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When you disconnect the sensors do they correctly trigger DTCs? Yes crankshaft position sensor is under the alternator, so absolute beast to access, although I assume it could be disconnected from under the car "Paperclip method" is just sure way to reset it in short period of time. In theory disconnecting the battery should achieve the same results, maybe overnight, maybe in a day, maybe in 3 days, so it is not 100% reliable. Connecting positive and negative terminals indeed should shorten that period, but again it is not known how long exactly does it take. As such there is procedure to connect two pins on OBD2 port and it takes exactly 30 min (to be safe I set the timer to 45 min). Note: this should be done carefully, because it is possible to damage the pins in the port and then you will lose access to diagnostic, correct way to do it (how Lexus does it), they have a plug that shorts those pins, so using correct diameter paperclip is another "hillbilly" method. Myself I got cheap OBD2 extension cable from amazon, cut it and connected the correct wires (costed me like £2.5). 1. with ignition on OFF, connect the two terminals 2. turn ignition OFF>ACC>ON (do not attempt to start the engine, so do not press the brakes) 3. leave for 30min + (make sure the battery is charged or charging as if the battery dies during the process it will fail) 4. turn ignition ON>OFF 5. remove the clip

Low miles (genuine 46K from new), FDSH (Lexus), anything needing done has been done but it's been very reliable. This was a top spec F Sport when I bought it. I waited 6 months to find the right one in the right colour with the right spec. As well as the usual F-Sport refinements, this one has the Mark Levinson sound system, roof rails, HUD, full LED cornering headlights, cruise control, Sat Nav. Spec is pretty huge. Just had the big full service done, has another year's Relax warranty which can be extended to 18 months if an intermediate service is done within the next 6 months. The car needs nothing. Everything works as it should, engine is superb, quiet and refined. Only one minor rattle which it's had from new (fixed small air vent on drivers side can occasionally buzz) other than minor niggle that it drives like a new car. Bodywork is well above average for year with only one very minor dint (no paint damage) noted recently possibly done in a car park, but only visible from certain angles in certain light...you have to look hard to spot it! Drivers side door has a tiny thumb nail size scratch but the rest of the car cleans and polished up to showroom. Wheels (thankfully) have never been kerbed or damaged. Brakes are all good (new front discs a year ago) and one rear trailing arm bushing done under warranty last year. Hybrid system is perfect and flew through hybrid health check again this year. MOT is up until end of 2024. This spec in this condition with such low miles fetches around £17 to £18k I am after a quick sale so will accept £16K or VERY near offer and it's a stone cold bargain at that. If I part ex it, Lexus will have it on the forecourt for closer to £18 to£19K

I’ve had the cover off and everything is connected as expected. I’d delve further but seen as it’s under warranty, I’ll leave it for Lexus to sort. (I’ve an original defender requiring new discs, callipers and pads to keep me busy at the weekend). I did wonder whether during the service there was an engine software update? (It was a full service).

Thanks Linus. I did take the camshaft position sensors out, stared at them, cleaned them, spayed contact cleaner in the plugs and refitted. Same for Vanos solonoids to ensure they are free to move about. Not done Crankshaft sensor, not tried to locate it but from a youtube clip I saw, looks a swine to access. I do have a spark plug light tester but not used it yet. I was convincing myself if there was no spark there would be an error somewhere. All modules respond on Techstream. I went through them all individually just to satisfy myself. I'm not familiar with the paperclip reset but the battery has been disconnected for lengthy periods, would this not achieve the same? I recall on my old BMW th advice was to disconnect the battery and touch the Pos and Neg cables together, this would drain any capacitor charge in the ECUs. Seems drastic but many did it to no ill effect. I have some Carb cleaner so the hillbilly method of spraying directly through the throttle will be conducted soon.

hi cosmin, I will check the ones on my car and see how they compare. I wouldn't know if this cracks would affect the drive train so i will leave that to someone more knowledgable regards brendan

Yes, NFU were a little more than Lexus. I've heard very mixed reviews on Tescos Pete...good cover but terrible customer service if you need to make a claim seemed to be the consensus. I'd always pick a company which has a reputation for swift, easy to access customer service, especially claims! It may be worth you trying Lexus insurance as having dealt with them before, I can't speak highly enough of the customer service they gave.

