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Showing results for tags 'is220d'.
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Hi Guys, Little dilemna going on here, need second opinion. Car details: Lexus iS220d 2007 Mileage: just under 180ish k km) 2 owners from new (got car with 120k km from previous owner) Modifications: Remapped to 510nm torque and 210bhp, upgraded GS350 6pot brake calipers and bigger discs, lowering springs, V-LAND tail lights, sport flat base steering wheel, twin exit stainless exhaust system from Honda S2000, original GS300 alloy wheels , boot spoiler, K&N filter, blocked 5th injector. Probably forgetting something. Long story short i have looked after the car and spend over 2-3k on upgrades. The car has exceptional Power/Weight ratio and most importantly fuel efficiency about 5-6 ltrs/100km. Last year i was unfortunate to put in bad diesel from a local garage and instantly noticed puff of black smoke, However being naive thought it was my eyes or paranoia. Anyway ended up changing 4 injectors (no-one told me they were priced as GOLD) , air filter, cleaned EGR valve. Finally came to conclusion it was bad fuel (probably damaged the replacement injectors too). Car has been sitting last 4months at least due to bad weather and now weather has improved but it won't start just cranks. Is this worth fighting the war to fix it, I keep thinking i am almost close to fixing the issue, I am currently using LS600h as daily but i would prefer to have the Sporty IS220d manual as daily and the LS for long trips. Problem is i have no garage space to actually take it apart to inspect any internal components and having played around with it, its probably going to be hard to get a mechanic willing to take a look at it as the road-worth test is expired since Dec 22. Attaching photos of what i was getting on Techstream when it was still starting, I have a few post here where i shared video/photos but can't figure out how to re-share. I have connected Techstream but no codes. Possible cause from my understanding: - not starting (probably weak battery even though i charged it nearly 2 days but never goes past 13.5v, i am thinking cranking Amperage is weak or fuel pump) - black smoke (bad fuel, bad injector/s leaking fuel causing over-fueling) Any pointers/advice much appreciated. Diesel Black Smoke Test.pdf June 11th injector 34 cleaned..pdf Not starting accelerate sticking to floor.pdf
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Hi, after suffering an issue for YEARS with my Lexus IS220D (I just couldn't bear to part with it), I came across the diagnosis to my problems in this post on this brilliant forum (should have joined earlier!!)... https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/107523-potential-fix-for-is220d-white-smoke-smells-of-diesel-poor-mpg/?&page=3#comments I spoke to a Toyota specialist about looking into this (this is way above my mechanical knowledge, wouldn't know where to start) and he mentioned he thought he recalled a 5th injector recall. I've also seen it referred to on this forum, by an IS220D owner. However I have called Lexus and they say nothing is showing as outstanding on my car (56 plate IS220D). Would anyone know anything about this please? If not, I think I just need to get the 5th injector replaced and pray, but any more info around this that I can share with my mechanic would be great if anyone has any experience. I don't think it's the wiring, as I've tried disconnecting the battery for a while so it 'unlearns' but the problem (smoking, smell of diesel) is immediately apparent, and from what I've read it would take a little while to return if the wiring was the issue. Thank you!
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Hello! So I've recently changed my car battery on my IS220D 2009 model, some of the memory was reset such as seats but no radio or nav was reset. However I have just noticed that the side door floor foot panels where the lexus logo would be is not lighting up anymore as well as the interior lights when u unlock the car or open the door as they would turn on but none of that is happening anymore.. Is there a quick fix/reset for this? Has anyone else encountered this before? I'd much appreciate any help on this thanks!
