Tango

I'll give you a clue...you have to be at least 50 years old Age only has advantages re. sons car insurance providing your not also paying for his :eerrrmm:.

Just renewed mine for £360.99, covers everything including PNC. Only thing I dropped this time round was for an equivalent (ah-ah) courtesy car if the Is-F was being accident repaired. As I have a spare car it wasn't really necessary.

Sorry, just noticed this post . You only need SPC ball joints if the car is lowered by more than 30mm, as anything less than that keeps the camber within the recommended Lexus geometry settings (and unlike the first generation IS, they're OK). WIM are correct in that the second generation IS only has toe adjustment, so lowering below 30mm needs the non OEM adjusters fitted to bring the settings back within specification. Here's the ones we fitted to my IS250 Se-L:-

Why would you even think of towing a caravan in Singapore? Does it also say Malaysia ? Same model in Singapore as in the UK, including RH drive so don't understand why it's only 'not recommended' in Singapore. Anyway found this on LOC USA which may (or not) be useful http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/54432-towing-with-is-250/ Lexus UK have a detachable tow hitch available on their site for approximately £479 I notice we were all a bit cruel with our comments the last time someone asked the same question

Thought I read something in the owners manual, when I had mine, along the lines of 'not recommended'?

So are mine...now

Here's mine But I've just noticed my rears have the thicker edge leading :eerrrmm:. Are yours the same all round??? Pretty sure my rears are incorrect, backed up by looking at the official Lexus marketing pics.. Edit. All four rims have different part numbers, e.g. if you check the part number stamped inside the rim of the nearside front, it should be 4261A-53010, or if more convenient, take off the nearside rear and it should have part number 4261A-53030 (or RV 738 depending on MY...offside rear would then be RV741). If either of those are different then the rim has been fitted to the wrong corner of the car. Checking mine now Edit edit Fortunately that was easy enough to fix as the Mitchelin SuperSports are non directional, just switched the rear rims side to side. Note for future use- check for correct orientation when having tyres changed. So just to confirm, thin edge is the leading edge.

Have a look through this lot to get a few ideas. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/386719-2is-wheel-thread-index.html Apart from the different manufacturers, I notice there's also a link specifically for 18" rims. I had 19" rims on my IS250 SE-L 19x8.5 fronts and 19x9.5 rears, but the car was also lowered, otherwise it would have looked slightly odd..

They may have better resistance against corrosion but Poorboys doesn't stop the hot particles in the brake dust from embedding in the coating. The worst area is in the trailing corners where the spokes meet the rim. I have managed to avoid it for the first couple of years, mainly due to changing to Hawk Ceramic pads, but I've noticed my wheels now have embedded particles that claying will not remove. I spoke to the Lexus Cheltenham service manager and he told me that Lexus attempted to meet the customer complaints by using a mild abrasive cleaning pad, similar to 'Scotchbrite', but this only worked for a short time as continued use would eventually remove the colour coat to reveal the primer. I inspected two IS-F's at the dealership, one a 2008 MY, the other a 2010 MY, and both had rims that were a lot worse than mine. Apparently the only solution is refurbishment, but who wants to do that every couple of years?

Mine is due for renewal in May, but I paid £377 last year with 10 years NCB and 1 SP30. Didn't require a tracker but kept in a locked garage.

Well if we're willy waving I'll raise you with my V8 + an extra 167 BHP and mine is definitely a four door family saloon.

Easiest way of checking if you have a grounded live is to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and use a multimeter or ammeter to measure any current drain (connect meter to battery + terminal and the connector you've taken off). If it shows a high drain, identify the problem circuit by keeping the meter connected and removing (and replacing) each fuse in the box until you find the one on the problem circuit. I have a similar problem on my IS200 at the moment, but suspect the battery so taking it to be checked before further investigation. Edit: It was the battery on the IS200, so new battery for £87.00 fixed it, but similar problem on my daughters Corsa was traced by using the above method to a grounded live wire on the radio/hazard warning circuit.