Lexus Insurance was just over £1000, RAC was closer to 1100 and One Call was £548 (not £545...typo) hence my three shortlisted were Lexus/RAC/One Call. Having dealt with Lexus before, they are great at customer service with UK based operators, easy to get hold of and pleasant to deal with. Can't speak for the others. One Call I understand are web only, no tel number shown. I've since received a quote from Churchill. Their Essentials policy was £620 and about the same as Lexus for their top cover For interest, I shopped around for an alternative car, which was a 2023 Mazda CX60. It was the only other SUV I'd have considered. By comparison, average quote for that based on the same levels of cover was £450 annually fully comp, so I think I'd rather pay a few hundred extra for insuring the Lexus. I checked and the Lexus I'm after has the steel plate mods done, a Thatcham approved alarm and I'l be moving my dashcam across to it.

A local shop.

Sounds a lot like my problem with immobiliser. Although in my case it would fire once and then die. No error codes part is really annoying as with the complexity of modern cars it is like finding needle in the hay stack, even with codes is often difficult, but without the codes it is damn hard. I have few ideas, but they all would (or at least in theory should) trigger the error codes e.g. fuel pressure sensor, crank shaft position sensor... things like that should trigger the codes if they don't work. So in principle - you say you have air, not sure about fuel and not sure about spark? Regarding air - check if ETB operates as expected, could be dead ETB (again should give code, but who knows), it would be good to test spark with the tester (light)... also you can try backyard mechanic trick of spraying some starting fluid into intake... in which case if engine starts even for a second it would prove you have spark and issue is most likely fuel. If you had dead ETB, then car should still start and idle (ETB does not full close for this exact reason). What worries me is you no-code issue, almost like comms with ECU dead, because logic says - if engine does not start then there should be errors, many of them! So the worry here would be that something electrical is shorted, which is real disaster on these cars. You could try full ECU reset with the paper-clip and see if that maybe wakes it-up and shows some codes.

Wouldn't it have been cheaper to buy the rear Dashcam as well? On My 350H Takumi I paid £350.00 front / rear fully fitted by Lexus with a 32gb memory card . You obviously could have done it way cheaper because you installed it yourself, just a word of caution my 32gb card fills up quickly, I'm looking at a Kingston 128gb card from Amazon, I did try Next Base cards but are asking silly money for it

hello. I just post it for the future, maybe my post will find someone in few years and be helpful. I had a leak above the tank. I used metarials posted in this topic (find my answer) and it cost me 45$. In Poland services wanted 2500USD from me for replacing this hose. It's sick. After recharge gas, my AC still didn't work. AC compressor didn't start at all. The next issue ( I didn't know that is the issue, because I bought this car like 2months ago) was that on the consuption computer I could see electric motors, wheels, engine but I haven't seen arrows which shows where the power/energy goes at the moment - power flow. it showed B1473 and B1498 fault codes!!! I found that one hybrid plug wasn't connected properly (in my case it wasn't connected at all). The plug I am talking is on the different side of car than the compressor AC is. I dont have any photo unfortunately, but it's very easy to see that. If you are under the car you need to remove the first cover which is under radiators and front of the engine. after that, you will immediately see on the passenger side (my car is LHD) big orange plug, at it wasn't connected in my scenario. I connected the plug, AC comes back immediately, working perfect, and I can see power/energy flow going to/from wheels.

