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Dear Esteemed Peers,

I have returned once more to the fold. I left when I sold M420HPC (Gary Lineker's old motor) and I sulked, moped and rued the day I sold it.

I have another one, it hasn't quite the charm of the first but then it didn't cost £500 and I haven't V-maxed it on a french dual carriageway yet.

It is all the things the old one was and more (some is good, some bad).

It is brisker. It is better nailed together. The brakes aren't wobbly and by heck are they strong. It is rustier. It has brighter lights. It has touch screen satnav. However, in essence it is still the same fun car the old one was.

The rust I am having sorted before it becomes a true pig. The inner rear arches are (I now know) prone to tin-mice and this one has had it bad. Paying someone to chase all the rust away, fabricate new panels, weld through primer everything he can reach behind the rust, weld the new panels in/on, seam seal, paint and then underseal. That will be the biggie done.

I hit a pheasant at close to 3 figures on a private road the pther day and that obliterated a Xenon headlight. £30 later, I had a spare one from ebay. I ran the restorer pads and compounds over it and it is as new.

Will self-service it from here on. Won't be using it till the rust is treated but I am please to be back.

Best,

 

F

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Welcome back  - I must say I don’t recognise ur name so you must have been away 5 years or more 

sounds like you’ve bought a mark 4 - would love to see some pictures 

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When I've a little more time I'll upload some tin-mouse pics and some pics once it is repaired.

Thanks,

 

F

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Be interested to know what it costs for the rear arch re-fab.

I had the same problem, but went the cut out and IsoPon the whole sheebang, though I had enough of the top and sides of arches to get away with. Wax-oiled to the hilt, and will make sure every year gets a good old check over to make sure no more wormholes appearing.

Having owned a Mk3, and been in Mk1 the Mk4 is a different motor, and found the gearing makes it a quiter drive at 'legal' speeds.

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I think the rear arch repairs will run to a few hundred quid (£300-400).

When all is said and done and it has cost me £1500 I will come back and hang my head in shame...

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welcome back :biggrin:

Malc

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Hi Foeux, I too have some rust & I m thinking of getting the complete underside done with Dinitrol, thats supposed (as far as I know) a preventor not a convertor, but, there are some treatment places scattered around & one of them which someone 'suggested' does a comlete large vehicle (car) 550, other levels of treatment are lower priced eg 220 lowest, they do all the curent rust removal, can mention them on here or not? 

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on old and ancient cars like ours i do wonder how on earth further treatment for rust protection or conversion can be properly effective when the car has still got it's factory underside finish in place 

I'm guessing any warranty from the provider of the new treatment will have long expired before an owner finds any treated areas going " bad " :rolleyes:

What would I know though ..... just age and wisdom a little maybe

Malc

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so do yu mean theres no point in getting rust preventor treatment, including removing current rust, all carried out by proffesional outfits who only do this sort of thing, done Malc? 

 

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I'm only raising the thought process .............  what sort of warranty do they give .............transferable to new owner and  15 years or more maybe ?

Malc

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Non mentioned other than the fact their warranty is that they do the work they describe they do, which does not surprise me.

They use only Dinitrol products. Do Dinitirol give a warranty their products work for 15 years? I don't know but as manufacturers of the products any warranty would be down to them, why do you think Dintitrol products are not so good?

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absolutely no idea about any of these products, nor the professional outfit / guys mode of application, sorry I can't help you there

Malc

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If one were to speculate on treatment post manufacture, the operation would only be a complete steam clean of the chassis and suspension then a complete spray of Dinitrol to the surface area.

This is what I did on my Mark 4 six years ago and there is no rust  but there was no rust when I bought the 14 year old so the answer to the question ,who knows, it is a case of what is being covered up .

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Thanks, that sounds like one I have been reading, they have 5 treatment options at 5 different prices, here is their descriptions of the 5,

AVAILABLE TREATMENTS:

 

STAGE 1:

General clean and dry of chassis before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section.

- Aimed at new vehicles with no rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section -

 

STAGE 2:

General clean and dry of chassis, surface rust wire brushed and treated with ML rust inhibitor coating  before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section.

- Aimed at newer vehicles with light surface rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section -

 

STAGE 3:

General clean and dry of chassis, surface rust wire brushed and treated with ML rust inhibitor coating  before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section. We also inject hi performance clear coat wax into the door inners and hinges.

 

- Aimed at vehicles with surface rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section and door inners -

 

STAGE 4:

Full undercarriage clean including chassi section, drop arms, trailing arms, axels etc ( the whole underneath of your vehicle ) Once dry we will then wire brush and remove existing rust if needed before applying our ML clear coat rust inhibitor which acts as a primer base. We then apply 4941 black coating to the whole undercarriage so your full vehicle gets treated. 

