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I've been looking around and people are averaging getting averages in town of over 28mpg.

Ever since I've owned mine i've been 17-23mpg and sometimes 25+ on the motoroway let alone town.

How do you compare? anyone have an idea why mine is low?

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First things I'd look at are tire pressures and have a short drive and don't use the brakes. Stop and feel CAREFULLY to see if a disk is stinking hot from a binding brake caliper.

 

My wife manages about 28 on her 8 mile city commute. That drops down to 24 in winter.

I can achieve 44-46 on my 28 mile motorway commute. Thats down to maybe 30 in the middle of winter at 3am. (Work nights).

 

Are you hoofing it or keeping revs at about 2-2.5k and letting the auto do the work?

 

Have you reset fuel average on computer ?

 

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Also are these figures from the dash computer or your full-to-full tank calculations?

paul m.

I can achieve these figures if I drive like miss daisy but that is not often!

 

 

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I live in London and have never got more than 20mpg in town despite driving like a granny 

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I don't exactly baby the car around but i have had slide pin problems with brakes before so i’ll have a look. 

Also, its a manual. 

never thought to reset avg so ill do that today. 

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Hi some good pointers regarding brake checks ,this is a common problem with these cars ,If your MPG is from the computer ,I have found this to be practically 7% optimistic so it could be worse than you think .With my car which I have had for 4 years ,I average 28-29 around town ( I do not drive in cities normally and don't do many short runs) and 38-40 on long runs and holidays I let the auto do the changing and find cruise control makes a big difference on motorway trips.I would not think manual would make a great deal of difference unless you are the revs go over 2000 when accelerating from a stop The lazy v6 has plenty of torque

Dave

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Manual has worse economy than the manual. My auto would normally be about 21 around town ( London) but have seen as low as 15 stuck in traffic getting through the Blackwall tunnel. I'd say yours is about normal for town driving.

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I get around 28-32 around town from my manual, but it does not include much heavy traffic driving, on a run on the motorway I get about 38-40 sat at 80mph which I am more than happy with (previous car 15 around town and 30 on a run if I was lucky)

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Typically, I get low 30's on average, doing mostly short journeys. I can stretch it out to about 35MPG if I reduce my cruising speed by 10MPH - ie: doing 60 on the Motorway instead of 70.

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Typically, I get low 30's on average, doing mostly short journeys. I can stretch it out to about 35MPG if I reduce my cruising speed by 10MPH - ie: doing 60 on the Motorway instead of 70.
I've tried different speeds myself. To be honest I found very little difference between 60-80.
56 does make a noticeable difference but for someone who sits at that speed for most of his night shift (12 car transporter driver hgv) it's hard to sit at that speed in the Lexus and not feel like your having your teeth pulled.


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36mph on a 200 mile journey 

26 around town

31 on journeys around 20 miles 

winter 2-3mph lower on all journeys 

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Last time I spoke about mpg, the topic got locked... For whatever reason... So there it is: Ion a recent cross Europe trip 75mph for about 300miles I've got 46 tank mpg from Netherlands to Calais, which ended at 45.0 in London. As you cant really speed in those countries where police is taking radar and laser readings of speed, I decided to play a game of "see just how much of an economy I can get out my 07 is250", and that was the result. It'shard work though, and not really worth it... I haven't yet filled up in uk, but London traffic has taken it's toll and that particular tank is currently reading 41.8 mpg. Just got the light on.

A while back (about two months I think now) I remaped the vehicle, i know... i know... and from 26.5mpg my overall mpg is 34.6 as I'm writing this. Haven't reset the trip B odometer reading since I've mapped it, just to take a considerable amount of distance into account.

In Germany my fuel economy is bad even on the motorway, averaging at 28.5... good fun though. While everywhere else is above factory figures.

I'll take a picture of the "all time" mpg later on today. You can get some sort of economy out of this engine, but you will most likely lose all the fun.

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Last night when I parked the car the fuel light came on, it didn't this morning... But nevertheless there it is... Overall mileage and miles since "improvements to fuel managing applied". I must say - I didn't expect that to happen, at all.

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On 6/23/2019 at 5:24 AM, seqo said:

I've been looking around and people are averaging getting averages in town of over 28mpg.

