Barry14UK

It's most likely that because there are comparatively fewer Lexus cars on UK roads than the premium German cars, there are relatively far fewer Independent specialists for the marque. There was a list compiled of all independents by county with ratings for BMW specialists but I can't remember now whether I got this through being a club member or by searching the net. Such a list for Lexus could prove useful for service and if a problem happened away from home, particularly for owners of older vehicles not wanting to pay Lexus Franchise rates for work. Anybody know is there is such a list for Lexus? I have also noted that the range and choice of parts on ebay for example is far smaller than for main competitors, I suppose this is another aspect where you pay the price for Lexus being more exclusive,

How would you know (other than assume) how a car has been used)? It is mainly the number of cold starts that produce proportionally greater engine wear. My daughter lives in a rather remote area and does a very high mileage taking her children to school and various other activities. She was using her 7 seater SUV for this which car she needs when the whole family go out. However, she has now bought a much smaller car to do the school run, which is more economical and easier to park. So the SUV gets used much less but has mixed purpose use. I only do a small mileage these days, about half of which is for long journeys but having had only premium 6 and 8 cylinder cars for the last 25 or so years, albeit secondhand ones, which I largely maintained myself, I intend to continue this indulgence which is less strain on my back.

I had my car serviced at Lexus Cheltenham in May, I got them to give me the price of their services both standard and essential for the different mileage increments plus of course any additional work found necessary. Having said that, they did offer me inducements to go back to them for service of my car which I had bought from them. (In fairness to them I will not say what these were but I was not offered the receptionist with the coffee LOL) Always worth checking around. Interested to learn what your discussions lead to

Well the authorities have had many years to consider and update but have not changed the regs in this respect, perhaps for the counter reason I posted.

One further thought. Many of the posts in this thread consider only MOT requirements and implications. MOT requirements are becoming increasingly more strict but by no means cover all that is required for a model to obtain Type Approval which is something quite different. If it comes to paying up in the event of an accident do you think that insurance companies will automatically do so because you have passed an MOT but gone outside Type Approval. particularly if you have not run these alterations past them?

I find the 2.5 bar Lexus set my new boots at which is also figure given on plate on B pillar works well. Steering is light and handling reasonable for a top heavy SUV. I would only increase slightly if carrying heavy load and people.

I am sure you are right about 'plugs' being an optional extra with essential service so worth using this for low mileage cars of 5+ years. Howev,er it would appear Jeff was having a standard service at £745

I have read many (but not all of the numerous posts on this thread) and had a similar thought to Alan. Furthermore, let's consider the possibility of an accident whereby a motorist was driving along correctly in her/his lane and was involved in an accident in which s/he claimed s/he was blinded by rear reversing lights of a vehicle backing up directly in front. The stated reason for the accident was investigated and it was found that the car that reversed had had it's lights modified. I think it highly likely that the person who reversed might be landed with quite a bill. As someone said earlier in the thread, at one time only a single light was fitted, the purpose of which was to warn oncoming drivers that a car was being reversed. It was not intended as a major light, otherwise two would be have been been fitted always and the wattage allowed not limited so low. (The regs doubtless preceded the introduction of LED's). Fitting an auxiliary back up light could potentially leave you open to more criticism/risk. Having said that I sympathize with those backing out in dark lanes, made more difficult with the introduction of dark tinted rear screens. Incidentally, I find it annoying when vehicles park on your side of the road facing you with their headlights left on, which would be like having bright reversing lights on a car directly in front of you.

To my way of thinking there should be more flexibility here. Whilst used fluid can degenerate with age as well as mileage, what is the point in replaceing s/plugs at 23500 miles when they will comfortably do 60,000? Surely, this item at least could be left and an adjustment made for the very considerable time saved and the cost of the plugs?

Best to replace pads too along with rotors even if previous pads look OK.

The effects of changing to E10 will not just be limited to cars and vans, it will also affect some older motor cycles and even lawn mowers and some other appliances using the fuel.