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Hello people! I have an issue with my is220d, it’s an LHD car and has 260k km on the clock. a couple of days ago, the nightmare begun, when for some reason, the engine start bottom doesn’t show any colors, it just stays with the backlight in and if I press it, nothing happens. I tried looking the battery, it’s ok. I looked all the ground, it’s ok. I looked all the fuses, they are ok. I will be honest, the car is an ex flood damage, but the car worked perfectly until a couple of days ago. I bought the car really cheap but now I’m “balls deep” in it so I can’t just sell it because I will end in a huge loss, plus I really love the car so no reason for me to get rid of it. Going back to the issue, I removed the module that should decode the key and make the car go brum brum, (89670-53030) since I saw that the same issue happened to other people as well, they had the code b2799 but I can’t scan the car because the dash won’t turn on. anyway the only guy that fixed it said he heated it up with a hairdryer, I tried it, no work for me, I tried two different modules, no life at all. so I’m asking y’all for some help. anyone has ideas? 68694855583__D8F4725B-96FD-4CD4-B613-1CD5219D47E6.MOV
- 22 replies
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- dont start
- keys
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Hi Lads, I've a 2009 IS220D that has thrown a tantrum with its electronics. I was driving yesterday and everything was perfect, engine was running smooth and all electronics working fine. However I went to start it today and the power steering light and ABS light stayed on. Now the power steering doesn't work, the dash display shows no values for outside temp/Fuel range etc, the electric windows don't work from the drivers switch and the engine temp gauge doesn't move on the dash. The check engine light is not on and nothing else is displayed on the dash. It also seems to be a bit dead when out of boost, I know the lag feel is fairly large on these engines but it seems more like its in limp mode now until it comes on boost, then it feels fine. I checked all the fuses in the drivers side, passenger side and engine bay and they are all intact. The battery seems ok as it doesn't struggle to start and I measured the alternator charging at just over 14V and battery at around 12.8-13V with the engine off. Has anyone any idea what can be causing this? I'm guessing its the ECU but I'd rather see if this has happened anyone else before I start ordering parts. Thanks.
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I really wanna upgrade my exhaust. The stock one looks ugly, single pipe pointing to the ground.. Where could i get one?
- 5 replies
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- exhaust
- aftermarket
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Hi, IS220 has 167000 miles on it and started to give me plenty of things to fix. The latest one has me stumped. The pulley on the tensioner keeps getting pushed off the bearing. Got a second hand tensioner and same thing. Have checked the alignment of the alternator to the crank and it seems good. All bearings and pulleys seem smooth with no wobbles. Marked the crank and looks like harmonic balancer hasn’t separated. Has anyone had similar issue or any ideas on what else I can check. Thanks
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I am buying a Lexus IS250 or IS220d. I live in Norway so I will not be paying more on one of the vehicles besides the actuall pay sum. So I can buy a stock 2007 IS250 or a 2007 IS220d with upgraded lightes (front and back), upgraded suspenison and comes with brand new tires. Also its a 4500£ price difference on these 2. So I know about the head gasket problems on the IS220d and the gear range on the gearbox. But are these problems big enough to close the price difference? Thanks!
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Hello fellow Lexus owners! I'm new here and came to this forum looking for advice as other mechanics in my city have been hopeless in solving this mystery. I am quite a beginner to car mechanics so any help would be appreciated I drive a 2007 Lexus IS 220d and the problem is that after ignition the engine stalls after about 10 or so seconds. After re-ignition the same problem sometimes happens again, sometimes not. Sometimes its possible to press the accelaration pedal to "catch" the moment of the stalling and get over it (in this case the engine does not stall anymore). In time this has a huge load on the battery and I had to change it once already. Also, the idle RPM is ruff at times and even in the summer the RPM sometimes jumps to 1,2k in the beginning (I was told this is just a way for the engine to heat up more quickly but as it is summertime now and about 23 degrees C, I don't think this should be right). The DPF has been removed and the EGR valve has been switched off. No check engine lights for this as well so not possible to see issue via OBD. Thanks for any help!