Ever since I've owned mine i've been 17-23mpg and sometimes 25+ on the motoroway let alone town.

How do you compare? anyone have an idea why mine is low?

Seems a bit low for me... I used to get ~28MPG in London and ~44MPG on motorway if not going over 90. However, for last couple of months I am having issues with MPG as well as it has dropped to ~37MPG on motorway and barely 22MPG in town. Still cannot get to the bottom of it, but suspected are "lazy" oxygen sensors or MAF. In short - if you getting anything below 25MPG look for issues.

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43 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Seems a bit low for me... I used to get ~28MPG in London and ~44MPG on motorway if not going over 90. However, for last couple of months I am having issues with MPG as well as it has dropped to ~37MPG on motorway and barely 22MPG in town. Still cannot get to the bottom of it, but suspected are "lazy" oxygen sensors or MAF. In short - if you getting anything below 25MPG look for issues.

Is your also manual?

-

Every cold start now sounds, well, rattly. Car had full service history but never had this tsib EG017-07 done even though there are customer complaints for cold start rattle from 3 years after the car was purchased on the my lexus site...  Wonder if the cam problem could cause this?

 

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No, mine is Auto. Lexus haven't done lifters TSIB in UK. Mine had lifter rattle well before the MPG problem started, easiest solution - replace oil after no more than 6000 miles and flush every second time. Works for me, oil stays clean for long and I do not have rattle since I have started doing it (last 60k miles). It kind of starts at 10-12k miles(at the end of second oil change after refill), but it is nowhere as loud or frequent, could barely hear it for a fraction of second after turning on the engine.... at least compared with when I first time had it on cold morning and car was like 128k miles and oil was not changed since I bough it @120k - it was literally like mini-gun under acceleration until oil warmed-up

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On 7/5/2019 at 8:18 PM, Linas.P said:

Seems a bit low for me... I used to get ~28MPG in London and ~44MPG on motorway if not going over 90. However, for last couple of months I am having issues with MPG as well as it has dropped to ~37MPG on motorway and barely 22MPG in town. Still cannot get to the bottom of it, but suspected are "lazy" oxygen sensors or MAF. In short - if you getting anything below 25MPG look for issues.

It may seem strange, but find an excuse, take the car on the motorway, preferably in a section without speed cameras and floor it... Amongst other things, tha cats need sneezing off every once in a while... really fussy those cars we're driving turn out to be... Need tickling all the time.

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On 6/23/2019 at 5:24 AM, seqo said:

I've been looking around and people are averaging getting averages in town of over 28mpg.

Ever since I've owned mine i've been 17-23mpg and sometimes 25+ on the motoroway let alone town.

How do you compare? anyone have an idea why mine is low?

I've done some reading for you, and I doubt your issue is a bad caliper.  If the engine isn't throwing a specific code you're one of the "luckiest" chaps to get excessive carbon buildup on intake valves. Save your time, and money, and do it right the first time... On Ebay there's a "chap" who is specializing in cleaning direct injected engines. And I've messaged him, with a price request for is250, he came back with £400 and done within a day for walnut blasting. Which is the only right way of cleaning the valves in the long run. After, or before that, you may consider installing an oil catch can, fairly simple procedure, to minimize such occurrences. My two cents in this is, on your next few refills use some injector cleaners, I do it in combination with octane booster and cat detergent, it's a bit expensive considering the price of petrol, and then  adding another 25~30 quid into the tank, but it is means to an end... And although this does nothing to prevent or remedy the buildup, it keeps the rest of the system clean, and helps with mpg. Don't have to do it all the time... Refill to full once and pour a "two shot bottle" of RedEx (don't worry will do no harm), skip next one, do it again on the third full tank, and that should do for a while. But definitely have your valves inspected/cleaned.

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I floor my car all day everyday, generally drive it very hard and launch from every light possible, so doubt it is an issue with anything stuck anywhere. Always drove like that and will always do, however now the MPG is lower compared to exact same driving habits before.

When it come to valve cleaning, I have done hydrogen cleaning few years back - theory is that they pump hydrogen via intake so it should clean intake valves as well. Haven't really felt any difference before or after it, equally never had issues with excessive pollution so it didn't really fix anything. Redex won't help intake valves, only injectors or hopefully exhaust valves, maybe cylinders little bit, but problem is always intake valve stems and back side where carbon build-up is biggest problem. 

