chr15gb

I'd agree start with the column switch. I found the attached which are all relevent to 2005 models. description0.pdf FWW.pdf intermittent.pdf layout.pdf speed sensing.pdf washer.pdf

No problems at all. I'm a radio listener though, not an audiophile but it is clear enough for me. No dropouts or fades, it just works.

I've had one of these installed since July 2019 and its been perfect https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NACN8PY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use my phone mounted for Waze Satnav which integrates with Tunein (or Amazon Music). It sits in the cubby hole under the armrest, in fact I don't think I've touched it since it was installed. Phone connects to it automatically on start up.

I came to Lexus from owning a BMW 530D. BMW are simply money pits. Not just mechanical issues but a silly electrical system which simply does not forgive anything not being perfect. I used to post pictorial guides of my encounters, heres a couple of example (https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/2004-e60-530d-glowplug-controller-replaced.121246/ https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/2004-e60-530d-ulf-bluetooth-module-goosed-frozen-idrive.118221/#post-1008083 In fact, I did so many the site above made me a Moderator on the site (I'm not anymore as I no longer visit). I have many friends with BMW and they all have issues which I help them with. I still have all the tools and software etc to code modules. Currently head scratching a 2012 X3 with Wipers which turn on whenever they like. Next weekend a 1 series with an occupancy sensor problem. My IS250 has had rear caliper woes but aside from that, I almost hate the fact I have a garage full of tools yet a car with absolutely nothing to do on it. I changed spark plugs but the old ones looked good, throttle body was still shiny and hardly worth cleaning. In fact, the only thing I need to look at is the drivers side washer jet isn't as powerful as the passengers side. That's all I got! I invested in detailing kit (DA Polisher etc) just to give myself something to do on it.

No, none of that nonsense. The only thing will be the windows to re-learn.

Does it go in and when you start/stop the car, or can you hear the same clicking? Either way, looking at the first few seconds of this clip suggests a fix would not be cheap if it is the gearwheels at 15-18 seconds into the vid.

Thanks guys. I have one of those hand pump vaccuum things as well. I dropped it and oil got into the handle piece, it squishes oil whenever i pump it now. Sends a scam spending 20 on something i need to modify but i can't see any other way aside from building the whole thing from scratch. Seems bizarre to only have a push on lid on the reservoir.

I have one of the Sealy brake bleed kits but the is250 doesn't have a screw cap on the brake fluid reservoir so I can't use it. Sealy do make a universal mount with a chain but the reviews are terrible. Rather than spend £20 on a useless universal mount I need to spend a day modifying does anyone have any alternative suggestions?

I fine ensuring the ECT PWR is turned off makes for a much smoother take off when going over speed bumps. You could always use the Snow mode which should lock out 1st.

I've bought updated disks from Ebay before. After inserting it the screen went to mush, all coloured pixels. Disconnect the battery and reconnecting and it came up okay It seemed to work but I lost voice control, all of it. The next one I bought seemed to work fine and did so for about a month. After that it said "cannot read DVD", everything else died, including the radio. An eject and reinsert sorted it but after it happened for a second time I took it out and frisbeed it into the garage and put the old 2008 original back in. I use my mobile with Waze. I also have a widget to transfer sounds to the car system so I can use Tune-In with it at the same time for music.

I'd give this a go before spending money, seems really common for Toyota

The satnav disk is a dvd, behind the little clock panel. Not sure if my disk changer plays dvd (who own them these days?) But I have inserted a dvd with a few videos I burnt on. It was a bit picky at first, cant recall what format the videos were ,about 750mb per episode but I had a couple in there for a while. 2hrs sat waiting to get out of a supermarket car park I got through 4 episodes of modern family. Can't say I've ever even felt if any air comes out of the rear vent, can't help with that one. My air con is significantly better than my old 5 series. The Lexus blows cold when stationary. The 5 series needed to be going a decent speed (fan was working) to get cold air.

Anyone know how the bootspace on the 2012-2018 GS450H compares to my 2008 IS250? I've been looking for an upgrade but on a lockdown impulse, I bought myself an electric bike. The bike folds in half but to get in the boot of my IS250, I have to remove the saddle and lift out the handlebars to fold them over. With that done it "ONLY" just fits, a bit of wiggling and juggling when closing the boot. I can see the boot volume is larger on the GS450H but not how deep it is to the rear seat. I think if it is even an inch shallower than the IS250 it may be a deal breaker. A 528i is on my list and a Jag XF. I'm not at all keen on brackets, frames and roofracks ruining the look of the car.