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Hi, I have a 2006 IS220d which has the common issue of white/blue smoke from the exhaust. Having done a fair amount of reading up on the topic I am fairly confident that it is being caused by the fifth injector because if I disconnect the battery the issue goes away for a couple of days. I have done other checks and I am fairly confident that it is the 5th injector as opposed to the turbo or indeed the headgasket. The car is driving perfectly and is returning good mpg (for one of these) at just shy of 47mpg on a run. I am aware that some people say this is normal and is just the car doing a DPF regen, but it does seem to be an excessive amount of smoke. I was just wondering if anyone has heard of a fix to this issue permanently as opposed to just disconnecting the battery. (I know a lot of people say to do the classic egr off, dpf off, ad 5th injector off + remap, but I wont be doing that at the moment) I love the car and i'm hoping this small niggle with it can be fixed. Thanks In advance
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Hi, I'm hoping someone can help. I recently bought a IS220d F Sport (2010) to replace my '07 IS220d with 175k miles. The new car felt sluggish at low revs so I thought ok, ERG valve.....which I've cleaned I's say 3x previously on the old car. Sure enough, the valve is clogged with soot - worst I've seen (car has 68k so I suspect never done). However now that I've cleaned the assembly I've noticed something that doesn't seem right. The valves are not sitting in their seats on the body of the housing. It's as if the valve mechanism is not retracting fully. This presumable allows gases to pass through the valve constantly. I'm attaching a couple of pictures which hopefully show what I'm probably describing very poorly. Any thoughts very welcome. Scott
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Hi all, does anyone know where I can get the high and low caps that go on the air con ends? regards Joel
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Hi all, so I had my aircon re gassed by a aircon specialist and even though the car has taken on the correct amount no cold air is blowing out. when I turn on the ac I can’t hear then any engagement like it us too before. Also my engine fans have stopped working could they both be related. The specialist will be back out Monday to use some software that Will isolate the aircon sides of things I was just wondering has anyone had similar issue? could it be as simple as a fuse? the compressor is new as it was replaced by Lexus Teeside less than a year ago. regards Joel
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Hello all, Just been thinking about all the problems associated with the IS220d and i was wondering did any of them ever get fixed from factory throughout the years of production such as a better head gasket design, more reliable injectors, 5th injector, DPF etc? I currently have a 2008 model with 101k with no problems as of yet apart from seized caliper pins in each caliper, i would of liked to keep it as long as i could but the thought of several expensive problems as ticking time bombs is putting me off. Thanks
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- is220d
- reliability
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Not long bought an is220d, but theres a chronic oil leak on the car, some coming from the turbo inlet, but the other side of the engine is caked with old engine oil, its all over the anti roll bar, cables and pipes in that location. The question I have is, where is the oil pipe going that sits under the radiator. Its a very thin metal pipe with rubber pipe each end. Mine was detached at one end! Im hoping this is partly the cause of the oil covering everything in that part of the engine.
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Hello all! As you can see from the photo my lower rear caliper pin on each side is seized into the caliper. Would the heat from a flame help release this along with a hammer? i dont want to strip the threads for the blind pin Any advice appreciated! Thanks
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Hi there, I have 2006 lexus is220d. Currently they have standard 16" 7j alloys. Can the following fit: 2 x FRONT 08457-30813 8 x 18 ET45 2 x REAR 08457-30811 8.5 x 18 ET50
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Hi all, my 07 220d developed a warm start ( or actually non start problem) this year. Generally doesn't matter but the it failed it's annual NCT (Irish MOT) as it wouldn't start at all. Local garage changed the fuel filter but couldn't find any fault. I plan to buy a new sensor and fit it, I've nothing to lose!. 2 questions: 1 do I have to take the air con compressor off and is this a big job ( apart from refilling the gas)? I'm moderately good with tool;s ( sparks, filters brake discs that sort of level). 2 what are the chances of this working?? Thanks in advance. Phillip
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Hi all, so my air con compressor has packed in and needs replacing, the noise it’s making sounds like metal vibrating around when the engine is on and the air con is off or on. I can see the pully has seized too. Car drives fine but sounds awful 😥 Has anyone had this issue and what was the cost to get it repaired. Have seen a Denso compressor on eBay £345 so not sure if that’s a good deal or not and get a garage to fit it? Regards joel
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I have recently had a refurbished engine fitted to my 2007 IS220D after being told it would be cheaper than getting the head gasket repaired. all is now fitted, all the dash lights act as they should do the only problem is the start/stop button (despite going green) is not starting the engine, there is no response from the engine whatsoever. Has anyone any ideas what the problem could be?
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this seems to be a very common discussion on the internet but not a single person returned and posted what fixed it for them.... this car just wouldn't start one morning, cranks fine, it's not battery or immob or anything like that. checking the car over there is no pressure getting to injectors and the engine will fire if some brake cleaner is squirted into the intake- so it's a fuel delivery problem. started from the back first, I've replaced the in tank pump and filter, still no difference, without chucking money at parts in the hope of fixing it, has anyone who has fixed this issue or knows of the fix got anything documented somewhere or values for sensors to be tested? thanks.
- 6 replies
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- starting
- fuel pressure
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