This was my experience with a 5 series BMW but same principle and same problem - I will relate. When I bought the car the front discs were worn and rusty. I thoroughly cleaned the hub surfaces and the contact area of the inside of the wheels. calipers, piston ends, sliders etc before and lubricating where appropriate before fitting a well known make of aftermarket rotors and pads. These wheels were correctly torqued using opposing progression. It was OK for maybe 2000 miles but by 3000 miles judder and vibration was so severe that I took the car to have the rotors skimmed while still in place and the pads were ground flat and reused. The cost of skimming the rotors in place was just over half that of buying new ones. However, the same thing happened again and at the same sort of mileage. This time I decided to buy some new rotors from BMW and use ATE pads (of which I had had a good experience on a Mercedes.) These have done about 12000 miles now without problem and the car had the same tyres and tracking throughout. I don't brake for long and hard to the extent that the rotors would get to the very high temperatures the rotors would need to reach before there was a chance of them warping. The pads were free to move and run out checked on all occasions replacement rotors were fitted. This leaves the more usual possibility of pad material being picked up by the rotors and partly transferred to and fro between the two. Maybe the original pads I fitted were not good. Also, perhaps I did not break the pads in well enough or another possibility is that after the rotors were quite hot I held the brake on at traffic lights or for others reasons whilst stationary allowing the transfer of pad material.

And there I was thinking that with your experience and the high price you agree Lexus charge for servicing, you might be setting up as an independent, maybe offering members here a good rate!!

Usually it's the other way round ie owners with new or near new go to Lexus whereas after a few years they try to save by going elsewhere.

That wording is too vague as detailed by dealer because it could be construed as just topping up which is not saatisfactory. As my car will be 5 years old at the next service I was contemplating going on to 'essential service' but before doing so will again ask specicically what will be done. (As brake fluid change on my car should have been done as part of normal service this year it won't need to be done until 2021). I did ask at the service this year what difference there was between 'normal' and 'essential' service and was informed verbally that they were the same but that Lexus don't want to lose business so just use this terminology to reduce the service price.

Yes it does need getting used to. Most of the time you don't notice the slight 'roar' and to me a feeling this is like clutch slip. The changes on a good conventional auto box are barely discernable nowadays with no significant change in noise or feeling like clutch slip and I prefer this to the CVT one although it's not a dealbreaker as the RX has a lot going for it overall

A lot depends on your budget and if you buy privately non franchised dealer or from franchised Lexus dealer. You probably get better assurance and warranty from a Lexus Dealer but cheaper elsewhere which sometimes can result in a satisfactory purchase. Check service history and condition.

Not sure if the same applies with Lexus but well known on BMW - at least on my 5 series that small stones get caught up in the backplates with more chance of lodging against rotors. Had this a couple of times and reversed quite quickly in empty car park and then braked hard. Stones were ejected. This is quickest and easiest method although some people use compressed air.

I think my Premium with air suspension handles quite well for an SUV and I have had a few sports saloons to compare with. However, the air suspension was dropped for the 4th Generation and I have not been able to ascertain whether this was due to long term problems, price saving or the fact that suspension has been improved in the current models to the point where there is no significant advantage in using air suspension. I note that road testers have said that the Audi Q5 rides much better with air suspension but can't find a side by side evaluation for the 3rd Generation Lexus RX.

Well the way things are going I can see a time when you will not be allowed to touch the controls except in an emergency. Basically, with perhaps a few other instructions you will just need to say a destination and what music you want at the outset and all will be done for you. In effect we will have moved from the 'Horseless carriage' to the near 'Driverless car'!

Welcome from me too, Be sure to make yourself known on the RX model forum where there is mutual support. I find it a strange set up and feel it would be helpful if all first introducing themselves here (as I did this year) automatically have their introductory post also posted under a suitable heading within the area for their model(s) as many members do not look at this rather remote area for new members and just turn to their model category to seek and offer help.

Nav on my RX450h told me I had arrived at my home address over a mile and several turns before doing so and again when I did arrive home. It also took me out of my way a number of times on several trips. A great shame because the graphics are good and the lady giving the recorded instructions as set when I bought the car has a very pleasant voice. Also, being well recessed into the dash there is not the glare seen in some other Lexus and marques where is looks like the Nav has been perched on the dash like an afterthought. I too have opted for a TomTom (a 6 inch model) with both free maps and camera updates. I found the optimum position is to the right of the steering wheel. I made a platform for mine as after an experience on another car, I didn't wish to risk the suction arrangement to fail and startle me when driving. Pics of TT mounted seen in this thread (sorry for duplication of pics couldn't edit these out) -: Not the pic shown by radio which site has automatically embedded but as in thread several times!

Mileage at time of purchase will have a bearing on price. I believe that a properly maintained RX is a very reliable car and copes well with high mileage but Lexus maintenance is quiet expensive and insurance puts it into a high classification.

Great result. Now you need to get your neighbour to join us!

In this link the specialist says in answer to a question that he hasn't experienced the enigne rattle with the 2GR-FXE which I assume is the engine in the OP car.