My car was running fine, parked up then 4 days later it won't start. Engine cranks over but doesn't catch and start, just cranks then dies. Battery is about 2yrs old and reads 12.3V. I charged it anyway but no change. I used Jump Leads from another car but no change, just cranks and doesn't start. No engine light and no error codes whatsoever. Checked all fuses both in Engine bay and under the dash - all good Checked the big fuse block in the engine bay - continuity across the whole bar so all good. I can hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is turned on. Running Techstream (see Graph): Ignition ON Engine OFF (obviously) I can turn the Fuel Pump on and can hear it running. Fuel Pressure is 46 psi in the graph but mostly 44psi, seen it as low as 26psi after I opened the fuel cap to release pressure. I can't find anything definitive but as much as I can tell, the LPFP should provide 30-60psi so I guess that is okay, also as I can see a changing pressure, the Fuel Pressure Sensor seems okay. The pressure does not change when I'm cranking though. I would expect to see the fuel pressure leap up when the HPFP takes over and ramps it up nearer the Fuel Pressure Target Value (way higher than 46psi). I would aslo expect to see some kind of Duty Cycles on the Fuel Pump but they remain static at 0% I'm not sure if I'm barking up the wrong tree entirely, normally a broken starter just clicks but this one cranks. I though perhaps it is cranking a bit too slugishly so doesn't have the Oomph to catch properly, not discounted this yet but I'm running out of ideas. I did pull a couple of spark plugs and both seem fine. Air Supply - Good Fuel - Questionable Spark - No Errors or engine lights. I would hope if there was nothing going anywhere it would flag an error. Any ideas before the big hammer comes out? Radiator was recently changed as it split and covered the engine bay. Engine did not overheat. Coolant level stable Oil looks fine Head Gasket tester used with no change to the liquid in the test tube. Car has been driven over 200miles since the radiator change with no problems.

yo man. I just literaally repaired this leak for 45$ like 3weeks ago maybe. What do you need : x x2 - in Poland (where I am from) it costs 60PLN = 15 USD 1m of aluminium pipe - 1 USD in Castorama x1 around 50PLN = 12 USD then these things : 50PLN = 12 USD = 60x2 + 50 + 1 + 50 = 221 PLN = 45 USD it took me maybe 3 hours but I restored few screws holding some covers just in case. It's easy as hell o course if your faulty one is the smaller one(aluminium, not with rubber) . Simply you cut off the original pipe before and behind the tank. There is completely enough space to do it. cut it off, fit new pipe, use leaklock, use metal connection and voila. In Poland nobody wants to repair it for me (I wanted to someone replace whole pipes for me) and after 15 calls only one guy said OK but it will cost 10k PLN = 2,5k USD. WTF. And I got annoyed and did it myself. for 45$. If youwould need any questions, fell free to ask.

That's a good price! What's the compulsory excess standing at and the annual mileage? I assume its SDP use only and you have a maximum NCD.

