Neville

IS 220d Electrics/Ignition Dead

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Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me. I have a 2006 IS 220d and several weeks ago I got to the car and unlocked the doors got in and it was dead. Security light flashes and the green back light on the start button is illuminated, no amber LED though. The clocks, stereo, everything is dead. I have checked the earth from the Battery which was a week old, replaced the fob Battery. Linkable fuse and all others are ok. Four auto electricians have looked at the car, 3 couldn't get communication as the ignition hasn't power and the fourth pulled codes  B2799 and B2281. Due to this I bought a second hand kit including engine ECU, body control, steering column, smart key and smart key module, key receivers, under dash fuse boxes, power control module, start button and clocks. Nothing changed. So I put all the original parts back on to the car. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

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are either of the 12v or switched_12v  feeds alive  when you probe the fuseboards?

what reading do you get from the Battery, or perm 12v feeds with ignition off and on ?

all i can think is to trace back from dashboard fuseboard back to the Battery, so see where you loose the 12v to chassis... really sounds like a broken earth (unlikely), blown fuse (also unlikely) or dead Battery (more likely) .. but if you have had a few people look it over, I am sure they should have done the same

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32 minutes ago, Neville said:

Four auto electricians have looked at the car, 3 couldn't get communication as the ignition hasn't power and the fourth pulled codes  B2799 and B2281

If that really is the case then you should name and shame just who these so-called "auto electricians" are, because a true auto electrician wouldn't just rely on codes and give up when they "couldn't get communication".

They would start to do some proper diagnostic fault-finding and find out why this is happening, not just say, "It's not communicating so I can't do anything".

I see you're in Lancashire. If you're anywhere near Preston I can highly recommend Ribblesdale Auto Electrics on Marsh Lane:

https://ribblesdaleauto.co.uk/services/electrical-repairs/

If you're too far away or whatever, all I can suggest is to make sure the Battery is fully charged against the chart below and that ALL connections including the Battery posts, clamps, earth straps (including Battery to chassis and engine to chassis) and all alternator connections are clean and tight.

It sounds like it could be a main fuse so check for voltage in and out of the fuse block or check for continuity across the fuse - some fuses can look alright but have indeed blown.


bvolts.png.80555aab842fd1e0d55060a935d2b1b6.png


EDIT:

Did you, or these so-called auto electricians, check what the error codes mean? It appears that B2799 has something to do with the keys and/or the immobiliser, which may explain a lot. The Youtube video below may or may not help, I don't know, but it may at least give you a starting point from which to Google further:

 

 

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Check for power i.e. 12 Volts on the two fuses on the top right of the picture.

I’d love to get my meter out on this fault.

 

852F5F7E-9A94-4C82-A97B-4D7D5D7E2B80.jpeg

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Update... Thanks for the pointers. I've double checked all fuses and relays, checked and rechecked every earth I can find including those buried away bottom rear of the engine nearside. Tried the reprogramming but as the electrics are off has made no difference. I'm thinking it may be the key and I only have one which isn't the master. But surely if it was the key the dash would still work and say key not detected. Am I right in thinking this? Oh, and the only time the security light stops flashing is when I disconnect the Battery. Stays on when I enter the vehicle. 

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The immobiliser/security light should in all honesty go out once you unlock/enter the car

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B2799 is an immobiliser error but not one related to the key - the ECU is detecting a wiring issue between itself and the transponder unit.

B2281 is signalling issue between the power source control module and shift lock control ECU.

 

I'd say you have an electrical supply issue - earthing, fuses (including the big bolt on ones on the understand of the engine bay fuse box, EFI relay, power source control module etc.

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UPDATE.... found the problem to be the ID code box. With some fine fettling it's working now. YAY!!!

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1 hour ago, Neville said:

UPDATE.... found the problem to be the ID code box. With some fine fettling it's working now. YAY!!!

Glad it's sorted but what's an ID code box and what was actually wrong with it?

And in order to help other members save time and money, it would be helpful for you to give us pointers as to who the three auto electricians were who just gave up because there was no power.

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It's the module that reads and checks the code from the key. It is located behind the top vent of the heater behind the dash. In an IS220, So it is not easy to get to. I've moved it so it is now behind the clocks therefore easier to get to in the future should I need to. As for what was wrong with it I think some of the conductive track was coming away from the PCB or a dry joint, couldn'tbesurewithouta magnifier. Anyway I ran some solder over some of the joints and for good measure heated it with a hairdryer (set to a heat you would not use on your hair) to stick the track back down.. (all the episodes of the A-Team I watched as a child were not wasted) and the cars is working as it should. 

 

As for auto electricians. Speak to people and get recommendations. I did in the end and found a brilliant one who put me on to the problem Mick Able Auto Electrician. Do not just find one on the internet. 

Hope this helps someone so they don't have to do all messing around I did.

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