywhere near 40mpg, because frankly I drive it like I stole it. That's what they are for. In the right conditions. And now I have my 2000 model Lexus RX300 that is fitted with more or less commercial truck tyres that were cheap but have a good wet weather rating. That's what they feel like, very stiff sidewalls and I'm getting circa 28mpg off her and I'm happy at that because like I said, it's a big, heavy, not very aerodynamic lump. And I really want to try a Hybrid not because of the fuel economy, but because I have never driven one. Do I take the risk of simply buying an older one to see how I get on with it? Or waste peoples time test driving ones for sale... Not that kind of chap if I'm honest. You see I didn't know the engine only ran if the battery asked for it. I didn't know that you cannot just start the engine and drive off. There's a lot I don't know. I have driven a Leaf and a Volt(?) and they were a little strange if I'm honest. When I use my 2015 Honda VFR FE to go to work at Watford, I get an average of 58mpg. Like I try and get across, it's horses for courses. I pulled up behind a really nice RX400h at the turn off onto the M25 yesterday on my way home, it had private plates and I was about to ask the driver about it when the lights changed... That's what I need to do, look out for an owner whilst I'm at work (I'm building a new Aldi at Century Park in Watford) who has pulled up in the car park and see if they don't mind if I ask a few questions. I sort of believe that Lexus owners will be as proud of their cars as the average older Jaguar owner. And most bikers if I'm honest. My daughter has a 2018 model Renault Twingo .9 litre turbo thing. Even with stop start she cannot get anywhere near the manufacturer figure for fuel economy, she gets high 40's. The above is why I don't expect to buy a large engined luxury barge and get good mileage. Manufacturers figures are done in a lab, not on a road. Don't know why they bother with them if I'm blunt. Not a useful guide at all.

I suppose it depends on if it puts a "money light" up on the dashboard? Engine Management Light is now a major fail. It must come on with the ignition and then turn off when the engine is started. I know that this is a tricky one again, and I apologise for my lack of knowledge of the Hybrid ones, but the "Money light" would normally go off after a set period of time? I dunno if I'm honest. I know that during the last tranche of MOT updates there was talk of vehicles being plugged into the OBD2 port. And if there's a fault on the emissions system that would show whether the engine can be run or not as it would be a stored code. However it didn't get through this time, doesn't mean they can't add it at any time, I think it was held off because of the cost of getting the equipment retro fitted at MOT stations in time for the new requirements.

Because the MOT test itself is still a "work in progress". And if we stay under the control of the EU it's only a matter of time until they decide we can only run our cars on the tears of red squirrels. Point is still that running without working lambda sensors will kill the cats And if you are trying to "do the right thing" by running a Hybrid, it's a bit, well, silly to let the engine pollute every time it fires up. Unless you are only running a hybrid so you can brag about it.

Is it only me? Why do people by 3 litre and up vehicles and expect them to give you Mini 850 mileage figures? Even if they are "Hybrid" that battery still adds to the mass of the vehicle that has to be moved, it's still not the most aerodynamic of shapes and frankly it weighs quite a bit. Anything over 25mpg is a bonus. Fact. So why would anyone think they are getting an economy car? It's a TANK you are running. Not a motorbike.

Ah. The dreaded chemo... I've had bowel cancer twice now, and realised there's no point not enjoying life, go and do what you want. It's all about attitude. So I bought a V8 Jaguar, a new motorbike, Should have bought a bog hopper though. Just bought an RX300 because the last cancer op pretty much messed up my lymphatic system and my leg keeps swelling up. So if I'm sat in the Jag for more than 3 hours, I struggle to lever myself out of the car because of the swollen leg. I figure with the Lexus, if it happens I can just open the door and fall out.. To be fair I've had Lexus cars before, I had a GS300, boiught my wife an IS200 because of how reliable the GS was, so getting something like that so that I could get in and out easier, well it had to be Lexus, not some other eastern vehicle. You know where you are with Lexus.Unless you rely on the satnag of course...

Re the greasing the brake pipes thing... As Herbie says. Doesn't mention this at all in the latest MOT testers manual. So I'll be questioning that one and asking for the evidence if it crops up.

I'd still use it because it's allegedly able to stop the rust that is already present. I'll be buying a Waxoyl pack soon anyway, might as well cover myself in gunge. There's only really odd bits, mainly around the exhaust system, suspension mounts, that kind of thing. Up on the ramps, off with the wheels, on with the spray. And on another slightly worrying point... My MOT guy told me that if a brake pipe has been coated with grease, it's now a fail. I've always done this...

But unfortunately, you will be storing up trouble for later on if you ignore the lambda sensors. As it will kill the cats eventually. And they are a "big ticket" item. And it might not always be the case that the engine itself isn't checked for emissions.

From what I can gather that "box of bits" on the jump starter Lithium things is there to stop the car's charging system from "boosting" the booster if it manages to start the car. Because lithium batteries don't apparently like 60 amps being shoved at them. Anyway, to the point, if your booster stops working, it's probably because this "safety device" has melted.. I cut the one on mine off and joined the wires, I had to get a generator running for a shop over xmas and it was the only way. The poor thing got so hot it melted the jumper cable. Did the job, but trying to get another set of leads for it was almost impossible. If I hadn't got the genny running, the sprinklers would likely have gone off... Just what they needed on Xmas eve. So be aware, they are good pieces of kit, but they can be a bit fragile. I don't think I'd want to plug one directly into my car without the "protection" pack being in there as well?