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I average around 23 mpg around town and 34 on the motorway in our IS250. This was relatively consistent over time we had the car. 

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On 7/8/2019 at 9:13 AM, Kaminet said:

I've done some reading for you, and I doubt your issue is a bad caliper.  If the engine isn't throwing a specific code you're one of the "luckiest" chaps to get excessive carbon buildup on intake valves. Save your time, and money, and do it right the first time... On Ebay there's a "chap" who is specializing in cleaning direct injected engines. And I've messaged him, with a price request for is250, he came back with £400 and done within a day for walnut blasting. Which is the only right way of cleaning the valves in the long run. After, or before that, you may consider installing an oil catch can, fairly simple procedure, to minimize such occurrences. My two cents in this is, on your next few refills use some injector cleaners, I do it in combination with octane booster and cat detergent, it's a bit expensive considering the price of petrol, and then  adding another 25~30 quid into the tank, but it is means to an end... And although this does nothing to prevent or remedy the buildup, it keeps the rest of the system clean, and helps with mpg. Don't have to do it all the time... Refill to full once and pour a "two shot bottle" of RedEx (don't worry will do no harm), skip next one, do it again on the third full tank, and that should do for a while. But definitely have your valves inspected/cleaned.

Would seafoam intake spray work for valve cleaning?  Do you know where "Ebay chap" is located?

Definitely getting a catch can, I was looking for one about 10k miles ago and ended up not pulling through... I wonder how much of a difference it would have made.

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On 7/10/2019 at 5:33 PM, seqo said:

Would seafoam intake spray work for valve cleaning?  Do you know where "Ebay chap" is located?

Definitely getting a catch can, I was looking for one about 10k miles ago and ended up not pulling through... I wonder how much of a difference it would have made.

The chap on Ebay is located in Hinckley. Fair distance from London, but in all fairness I would do the trip (spits behind shoulder), if I(hope I'm not calling the devil) have to. The procedure is about 4 hours, his own words, and all including travel can be done in a single day. There's a link to his profile https://ebay.co.uk/usr/pmp_cars 

Googled around to see if he has any sort of credibility, and his reputation seems pretty good.

The catch can itself is no cure, but it does make a difference in the long run. Needs draining every once in while, nothing major as maintenance required. 

I, for one, am not only sceptical but pretty convinced as well, that the seafoam can do a lot of harm, and will definitely not clean as much as you would like it to. 

On the other hand, £400 is not something you can easily swallow... The decision is yours. 

Best of luck!

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On 7/9/2019 at 7:55 PM, Linas.P said:

Redex won't help intake valves, only injectors or hopefully exhaust valves, maybe cylinders little bit, but problem is always intake valve stems and back side where carbon build-up is biggest problem. 

I didn't say a thing to state it will clean valves...  It's not a port injected engine. Keeping the rest of the system clean were my actual words. And I said the rest of it, because it's a 2 shot bottle, which is twice the required/recommended amount, combined with catalytic converter detergent and octane booster. Which in return means that if you drive long enough to get everything up to temperature whatever buildup you have past intake valves that can be cleaned chemically or thru burning it will be cleaned. It's not cheap either, for what it is, but it does seem to work. 

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I didn't say either that you said it or didn't say the rest. My point was that on DI the main issue is intake valves, the rest actually cleans well enough just with normal use. Obviously, it won't hurt to clean rest of the system just in case, but it won't help with the key issue.

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3 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

I didn't say either that you said it or didn't say the rest. My point was that on DI the main issue is intake valves, the rest actually cleans well enough just with normal use. Obviously, it won't hurt to clean rest of the system just in case, but it won't help with the key issue.

I'm pretty sure, that in his case, if the MPG is so badly hurt, he also experiences loss of power and what have you... Due to compromised chamber sealing I bet that his injectors aren't operating at optimum... And quite possibly his exhaust valves aren't the cleanest either, some raise in operating temps can only benefit, to an extent.

 As one of my co-workers likes to say: "s*** only rolls downhill".

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