 

- Aimed at all vehicles both new and old which are looking at protecting the full undercarriage externally.c-

 

EXTREME:

'THE DADDY OF TREATMENTS' a full clean down of the whole undercarriage of the vehicle. Thoroughly cleaned and all rust eleminated by applying ML rust inhibitior to the full undercarriage. Once dry we seal the full undercarriage including chassis, floor sections, suspension arms, brake disc covers, steering bars, front/rear trailing arms, wheel carrier supports, tank/tank guard, boot floor, front/rear bumper internal supports, arch externals with black 4941 top coat. Clear coat cavity wax is then injected into the internal sections of the chassi to treat the inside out - this clear coat is also applied to the door inners and body seems before a clean off and seal to body work.

 

- Aimed at all vehicles both new and old which are looking for a one off solution to protect there vehicle both internally and externally including the door inners and body work seams -

 

 

All treatments take a minimum of 2 days to complete which allows for drying times between cleaning and coats and usually the vehicle is ready to collect later on in the evening of the 2nd day before we close. We have full cleaning and drying facilities to ensure we give your vehicle the best prevention and cure treatment possible.

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I guess then that there's no point doing any other than the EXTREME treatment and then one should ask the simple Q, is it effective and how long does it last being effective.

And the Q, is the outfit doing the work competent and trustworthy ............. and the next Q ............  why won't they guarantee their work for many many years ..........   if it is all effective ............  or maybe they do :biggrin:

Malc

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Yes I am thinking extreme or stage 4 for my 20 year old car, probably extreme as there is only 90 pound. difference.

As regards the/any outfits competence doing the work & if they are trustworthy, if they  agreed to do the work on any vehicle described in their advertising they are legally responsible that the work described in any advertising of their services is carried out to match their description.

Of the companies I have read all of them only describe the work carried out in their workshop, non I have read guarantee the work once the car is passed back to the driver, for obvious reasons related to the fact that it is driver at any given time who chooses to drive & under what road, race circuit, country or farm type track conditions they drive on, all work on used cars outside any guarantee period is covered in law in favor of whoever carries out any kind of work unless a written contract  or agreement between both parties exists in the case oft the later a written agreement is unlikley to exist in the context of any used car service, personally I have never been asked to sign one anytime I have taken my cars to garages offering their services, all these vehicle (or other, eg roofing, painting & decorating etc etc) anti corrosion services fall under the same rules, ie caveat emptor.

 

 

 

 

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then of course there's the issue of any subsequent accident repair work affecting the treated parts too ..............

good luck with whatever you decide to do ☺️

Malc

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I am not treating this (frankly cheap beater of a) car to a complete underbody overhaul. I am simply having new metal plopped in where the tin mice have been and am then covering it over with whatever schmoo the bloke doing the work reckons is good. It's localised and quite easily done so I am doing it.

As for treating the whole underside, there is this sort of thing that costs the earth...
Madness

Take her on steady,


F.

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11 hours ago, Foeux said:

Take her on steady,

no way ....  foot down,  0 -  60 in 6.7 secs and max 155 mph on the autoroute  ................  please do this, show what she's capable of at ancient years

the motto  ...................  you ( the Ls400 ) gets old when it stops ........  not   stops when it gets old

Malc

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16 hours ago, Foeux said:

Crickey, that is madness, you really have to be in love with the car to do that.

Reminds me a bit of a sales manager I used to work with who bought an E-type in the 80s, and would take it to shows, but it never got top marks, because unlike other enthusiasts he would not jack it up after every run and clean the whole lot down so that it looked factory fresh. (as Dizzee Rascal would sing - BONKERS)

I say do enough to keep an LS on the road, and make it a little harder for the tin mice to get going, but they will always find a spot somewhere to have their lunch, but hopefully not a 3 course meal.

You should see the sills on my wifes XJ, 13 years old, looks like a right old Roman Banquet been had by the mice, and with recent re-weld, we know that in 3 years time (due to the odd design of the drains) the mice will have been sated once more.

 

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Right, it is back and the water can't get in.

 

However, a new issue has arrived. The Battery I think is goosed which has LED to all manner of problems. Dodgy alarm behaviour, headlight washers doing their thing on their own, error for headlight adjustment on dash, cut out once, non-start etc.

 

Chucked a thumping great bosch silver in and it seems to have cured it.

 

Anyone else experienced similar problems when a Battery is past best?

 

If it isnt Battery then this car may be a real pig!


F

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Duff batteries have certainly been responsible for all manner of problems.

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2 minutes ago, The-Acre said:

Duff batteries have certainly been responsible for all manner of problems.

Here's hoping I have fixed it.

 

There was also a peculiar process for restarting the car. Leave it with ignition on for 6 mins, turn off and then turn on again. Something to do with immobiliser.

 

Cheers,


F.

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1 hour ago, Foeux said:

Here's hoping I have fixed it.

 

There was also a peculiar process for restarting the car. Leave it with ignition on for 6 mins, turn off and then turn on again. Something to do with immobiliser.

 

Cheers,


F.

Keep us posted, it's always helpful info.

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