In my humble experience, the "Service history" is a stamp in the book and that's it. Even when you have a receipt that says the work was done, if it is hard to do it won't have been because the mechanics will be on a "menu time" to do the service so they check, measure sometimes, but if they can get away with saving some time they will. Wheels won't need to come off if they can see the pads, so they won't check for sticking calipers unless the customer mentions it, and with a brand like Lexus I'd imagine the chances that the driver would notice something like a brake dragging would be slim? It's only when they get older/middle aged and are bought by someone who gives a monkeys that they get the servicing they should have.IMHO. I have the state of my transmission oil to back me up on this...

Yes. There is a warrranty that he has to adhere to. Much as they won't want to admit it. Is he expecting you to change the part yourself? What happens if you manage to shear the old one off is that your problem? This dealer is not doing the right thing is he?

I think based on what I've found I ought to get a new set of plugs and check that the harder to get to rear bank has had new plugs in it at some point. I won't be holding my breath that they have beeen changed.

Ahh. The "problem" with these types of reviews is that they are very situation specific. I don't think any driver, whether careful, experienced, long distance or even plain lunatic, goes out looking for situations where they can do a crash stop in the wet. And I will still maintain that a top notch premium tyre with only 1.6mm of tread on 3mm of water won't be as good at clearing water and stopping the vehicle as one fitted with "HooFlungDung" chinese ditch finders with 7mm of tread in the same situation. Should you ever find yourself in that situation. Because what stops you is rubber on the road, not the rubber sliding on the water. In the same way that very few of us ever test the tyre's limit of adhesion "on the limit" in the dry or the wet.. We are car drivers, driving a luxury barge, not Ayrton Senna in an F1 car. Driving in that manner would soon bring you to the attention of someone, even if it was only the ambulance crew. I am a big believer in putting 4 season rubber on though. But as I've only just got my RX, and as I don't know if I'm going to grow to love it, I went for a set of mid range/budget tyres for the now. The tyres it came with were three different makes and frankly dangerous.If these lower budget things don't last long, it will be long enough for me to decide if the car is the right move for me. The cost of the tyres whilst it might be a consideration, really isn't depending on your values. It depends on the state of your bank balance at the time of purchase. When I do decide, I'll be fitting Goodyear Vectors because I've run them for years on my Jaguar's and besides a little bit of tyre thrum, they have never left me thinking they are more than adequate for the car's performance. I even put a set on my wife's Fiesta because I need to make sure she can get home to make my tea. I can "light the Vector's up" with the V8 S type, but only if I really am in the right mood. Which isn't often these days.

Aye. Just read the article. I think a "Drain/refill/flush" is basically what I have done Mark. The amount of ATF i put through it, well I almost ran out of empty 5 litre bottles... The "Flush using a machine" requires two filters. One to replace what's already in and one to put in once the system has been flushed, theory being anything removed by the flush through will be in the "new" filter so it's best to start afresh. As Jaguar quote astronomical prices for a new ZF trans for the XJ350 series, the cost of a couple of filters is money well wasted IMHO. I've ordered another one for mine for the same reason. I'll run it for a couple of tank fills and then do it again. I probably won't get the same benefit a 2nd time shift quality wise though. If you are even vaguely interested in the ZF box and how "proper" technicians do the gearbox oil flush, there's about two houyrs worth of articles and video's in here.. Always called them "Zed Eff" boxes. Not "Zee Eff" like this guy says it. https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=84945

Well, depends who you talk to. There's a theory that you might dislodge some "dirt" that was helping the gearbox work, but to my mind that's similar to expecting sand to smooth valve orifices. In other words, that theory is telling anyone with an Auto box to never change the fluid completely. Well, the ZF box in my jaguarXJ6 has to be flushed by machine to do that properly, and I wouldn't argue with ZF. I can't see Aisin saying it's a good idea to leave grimy fluid in there either. But it's worth a look at their website I guess. But as I was changing the filter anyway... And I'd argue if the ATF that filthy, it's not going to be clean fluid that will finally kill it. It won't be "dirty fluid" that's making the box work. It will be dirty fluid that is making it run hotter than it should? And if it's that dirty and the filter is clogged, then the gearbox oil pump will also be struggling to keep everything pressurised you would think. I didn't see any sign of a "bypass" system on the old filter, but I spent about 15 minutes cleaning it with Brake cleaner and it was still coming out a dirty yellow/broan colour when I finished. I think it's fairly safe to say it's never been off. Besides, I quite enjoy pulling things to pieces and rebuilding them. And if it does fail, I could look at putting a 5 speeder in it rather than the 3+over drive one that's in it at present. Only nuts and bolts at the end of the day. But I have to say, after the oil change, the actual gearbox performance is almost faultless. Even the kick down works now. I have looked at the Service history. It does have a listing for 4 litres of ATF. So I guess they simply charged for it, or just dropped the sump? But the filter was definitely the original.

Two different types of sensor that I'm aware of, so you kind of need to know what type your particular car has installed. And usually, giving your reg number to a Motor factor will allow them to check which type you have? TITANIA OXYGEN SENSORS. Vary in resistance based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. ZIRCONIA OXYGEN SENSORS. Produce a voltage which varies based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. ... The usual problem is that the heater circuit has failed.

So this guy wants you to take a stanley knife (other makes are available) to your own car? Ok. I put that as close to the pleasure I'd get dragging my fingers down a chalk board...

I've watched a few utube video's etc. about Krown rust proofing and wish there was one closer to me. http://www.krown.co.uk/ I just don't have the free time to do what the OP has done, so something like this would be the better option for me. I also use spray cans of Waxoyl, but it never seems to go off..