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Everything posted by Texas
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Link to Ad is no longer available but easy items to identify a SE-L are, rear electric Sun shade ( not even fitted to IS-F interior panel trim is wood veneer ( real Wood!) and…..
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I just done a search “VLand Headlights” and this comes back…..
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You are right, the more reliable the item the more difficult it may be to get fixed when it goes wrong! My previous heating boiler was a Valiant and worked faultlessly for over 20 years, when it started to play up it was a nightmare to get fixed as 3 plumbers I called could not pinpoint the fault ( I did not want to throw parts at it and said if part they recommended to fit Never fixed it then I would not pay for part, they said that the boiler was so reliable and there was not much ‘history’ of faults so it was difficult to be definite!
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Check out this vid
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Not so sure about the mountain journeys, I’d like to think it was nice clean air up around there. I suspect the previous owners habitat and the fact that Full Lexus Service History does not imply a perfect car…..we all know they do not grease brake caliper slide pins as preventive maintenance so deffo not gonna check in that quite inaccessible place that all that crap accumulated in! I think a combination of the blocked radiator and altitude ended in the overheating situation and prob at lower altitudes the car would have not overheated!
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High beam adjustment
Texas replied to AntC's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
I Think you might have problems come MOT time when headlights are checked! ( if you have to get MOT that is!) Either way after market LED bulbs ( Lamps actually…..”Bulbs Grow & Lamps Glow” an old Electrician told my, more than once, when I was an apprentice sparks) do not normally give out a beam pattern that is workable with the lens and diffusers that are in the car as OEM and have been designed for halogen lamps. Newer cars that have LED headlights are designed for them. I would therefore not want to be driving in front of you at night for very long! -
Vehicle mechanical speedometers usually over read actual speed by about 10%, this is normal as manufactures have to ensure that after 10+ year and 100,000 miles it should never Under Read actual speed, as the parts ( as they are mechanical) wear over time the manufacture would be in a world of s**T if Speedo was to under read.
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Again, until you know Exactly where oil is leaking from then you can’t put a price on repair cost, 1st time I have heard of an oil leak from front of engine on a 250. I would deffo go down route of non-dealership fix. If you think car is not worth fixing ( and just selling on) why the hell are you still taking it to Lexus dealer for routine servicing! gotta ask……what country are you in Boyo to consider not fixing and selling for 50% of market value? Because you car ( depending on condition) could be priced at £2-5,000 in UK right now
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As a point of interest I grew up fixing motorbikes and cars using Haynes manuals for guidance ( pre internet days!) I have just looked and Haynes have an E manual available for the IS250 but not a paper book as such, at £26 it is probably a wealth of information but I can’t see a section for Rear Brake maintenance! It may be in there somewhere! https://haynes.com/en-gb/lexus/is/2006-2010-25-petrol-163403
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Question to Smothope…..do you use your car with the AC On all the time or only turn it on occasionally when it is uncomfortable hot inside the car? reason being is that the AC Should be used on a regular basis ( I suggest 30 mins per month minimum) to keep it in a fully functioning condition so as not to allow things to seize up and for gases and oils to circulate around the system. FYI I run my 250 with AC On all the time and just adjust the temp to suit conditions, in AUTO mode it will run if required.
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“Burning smell when AC is turned on” sort of points towards what I said you should (get) checked, AC pulley is seized and not allowing belt to drive the alternator and I would suggest you now prob need a new belt as well!
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Is 220D Fuel Economy
Texas replied to pauls13's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Are you thinking of getting a Diesel engined Lexus?……..then please don’t, no matter how cheap it may be to purchase you may end up with a money pit ( don’t just take it from me but please check a bit deeper!) Petrol, then that is a different matter ie, IS250 will not cost you much in the long run on repairs compared to many others and especially a 220D. Diesel is much more expensive than petrol right now and the economy ( when it’s running correctly) is not a million miles away from a 250 when driven on longer journeys, having said that you don’t want a diesel for short ( time & mile) journeys anyway. -
Is air con compressor clicking in and out OK? AC pulley may be seized and affecting the drive belt that drives the alternator to charge the battery. run car and check under bonnet that belt is all ok when AC is turned on and off.
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According to the C-Tek manual it says ‘Battery inside vehicle connect to chassis (away from fuel lines!) but I have connected mine with the permanent ring ended C-Tek Comfort connector straight onto battery terminals so 🤷🏼
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+1 on that, this 250 is the first car I have had since 1984 with LESS than 100,000 miles on when bought! ( 4 cars ) Tell a little lie…the second Mondeo I bought had 99,500 miles on it and bloke was selling it because it was gonna get to 100,000 and his Mrs said it had to go! 🙄 it’s got 176,000 on it now😂😂