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OldTrout

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Everything posted by OldTrout

  1. See http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ for a simulation and explanation. There is no clutch either. John
  2. Thanks Herbs. I researched dash cams a while back and thought this one was promising. It is good to read that you are finding it very good. John
  3. Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-CS-M5-Heavy-Duty-Ball-Joint-M5-x-0-8-Thread-Swivel-Rod-End/232530903648?epid=3007618495&hash=item3623ec0260:g:viAAAOSwCMFZ6kkD:rk:13:pf:0 perhaps? John
  4. Shahpor, You have one of theses fancy Mk 4s so it may not be the same but there was a thread about a startup noise on Mk 3s. From memory it was thought to be due to no oil somewhere high up on the engine where pressure holds a mechanism in position. Lack of pressure and it isn't held tightly and rattles a bit. VVT perhaps? As soon as the oil pressure builds up the rattles stop. You say doesn't happen very time the engine is started but only when it has stood overnight. If it is the same Britprus has a cunning fix but it's not one Lexus would do for you. He will advise. John
  5. I know the Gen 3 is mouse-free but you might have had a curtesy car🙂 Ah ha. As I suspected. Hercule
  6. John, Keep most of the worms in the bag and tell us how you find the Lexus mouse. John
  7. I wonder if the difficulty drivers have with the mouse in a RHD car is because they are right handed. All the skills we have with computer mice in the right hand have to be relearnt in the left hand. Any left handed drivers care to comment? John
  8. The new year had started well until this post. I'm not coveting. I'm not jealous. I don't want to know if it has the lovely rich cream leather and black and grey shimamoku trim. Honestly I don't. Has it?
  9. I too had brief thoughts about going to a Mk 4. My 2007 SE-L is not in perfect condition but it does have SR and ACC. Why ACC was made an option on the later Mk 3s and on all Mk 4s is a mystery to me. It is fitted to other (lower cost) models in the Lexus range so why not the GS450h? The Reading one looks good but the extra cash I would need would pay for a lot of repairs so I have given up looking. John
  10. Hi David, I have read on this forum about the isolation switch not being fully slid over. You think you have done it but it has not moved over completely and the last little bit is what connects. This is from memory but if I have it wrong somebody will pop up in a minute or so. John
  11. Were these before and after pictures? If the LEDs are the bottom picture have you used them in fog yet? If so, were they better than the old lamps? John
  12. Perhaps it would be helpful here to add a bit about colour. Blue light scatters more than red. So if you are driving through something which does cause lots of scattering like mist or fog, then blueish lights are not going to penetrate so far and worse some of the scattered light comes back at you reducing what you can see even more. This is why fog lights are reddish rather than blueish and/or have an orange window. So 4300K for fog lamps. For headlights I think OEM are 4300 but 5 or 6000 possibly better? John
  13. Did you have this bother before you had wheels balanced and alignment done? John
  14. If you start from 35psi then 5psi drop is about 14%. To achieve this by temperature alone would require about 40 degrees drop. Unlikely in England I think? John
  15. OK When you replaced the high voltage battery you would have removed the fan from the top of the battery. Did you make sure this was clean when you put it back? John
  16. Welcome Dragan. I don't have an answer but like Vlad think somebody will be able to help. Could you just clarify something. Which battery did you replace? The 12V one or the high voltage traction battery? John
  17. Definitely worth a punt for non-smokers. Have ordered one. John
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