That's some thread resurrection. Have you just logged on after six years? Hah, if only it was 97p a litre for premium :D

Wheel Make & Model: Volk SF-Winning (Gunmetal) Wheel Size (diameter and width): 19x8.5 Front - 19x9.5 Rear Wheel Offset Front:+38..offset extends +13mm to standard/+1mm inner gap Wheel Offset Rear:+42...offset extends +42mm to standard/-16mm inner gap Tyre Make and Model: Toyo T1-R Tyre Size Front: 225/35/19 …diameter 640mm/width 229mm. r.p.mile 824 Tyre Size Rear: 275/30/19 …diameter 650mm/width 270mm. r.p.mile 812 Alternative Front 235/35/19…diameter 648mm/width 242mm. r.p.mile 814 Alternative Rear 285/30/19.…diameter 655mm/width 284mm. r.p.mile 806 Suspension mods: Eibach Pro Kit for IS250 (US spec) Amount of drop: 1.4" Front, 1" Rear Front Camber adjusters OEM Standard fitting 17" RWD: Front: 225/45/17, 17x8 +45mm O/S. dia: 633mm/width 222mm. r.p.mile 834 Rear: 245/45/17, 17x8, +45mm O/S. dia: 651mm/width 244mm. r.p.mile 811 18" RWD : Front: 225/40/18, 18x8, +45mm Rear: 255/40/18, 18x8.5, +50mm

Never measured it but I've regulary driven 25-30 miles after the range reads zero.

I can only say from personal experience that when you rely on a tyre repair aerosol to get you off the motorway, they don't work. It was good news for the AA though, as they gained another member that day.

You may be lucky with the dealership, as usually the corrosion warranty requires a panel to have been perforated rather than surface rust. Probably is if you have blisters under paint that hasn't been damaged.

That's good news then as DOT 5 is a silicone based fluid so it isn't hygroscopic, so disregard my post. I hope that all dealerships follow the required Lexus specifications as 5.1 has one of the highest boiling temperatures available. Edit: Just looked on a Motul website and they apparently sell 5.1 that they say is '100% synthetic brake fluid from polyglycol bases'. If that's correct then water absorption with 5.1 is still a possibility.

I've tracked mine a few times and never had any problems with the fluid that the Lexus/Brembo system is designed for, Never considered changing the brake fluid as the brake system on the IS-F is more than adequate to prevent cooking as long as it's not been in the system too long (as the fluid is hygroscopic). Whether you play safe and use a higher temperature grade is up to you, but if you do not know when the fluid was last changed you may as well replace it with the higher grade as not. Suggest turning off the stability controls on the track as they will not help at all in keeping the brakes at a reasonable temperature. Last thing...keep an eye on your fuel gauge as that V8 has hell of a thirst on the track

Only ever seen one other on the road and that was in a car park of a Company I was visiting in Egham. Co-incidently it was the same colour as mine too (Cadoxton Slate).

That's not a question that can be answered as there's too many variables to consider e.g. standard of maintenance, where and how it's driven and stored etc: etc: My 2001 IS200 Sportnav has only covered 97,000 miles and looks and drives like new, but it's got full Lexus service history and is kept in a heated garage when not in use.

From reading all the posts on the pros and cons of winter tyres I'd have to come to the conclusion that people who say we do not need them are those that have never used them. After living in Norway for a couple of years I got used to driving in cold conditions. The basic misunderstanding, again from people that have not driven on winter tyre compound, is that winter tyres are only required for snow and ice, whereas they're much safer in any temperatures below -7 degrees centigrade. Before the introduction of purpose designed compounds fitting studs was the norm in countries that experienced harsh weather conditions, but the latest compounds have made this largely unnecessary and because studs wear out the road surface, requiring extensive repairs (especially in the tunnels), their use is actively discouraged. I am fortunate in having room to store a spare set of rims, so from November the summer set is changed out for the winter set fitted with Pirrelli Sotto Zeros. They're still on the car at the moment, and I'll not change them back until around mid March. I could go on about passing 4x4 vehicles that have been stuck on the hills in the Cotswolds when we have had snow and ice, but that would only reinforce the argument that it's the only time winter tyres are really necessary, which is far from the truth. Just to clarify, the winter tyres are on IS250 rims on the IS200 Sport, not the IS-F.

Thanks for replying. Maybe the ones I have seen have been lowered? Would coilovers or springs for a 250 fit a 220d? Yes.

There's no reason why they should be different. As far as I know the suspension and body work are identical, with the exception of the rear bumper because of the single pipe, and even then the underbody has the mounting points for the IS250 twin boxes.

Is that an assumption based on the safety call being from Toyota USA? The European and American cars are manufactured in the same factories in Japan so you should assume they suffer from the same problems. Not that this particular issue is much of a problem as it applies to the torque settings of the nuts holding the wiper arms to their drive spindles. Specification says they should be tightened to 19 ft lbs and apparently they've found quite a few that were not, so any additional loading on the arms from clearing snow/ice could slacken the nuts further and stop the wipers functioning correctly. Simple to correct, just prise off the cover caps and torque the nuts to 19 ft lbs. I'll check the IS-F tomorrow just out of curiousity.