VVTI problem likely due to differed maintenance, or very high miles car, not something common Water pump is normal service item - do it every 60k miles and it is fine, although not doing it can cause catastrophic damage - but that is how engine cooling works, overheat the engine and it will be end of it. Brake callipers is really the only common one, the rear brake calliper design is just dog sth on IS250, so ideally twice a year it needs to be taken apart, cleaned and greased, otherwise it rusts solid. Engine slushing-up is not the problem that I have heard of, burning oil - fair, carbon build-up - US only, I guess if the oil is not changed in time, then it could happen to any engine, but not particular issue on IS250. As Lucas said, just replace oil regularly and you will be fine, I also recommend 6-Month/5000 miles internals rather than 10,000 miles. Yes - you need to be actively looking for the car with good service history, that is literally what separates money pit vs. best used car one the market when it comes to IS250. Lexus/Toyota parts are generally considered expensive, but when it comes to Lexus the issue is not so much cost, but availability. Almost anything you need for IS250 will have to come from US/Japan/Middle East. Lexus Parts Direct now does quite a lot of stuff, but prices are often out of this world. The flip side - Toyota parts last forever, so it is not like typical BMW BS where some £300 sensor needs to be replaced every 6 months and there are 6 of them in the car. Now sure - getting car with 140k miles always increases the risk that you may be that sucker who needs to replace that part for the first and the last time, because by the time it will need replacing again the car will be 30 years old and 300k miles pile of scrap already. But again - Lexus and IS250 in particular really just needs timely maintenance and that is all... I will try to find my write-up for my 200k miles IS250 expenses, outside of regular maintenance it needed very little extra love. Not sure whats up with 2005 IS250 not being recognised by Brum clean air zone, must be mistake on their system, they are identical otherwise. Also if 2005 GS300 passes the requirements, then there is no way IS250 does not. As for E10... I have been running these cars on E85 and nothing happened, so they happily chuck E10 and continue going, not picky at all. Many countries in Europe have E85 ad their default fuel and thousands of IS250 runs on it everyday without issues. Also one member here did in depth comparison with all parts remotely related to fuel system and found that 2 o-rings in fuel pump have different part number between pre and post-2007 car. So if you looking at 140k miles car, then likelihood is that fuel pump was already replaced and if it was not, then all you risking is replacement fuel pump, which you likely going to need anyway. It is not cheap part (~£300, or £600 with labour from dealership), but again as far as engine and all else considered it will be fine. You will be the one rare guy who likes wood trim 🙂 if you happen to get SE or SE-i, let me know, I have few of them lay around! LOL

I intend keeping mine so yes it had to be done. I don't think about what iffs...oh now I've said it!

Just looking at the classicscarforsale website and there's a boootiful looking P reg Mk3, with 228k miles BUT clearly showing paintwork shedding it's lacquer coats ( or more ) Door and rear wings etc. Wot to do eh to get back to impossible perfection .... or nay ! 🤔 Malc

I think that’s the same thing as F Sport with Takumi pack - just how they show it in the configurator. A NX (whether 350 or 450) F Sport with Takumi pack has been more expensive than the Takumi model since launch. The features within each has slightly changed over time (e.g. option to get ML audio).

Tonight in the impossibly cutesy medæval village of St Benoît de Sault. In a 700 year old house of course.

That's a bit too much for me, I still have to wait a few months to save up and I'm trying to stay away from white cars, harder to keep clean and my neighbours have a pine tree right next to my parking space and my current car turned from white to black/green. Won't stay its colour for more than 3 days.

Ignore that, doesn't happen. Never seen this problem in the UK. Change your oil every 5k, put decent fuel in, red-line it every now and again and you won't have any issues. I see, worth a try I guess, but who knows if they'll accept it.

A set of Brembo F&R discsfor a Lexus ISF. These have set in a garage for a a few years unused, damp has soaked into the cardboard and put some surface rust on the discs. One of the rears has no box but is unused. The front pads are Brembo and the rears are a ceramic. Discs can be cleaned up with wet & dry or fitted and used. Nothing has ever been fitted to a car. Due to weight these are for collection only from just outside Tonbridge Kent. If I can find some suitable boxes, I could pack them for a courier collection Price is £425

I saw a few videos that talked the oil thickening but can't remember which video or more details. Wow, £480 with mods is extremely good, you must either have some NCD saved up or a really good area where you live. I'm 25 and I never had insurance on my name (IYKYK), but when I was 18 I did a thingy through a friend and I have around 6 years of NCD abroad as it was waaay cheaper than actually getting insurance on a ****box, and I do have a certificate with 5 years NCD abroad and I doubt those companies you mentioned, accept it.

Ah okay. Guess I’ll move to normal tyres soon as my NSF run flat is a repaired puncture. Will get tyreweld and Lexus RSA for some peace of mind.

If you can stretch your budget to £4200, my mate is selling her facelift SE-L in white pearl with black interior. 83,000ish miles auto. FSH, no issues with the car.