BachelorDays

The older Chrysler 300 was using the w210 chassis, a Mercedes engine and the 722.6 w210 transmission with the same issues. Add electrical gremlins from Chrysler. In my opinion these components won't age well, so if you're already starting at 10 years it will be a gamble. The LS fares much better in age as well as mileage so a safer bet. More executive feeling than the Chrysler. 400k kms/year - maths gone wrong somewhere? Otherwise I'd think Lexus even more.

Not sure about the hybrids but with the others a clunk like the one you mention can be associated with the shift lever bushing. Interesting that the fan noise is also coming from around the shift lever position. If a seal or bushing has been disturbed, it could explain the clunk and also the fan noise which you can now hear because the sound proofing has been affected. With a conventional car I'd be looking underneath. But with the hybrids I don't know if this is relevant, so do be judicious in using this explanation.

Should be fun. But be careful. There are bikes out there with larger engines than a Corsa's. Do give us an update if possible.

It's a straight 6 2L block so neat and tidy. You'll need a lift to raise the car when you lower the engine. So certainly doable. Look inside your engine bay and get a feel for the work space you have. Then look from underneath with all the plastic shields removed to see the drop channel. Have you ever dropped an engine block before?

Not quite sure what you're asking. If you want to lower the engine and transmission for removal, you need to put it up on a ramp initially and make the assessment from underneath. Will removal of the sub frame and other suspension/drive components give you enough space for the lowering? The spare engine confuses me more. If you plan doing this more than once, surely you'd get set up for removal from the top.

I'd definitely discuss with the people who've done the refurbishing. But I'd also check the age of the tyres and if they are standard spec for the rims. If tyres are suspected, best thing would be to buy a used tyre for one rim and see if that makes a difference.

I'd've thought the garage has made its suggestion based on the diagnosis that the noise is from the engine. No harm getting a second opinion. If the noise is from in there then they can only find out the nature of the issue, as well as the extent of it, once they've opened it. Another way of saying you most likely need an engine overhaul. As to the arithmetic, you need a quote to decide. You should be able to get a ballpark figure without anyone taking stuff apart. If the noise is not from the engine then never go back to this garage! I can't imagine two garages making the same basic mistake in diagnosis so chances are the garage you go to for the second opinion will give you a better feel for the problem. As a test, see if the noise is different when revving up in idle as opposed to accelerating whilst driving. For a belt issue there won't be much difference. But in any case, get that second opinion. Best of luck.

Just noticed the original post's date stamp! Doesn't look like a current issue any more.

Lots of discussions on a loose fuel filler cap throwing the VSC light. I'd investigate that first. Check the cap and the rubber seal inside it. Also clean the filler pipe opening (careful not to drop any dirt inside). Tighten the cap well. The codes are otherwise typical of a MAF needing a good clean or a change (more likely once you've gone past 120k miles) but the lights going off and then back on like this point more at the fuel cap.

Do you have the full list of codes they got from the car?

All of a sudden going through that puddle becomes more relevant. You can upset a speed sensor with even a high speed car wash spray. This sensor will also cause a limp mode (which the fuel cap/o2 sensor et al faults won't). I hope the garage did look at the sensor for any broken insulation etc. Also a quick visual of the wheel hub.

I remember reading in the manual for my RX 350 that the alarm system has a backup battery of its own. The alarm will go off if this battery is weak.

Great you've narrowed it down. So is it the clock spring or the cruise control switch? I don't know which one is more likely to become faulty in your car. Hopefully it's one of these two and nothing more complicated. I'd still like to see a second light on the speedo to say cruise control is set, in which case could be a bulb in the speedo. But I don't know if you have those two lights in your model. The resume function being temperamental, though, favours a switch/clock spring error.

If the MAF is passing on incorrect data you will have idling and running errors. If you disconnect the MAF the ECU will run in default mode (which always runs rich) and you'll be able to see if there is a difference in your original symptoms. In your case, I would expect the kangaroo behaviour to stop. If it does then you know it's the MAF. I'd read up on running the car with the MAF disconnected just to get to grips with the associated issues. It's normally suggested that you don't run the car for long periods. You may also get a CEL which will reset once the MAF is reconnected.

How about doing a test run with the MAF disconnected? Would rule out a few of the possibilities.

Looks like you found the issue. Good idea to discuss with an auto electrician. Probably an old tracker installation crudely removed.

Easy enough to check fuel pump pressure in the engine bay.

Bearing can't affect the speed sensor. Reluctor ring would. But if anything threw the speed sensor the cruise control would not work. The code could easily be a fused bulb or faulty wire in the speedo or in the switch. Do you get this error all the time or only once you've switched on the cruise control? Can you also accelerate/decelerate with the cruise control switch?

Intermittent electrical faults are the worst. The basics for me would be to check all the earth points. You've already checked the wiring around the ECU housing. How do the solder joints look on the ECU? I'd also check the wiring around the alternator and put one of those volt meters in the cigarette lighter and see if you have steady voltage whilst driving. I'd also examine the battery connectors for loose wires/ corrosion. Finally, I'd test voltage at the battery when cranking cold. Could be low voltage in a start from cold causing an ECU glitch.

Hope it's not because of the puddle because that means a likely exposed wire. I think the knock sensors are pretty hard to access on your engine so not easy to check connectors. I'd still do a bit more with the fuel filler cap. A clean around the filler neck can help too. Do check the rubber seal ring inside the cap as well. You never know.. Just be extra careful not to drop any dirt down the filler pipe. Hope it stays away. Gave me a scare when the dash lights lit up on my first real motorway run after buying the RX.

You were already expecting brakes and suspension work. So no surprises there. Doesn't look bad either (given you knew there were issues here). I'm glad you didn't get any exhaust issues or leaks around the engine block. From what you said about the drive doesn't sound like it has drive issues. So all in all a decent outcome. Like the others, I'm a bit concerned about the gurgling sound as well. Hope it's not a leak inside like in the evaporator.

When you disengage the clutch and take your foot off the accelerator the engine goes into idle mode. It's at that stage that it stalls. Your engaging the clutch brings it back to life but there is the obvious 'jump'. If this is what's happening it's fuel related. You've cleaned the throttle body. You need to check MAF. You also need to consider fuel pump/ filter but I'd've thought you'd have other issues if there was a problem with these.

If it's the accelerator pedal sensor it would misbehave when revving up in idle as well. Having read your original description again, it may well be an idling issue. If you let the car idle does it stall after a while? It could easily be a MAF issue or the idle control valve (which you've probably cleaned already).

In that case just show it to a mechanic, preferably a Toyota Indie. No harm getting a professional opinion and an estimate. Maybe a pressure leak at the rear discs is causing it? I think the cost difference between a Toyota Indie and a non-specialist garage will be negligible. Thing is, you've only had the car a month. You really want a diagnosis first. Specifically on brake fluid, have you checked its level/condition? Any signs of leakage around the reservoir? There's an outside chance of the master cylinder valve resetting itself if you disconnect the battery overnight. Just a thought.

Any Toyota Indie will be able to tackle it. It's just a question of how you plan the rest of it.. ie the rear discs etc. Remember it's only for the bleed that you need a garage with techstream.