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Dear Esteemed Peers,

I have returned once more to the fold. I left when I sold M420HPC (Gary Lineker's old motor) and I sulked, moped and rued the day I sold it.

I have another one, it hasn't quite the charm of the first but then it didn't cost £500 and I haven't V-maxed it on a french dual carriageway yet.

It is all the things the old one was and more (some is good, some bad).

It is brisker. It is better nailed together. The brakes aren't wobbly and by heck are they strong. It is rustier. It has brighter lights. It has touch screen satnav. However, in essence it is still the same fun car the old one was.

The rust I am having sorted before it becomes a true pig. The inner rear arches are (I now know) prone to tin-mice and this one has had it bad. Paying someone to chase all the rust away, fabricate new panels, weld through primer everything he can reach behind the rust, weld the new panels in/on, seam seal, paint and then underseal. That will be the biggie done.

I hit a pheasant at close to 3 figures on a private road the pther day and that obliterated a Xenon headlight. £30 later, I had a spare one from ebay. I ran the restorer pads and compounds over it and it is as new.

Will self-service it from here on. Won't be using it till the rust is treated but I am please to be back.

Best,

 

F

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Welcome back  - I must say I don’t recognise ur name so you must have been away 5 years or more 

sounds like you’ve bought a mark 4 - would love to see some pictures 

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When I've a little more time I'll upload some tin-mouse pics and some pics once it is repaired.

Thanks,

 

F

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Be interested to know what it costs for the rear arch re-fab.

I had the same problem, but went the cut out and IsoPon the whole sheebang, though I had enough of the top and sides of arches to get away with. Wax-oiled to the hilt, and will make sure every year gets a good old check over to make sure no more wormholes appearing.

Having owned a Mk3, and been in Mk1 the Mk4 is a different motor, and found the gearing makes it a quiter drive at 'legal' speeds.

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I think the rear arch repairs will run to a few hundred quid (£300-400).

When all is said and done and it has cost me £1500 I will come back and hang my head in shame...

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welcome back :biggrin:

Malc

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Hi Foeux, I too have some rust & I m thinking of getting the complete underside done with Dinitrol, thats supposed (as far as I know) a preventor not a convertor, but, there are some treatment places scattered around & one of them which someone 'suggested' does a comlete large vehicle (car) 550, other levels of treatment are lower priced eg 220 lowest, they do all the curent rust removal, can mention them on here or not? 

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on old and ancient cars like ours i do wonder how on earth further treatment for rust protection or conversion can be properly effective when the car has still got it's factory underside finish in place 

I'm guessing any warranty from the provider of the new treatment will have long expired before an owner finds any treated areas going " bad " :rolleyes:

What would I know though ..... just age and wisdom a little maybe

Malc

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so do yu mean theres no point in getting rust preventor treatment, including removing current rust, all carried out by proffesional outfits who only do this sort of thing, done Malc? 

 

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I'm only raising the thought process .............  what sort of warranty do they give .............transferable to new owner and  15 years or more maybe ?

Malc

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Non mentioned other than the fact their warranty is that they do the work they describe they do, which does not surprise me.

They use only Dinitrol products. Do Dinitirol give a warranty their products work for 15 years? I don't know but as manufacturers of the products any warranty would be down to them, why do you think Dintitrol products are not so good?

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absolutely no idea about any of these products, nor the professional outfit / guys mode of application, sorry I can't help you there

Malc

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If one were to speculate on treatment post manufacture, the operation would only be a complete steam clean of the chassis and suspension then a complete spray of Dinitrol to the surface area.

This is what I did on my Mark 4 six years ago and there is no rust  but there was no rust when I bought the 14 year old so the answer to the question ,who knows, it is a case of what is being covered up .

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Thanks, that sounds like one I have been reading, they have 5 treatment options at 5 different prices, here is their descriptions of the 5,

AVAILABLE TREATMENTS:

 

STAGE 1:

General clean and dry of chassis before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section.

- Aimed at new vehicles with no rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section -

 

STAGE 2:

General clean and dry of chassis, surface rust wire brushed and treated with ML rust inhibitor coating  before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section.

- Aimed at newer vehicles with light surface rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section -

 

STAGE 3:

General clean and dry of chassis, surface rust wire brushed and treated with ML rust inhibitor coating  before a top coat of 4941 underbody black protection wax is applied to the external chassis section. We also inject hi performance clear coat wax into the door inners and hinges.

 

- Aimed at vehicles with surface rust and who are looking at protecting only the external chassi box section and door inners -

 

STAGE 4:

Full undercarriage clean including chassi section, drop arms, trailing arms, axels etc ( the whole underneath of your vehicle ) Once dry we will then wire brush and remove existing rust if needed before applying our ML clear coat rust inhibitor which acts as a primer base. We then apply 4941 black coating to the whole undercarriage so your full vehicle gets treated. 

 

- Aimed at all vehicles both new and old which are looking at protecting the full undercarriage externally.c-

 

EXTREME:

'THE DADDY OF TREATMENTS' a full clean down of the whole undercarriage of the vehicle. Thoroughly cleaned and all rust eleminated by applying ML rust inhibitior to the full undercarriage. Once dry we seal the full undercarriage including chassis, floor sections, suspension arms, brake disc covers, steering bars, front/rear trailing arms, wheel carrier supports, tank/tank guard, boot floor, front/rear bumper internal supports, arch externals with black 4941 top coat. Clear coat cavity wax is then injected into the internal sections of the chassi to treat the inside out - this clear coat is also applied to the door inners and body seems before a clean off and seal to body work.

 

- Aimed at all vehicles both new and old which are looking for a one off solution to protect there vehicle both internally and externally including the door inners and body work seams -

 

 

All treatments take a minimum of 2 days to complete which allows for drying times between cleaning and coats and usually the vehicle is ready to collect later on in the evening of the 2nd day before we close. We have full cleaning and drying facilities to ensure we give your vehicle the best prevention and cure treatment possible.

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I guess then that there's no point doing any other than the EXTREME treatment and then one should ask the simple Q, is it effective and how long does it last being effective.

And the Q, is the outfit doing the work competent and trustworthy ............. and the next Q ............  why won't they guarantee their work for many many years ..........   if it is all effective ............  or maybe they do :biggrin:

Malc

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Yes I am thinking extreme or stage 4 for my 20 year old car, probably extreme as there is only 90 pound. difference.

As regards the/any outfits competence doing the work & if they are trustworthy, if they  agreed to do the work on any vehicle described in their advertising they are legally responsible that the work described in any advertising of their services is carried out to match their description.

Of the companies I have read all of them only describe the work carried out in their workshop, non I have read guarantee the work once the car is passed back to the driver, for obvious reasons related to the fact that it is driver at any given time who chooses to drive & under what road, race circuit, country or farm type track conditions they drive on, all work on used cars outside any guarantee period is covered in law in favor of whoever carries out any kind of work unless a written contract  or agreement between both parties exists in the case oft the later a written agreement is unlikley to exist in the context of any used car service, personally I have never been asked to sign one anytime I have taken my cars to garages offering their services, all these vehicle (or other, eg roofing, painting & decorating etc etc) anti corrosion services fall under the same rules, ie caveat emptor.

 

 

 

 

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then of course there's the issue of any subsequent accident repair work affecting the treated parts too ..............

good luck with whatever you decide to do ☺️

Malc

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