NemesisUK

Tyre pressures rarely change with tyre make. Pressure is determined by axle weight. It might be prudent to use the higher pressures in the recommended range with very low profile tyres, to stave off snake bite punctures.

The Mercedes SL is a grand tourer. An example of a smaller car. GT is more to do with drive characteristic i.e. effortlessly covering long distances, which the RC does. Of course this is all subjective. Having masses of power, or at least far more than can be exploited on UK roads, can be very relaxing or in my experience, frustrating. Hence my choice of the 300h over the RC-F Unless one is routinely crossing the Continent, the more modestly powered car is much kinder on one's nerves (and license!).

Aren't they all imported from Japan?

" the 2004 BMW 330 also does this, according to the driver’s handbook it makes 231 BHP on 98 octane and 221 BHP on 95. " https://www.petrolprices.com/about-fuel.html That's a significant increase?

I'm sure it's perfectly fine but wouldn't your MSport develop more bhp on V-Power? BMW and Mercs are held up as examples of engines that sefl-adjust to take advantage of the better fuel.

The RC in whatever guise is not and was never meant to be a sports car. It's a Grand Tourer and in my opinion acquits itself very well. Coming from a supercharged 5.4 V8 I can appreciate RC is not a traffic light drag star but cruising the UK's A and B roads it's very credible. Super relaxed at all legal speeds, confident through the twisties and with sufficient mid-range urge to get past those 'Sunday drivers'. Oh, and it looks the dogs danglies

Surely the pressures on the tyre sidewall are the maximum inflation pressure the tyre can withstand, normally during mounting on the rim, certainly not driving pressures. Yes, looking at that image the correct ECO driving pressure would 36psi

As does the RC

Why is the RC-F beyond reasonable to own as a single car?

Except the part covering the instrument binnacle bulge, on my 2016 RC at least it feels different, softer, has stitch detailing around the edge and has no 'grain' ?

Class

From the owner's handbook.... "Do not place anything other than cups or aluminum cans in the cup holders."

A little more info... http://www.lexus-int.com/eco-thinking/power-of-h-engine.html

"Where available, the transmission enhances driver engagement through two means. Firstly, models with a sequential function built into the E-CVT system generate the feeling of manually changing gear ratios by providing a closer match between increases in engine and vehicle speed. This is also used to deliver stepped engine braking force under deceleration. Secondly, models with a sport mode built into the E-CVT change the sensation of dynamic performance by increasing engine speed more rapidly during acceleration, as demonstrated in the diagram below." http://blog.lexus.co.uk/perfect-partners-e-cvt-and-hybrid/ The above certainly add more driver 'involvement' should one wish it

Some modern engines and certainly those of the German marques for many years have knock sensors and can adjust the engine ignition timings to make best use of the fuel presented. Definitely the case in my old CLS55, I could feel the difference when switching to V-Power. Now, I know the engine in the 300h is nowhere near the performance tune of the AMG but it certainly can't hurt the engine to feed it with higher octane fuel and with increased cleaning additives. Does anyone know if the Lexus 4 pot engines have the ability to automatically adjust timing to account for octane rating?

The RC300h has only one electric traction motor?

So, basically, the electric motor spins up the ICE, increasing oil pressure, before the ignition starts. Yes, it is a very smooth start when it occurs as the car moving but a little less smooth when pulling away from standstill. The ICE start-up then feels ever so slightly more 'abrupt'

Well you know.. it won't do any damage... (approx £8 extra per tank, no big deal)

If anything like my 2016 RC the only bit of real leather on the dash is the part covering the instrument binnacle. The rest and the door cappings are artificial leather

As does the monitor in my RC but the question stands, does the ICE still spin (free-wheel, no ignition spark, no fuel being consumed ) even when not providing power to move the car? If it does it would continue to maintain oil pressure and reduce wear from constant start-ups? I noticed in this cold snap we're experiencing that the ICE fires up to provide warmth to the cabin (and it's own internals?) even though the monitor shows the electric motor is providing power to the wheels. No other indication i.e. powerflow, from ICE to the wheels.

Regular will be fine but for the small additional expense per tank I would (and have for my RC300h) use the likes of Shell V-Power, even if only to keep the engine/fuel system cleaner.

I think Rabbers sums up my views on the RC quite nicely. I would only add the RC's "Raison d'etre" was never to be a sports car but a grand tourer, a brief it carries off admirably, IMHO.

Doesn't the alarm module have it's own rechargeable battery? On previous cars the alarm was totally separate from the car systems battery, meaning it couldn't flatten the car battery and also if the miscreant disconnected the car battery somehow the alarm wold still sound.

Does the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine, royoftherovers ) actually stop spinning when the electric motor takes over? Obviously when stopped at lights it does but when cruising?

Don't apply the parking brake for extended periods, especially during the colder months? It states this in the owner's handbook