I use one of these https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Golvery-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Streaming/dp/B01NACN8PY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Golvery+Audio+Jack+Bluetooth+Transmitter&qid=1610407618&sr=8-3 Had it fitted since 2019 and has been fine. I don't use it for calls though, I only use it for listening to Absolute 80s on Tunein. I don't touch it at all, it sits ignored in the arm cubby hole connected to the Aux In and a double USB socket for power. My phone connects as soon as I start the car. No problems with it dopping out at all. Sound is perfect for a someone like me who listens to 80s music on the wireless whilst driving.

I read the unlock/ lock three times using the blade key in the door somewhere else too. Said it is the immobiliser reset procedure, albeit it was on a much older Toyota.

Worth a punt: Possible Solution Get out of the vehicle. Lock the car with the key fob or lock the driver’s door with the key. Leave the vehicle parked for at least 5 minutes. Press unlock on the keyfob to unlock the car. Don’t open any doors yet. Remove the emergency key from the key fob and lock/unlock the driver’s door three times. Now enter the vehicle and start the engine. If your car has Start/Stop button, press the button with your keyfob, not your finger. https://www.youcanic.com/guide/lexus-wont-start-after-replacing-disconnecting-battery

Two things spring to mind: 1. Electrical oddities are often due to a failing battery. My old BMW used to go crazy, Xmas dash lights, wipers coming on, interior lights coming on etc. Give it a good charge and see what happens 2. Alternator output. Check with a multimeter across the battery terminals. With the engine running you should read 13.5 - 14.5v. If a Voltage Regulator fails, it will output close to 16v so the electricals throw a fit.

Glad to see this post helping people. After three and a half years mine still work fine.

Mine does that too. It's on my list of things to do. Seems the gearing is dirty. Strip down, clean, grease, resssemble.

The pictures you see above are in the front wheel arch, left had side of the car. You can see it by turning the wheel but access to it is best done with the wheel removed There is also one on the rear, difficult to see without jacking the car up.

I'm wondering what the other end is plugged into. Is there any other loose connectors in the armest cubby? May be something like this https://www.gtacarkits.com/product/bluetooth-and-iphone-ipod-aux-kits-for-lexus-is-2006-2013/

Difficult to weld or even drill a couple of holes for a securing plate down there. If it parts, that whole vertical arm with that lower securing bracket will be free to swing about. That is very close to the front wheel/tyre so could be dangerous. You could remove the vertical arm and lose the functionality of the AFS. The light shouldn't be a problem as the car will think it is working but simply not detecting any movement. Mine was like it for years with no AFS light issues.

Well I never did find out but I like to close down threads I've made if I found a solution. I did find a paintcode but only on some American and Candian sites with links to Amazon which either no longer work or the product is no longer available. I took a punt considering two wheel spokes had no paint on them at all, it had all flaked off and looked awful. It seemed I had nothing to lose. I bought this stuff E-Tech 3x Metallic Silver 1x Lacquer 1x Etch Primer Car Alloy Wheel Spray Paint https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-Tech-3x-Metallic-Silver-1x-Lacquer-1x-Etch-Primer-Car-Alloy-Wheel-Spray-Paint/400819415708?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I sanded and primed. I got a bit worried after painting, they looked far too dark as can be seen by placing the hubcap on the wheel After it had dried overnight, the colour seemed to lighten up. Heres a comparison, but consider the fitted wheel is still dirty. I'm sure it isn't perfect but entirely good enough for me. I will clean up the rest of the wheels and see how noticeable it is. I have enough paint to do the rest of the wheels, although if I did all four I may need some more laquer. I might just stick to the two on the same side.

I have some time off soon so I'm going to sort out my peeling alloys. I have a few curb scuffs to sort out so I have some filler coming but I can't tell what paint I need for the wheels. These a bulk standard OEM wheels fitted, this isn't my car but the same as mine. Any idea what paint this is or is is just a standard silver?